torontoworker

Add me to the list: 2016 3.6 with 41000Km's requires new transfer case under CPO. Location of work: Porsche Center Oakville Symptoms: Herkey/jerky acceleration in low gears. 2 week wait for back ordered (Germany) parts and NOW a 4 week wait for install.

On second thought - this solenoid may be the shift interlock solenoid to prevent shifting from park without foot on the brake and key in the ignition powered up.

186000 km’s On a 99C2

Hi all, I've got a 99 996C2 with a Tiptronic gearshift issue. When going over bumps the gearshift handle will move over to Auto position from Manual on its own. Too keep it in manual you have to hold it there. Its as if there is no more mechanical or frictional force being applied to keep the handle in the manual position any longer. You can move it back and froth with your pinky. I've looked through the service manual and cannot find a tension spring in the parts list. Looking at the whole assembly in pictures - the only thing I can see is a solenoid (circled in red) under the housing. Is it possible that this system uses the solenoid to keep the gear leaver in the manual position as soon as the micro switch is pressed in by the lever? I can't see any other item such as a fiction or tension spring that would keep this lever to the left in manual mode. I can buy a whole new *used* housing for around $100 or a new OEM for $1600! The failure was a night/day situation. One minute everything fine - then not. Clearly not something worn out as you would suspect a gradual once in awhile issue - not a sudden failure which is why I thought of a spring falling out or broken. Thanks

Yes bought used. Where is the engine # located? Can I side under the car and spot it or does the car have to be on a hoist? I'm located in Canada and the car came from Vegas. How would I check if it had a salvage record? The CarFax came back clean. This might sound silly but I can't ever remember these VINS not matching - I've owned the car for six years and used Durametric's on it many times. Is it possible this was done during service? I had an issue last year with many O2 codes and cly codes and after a lot of work with new coils, MAF, spark plugs, etc. between two indy's I got the car to pass clean air tests. Would someone have swapped out the DME to problem solve and not put the old one back? That doesn't make sense considering the hours listed on this DME unless you could update the data in some way. I'd be interested to see what CarFax has to say on the DME VIN - like what happened to THAT car?

I don't know if I never noticed this before but I was checking codes from a CEL I got and took a look at the data section (Durametrics) on my car and noticed that the VIN given in the DME does not match with the chassis VIN. My VIN in the window is WPOAA299XXS623350 yet the ECU VIN is WPOAA2993XS620242. Does this mean that at some point the DME was changed? I've got just over 186kms (115500 miles) on the car and the engine hours state 2961. Engine ser# from the DME says WO4873

Update: Success! A lession in Murphy's Law. It was a bad MAF. But... the indy who had swapped out my MAF for another and tried this newish part from another car he had in that day - put in a MAF from an egas car - not a MAF from a 'cable gas' car. No wonder there was no improvement. It took another shop to figure this out. The part numbers are different and the operation on the Motronic is important. Clean air test went perfect after. No new cat's needed. Just like doctors - second opinions are always good! Thats for your suggestions here - it helped me to decide to try another shop.

I think in the morning I'm going to bring my laptop out to the car - plug into the OB2, place it on the passenger seat and record the fuel trim numbers while I drive (I have Amateur Durametric for the 5.2.2). Any other settings I should select? I think there is a limited number of modes I can record and store to an excel sheet at a time.

He was looking at the O2's using Durametric (pro ver with a new update) and the real time numbers looked fine with car running. Fuel trim?? Affecting both banks? I've got no codes for injector issues, no codes such as 420/430 (Cat's). I currently have 1124/1126 in memory (Rich Threshold) So far... No CEL - yet. Although it's been under 50km's since a code clear.

I have a 1999 - 996C2 'Tip' with 160K (kms) Two weeks ago the car's idle went south - really ranging all over and the CEL came on. Codes were P1317 (Misfire cly 5), P130, (Bank 1 before Cat O2 range), P150 (Band 2 before cat, O2 range), P1124, (Bank 1 O2 Sensing) and P126 (Band 2 O2 sensing) So my mechanic pulled the number 5 plug and noticed it was oiled up and that the coils were origanal to the car. The thoughts were that the coil in #5 went bad causing the misfire which generated the other codes. So... Six new plugs - six new coils installed. Codes cleared. Within 20kms driving away from the shop the CEL comes back on. I read the codes when I get home and phone my mechanic. With the exception of the misfire code - the other four codes all relating to the pre cat o2's are back. Next step was changing the pre 02 sensors. The post sensors are six months old. He cleared the codes and within 50kms the same codes were back on. The idle is rough and hunting around between 700-800rpm once warmed up and stopped at a light. I notice that foot on the brake/foot off the brake makes a difference in the idle. Foot on the brake it drops as low as 500rpm. Take your foot off the brake and it rises to 700rpm in drive (Tip). The car warms up with a lot of black carbon even spitting a bit of it on the garage floor with a bit of water and the tailpipes are coated with carbon like never before. Looks like it is running rich? There is NO smoke at anytime either before it comes up to temp or after, or if you hit the throttle hard. There does not seem to be a loss of power - throttle pick up is still crisp - although the engine note above 3000rpm seems 'throatier'. MAF was two years old but we swapped it with one from a car that was running fine. It made no difference and all four codes came back. If you run this car in this condition - the CEL will come on inside of 100kms. The #5 plug was pulled again just to check on it. I had a great fear that I had either a ring issue or a cly wall score issue. The plug didn't seem to bad but it only has 200km's on it. The only thing my mechanic is now suggesting is that I have a bad cat. Now there is a bit of a rattle out of one (passenger bank) but my question is can a bad cat cause these codes, idle issue and black carbon issue? I know a misfire dumping fuel in can cause a bad cat but I never had any flashing CEL's. Someone suggested that the cat could be plugged up causing an issue but why do both bank pre cat sensors come on and why both banks with equal carbon? I can't pass a clean air test in this condition as even without a CEL - my area will not pass a car with these codes in memory even without a CEL on. About ready to tear my hair out. So what if I replace both cat's and it doesn't fix the issue - that's my big worry. I'm temped to install a new MAF just to eliminate that area - as his used one *could* have been an issue. The MAF even at $130 - it's cheaper then a Fabspeed 200 CEL sport cat (which is the option I'm thinking about as factory cats are $2K EACH!) I just don't know why a bad cat would affect the motronic into a fuel rich state. Is it possible?

Bill: I have a 99 C2 'tip' that I am considering having the IMS replaced bearing replaced in a few weeks as a preventative measure. I have 125000km's on the car's and change the oil on or before 5K with 5/40 after recently changing from 0/40. Can you comment on the following: 1. 0/40 ver's 5/40 oil. (I was told by my mechanic that the 5/40 is better for our temp range in Canada for these engines) over the 0/40. 2. The 'theory' on the street is that tiptronic cars have fewer IMS issues because the over rev issue is eliminated - so therefore less potential damage? Some say the low percentages of 'tips' with IMS failures is a reflection of the lower number of 'tip's produced yet others say the numbers reported even using per-capita produced - are still lower then manual gearbox cars. So whats your feeling on 'how' the transmission can interact with this failure mode? 3. Is ambient heat an issue with IMS failures - say Scottsdale in mid summer against our rather lower peak summer heat of mid 80's F.? 4. I store my car during the winter here - mid Nov through to mid March without turning it over once. I change the oil before and after. Is this a poor procedure for an engine with an IMS design? Should the car be fired over and run for 20 minutes every week instead? 5. My car is a mid year 1999 - is it a single row bearing type? Are these the worst? Thanks for your great input here.

I did after market side skirts, front wing and GT 3 rear wing. Had them all painted at the same time by my painter. Front and side skirts were Razzi and the rear wing was from Asia. All fit pretty good. Prep is everything with painting so spend your money on a good painter. The rear wing harness is not bad option to buy as without the updated harness the third brake light won't work on top of the light for spoiler up/down is annoying - the light on the dash also does double duty as engine cover UNLATCHED. Always paint to sample - not paint codes. Take the old plastic cover off the wing and give it to your painter to match to.

New belt needed. Tension is supplied by this unit - either tensioner has a defect or belt is the issue. This is not an issue to ignore. Loren could confirm but I think the belt is rated for 50K miles or five years?

Here is a pic of the tail lights I installed, plus a before and after.

Hi Jimmy, they are your normal ebay LED tail lights that are the whole housing with internal LED wiring that you plug into the wiring loom. I think you use two of the old bulbs in the housing and all others hook up the LED's through a wired in base that you push into the empty plug outlets. I'm sure you've seen them around here or on ebay, (sorry no pic's of mine as I'm at work). Mine are clear signals until you hit the turn signal and the LED's light up a very bright yellow. The brake section is red - also very bright. I blew the marker light 7.5amp fuses joining the small corner marker (fog) lights because the supplier did not have instruction NOT to hook these up. I found this out later from other posts on Rennlist and 6gear. So the tail lights work well aside from the hyper flash issue which is why I bought two power resistors to fix that issue. Later I have another person asking me why didn't I just buy some *electronic* relay for this circuit. Good question: I was told by others that the relay would not fix this issue alone and when I did check part numbers there is no such thing as an upgraded relay unless I pop in 997 relays that could or could not work. I did find a supplier who makes LED replacement bulbs that you can replace the two incandesent lamps still left over and they have a built in resistor in the base of the lamp to fix the low .05amp issue that in theory would be plug in play in any normal old style tail light housings. I'm going to try those next in a few weeks and let people know how they work. If they work you could replace all your lamps with them without changing the whole housing. I hated the yellow/red housing anyway which is why I went for the whole replacement deal. (and got a good deal on them to boot) But if there is a quick plug in play of a relay that fixes the hyper flash issue when you go from the old units to new LED units then I'm all over that even if the relay install is a 20 minute job for me - the plug and play relay may work best for most people - if it in fact works. Cheers.