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jagman1
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About jagman1
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It sounds normal to me. Injector noise if I had to guess. The injectors have the orange plastic bits on the intake manifold.
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It has entry and drive if it has the little black buttons on the doors. Assuming it still works, you should be able to lock with the key in your pocket by pushing the black button on a door handle. Unlock by pulling a handle to open without pushing the black button.
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I had the terminal 15 relay go bad and cause many of those same errors. The relay is located under the drivers seat. It can be accessed by moving the seat all the way forward and up. Or by unbolting the seat as if you were accessing the battery. The relay is a little black box. I tapped on it with the ignition on and all my problems went away. $30 for a new one and fixed. I figured this out after exploring the front carpets for water intrusion and broken splices.
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So the window seal is not meant to be water tight. This means that a small amount of water will leak into the door and then should drip out the drains at the bottom of the door. I recommend doing two things. Clean out the drains, use a small piece of plastic (like a zip tie) to poke into the drain holes and clear the obstruction. Don't use anything made of metal because you don't want to scratch through the paint in this area. The drains are located in the black strip at the very bottom of the door. You'll see that you can spread the seal apart and clean out the junk blocking the seal. There should also be a few holes that are blocked recessed within the black rubber trim piece. Those are the ones you need to clean. Should be a simple fix as it sounds as if you're not draining water correctly.
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No and No. It's an o-ring seal.
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I must have the world's worst luck with aftermarket parts. I've been burned many times, nearly every time now that I think of it. I've even avoided the Chinese stuff like the plague and selected from O.E.M suppliers like TRW, Laso. When those aren't available I use German companies: Hamburg Technique, etc. So, for me I am using Porsche parts these days. Especially on very difficult jobs that I only ever want to do once. Your upper control arms are one of those jobs. The lowers are easy. Uppers, not so much... With the online retailers we have to choose from the prices are a bit more reasonable. Sunset Porsche, Suncoast Porsche, ECS Tuning, Teile.com (If you're in Europe),
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I just did the replacement last weekend. I drained the tank by removing the hose at the bottom of the tank. The only fluid that cam out was in the tank and a little in the hose. Refilling required about 2.5 liters of fluid. There are a few DIYs out there. I followed this one. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-Cayenne/54-WATER-Coolant_Expansion_Tank_Replacement/54-WATER-Coolant_Expansion_Tank_Replacement.htm I pulled the headlight. Removed the cover to the passenger side air filter. Removed the torque arm and it's bracket. Loosened the mounting bolts for the brake boost vacuum pump. Removed the washer fluid filler neck. All the steps recommended in the DIY's. It's a lot of work for a simple task. Do be careful around the brake booster. The plastic vacuum lines can be brittle and breaking one will cause you lots of headaches. I'd say the whole job took me 2-3 hours.
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I don't think that you can every prep enough for every thing that can strand you. Alternators can fail and you've got about 20 minutes to get someplace. Starters at a rest stop. etc... Knowledge is probably the best thing to have. I'm told that if you pull the fuse of the failed fuel pump the other fuel pump will save the day.
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Thanks for all the replies and advice. I've contacted Durametric and they have been very helpful. Now it's up to me to send them a log that reports what's going on. I'll get to that as soon as I can. In the meantime I tried my generic obdII scanner that I've had for >10 years. It didn't work on the 997. It displayed "Fail". It's made by Actron, but is so old that it probably doesn't support the SDI3 Siemens ECU. I'll keep this thread updated with whatever I discover.
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So... Yes I'm sure on the code. But I just spent a few hours on Porsche's tech info site and that code is not listed for the DFI 997.2 engines. This leads me to believe that there is a glitch in durametric that is reporting the wrong code.
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Need some help with a P0403 "Misfire detection failure." code. No check engine light, no obvious misfires at idle or at speed, car runs fine. Code won't clear with engine running. Clears with engine off, but returns after startup. Anyone have any tips or access to the Porsche troubleshooting guide for that code? Thanks! Car is an 2011 Carrera S Cab. 23K miles. 1 year old plugs.
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Sounds like whomever sold you the car timed it well.
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Porsche's new facility
jagman1 replied to gllever's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Agreed, but has anyone ever given thought to the consequences of the class action lawsuit? Here's a different perspective (my perspective): Porsche identifies that they had a bad design on the coolant pipes, a design that caused premature failure and in addition, required engine removal to repair. So, they redesign the components, and build them from aluminum to eliminate premature failure, they also segment them to make the repair possible with the engine installed. In doing so, the redesign is, in a sense, an acknowledgement of a bad design by PCNA. Then they get sued, and lose for $45 million. Of which the lawyers get the majority of the money (not to mention PCNA's legal costs). So, in the end I ask myself what will happen the next time a bad design makes its way into a car? Will headquarters decide not to do a redesign because of financial fallout? There's the right thing to do, and then there's the corporate right thing to do. -
The adjustment is easy to do yourself. First buy the shim kit, or buy some stainless steel washers to use as shims. The inner diameter of the washer needs to be large enough for the door bolt to fit through. Read the TSB posted on this site re:door alignment. Essentially you want to do two things. Begin by shimming the bottom hinge of the door, so that the latch end of the door raises up until level with the window sill. That's step one. Step two is to adjust the bottom hinge outward. You want to push the bottom/front of door away from the parking foot brake lever (9 o'clock position for the drivers side door). (Or 3 o'clock for the passenger side door) Doing this will close the gap at the top corner of the window furthest from the hinge. Essentially pulling the door tighter at the top. It can be a bit tricky to figure out how much to move the door when the hinge bolt is loose, some trial and error may be needed. But it will solve your problem. The only other trick is that the direction you want to adjust the door(in step two) changes with the door open (the door must be open to loosen and tighten the bolts). I fought this noise for a while and had relied on shimming alone to fix it. It wasn't until I discovered that the door hinge can be moved along the x-axis that my wind noise was fixed. I can try and post some pictures later on for clarity.
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With that type of damage it is difficult to know for sure whether it damaged the belts. I suppose they could remove the tyre, and look at the inside and see if there are signs of damage. The safe answer is replace. You can replace just one tire if they're within 3mm of each other. Or have the new tire shaved to match the other three.