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No, this one is for the intake manifold.
The 997.110.319.00 is the correct one.
1122 refers to sensor 2 inside the t-body so it may be the one acting up. If memory serves, Durametric can display the readings of both sensors and the reading of one sensor is always half of the reading of the other sensor. Perhaps with key ON engine OFF, you can move the pedal for its full range back and forth a few times and see if the sensor 2 reading make sense. Maybe you can catch a glitch that way.
BTW, if you need a new t-body, you can get a BOSCH one for US$160 or so. Just google bosch 99760511501.
Your car has e-gas so the throttle position sensors (there are two inside) are integrated into the throttle body. I would reset the DME (reset the CEL), then do a e-gas throttle calibration first - turn key to last position before crank and leave the key there for 60s, then turn the key to OFF position for 10s and you're done. Do not touch the gas pedal during calibration. I suspect though there is something wrong either with the wiring or the throttle body itself. Do you have a Durametric? If you do, you can monitor the reading of the two sensors inside the throttle body. The sensor you showed above is for cabled t-body, not for your car.
Ahsai replied to wildbilly32's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)32psi is way too low. Factory recommends 36psi front and 44psi rear when car is fully loaded. With driver alone, I run 34 front and 40 rear.
No, I meant revert everything back to stock and try to crank. Do not jumper anything. If the car does not even crank, it's likely an immobilizer issue. I've not heard of Durametric rental. There's a thread here where Durametric owners posted that they are willing to help locally.
What happens if you remove all the jumpers, reinstall the start lock relay and crank? Will the engine crank? Can you try another key? Not much to check before you can scan the car with piwis or Durametric.
Yes, DME has power for sure because it activates the start-lock relay (assume stick shift) to allow power to reach the starter. What I found odd is if the alarm system is trying to prevent the car from being stolen, why does it allow the engine to crank.
No, the fuel pump has its own relay. Both DME and ignition relays are under the rear seat parcel panel. Since you have power to the MAF and O2, you have power to the injectors and coils. The only reason you don't have sparks is because the DME is not grounding the injectors and coils. This is also consistent with no tach needle bounce while cranking. Are you sure the CPS connection is tight? If not the CPS, it'll be back to the alarm/immobilizer system.
In the meantime you can check the following with key ON engine OFF to make sure these get power to them. These verify DME relay and ignition relay. MAF pin 2-> +12v Any black wire of any O2 sensor (car harness side with the O2 sensor disconnected) -> +12v
Ahsai replied to Trevar's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)I don't think so. Basically you need to buy both kits to get what you need for cam timing. The extra tools that you don't need are for 3.4/3.6 engine assembly and 3.4 engine cam timing.
Ahsai replied to Trevar's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Forget about what models they say. All you need are the tools in my posts above for your engine.