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iii911ooo
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If you have a good relationship with your local P-car dealer, they can look up the serial number for the original engine. You can then check it against the actual S/N stamped on the block. The serial number is stamped on the flat area next to the oil sump. It will start with M96. Randy
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Home Curb-Rash Repair
iii911ooo replied to Loren's topic in DIY Articles - Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs
I have a set of Sport Designs on my 2001 C2. These are 2-piece wheels with the outer section natural polished aluminum that is clear-coated. When I purchased the car, the rears had been repaired as the outer portion of the wheel was now painted aluminum color that matched the center section. Now I have put a scuff on one of the wheels and would like to make the repair. I have two questions. First, does anyone have experience taking the 2-piece wheel apart for refinishing? Second, does anyone know of a paint that will closely match the natural aluminum finish? Thanks in advance, Randy -
My radio display is not as bright as the other dash displays, such as the climate control display. I took it to the dealer and the service tech said that the display was correct. He noted that the display changes as the ambient light changes. While I don't dispute that the display is changing brightness, it is just too dim. I know this because I compared it to the loaner Boxster, which had a much brighter display that accurately matched the climate control display. :help: Is there a way to adjust the base level of the display brightness?
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Does anyone know how to interpret the serial number on an engine? The engine in my 2001 C2 Coupe was just replaced with a remanufactured one, part number 996-100-996-NX. The serial number is M96/04 AT66165113.
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Mine is the same as Loren's. Factory installed 2001 aerokit and no gap.
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toolpants, Since my RMS just failied and Porsche is going to supply me with a "new" remanufactured engine, I was doing some research on the topic and found your post on the RMS. I must say that this is an excellent description of the seal and the repair process. :clapping: In your post, you talk about installing the new RMS with a tool that sets the seal farther into the bore than the original, stock configuration. The reason behind this "deeper" installation is for improved sealing. The RMS is a lip-type radial seal. To accomplish this seal, it must exerts some radial pressure on the crankshaft sealing journal. Over time, the seal wears a small groove into the crankshaft journal. Additionally, the area inboard of the seal (engine side) is "clean" and free from corrosion. So, when you install the new seal deeper into the bore, you are using a "virgin" area of the sealing surface that is also free of dirt, rust, or other surface irregularities.