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Ahsai replied to nerdtalker's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2You may also want to check with key ON engine OFF, whether pin 1 of the backup switch socket (with the connector removed from the switch) gets 12v.
Ahsai replied to mileet38's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)On my '02 and '03, I need to remove the relay and jump the power contacts for the pump to run. Figure #2 here https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/22-FUEL-Replacing_the_Fuel_Pump/22-FUEL-Replacing_the_Fuel_Pump.htm No need to even put the key in. Have you checked for sparks also?
Ahsai replied to mileet38's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)The info shown above by Joe is good. Since you have an '03, there's a fuel line quick connect around the top of the coolant reservoir. Just squeeze the grey tab in (you may not see it since it's behind facing the front of the car) and disconnect. Then you can measure the flow. You can also make an adapter to measure the pressure. There are also two brass caps on the fuel rail that you can remove to do the same but I do not recommend removing those as I had a bad experience getting them resealed when reinstalled.
Yes, the first link is a well known attack. I think some even suggested wrapping the key fob with tin foil when not in use sitting at home. However, that attack only works on key fobs with the keyless entry feature, which our 996 don't have. The keyless entry feature lets you just carry the key fob in your pocket. Once you get to the proximity of the car, the car doors just unlocks automatically without you doing anything. The relay attack basically amplifies the wireless signals from the key fob to trick the car thinking the key fob is close by while it's really far away in the bedroom drawer.
There are professional tools (e.g., transponder emulator) that can hack the system but I'm pretty sure if involves customized s/w and h/w, and not just supplying power to a few pins. This paper was published 5 yrs ago https://www.cs.bham.ac.uk/~garciaf/publications/Dismantling_Megamos_Crypto.pdf It talks about how the security flaws and how one can hack the system (academic presentation, not a DIY blueprint).
I think the immobilizer will be a joke if your theory works. There's a "W" lead single wire communication between the immobilizer and the DME. I suspect the DME relies on some higher layer protocol exchange with the immobilizer, and not by getting power on some pins (which could easily be defeated like you proposed).
Ahsai replied to piethein's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Yes, the signal is PWM. I don't have it now but the spring back in park position was mentioned in some Porsche literature. The purpose is to eliminate free play rattle at start up while the oil pressure is not there yet while cranking.
Ahsai replied to piethein's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)No manual parking needed because once oil pressure is removed, it should spring back to its parked position.
Ahsai replied to thatsjeek's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Thanks for the update. I've completely forgotten about this thread. The cranking does not sound right at all and I have no idea about the popping noise. Have you verified timing on both banks. Many cases of non-start after rebuild was due to wrong timing...ppl forgot to rotate the crank 360 before timing the other bank. The engine ends up having 2 cylinders on opposite bank going through the same compression stroke and will be hard to crank (in addition to running on only 3 cylinders).
Ahsai replied to KeithBenoit's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)How old is your water pump? It should be replaced every 4 or 5 yrs (some may even suggest shorter interval). A new belt may put more pressure on everything but that should not be a concern as the system is designed for a new belt. Also the tensioner governs the belt preasure so that helps maintaining the pressure even on an old belt (to a certain degree). $1k sounds about right for a shop.
Have you checked the wiring from pin D33 all the way to the start lock relay and make sure it's not broken or shorted? You said "Directly starter will cranks and engine work." Sounds like if you hot wire the starter, the engine does fire up? If the DME is immobilizing the car, it will NOT turn on the fuel pump (in addition to NOT activating the start lock relay) so the engine should not have fired up. If true, it sounds like you have a break in wire from D33. If the engine doesn't fire up even you make the starter turn, that sounds like the DME is immobilizing the car. Have you tried another key and is the immobilizer pill securely installed inside the key fob?