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Long Islander

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  • From
    Long Island, New York
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    Porsche 911 coupe (2001) + other European cars

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Community Answers

  1. Long Islander
    One of my horns stopped working. I don't know if it's the high one or the low one but I'll replace them both while I'm at it. I've learned that to replace the horns the bumper cover has to be removed and the horns are on the passenger side. I've seen a Youtube video that shows the horns being replaced on a 986 Boxster, but it seems to gloss over many of the details. Does anybody have detailed instructions on front bumper cover removal? How har a job is this and how long should it take? Thanks.
  2. Long Islander
    I hear a click when I press the sensor in from the back of the "ring" toward the front of the car, but it still wiggles a bit. It's not solid. Thanks for the tip.
  3. Long Islander
    I tried that but there's nothing to snap into. When you push it in the ring, the sensor just fits in loosely.
  4. Long Islander started following How do I reattach outside temp sensor?
  5. Long Islander
    While washing my car, I noticed the outside temperature sensor has become dislodged. It looks like it should just snap in to the plastic ring from behind so that the wire from the sensor goes towards the back of the car, but there doesn't seem to be any way of snapping it in the "ring." There are two notches on the ring at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock but no corresponding notches on the sensor. The ring is made of hard plastic so it's not like you can just push it into the ring so it stays on tightly. Any ideas?
  6. Long Islander
    On the 07-4PU part, the top of "C" curves downward, whereas on the 10-4PU part, the top of the C doesn't curve downward. That's why 10-4PU won't stick to the original location (the top of the "C" will stick up. On 2002 and later models, the Carrera emblem is stuck on lower, so the C doesn't stick up.
  7. Long Islander
    I don't have the noise you're talking about but I understand what you mean. If you were to put some lubricant on the seat back lock (at the bottom of the seat back, which keeps the seat back from folding forward) that might put an end to it.
  8. Long Islander
    This brings back memories. I did the stalk OBC hack back in 2002 and it came out great and works like a factory OBC.
  9. Long Islander
    My Autozone Duralast Platinum AGM H7 battery (now 4-1/2 years old) must be much stronger than your. Last weekend, after not having driven the car for 3 weeks, the voltmeter still showed 12.7 volts. I didn't event bother to plug in the battery maintainer.
  10. Long Islander
  11. Long Islander
    I'm going to replace the interior lamps with LEDs, which is pretty simple, but the visor vanity mirrors each have two lights that I can't figure out how to replace. Are these replaceable? If so, I would appreciate getting instructions. Thanks.
  12. Long Islander
    Problem solved! I bought the Audi part (4A0-905-849B) to replace my original ignition switch (just the electrical part). This is the correct part for my car because the original ignition switch was never replaced (I know that because I'm the original owner) and it fixed the problem. While I wasn't having any electrical problems -- just a mechanical issue with getting the key in and out) the electrical switch was binding and making it difficult for the key to line up properly. When I removed the old switch, it did not turn very smoothly, whereas the new one did. This took me a few hours, but mainly because I couldn't get a flat head screwdriver into the spots I needed to release the electrical switch. A word or wisdom -- you need a small flat head screwdriver that is less than 2.5 inches long. Anything longer and the air duct prevents you from lining up the screw driver to turn the screw. Once I got the short screw driver, it was very easy to remove the ignition switch and replace it. There are also instructions for this on Pedro's Garage: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Replace_Ignition_Switch.html One more thing to note about the small screws is that they are exactly 180 degrees apart and face the same direction. The bottom one you can see, but the top one is only visible if you have a mirror (which is useful to get your bearings).
  13. Long Islander
    Changing the ignition lock assembly seems to be at least a 4 hour job, and the part is around $250. The dealer quoted me $1000 cost to do this, and it seems complicated enough that I don't want to try doing it myself. I spoke with an independent Porsche specialty shop and he said he's replaced dozens of ignition electrical switches (the $10-$30 part) and has never had to replace the ignition lock assembly afterward because this took care of the problem. He thought my issue would be fixed with just the electrical switch. So, based on that, I ordered the Audi OEM version of the electrical switch (Porsche doesn't sell this anymore, but the Audi and Porsche parts are the same), and I'll replace it myself. This is supposed to take less than an hour, so it's a low-risk gamble to save +/- $1000. I'll keep you posted.
  14. Long Islander
    I was planning on buying the "ignition switch" appearing on the link below from Pelican parts: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=POR&Context_make=&please_wait=N&LastVisited_input=&Previous_Section=&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=ignition+lock&I1.x=0&I1.y=0 Are you saying I need to buy the "steering lock assembly with ignition switch (without lock cylinder)" and then swap out my lock cylinder instead? Pelican has the following DIY instructions for this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock/86-ELEC-Replacing_Your_Ignition_Switch_Steering_Lock.htm
  15. Long Islander
    http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/%5D996
  16. Long Islander
    2001, C2 coupe, tiptronic
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