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Ahsai last won the day on July 30

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  1. That is way too infrequent if the engine cranks at a normal speed (say 100-200rpm). Cylinder fires every 2 crank rotations => spark almost every second on EACH cylinder. I'll ask again. Do the other cylinders exhibit the same firing interval? Have you tried new coils? The crank sensor signal should also increase in magnitude as the engine speeds faster. i wonder if you have a weak CPS signal. BTW, those small capacitors are there to suppress (electrical) noise produced by the coils and injectors. Absolutely nothing to do with the strength of the sparks you get.
  2. Have you tried new coils and plugs? Remove the coil and plug on another cylinder and see if you get the same spark interruption. If you do, that means the DME is not firing the coils. Next is to use a scope to check the CPS signal and the cam sensor signal on both banks (by back probing the DME pins). The DME picks up the TDC#1 from the CPS the but it needs the cam signal to tell between TDC #1 compression and TDC#1 overlap so it knows when to fire each cylinder. However, the DME might also just fire two opposing cylinders at the same time. One will fire up (at TDC compression) and the sparks will have no effect on the other one.
  3. 2001 boxster s won't fire!

    Glad you got it sorted and it was simple. Re the flashing light, it indicates the underlying cause with different frequency of flashing. Could be as simple as the level sensor or low coolant. Just search here as it's been covered before many times.
  4. 2001 boxster s won't fire!

    Che k fuse E1 then the CPS as Loren said. Tach needle not bouncing is a strong indication the CPS or its wiring is bad. Any chance of rodent chewed off some wires?
  5. I strongly suggest you take it to a shop to check for fuel leak. Basic safety issue. If the puddle of gas was truly from your car, I would be very concerned.
  6. 2001 boxster s won't fire!

    Check fuse c1 to c4. Any CEL? Also, when cranking, does the tach needle bounce for 1/8" or so?
  7. Sure. Also a good idea to do the test on the other cylinders for comparison.
  8. Without a leak down tester, it's hard to say because even a healthy engine can have something like 5% leak and you may see even more on a cold engine or if the valve is not completely seated due to the light spring pressure despite nothing is wrong.
  9. There's a very simple way to flush the whole system.
  10. Yeah, does sound like a burnt valve or broken valve spring.
  11. Any coolant/oil intermix? Sounds like your problem is in the cylinder #6. Could you do a leak down test and check for leak from the valves and piston rings? Borescoping the cylinder (valves and cyl wall) might give us more clues too.
  12. The voltmeter in the dash should move to about 14v after cold start then it may taper off to 13.5v or so as you drive the car. It should be between 13.5v to 14.5v whenever the car is running. You can take the battery to any auto parts store for testing. For battery drain, open the hood and trip the lock with a screwdriver to trick the car to think the frunk lid is locked. Then close all the doors and arm the car and wait for at least 20min. Use a dc clamp meter on one of the battery cables to check for drain. It should be like 30mA or less. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O0HLBJ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501965197&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dc+current+clamp+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=417d7jMeCYL&ref=plSrch
  13. Absolutely. The smart fuse is just more convenient.
  14. Should be available in autozone, oreilly, etc. Btw, sent you a PM.
  15. You can use a smart fuse (it will blow and light a small LED on the fuse). You can then start disconnect things from that circuit. With some luck the LED goes out and you know that's the bad circuit.