hosickjg

I know this is a common problem however I'm hoping someone might shed some light. I haven't been able to find a forum with my exact symptoms:I've been driving the car all spring (1999 Boxster Base model) with no issues. The car is parked in the garage all the time and the floor under the drivers seat is always dry. As a side note the batteries in the keyless entry keys were dead when I bought the car and I've never replaced them and always use the valet key.The other morning I went out to start the car and when I unlocked the drivers door (manually with the valet key) the lights didn't come on in the interior and the sound of the locking system unlocking didn't happen (usually when you unlock the drivers door the passenger door unlocks, the odometer lights up and the truck/hood unlocks. None of these things happened and the red light on the radio continued flashing. I got in the car and turned the key in the ignition. When I turned it to "ON" the instrument cluster lit up but when I turned it to start nothing happened. The engine didn't turn over.I don't believe this is an ignition problem. I believe the Central Locking System is in "LOCK" mode which in turn is immobilizing the car. Is there a way to reset the Central Locking System? I have tryed using all my keys (2 regular and 1 valet) with the same results. I also changed the batterys in the other keys and attempted to link them (turning the keys in door while holding the unlock button) the CLS still won't deactivate. I believe because the system is locked its not allowing me to link my old keys.I understand there are fuses in the area of the CLS. I haven't taken the seat out yet.... where is it? I also am wondering if the switch in the drivers door that recognizes that you've unlocked the car may not be working and thats the source of my problem.Any suggestions from anyone that has had the same issue?

That was it. Thanks so much!!!!

I don't know if this list is still active but I have a 1999 Boxster with a locked Becker radio. Can someone please get me the code? Cdr-220 Type- 4462 Ser- W5011538 45/99 Now that I finally got to the end clearly it's still active. I'd appreciate any help I could get unloading this radio. Thanks. Original manual is long gone.

Replaced crankshaft position sensor and car fired up first try.

Was a bad ground on the engine. Cleaned it up and its all better now.

I tested the battery and it tested fine. Then I pulled the battery from my Daily Driver and the Porsche still did the same thing with that battery.

As if my Boxster doesn't already have enough problems it seems there's a new one. The latest thing its doing is not continuously turning over when being started. When you turn the key it turns over 1 or 2 or sometimes 3 times then stops turning over. If you turn the key off it does the same thing again. It won't continuously turn over though. I tested the starter and solenoid and they are fine. Is this a common issue? I know the ignitions are crap in these cars, does this sometimes happen when they go? Is there a relay that could be causing this?

I got the OBD2 Reader to work after reading a posting on Renntech. I added the forum below if anyone else had this problem. Now that the code reader is reading it had 0 codes. :( We did have a broken wire on the Crankshaft Position Sensor (pinched,,, my fault) that happened when we took the engine out; We soldered the wire. I am replacing that sensor tomorrow morning just in case (at $230!!!!!). I doubt that is it because there's no reason soldering shouldn't have allowed for plenty of signal. We have double and triple checked all wires. There are NO wires that aren't hooked up that either of us can find. We also went over all the wiring before the engine went in the car. Everything looks fine.

Just put a rebuilt engine (I did it so I know its done right) into my Boxster. Filled it up with fluids and it won't start. (I have never heard this car run before because I bought it as a rolling project) Checked the basics --> Has good compression in all cylinders (ruling out cam timing issues), has spark in all cylinders and has fuel under pressure in the fuel rails. The engine turns over and fires but won't run, just sputters and quits. I have an OBD2 Code-Reader made by IMMOVA (3100C) however when I hook it up all it will read is ERROR which is making me question the Onboard Computer as being a possible culprit. --->A little history: I bought the car with a bad engine and it had sat for 3 years before being sold. Have since replaced the engine. Carpets inside seemed dry when I bought it. The car has an appointment at Porsche at 9:30am on Saturday. Does anyone have any suggestions in the mean time?

Can you post a photo of your Home Depot foam repair. Im interested in seeing what it looks like.

We do not have service manuals for download here as they are copyrighted materials. Many do have access to them - so I suggest you ask for the specific torques you need (as they are spread through the related sections of the manuals (all 17 volumes). Got a hold of a manual, all is well now.

So I'm rebuilding my 986 2.5L Boxster engine and have requested torque specs for internal engine parts in a couple of forums with no response. I bought a Bentley Manual yesterday and was disappointed to find that there was NO information in Torque specs for Head Bolts, Main Bearing Bolts, Connecting Rod Bolts or anything I needed. Can anyone tell me ANYWHERE (other then Porsche that won't tell me) I can find this info? Is there a shop manual available to the public that I don't know about?

I think that is a Kukoo - 21-4 Don't be surprised if your KuKoo 21-4 breaks. Ours did. Than we welded to the IMS bearing race, which then of course broke. We the had to cut the bearing assembly out by hand. My mechanic partner is amazing. Took him almost 2 hours but no further problems. Put in the new IMSR -- been running great for months. Mike I was thinking about cutting it out. What did he use (a hacksaw)?

I'm doing some work on my Boxster engine currently and while the block was sitting out and before I built it up I decided to remove the IMS bearing cover to inspect it to make sure it looked okay and didn't wiggle. When I removed the cover the center of the bearing came out as well and all the ball bearings followed. Luckily it hasn't damaged the engine yet. I removed all the metal from the inside of the Intermittent Shaft and I am going to replace this broken one with an LN Engineering IMS bearing. The problem I now face is that the outer race of the old bearing is still inside the Intermittent Shaft and I can't remove it with a standard IMS bearing puller from LN Engineering. Has anyone experienced this problem? How did they get the outer race from the shaft? I will post a picture of what I'm dealing with in a little bit. I am also looking for some torque specs if anyone happens to know them: Can anyone tell me the torque specs for: -2 step head bolts -valve carrier -valve cover -those Torx-55's that hold on the flywheel Would be thankful for the help.