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RLHornbeck
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Lost Radio Code - post your request here
RLHornbeck replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
CRDR-220 Type 4462 SN X5033240 Thanks -
Thanks Loren
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2013 Cayenne Diesel with air suspension if relevant.
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Does anyone know the torque required for for the rear subframe bolts? Also are these bolts one time use or re-usable? Thanks
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I am in need of removing the back bumper also, stronbl did you ever make the diy? Or does anyone have instructions? Thanks
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Lost Radio Code - post your request here
RLHornbeck replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
Loren, thanks it worked. -
Lost Radio Code - post your request here
RLHornbeck replied to pennyporsche's topic in Lost Radio Codes
Looking for the radio code for my 2000 boxster s CDR-220 s/n Y5042338 Thanks -
I would love help with this also. I have replaced the lower arms, upper arms, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, and tie rods. I still have a bad clunk on bumpy roads. The only items left are steering rack, top of the air shocks(bushings?), or axles. Any help would be appreciated. Ryan
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1. Yes mark the alignment bolts (2) that hold the arm to the frame. 2. You will use these to hold the ball joint from turning while you tighten the joint. 3. Not easy but doable, you must remove the entire shock Assembly to get the bolts off 4. No, you can do the entire job on the ground. 5. There is not tension if the wheels are both the same level.
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Forgot to mention this is a 2005 turbo.
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The CEL came on today so i pulled out the Durametric and found 2 codes P2677: O2 Sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1 - No Signal/communication, test conditions are not-completes, fault is active and causing a DTC light P0150: O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1 - Implausible signal, test conditions are not-complete, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light Where should i start looking for a problem or is it as simple as an O2 sensor? if so how do i test the sensor to confirm that is the problem. Thanks
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Not really, I found a low mileage used pump that came with the pulley so I did not have to remove mine. It is very straight forward as to what you have to take off, just takes time. Bleeding the air just takes a few full locks of the wheel after you get everything back together.
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The pump will come out without taking out the compressor. I went in from the drivers side wheel well and from the engine bay to get it out. You must remove a great deal of items. It took me about 8 hard hours is a real bear but is doable.
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Looking for this also, anyone have one?
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hahnmgh63 thanks for the brands. What about other items for preventive maintenance while you are in there? Should the sway bar bushings, sway bar links or upper control arms be done?