alabamatoy

Do we know that the heater core flowthrough is necessary to proper engine cooling? I doubt that it is. If so, a simple shutoff valve may be used. I did this on my Ford truck, and it makes the AC far more effective. If the cutoff valve turns out to make the engine run hot, it can be left in the open position with no harm done, or it could be replaced with a simple pipe nipple. This is what I used on my Ford. Obviously you gotta get the correct pipe diameter for this application. But it works well: shut it off in spring, open 'er back up in the fall.

Pentosin CHF seems to work fine. Its readily available from most el-cheapo car parts chains. I am told that Pentosin CHF is what most of the German marques call for, all except Porsche.

Reviving a very old but very useful thread. AFA the parking brake defeat mod, would it not be a lot simpler to just jumper across the little switch in the parking brake lever? Its a very simple little switch, normally closed, with the parking brake lever down (i.e. parking brake NOT operated) it goes open. This would make it much simpler if you want to put it back the way it was.

Finally received the Durametric. The immobilizer fault code led me back to the E1 fuse, which I had already looked at, but I looked again. It was blown but I havent seen one blow with such a small damage to the fuse link, so I didnt see it the first time - I guess the lesson learned here is test the doggone fuze. Now that its back together, its throwing some kind of airbag fault which I will chase next. What bothers me is that I still have found no damage anywhere that would have caused the blown fuse. I was expecting to find the rodents had dined on my wiring, but thus far, no such find. Thanks very much to those who helped me diagnose this. I am so glad to have my Mistress back up and running!

This is going from bad to worse. Thank you JFP and Ahsai for your insight and suggestions. I have traced this problem to the Pin 85 being ungrounded. I jumpered the relay and the engine spins with the key in start position, but it wont start. The clutch switches check out with a DMM. Durametric is on order (I was looking for an excuse, but not this one!) so I am hopeful that it will give me codes to chase. I am very fearful that the rodent which built the nest I pictured above has chewed wires elsewhere. This could get really really ex$pen$ive I will post back up in a few days with what I find after a more thorough inspection of the wiring (like pulling the driver's seat to check the immobilizer fuse and related cabling) and what the Durametric tells me. And yes, I will be setting some peanut butter traps in my garage!!!

The relay does not click. The problem is in one of either 85 or 86 pins of the relay, but I havent been able to figure out which. But your suggestion is a profoundly good one in that it would allow me drive the car to someone who has the appropriate scan tool rather than having it towed. Thanks!

Well, I found at least a portion of my problem. Sorry, dont know how to resize the image in this forum. Some vermin moved into the nice space between my starter (on the left, with the two nuts holding two big wires on) and the Air-Oil separator (the finned thing at right). The wretched rodent chewed some of the wire coverings, but really didnt chew any wires that I can find. So its something else. The solenoid lead is intact all the way back to the starter relay in the rear of the passenger compartment. I have current from the ignition switch, and the starter relay checked out, so something is preventing starting and its one of those bazillion circuits that run all over the wiring diagram. I guess its time for a diagnostic tool...

This is one of the great things about living in good old Alabama.

2000 996 manual. No voltage at the starter solenoid when the key is in start position. Clutch interlock switches are functioning correctly, checked those. Battery voltage is good. Key remote will lock and unlock the car from a short distance, so its not a key battery. I have 3 keys, tried all 3, no joy. A conductor placed between the main power lug and the solenoid lug on the starter will instantly spin the engine, so there is something in the electrical system preventing voltage at the solenoid lead. I could find no fuses for the start circuit, is there one hidden somewhere? Bentley service manual says to check the "electronic immobilizer". Well, its certainly immobilizing me $#!+ Are there reasonably priced aftermarket scanners which can scan for "electronic immobilizer" codes? My OBD-II scanner says "no DTCs stored".

I upgraded mine with DDM Tuning chinese 55 watt HIDs about 4 years ago and have had no issues*. I only upgraded the low beams, as I rarely use the high beams. The HIDs have caused no problems thus far. The ballasts mount nicely on the little back access door of the removable headlight module. * I did have one ballast burn out. DDM replaced it though.

I love this forum for this kind of useful tech! I have same problem - hook cover has cracked, and I now have a finely crafted and carefully calibrated Popsicle stick with which I depress the limit switch when the top is closing in order to make the latch stay closed and not recycle. I have considered painting it black and adding the Porsche stenciled name, thereby dramatically increasing its value. My question - I noticed that the latch hook is actually hitting its hole somewhat to the left of where it should, and this is probably what caused the latch cover to break. So when I replace the latch hook cover, I would like to remedy the offset position of the hook. Is there any method to adjust the hook left-to-right so that it hits the hole on target? The centering pads at each end of the leading edge of the top align the whole top correctly, but the hook itself is well off-center. Any advice would be appreciated.

Not absolutely sure, but Im fairly certain that there is no solution for this. You will have to replace the head unit in order to be able to connect Sirius into it. There are lots of choices, though. I bought a low-end Kenwood unit with the Sirius remote, which I mounted under the hood. The antenna is mounted under the plastic GPS antenna on the dash at the base of the windshield. Seems to work fairly well. The only way I know to plumb Sirius (or iPod or similar) into an old OEM radio is if that radio is cassette player. There are cassette "tapes" out there that have a pigtail that you plug into the iThing or the Sirius receiver to play through the cassette player deck. These work well, but are messy with wires hanging out the front the tape deck. Makes the radio look like its drooling. Yes, there are Sirius units that output a low-power FM signal, but they dont work worth squat in my experience. If you live in radio-free north-central Mississippi where there are empty freqs on the FM dial perhaps, but even in the relatively unpopulated area where I live, the FM signals from the Sirius will be overwhelemed by whatever is out there and cause interference. There are some FM antenna coax switching units which disconnect your FM antenna when the Sirius unit is turned on....that might work, but I have never tried one of those. Get a direct connect, for heaven's sake. And NONE of these solutions integrate the control of the Sirius receiver into the head-unit like a new HU that's designed for that function. Recommend www.crutchfield.com I have bought numerous replacement radios from them, and their installation kits are excellent and complete.

X2 Sometimes mine sounds like an old Frankenstein movie coffin lid opening.....

I have my original factory radio sitting on a shelf, and it can easily be reinstalled. The replacement that I got from Crutchfield and installed myself is infinitely better sounding, and it supports the integrated serius receiver which is mounted under the hood. The Sirius antenna is mounted under the little plastic dome cover at the center of the dash and the bottom of the windshield. The factory radio doesnt add any value to the car. The Kenwood that I installed as a replacement is black, and looks very factory.

For the glue, instead of gorilla glue which dries very stiff and almost brittle, try using "automotive goop" This stuff seems very strong, remains somewhat flexible over time, and yellows only slightly in UV. Seems to work well.

Clicked on the donate button, get to step 2, click on donate now and paypal page comes up saying the previous transaction failed. If yall are trying to pass the email address used for login on this forum to paypal, that's dumbern dirt. You dont think Im going enter that email address into a public forum, do you? :rolleyes: I wanted to donate, but the system appears to be preventing me from doing so. Renntech forum saved me some major $$$ yesterday, just tryin to do the right thing here....

Im having forum issues. This forum doesnt work like any of the zillions of others Ive used. Loren wrote: "Perhaps this will help some - the factory routing (all Porsches have factory custom wiring harnesses)" That's great, very helpful, something I have actually been looking for, but its apparently hidden behind some javascript popup. I would like very much to have the file, and be able to print it etc. The help says to use the download tab at the top of any page, and I see no downloads tab. Searching in the downloads listing under the documents menu for "sensors" and "sensors.png" brings no joy. Does the help mean "document menu" when it says "downloads tab"? What insanely obvious overly simple step am I missing?

A power bleeder is very easy to make. All you need is a 1 gal garden sprayer (about $10 from Lowes/Home Depot) and some 1/4" plumbing parts and a pressure gauge. Here's a writeup I did on the one I made for my Toyota 4X4. For the Porsche, I *should* need only another replacement cap for the porsche master or clutch cylinder reservoir, another 1/4" quick disconnect, and some glue to seal the fitting onto the cap. I need to find a dismantler who will sell me a used cap to butcher.