Bob Brooks

My 2017 Macan S has an erratic sensor for outside temperature. Hoping this is a reasonable DIY replacement. Bob in Houston

I have a 2017 Macan S with about 5,400 miles. When I accelerate, even mildly, then let off the gas there is a rattly sound from under the hood. I assume this is coming from the turbos, but since I want this special order car to be perfect, I have not taken it to the dealer.

Where to position your floor jack so the jacking points are available for jack stands? On 997-1 coupe.Bob

I am in the process of sending back some "not OEM" Turbo style wheels. They looked great on ebay, and the seller had a very high rating, but the rear wheels had a thicker (by about 40%) outer rim face than the fronts. The factory Turbo wheels are not like that. So, trying to save some money has backfired and I take a bit of a loss with the shipping costs, thereby getting a reduced refund. I'm interested in recommendations about wheel sellers that handle slightly used factory wheels. Finish Line Wheels looks great on the web but it is very hard to reach them, and the presence of a wheel on the web seems to have little to do with what's in stock.

OK. Now I will type like I'm literate. "Search" did not yield anything on front bumper removal. Can you help me find that thread? My car is a 2007 997, and I'm a big fan of louder horns in competitive big city traffic. Does the Griot's Italian air horn that you recommended have any lag time while the air builds up? This used to be a problem with air horns that did not involve an air tank. Thanks, Bob

Search did you yield anything. Can you help me...2007 997 front bumper? Thanks.

If there are no fault codes present as Loren suggests, I would suggest removing the batteries from both your key heads for a week or so and manually locking/unlocking the doors, to eliminate them as a possible cause of the faults. As PAULSPEED mentioned, the key fobs are very sensitive to pressure, especially the trunk button. It could well be that one of the fobs is somehow damaged internally and periodically emitting the signal needed to lock or unlock the car. If a week passes with no further evidence of the ghost in the machine, try putting a battery back in one key for a few days. If that's trouble-free then do the other key. Whichever key causes the issue is likely your problem. If the system still misbehaves with the remotes disabled, perhaps something near your car is causing radio interference. Does the problem only occur at home, or does it happen when you're out and about? Mark Thus far the problem has only been noticed while the car is in the garage with the door down. It is not a function of the remote being activated while in the pocket of my jeans, because this happens when the keys are hanging on a hook or lying on my dresser. The latest pattern is that I leave the car unlocked overnight in the closed garage, with the trunk shut. Next morning trunk has been popped and the car has been locked. This has occured twice in the past two days. Both keys were at least 40' away with lots of studs and drywall between the car and the key. Prior to this latest reoccurrence the car could be left locked,then I would go to start it in the morning and would find that it had been unlocked. Again, keys far away. This car is still under warranty, so I am returning to the dealer for Round #2 next week. Don't know if this extends to the two expensive keys or not. I was fishing for some advice from the users since I like to know multiple viewpoints.

My 2007 997 coupe has developed a mysterious syndrome. While parked in the garage with the door close it will periodically (really pretty regularly) lock the doors, or pop open the trunk, or unlock the doors....all without any use of the remote. First trip to the dealer involved a reprogramming of that system and the two keys. No improvement. Has anyone else experienced this? What was the fix?

Clutch replacement will be done by independent shop. Came highly recommended by a guy who had two extensive Porsche mechanical restorations done there; air cooled models I believe. So far they have done a complete brake job and a few other less expensive deferred maintenance items. When they did the PPI for me they pointed out the seal leak, saying it would be a waste of money to do that separate from a clutch replacement...which would be needed "sometime". Have not priced clutch replacement at my preferred dealership.

My 2002 996 coupe has 67,000 miles on it; 59,000 prior to my ownership. I've had it about a year, but it may become my daily driver which would result in something closer to 12,000k per year. Between the slight oil leak from the front seal and the mileage I am anticipating a clutch and seal job this year. I am curious about the experience of forum members in the use of a Porsche clutch versus that of another less expensive manufacturer. I value the mechanical feel of my car, with all of its subtleties and nuances, and would not want to lose any of that. Is it worth the price to stick with Porsche for this big part?

I have recently had an Alpine head unit and amplifier installed to replace the Becket/Haes factory setup. The Becker was somehow interfaced with the alarm system, and had a red light in its face. In the all-factory mode when one would arm the alarm the headlights/tail lights would blink twice, following by a horn honk if some secured component (door, console lid, etc) was ajar. With my replacement radio the horn honks each time I arm the alarm system. The very experienced installer could not find a decicated alarm system wire to the Becker, and does not know how to get this errant horn honking to cease. If would like to reinstitute the original functions of the alarm system so I will know if something is amiss when I arm it. This is pretty subtle stuff, I know, but I am one of those perfectionists when it comes to function. Is their a proven fix for this problem? The car's; not mine:-)

On Sunday I contacted a friend of mine...SERIOUS audiophile with in-depth knowledge of electronics, amateur radio operator since 1958, etc. He saw no problem, so I swapped them. Sounds MUCH better than the stock speakers. Will be interesting to see what the MB Quart techs say. Thanks.

I have two sets of MB Quart 4" component speakers. The shallower model (QWC-100) goes in the dash, but they came with surprisingly large crossovers. I am putting MB Quart PVI-210's in the rear panels. I would like to use the large QWC crossovers for the rear speakers, and use the smaller crossovers that came with the PVI's for the dash speakers. Seems to me they should be interchangeable. It's all about sending different sound frequencies to a woofer and a tweeter. This is not an audiophile installation, FWIW. Man, is it hard to get enough advance information about these things to know that it will all fit! At least I conquered the mountin of these speakers to the factory grilles; no minor accomplishment.