twsarch

Temporary fix for the top, probably too late for your trip. Disconnect the motor from the top and move it manually. There are instructions somewhere in the forum to pop out the actuator bars.

I got that, what is the value of such a car in this condition? I see a guy on e-bay trying to sell a stripped, burned out car (literally, as in it was on fire) with no wheels for almost $3K and another that runs but has problems for $4K?? what are these worth in non-running condition?

I think it is priced as a roller, what is a roller price? If all else fails I can sit in it in my driveway making Vroom-Vroom sounds. I am a pretty decent shade tree mechanic as long as I am not in a hurry and as I won’t need to drive this thing I can take my time. I was planning taking the engine out to do just the heads if that what gets done. I am assuming the engine will not last as long after the intermix as it would have otherwise.

I have a lead on buying a 2000 boxster S with an intermix problem. I am told the oil cooler has been ruled out and there was no catastrophic noise and it “is otherwise running fine”. Assuming it’s a cracked head, in a perfect world the engine needs to be rebuilt, but in my imperfect world of low finance, can the heads be removed and the rest of the engine be “flushed”? Then repair or replace the heads and go driving? If so can anyone recommend a flush procedure? If the damage is worse than a cracked head it will sit till I can afford to rebuild/replace the engine (Jake?). it is cheap enough to let it sit. I did this once before with a 4 cylinder ford (escort!), removed cracked head, filled with oil and drove the oil pump with a drill whale manually turning the engine over with a ratchet. Drain and repeat a few times. As far as I knew back then in the 80’s I made that procedure up. Drove that car 60K more miles until rust finished it (I was broke and in college when I did that, had 180K on it total).

I guess my question on the pressure plate was not so silly after all. I can’t think of anyone that would replace the clutch w/o replacing the pressure plate. Sounds to me like the guy that did it owes you a flywheel now.

I’m looking for a fixer upper to tinker with so a PPI doesn’t seem to make since for me, working on them is hopefully half the fun. I was fishing for guesses ahead of time so I can research them before going to look at it. My comment on cylinder sleeves is based on things I read regarding Porsche breaking one of their casting machines in ’99. To meet demand they allegedly started using previously rejected castings that they repaired, one of the repairs was cylinder sleeves inserted in place of the milled out defective cylinder. Guess they didn’t get the process right the first year and a lot of the sleeved slipped. Most of these have been warranteed by now but there is a danger of low mileage cars (like this one) still having the original engine. Of course this info was mostly from the internet so I can’t vouch for it accuracy. I consider the info is correct so I can assume the worst. If the price is low enough (this one may be) it may be worth re-building the engine.

Thank you. I love the car. Update here... Drove it 700 mi home and it drives fine with clutch but there are "2 catch points" or friction points. I have the initial engagement at about 1/4 way from the floor and then the actual "grab" portion about 3/4 from the floor. The problem I have is that I rev the engine expecting the grab early near the floor and then "pop" it thinking it is fully engaged when it is not. Thus the burning clutch smell :( Does the clutch wear in to where those 2 points become really close together? When I "shortshift" it and just push it about 1/4 in from top and get disengagement but not all the way to the floor, I still get the same smell like the clutch didn't fully disengage to begin with. Am I missing something or is something wrong with how I am clutching? (or is the clutch having issues and what do I tell the dealer as I have never dealt with a Porsche dealer before) This car was owned by a porsche dealer mechanic but I have never dealt with a dealership directly before. Plus I am now in a different state than the dealer it was "serviced" at. Thank you for the help thus far. Harryrcb is correct. No break-in period for clutch. When you said dealer replaced clutch, perhaps didn't replace throw out bearing. Are they reputable? I would take it back. How many miles? Depending on the miles there are a few other things to service while tranny is out. RMS, IMS (retrofit), AOS, oil filler hose(s), dip stick tube to name a few. Not necessary to change all but easier to examine and then replace as needed from below. Yes they are reputable. Posibly. I had them replace IMS (LN version), rear main seal and clutch disc. He said he was just putting a new one in as mine had probably 10k left in the old one (since the tranny was out for the IMS). Car has 165k on it now. did they replace the pressure plate?? silly question but it wasn't in your list of replaced items.

Still shopping for a cheep boxster, found one on e-bay near by (2 hour drive is near). The seller says it was sitting for a while and wouldn't start, so he/she is selling it. Supposedly it ran when they parked it in a garage and they say there was no strange or catastrophic noise last time it ran. They owned it new. Anyone care to hazard a guess as to why it wont start? They are telling me it gets fuel and spark to all cylinders. I cant get a clear answer to compression and leak down questions and cam timing wasn't looked at. Apparently they have it at a shop now. The “buy it now” price may be possible unless it needs new cylinder sleeves. I know 99 is probably the worst year for cylinder sleeve issues. If I buy it and it does need sleeves it will sit again until I can come up with the money for L&N

Update: the dealer had this car fixed and listed it for sale with a clean title and no accident listed on car-fax. If I remember correctly they were asking about $15K. it did sell but I don’t know for how much

Greetings. I am still shopping for a car I can afford. I am going to look at one that supposedly has a bad intercooler and has intermixed (yea, I know it could be something else much worse, cracked head, slipped sleeve etc.). I always assume an engine rebuild is in order after such an event but I figure it couldn’t hurt to ask what people think about cleaning out the engine and ways to do it, may consider even if it’s a cracked head. Same for the coolant circuit. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. I am on a tight budget and this will have to be an entirely DIY project including the PPI. I expect rust on manifold bolts and such on any car but like mike said, I haven’t heard anyone talk about rust after over 8 months of lurking in various forums.

I have been keeping an eye out for a deal on a 986 and been doing a bit of research as to problems with the car. I found lots of info about the engine problems, thin body sheet metal relating to the convertible top operation on the earlier cars and an assortment of electrical issues. I haven’t come across anyone mentioning rust, is this not a problem with these cars? I live in NY State and I suspect if I get a car it will be from somewhere around here too, the land of the salted winter road. I can see that most 986’s could be garaged for the winter but it would be my luck to get the one that was driven every winter of its life (I intend to drive it in the winter with minus size snows). Any input would be great, thanks.

Did not buy this one, still looking

I think you will find that it is the security computer in the car that goes to sleep after 5 days for so .... not the key. The key does not know how long its been since it was used to unlock the car. Yes, the car stops responding to the remote after a certain time and you have to manually insert the key in the ignition to reset the time period, and obviously the door to get in. I had this happen when someone wanted me to pick them up at the airport in their boxster. I got there early so I read that part of the owner’s manual to pass the time.

I am sure this car had serious problems, intermix to be specific and I am assuming it’s D-chunked. I was figuring in the cost of sending the half’s to LN engineering and was going to take Jake Raby’s M96 class. I did not get this car but am continuing to look; I am currently looking at one with the engine out that is defiantly D-chunked. FYI, I have some engine building experience with less complicated stuff, Chevy small blocks and the like and I have helped swap an engine in an air cooled 911 once (as well as an old beetle) so I have some clue, small as it may be as to what I will be getting into. It has been decades since I did any of this stuff. From the financial end of things I will have to spread the cost out over a year or two ….. or three, about how long it will take me to do this type of project anyway. The plan with this one was to get the car and Jakes class first, tear it down after the class and send to LN, then save up more for parts and do a bit at a time as cash and free time allow. Plan B: if during the class I decide I have no chance of doing the engine myself, I would buy another one (Raby currently has a used one with rebuild heads and the IMS retrofit for $8K or so, place in California has rebuilt stuff for $6K and up) Crazy plan I know.