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DBJoe996 last won the day on March 6

DBJoe996 had the most liked content!

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28 Excellent

About DBJoe996

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  • Birthday 11/23/1956

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  • From
    Daytona Beach, FL
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 996 Carrera
  • Future cars
    Is there anything that compares?
  • Former cars
    The past is past....
  1. From the location I would definitely check the AOS bellows which is above.
  2. There is absolutely no correlation between changing out coil packs and having the engine D-chunk on one of the cylinders. His engine had more problems to begin with. Your issue is due to cracked coils getting wet and the engine running badly after it rains. The new coil packs are a good thing and your car will run better.
  3. Replace all coil packs with the newer version. You have cracked coil packs. Just do it. Water in the air filter is not the problem. That would affect all cylinders and the car would run very badly, if at all. Pull the air box, open it up and check that the drain hole is clear of debris in the bottom of the box.
  4. If you bought Firestone tires, it is probably a defective tire.
  5. Jump starting the car rarely kills the battery, unless you hook up the jumper connections wrong (backwards), then all kinds of bad stuff happens. If it won't charge then it is a bad battery. It really doesn't matter that it was undriven for 4 weeks. However, that length of time may result in a dead battery. Some batteries just will not recover from being fully discharged for a length of time such as 4 weeks. All depends on the battery type and current condition. I don't understand why you don't just change out the battery without going to a dealer. That's going to cost a fortune. Any NAPA, AutoZone, O'Reillys can help you install a new battery. Recommendation - get an AGM battery, H7 size.
  6. Is it a newer type AGM battery? By experience, one day they work and the next day it is dead. Probably has a broken cell inside the battery. Time for a new battery. Before disconnecting the battery cables, make sure you have your radio code if it requires one.
  7. There are two emergency release cables. One is for the front trunk lid and it is located underneath the passenger side headlight. The only problem with that is getting to it, because if the trunk lid is not open you cannot release the headlight to get to it. So you have to pull down the front passenger side wheel liner and reach up to find the cable. The second emergency release cable is for the engine lid. It is located underneath the drivers side tail light. Put some painters tape on your bumper under the tail light and use a plastic wedge to expand the gap between the light and bumper. Shine a light in the gap and you will see a cable that you can fish out with a coat hanger hook, or something with a hook on it. That will open the engine lid where you can get to the jumper points in the engine bay. With a good battery, connect to the jump points and that should enable you to get the trunk lid open. And let me use this opportunity to make a strong recommendation - once you get the trunk lid open so you can access the battery, pop the headlight and locate the emergency release cable. Then re-route the cable to just inside the front bumper tow hook plug. When, not if, in the future you have to deal with a dead battery, pop the tow hook plug and there is the emergency release cable.
  8. P1507 Throttle code again

    The first thing I would do is unplug the engine wiring harnesses on the right side of the engine bay and spray them with electrical contact cleaner, then plug and unplug them a couple of times to clean up the contacts. Do the same with each and every electrical connection on the TB. With those types of codes they all seem to point to some problem with the TB and control valves on the TB, and the DME is not receiving the correct readings from the TB, MAF sensor and other sensors.
  9. Speedometer and all gauge fail

    This is truly a mystery. Even disconnecting the battery the gauges do not return to 0. This suggests to me that the circuit board behind the cluster, and the connectors, need to be checked. One simple question is...does the car start and run? The reason for the question is that all of the inputs to the instrument cluster come from all over the car from various sensors, but the common point is the DME/ECU. That is what gets all of the sensor readings and sends them to the instrument cluster. And since you have a "tune", perhaps the DME/ECU needs to be reflashed or refreshed. Just some thoughts....
  10. Speedometer and all gauge fail

    ^^And maybe B10 as well.
  11. Speedometer and all gauge fail

    I would start by replacing the electrical part of your ignition switch. Known to cause all types of electrical gremlins.
  12. How to turn on Rear Fog Light?

    Only the drivers side rear fog light works. There is no passenger side rear fog light. That is by design. Just so you don't go running around checking all your wiring, fuses and bulbs.
  13. The sixty seconds on and then off is for e-gas calibration. On your car the signal for the accelerator pedal position is sent by wire to the throttle body. You should hear a whirring sound from the engine compartment. Fuel pressure regulators have been known to fail, not often, but they can fail.
  14. The simple answer is...yes. The DME/ECU relies on the CPS to determine where the crankshaft is in order to provide spark to each individual cylinder. No CPS, no spark.

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