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Ahsai last won the day on October 13 2018

Ahsai had the most liked content!

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About Ahsai

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    2003 996 Coupe

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  1. Ahsai

    Crank but no fire ***SOLVED***

    Looks like it's all ready for the track!
  2. Agree with John about using 5w-40 oil. To get peace of mind, it would be good to send the oil for used oil analysis once you have 3~4k miles on the oil. The UOA will tell you if you have any coolant in the oil (which could create the sludge you mentioned).
  3. Are you guys talking about this hole? It's higher than the CPS though so how did the CPS bolt get into there? I also include a pic of the webbing of the engine block in case it helps describing the location txhokie4life described.
  4. You will need a scanner. Could be a generic OBDII scanner (cheap wi-fi or bluetooth dongle) or Porsche specific ones such as Durametric.
  5. Feel free to come back and post along the way. I don't know how I missed that. You mentioned the CEL was ON. Did you read the error codes?
  6. Coil should not create tapping noise. It would help if you can upload a sound clip. In the meantime, I would suggest changing out the pressure sender and replace all the coils (and spark plugs too while you are there). Then check the oil filter and drop the oil pan to check the oil pick up tube.
  7. Intermittent oil pressure warning light could be the oil pressure sender. Not too difficult to replace.
  8. How's the oil level? Did the oil pressure recover while you were driving home? A failed coil should not cause oil warning light but sounds like you need a new set of coils anyway.
  9. Seems like you have gone through most suspects. How about the ignition coils and fuel filter (if you have an inline one)? What are the codes? Next step is probably a Durametric scan to get more vitals. Then check the fuel pressure at cold start and after engine shut down (see if pressure holds). Possible you have leaky fuel injectors that upset the cold start fuel-air mixture. Another possibility is a sticky/leaky evap purge valve.
  10. Have you tried cleaning your throttle body, MAF and idle stabilizer (if it has one)? If you have access to Durametric and can get RKAT (or TRA) reading and FRA reading, those may give us more clues. Also a good idea to check for intake air leak (by hooking up onto a smoke machine).
  11. I don't think the sending unit wires can be swapped because they are of different sizes. I don't recall the Bentley manual has any troubleshooting steps about this problem. Even if it does, I don't think it will be more than what you can get out from this forum. Once you inspect your oil filter and oil pick-up (both very simple to do), you will have a lot more info to decide on the next steps. I would add sending the oil for UOA to make sure it's not contaminated by oil and also verify metal wear. If indeed the internal bearing tolerance is getting so bad that it doesn't hold oil pressure, accelerated metal wear should also show up.
  12. Are you losing coolant? I think you should check your oil filter first then the oil pick up mesh (with the oil sump pan dropped).
  13. Could you remove the pistons first? Should have better access to the dust seal.
  14. Ahsai

    Crank but no fire ***SOLVED***

    Btw, I think you just invented a perfect anti-theft technique 🙂 Even if someone swaps in their own immo and DME, still won't get the engine to fire.

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