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I'm confused. I've read front left and right rear and front right and left rear. Access thru front cover and access thru top cover. Is this discrepancy due to differences in years and models? In the US the drivers side is always the left. My car is a 2000 986 2.7. I am having trouble spotting it where the Bentley says it is (front left, right rear. Antone replaced these on a 986?
Thanks, The crank position sensor did the trick. The latest venture is to replace the cam position sensors. But I'm having a hard time finding them. 2000 2.7. Anyone replaced these? Bentley says left front and right rear, but I'm not finding them.
Hi everyone, I'm experiencing a rough idle on my boxster. I hooked up the Durametric and I have the following codes: P code 174 P code 62 P code 65 cyl 3 misfire P code 63 cyl 1 misfire P code 64 cyl 2 misfire. I had a misfire on a single cylinder a year or more ago and it was a hairline crack in a coil-pack. Any ideas what would cause 3 cyl. to miss all at once? I only replaced the 2 worse coil-packs last time. But its been running great until recently. I replaced the CPS which cured my hot-starting issues. The roughness seems to smooth out with increased rpm's although Its probably just less noticeable. Any input greatly appreciated. Thanks, Garry
Hi Maurice, today after putting the top in service position for a no start when engine is warm issue; the top would not go closed. When I pressed the button the motor would activate for down but in the up toggle nothing. Did this once last week, and after removing cables from motor I noticed the left one ( that I did not replace) sticking out about 3". I shoved it back and then the top worked perfectly. Today no dice. I closed it with my drill. Fuses ok. I did not notice the sensor by the motor that the Bentley shows. Seems weird that everything functions in down toggle and totally dead in up. Any ideas? Also do you know if a crank position sensor will allow a car to start and run but die upon reaching 180? Then will not restart till cold again? Thanks, Garry
Hmm. I didn't realize there was more than one. I just remember reading a post that they could be problematic in relation to similar problems as mine. Can they be tested with the Durametric? I think was going to replace the one by the carbon canister at one time but I kept getting the wrong one shipped to me. My canister has three fittings on top and none on the bottom. The piece I got was for the canisters with a fitting on the bottom. Is there a way to trouble shoot them by being able to blow, or not blow through the hoses? Thanks, Garry
Yep, my car does the exact same thing as Bar10dah. And I've also replaced all those same parts to no avail. Definetly needed some of them like the oil filler tube and carbon canister. But yeah I can drive hundreds of miles on the interstate no code. Idle at 2 long lights and codes.
Thanks Maurice. I pulled the immobilizer today, cleaned it well, checked solder joints under magnification. Replaced and same old thing. An engine speed sensor code appeared on durametric. Also while it was still running, I revved the engine, and observed if I stomp the gas quickly, there's a hiss, slight hesitation, then revs ok. I liken it to a loose or missing vacuum hose symptoms on other cars I've had. Is there a way to narrow down a vacuum problem with the durametric? I checked the small lines on the large hose by the throttle body. I assume speed sensor is crank sensor. Can the crank sensor be cleaned or adjusted, or just replaced? I do hear a click on the carbon canister valve. I know I can do tons more with the durametric than I'm doing. Not sure what all the values imply. Any feed back appreciated. Garry
Last night I started it, erased codes, and let it idle until it died about 15min. Warmed up to 180 degrees. Code popped up immobilizer failure. Should my next action be to remove the drivers seat and check the immobilizer fuse? Or will it start at all if that's blown? Thanks
Thanks guys, Yes I have a flow meter, and I'll do a test. The tank vent issue is ongoing and I've thrown hundreds in parts at it but it reoccurs. I can drive several hundred miles on the interstate and the cel will not come on. 50 miles around town and it's on. I've noticed it will cold start but not hot start. Does cold starting eliminate crank sensor? Does it imply something else? I also checked the grounds on each side of the computer in rear trunk and they are ok.
Hi Hi, I could use some help. My Boxster left me stranded at a light. Would crank but not start. After checking fuel pump fuse was ok I had it towed home. I jumpered pins 30 and 87 on fuel pump relay and it started. Ordered relay from Pelican. Installed, it started, drove 5 miles to an appointment, then would not restart. Towed home. Before I hooked up Durametric I tried ignition and it started. Durametric revealed 6 codes. The first one has been ongoing. The last 5 are new. P0455:Porsche fault code 94 - Tank vent system (major leak) P1130:Porsche fault code 361 - Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range bank 2 P1341:Porsche fault code 174 - Camshaft adjustment bank 1 below limit value P1579:Porsche fault code 111 - Crankshaft sensor P0336:Porsche fault code 110 - Engine speed sensor Open circuit P1124:Porsche fault code 167 - Fuel pump relay below limit value Regarding the first ongoing code, I've replaced the gas cap, carbon canister, vacuum canister, secondary air vac valve, 2 check valves. Still got that code but was running fine so I ignored it awaiting more insight. Also I've replaced the fuel filter less than 10,000 miles ago. I did not think to unhook maf during start failure. I did replace it within 10,000 miles though. It was running normal prior to problem. I did detect a very slight miss at idle similar to when I had a hairline crack in a coil pack. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Garry
Maurice, I ordered a cable, and 2 ball joints. Today I installed everything and re-attached the slide. And now everything works perfectly. I also cleaned and regreased the slides. Thanks a million for your assistance. Garry
Thanks Maurice, I'll investigate further for other potential parts to order. And go from there. You've been a tremendous help!
Maurice, Sorry for the delayed response; a drunk driver hit me on my bike and I've been moving slower than normal. Problems I've detected so far: ball popped out of the plastic slide on the right side, and cable broken at the motor on the right side. My red ball joints looked ok at a glance, however after re-reading your post just now, it appears I should have a third problem for the top to have dropped. Is that correct or could the combo of other problems have caused that? Thanks a bunch, Garry