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blundgren77

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About blundgren77

  • Birthday 12/30/1977

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  • From
    Port Washington, WI
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster

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  1. blundgren77
    Yes, hindsight being 20/20 I should have, but I didn't. Although, after owning a Boxster, hearing the stories from this forum, and talking to other PCA members in my area, it appears that most Porsche's lately are more at home on the back of a flatbed, than on the track. :-/ Really makes the decision to get a 2013 Boxster tough, when I've had nothing but problems with this one.
  2. blundgren77
    Last night coming home late down a back country road (typical time for Murphy to show up) my 2001 Boxster (43,000 miles) let out a little bit of an intermittent chirp that lasted for 2 or 3 seconds, a few times. Sounded like a belt slipping, but nothing major, or drastic. The 3rd or 4th chirp was followed by a thud, and an immediate lighting of the charge light. I knew the belt broke. No power steering - no nothing. Seeing as how I was about 12 miles from home, I elected to continue, seeing as I was in the middle of nowhere. I keep an eye on the engine temp, and it climbed, but slowly. About 4 miles from home, it finally got up to redline, and I pulled over, and shut it down for about 5 minutes. After restarting, I managed to limp it home at 25 to 30 mph, but it was certainly at red-line most of that 4 mile trip. I got home, shut it all down, and although the engine was running, it didn't sound "right". (obviously overheated) I had some steam coming from the car when I pulled into the drive. I haven't torn into anything yet (doing that after work tonight), but the question is - with driving it at redline for 4 miles or so, how badly could I have messed up the engine? I realize these engines don't like overheating, but how much will they take? I plan to dump engine oil, full coolant flush regardless of what problems I find. Is there anything else I should do to make sure by baby is healthy, besides start investing in the Porsche Special Tools to rebuild it? Thanks! BIll
  3. blundgren77
    Here's what I'm after. This is a picture of the drivers side. It's just under the cowl, and the battery cover overlaps this, and the little "T" nuts that hold the cover, lock into this and bite down, to hold it down. It just snaps in. Passenger side is the one missing.
  4. blundgren77
    I'll take a picture tonight, since they're worth 1000 words. The cams (posts) that you turn on the cover are fine. What I need is a little white, rectangular clip that snaps into the body work under the cowl covers, that the black posts lock into and bite on to hold the cover down. it's about a 3/4 inch wide white clip that snaps into a larger rectangular hole in the underlying metal under the cover.
  5. blundgren77
    Ahhhhh, it's spring! Time for Boxstering! This was bugging me last year all year long, but never got around to fixing it. The battery cover on my 2001 Boxster has a part missing. It's not the cover itself, but its the little plastic hold-down "nut" that is where the little 1/2 turn cams would lock into. The passenger side clearly has a little white plastic part that the cam locks into, and when you give it a twist, holds the cover down. My drivers side, just has a hole where there should be something, but apparently it's broken off and fallen away.I have the little screw part in the cover - just nothing for it to lock into when you turn it. I checked the PET to try to find it. Group 8, Illustration 813-20 shows the cover, and the cowl cover 996.572.561.01. The drawing shows the battery cover plasitic screws and them going into the cowl cover, but no where do I see the little plastic bit. It's definately not part of the cowl cover, as I can remove the passenger size and the white piece is still in the metal-work of the car. Any ideas what that little plastic clip part number is, and can it even be replaced?
  6. blundgren77
    Oil anywhere but inside the engine, in any large amount is probably cause for some investigation. :) Doesn't look all that major. Could check the Air Oil Sep maybe? Maybe even pull the throttle body and see if there is oil and crud inside of it. If there is a ton, could be AOS. But you'd really have to look to find the source. From the picture, it appears its all after the t-body, and not before, and heaviest just after it. How loose were the clamps? Even if it was the AOS though, hard to imagine it leaking out of, intead of into the intake, and the car not "smoking" a as it burns oil. Is the car using any oil at all?
  7. blundgren77
    Check out this thread. Some good discussion on smoking http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30223 Bottom line - these engines smoke. My 2001 doesn't do it often, but I can set my watch by it in the early spring and fall. When it starts to get cool outside - I get smoke. Call it a puff...call it whatever. I get a white "puff" or steam and/or oil. With that in mind, in the above thread, there is good discussion on steam, versus smoke. Based on everything you've changed already, it sounds normal. If the throttle body is clean, the AOS is doing it's job. Since the cylinders lay flat, oil can leak past and pool overnight. People see the smoke and think that a car of this "prestige" shouldn't do it. I had a buddy of mine with an older 911 that said "if the car doesn't smoke when I start it in the morning, I know it's time to check the oil." :) As for the .3 you overfilled - there is lots of debate on here about that as well. It may have added to your smoking...but it's such a small overfill, I don't think you have anything of concern.
  8. blundgren77
    The PS reservoir is in the engine compartment on the drivers side, up close to the firewall. Once you get the convert. top into service position, you can remove the engine covers and you can't miss it. It's a twist cap, and has a dip stick in it. You can top it off from there. The factory fill is Pentosin CHF11S usually, but that fluid was superceded with CHF-202, whcih can be used to top off an 11S system w/o issue. I have not been able to find it anywhere like Autozone, etc. I got mine at the local dealer, and didn't get overly charged (shockingly). I tried to get it at Napa, but my local one told me they didn't store-stock it, and since it wasn't all that common, i'd have to buy an entire case for them to get it for me. lol :) Keep in mind it comes in 1 quart metal cans, and under most driving, to "top it off" only takes a little bit. That can will last you a LONG time unless you track the car or have a leak. Bill
  9. blundgren77
    Well, first you need to get the convert. top into "service mode." I can't remember if that's in the 2006 owners manual or not. (Porsche eventually removed the steps from later model years.) If its not, you can just search here on the message board. The process is the same. Basically, you "partly" open the top (so that it's about 6 inches from being closed, and the clam-shell cover is at an angle). You then unsnap the felt rear liner of the top from the rear retainer clips, release two small cables, and pull the top up manually until it "clicks" into place, just aft of the seats. Then you can remove the engine covers and access the air box, which on a left hand drive car is on the left side, just inside the air scoop. The search feature on this board is really good. Just search for it here. The procedure, and even the air filter replacement has been covered many times.
  10. blundgren77
    When I changed my black Boxster logo to a titanium one, I used the dental floss method to remove it. It works great. Any residual gunk that was there, I used Goo-Gone (Not the new "ultra powerful" stuff - just the regular stuff). Worked great, and didn't hurt the paint. After that, I used Scratch X over the entire area to remove any goo-gone schmootz. :) Then, where the logo was going on I used just a soft cloth and rubbing alcohol to clean the area well so there would be no waxy residue. I put down some ledger marks on the car to help me align the logo. To do that, I just used a sharp, white Crayola Crayon to make some tiny little dots on the car to keep things straight. The crayon will write on the car, and when you're all one, it wipes off with no effort, and leaves no marks.
  11. blundgren77
    When I put my Boxster away for the winter I did an oil change and sent a sample off to Blackstone. Got the results today. Everything looks AWESOME. 0W40 had lots of life left, all the values were in spec, and they detected no fuel dilution or antifreeze at all. They noticed a higher than universal average of copper though. The comments in the report said nothing to be "alarmed" about, but they would look at it again on the next sample next year. The universal average according to them is 5ppm. I had 11ppm. The comment blackstone made was copper in the oil would be from copper and/or bronze parts in the engine wearing. (duh!) Every disassembly picture I've ever seen of Boxster engine pretty much has large chunks of steel and Aluminum. So any idea where the copper could be coming from? I'll be anxious to see what it looks like next year, and I'm not overly alarmed about it. More curious than anything.
  12. blundgren77
    While getting ready to put my 2001 986 to bed for the winter this past weekend, I wanted to siphon off the washer fluid, as since I had no idea how the porsche fluid was prepared, I couldn't guarantee it wasn't mostly water and might have frozen. The washer bottle has a large opening, but it tapers and you can't just use a baster or something to pull fluid out. I could have tried to create a suction somehow, but I got to thinking, and reached into my old box of RC airplane parts for this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...LXMA93&P=ML It's a hand operated fuel pump for filling up RC airplanes. It pumps like mad, and uses a small diameter rubber hose. I simply fed the tube down into the washer bottle, put the discharge hose into an empty bottle and started cranking. Emptied the entire bottle in about 2 minutes. The company has electric versions of these pumps also. Best of all, since the pumps are designed to pump Nitro fuel, they are pretty much bullet proof and nothing will eat them. I could see this working to siphon off brake fluid (getting past that pesky little ball in brake fill) or anything else you want to remove from the car. And less than 20.00. :)
  13. blundgren77
    The manual control for the spoiler is down on the drivers side, next to the wheel well. There is a cut-out in the fuse panel cover, and you can press the top of the switch to raise, and press and hold it on the bottom to lower it. As for changing the extension and retraction speeds, or temporarily disabling it, I'm pretty sure that you'd need a PST2 or PIWIS for that. There isn't anything on the car to do it that I'm aware of. You can manually lower it though with the switch. One thing you could do is when you have the bike rack on, simply pull the fuse for the spoiler. You may get (others may be able to confirm) a light on the dash with the fuse pulled once you are past 75. The car may still call for the spoiler to come up, and with the fuse pulled it won't, so you may get the spoiler light coming on. But once the fuse is back in, it should be fine and clear on its' own. Other may have other ideas though.
  14. blundgren77
    Awesome. Thanks Loren!
  15. blundgren77
    Getting ready to store the car for the season this weekend. This is my first winter owning the car, and I'm about 99.9% sure the dealer I bought it from filled the washer with Porsche concentrate. Since I drive it on good weather days only, I've never had a reason to use the washer fluid much, so never topped it off, and thus - never bought any yet to read the label. :) Does the stuff contain any anti-freeze substances? Or for storage this winter (unheated, but garaged) should I drain/sypon it, or top off with some good 'ol regular blue washer fluid/antifreezing solution? I don't want to come back in the spring to a cracked fluid bottle from it freezing. Bill
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