Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
- OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Ahsai replied to ninerguru's topic in DIY Articles - Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and RepairsThat does sound suspicious. The gasoline should have evaporated with the engine heat and 300-mile round trip of driving. Since you have checked all the connections and they appear to be dry, I can't think of other things to do other than keeping an eye (and nose) on it. Which exact part of the fuel system did you disconnect during the coolant tank job?
All spark plugs have specific heat range and other specs and are engine specific. I'm not familiar your plugs from Oreilly but you should get 99917020791 or Bosch/NGK equivalent. Should be like $5 each.
Do the plugs have the correct spec?
4.5g/s sounds ok. I think the spec is 15~18 kg/hr. May want to check rhe fuel pressure and regulator then.
What year is your car? 1126 and 1130 means the engine is running rich. Too much fuel pressure or not enough air. Could be the MAF. Have you made sure all coil connectors are firmly seated? What is the MAF reading at idle with engine warmed up?
"the last one is an Oxygen sensing code." <- what was the code in addition to P0300?
Ahsai replied to Koenbro's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)If your a/c is working well, most likely it's hydraulic fluid. Are the cap and the lock ring tight? Best is to clean up the area well with brake cleaner and monitor the leak. If it's a/c oil, your refridgerant would have leaked out with that much oil. The engine oil temp sensor is plugged onto the right side intake manifold runners on a 996. 997 may be similar
Yes but it's another test to confirm you really have a problem with the ignition switch/fuse Yes, the switch in my diagram represents the mechanical ignition switch. Yes, the DME/immobilizer control only pins 85 and 86. The ignition switch induces the RFID signal from your keyfob, sends it to the immobilzer, which tells the DME to activate the start lock relay. Once the engine starts spinning, the crank position sensor will generate signal to the DME so the DME will activate the coils for sparks and also keep the fuel pump running.
Yeah, I agree it's odd and I can't explain it either. The start lock relay is controlled by the DME and immobilizer. If your RFID is bad, the DME will not power the start lock relay. However, note that the test you did was with the start lock relay removed so DME and immobilizer were not even in the picture. If you put a very fat wire to jump pins 30 and 87, you should be able to crank the engine. If it does crank but not fire up, it means the ignition switch is fine but somehow the DME is not firing the ignition coils (a bad RFID or a bad crank position sensor can cause that).
Ahsai replied to talkenrain's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Did you hear/feel a slight click when plugging the connectors on the coils? You may want to check and make sure the connections are tight. The 997 p/n seems to be correct for a '01 996 per autoatlanta.
You said when you turn the key to the cranking (momentary) position and you don't have 12v at pin 30. As you can see from the wiring diagram 12v from the battery goes to the 80A fuse, then the ignition switch then to pin 30. No voltage at pin 30 when you turn the key to crank can only mean the 80A fuse or ignition switch.
The 80A fuse is in the power distribution box under the dash passenger side but it sounds more like the ignition switch to me because that 80A also controls a lot of other electrical parts too such as the wipers.
The sound is nornal. Non-Durmaetirc scanners are not going to be useful in this case. Check out the circuit diagram I drew here. Remove the start lock relay and check if you have +12v at pin 30 on the socket when you turn the key to the cranking position. Then with key in the last postition before crank and clutch fully depressed, pin 86 should have +12v also. You should also get 12v between pins 85 amd 86.
You need to do some low level troubleshooting. E.g., check if you get power on the start lock relay. The buzz you hear sounds like the fuel pump priming, which shoild last for a second or two in pos 1. That's normal. Do you have a Durametric?