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Tom M replied to sprocket's topic in 92A (Cayenne, Cayenne Diesel, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)I had an actuator that failed on the right rear door. At first it was intermittent and the door would sometime lock and others not. It would always lock with the door not physically closed but with the latch in the closed position. I finally gave up on it and bought a used replacement actuator as the iCarScan also said it was a bad actuator. Problem solved. It's a DIY to do the replacement but I really relied on ALLDATAdiy to get it done as there's lot's of steps to replace the actuator and some are not obvious.
The only thing I had to do after getting mine installed was to go into the TPMS screen on the MFD and reselect the tire settings. They then picked up the correct tire pressure on the drive home.
Tom M replied to Tom M's topic in 92A (Cayenne, Cayenne Diesel, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)No real change in driving going on so I don't think that's it. It'll happen, for example, when I'm just starting out after backing out of a parking space or shortly thereafter. It's happened on an off ramp while just coasting to slow down and then using the brakes with no other cars around. It's also happened on the highway just flowing with traffic and needing to slow a bit due to traffic slowing a reasonable distance ahead. Try as I might I have not been able to reproduce at will nor can I correlate it with any specific activity.
I installed new rotors and pads on my 2011 CS just over a year ago and also flushed the brake fluid. At that time I switched to ceramic pads to help reduce the dust and knew they wouldn't have as much bite (or dust) as the stock pads and I was OK with that. Over the course of the year the brake pedal became a bit softer but they would bite firmly once in a while. Last weekend I flushed the brakes again and the softness is gone but they do still seem to have more boost at times. I've checked the vacuum pump at the secondary port and it's got plenty with no leak down after the engine is turned off. I don't think it's anything major as no codes are being thrown so I'd tend to rule out a faulty brake booster. The other possibility seems to be a faulty check valve but I can't find any information or part numbers for a replacement if that's indeed what the problem is. Looking for any additional ideas or the check valve p/n.
Indeed it was. You can also use the search by vehicle to find what works and if there's any question you can give them a call to confirm. I've got no affiliation with the site other than being a satisfied customer.
I used these and had the local Discount Tire install them for $20. No programming required and they work fine. http://www.tpms.com/Huf_IntelliSens_RDE011_Set_p/uvc0011set.htm
Tom M replied to Georgeramosjr's topic in 92A (Cayenne, Cayenne Diesel, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)My recollection on this from when I hardwired my V1 was that the clips deformed when pulling down the assembly. It was necessary to bend them into the correct shape again for them to provide sufficient holding force. I found this by carefully examining how they latched in and it was clear that the shape was incorrect when pushing them back up. Look closely at the clip and what it latches onto and you should see what I'm talking about.
This was originally posted on rennlist but never received any replies so I thought I'd try mu luck here. I picked up a Draw-Tite hitch for my 2011 CS during the 20% eBay coupon sale the other day as the price was just too good. I likely won't need a controller right away but in looking at which controller would be needed it is, needless to say, a bit confusing as to which will work. What I'm seeing is the current version is 7P0-907-383-G. It appears the the original version that came with the MY11 is 7P0-907-383-B and there seems to also be the 7P0-907-383-F for the VW/Audi variants. There are quite a few of the B/F versions available used. I know the G version will work but will either the B or F versions also work w/o any issues? I've looked around a bit but can't find any place that documents what the changes are between the various revisions.
In doing my water pump I'm also replacing the serpentine belt. I'd like to replace the tensioner pulley/roller as it is lightly grooved, however the roller is no longer listed as a separate item on the 958. There's really no reason to replace the entire bracket so will the 957 roller assembly work (p/n 9A1-102-212-00 )? If not, is there another direct replacement?
Tom M replied to Tom M's topic in 92A (Cayenne, Cayenne Diesel, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)Don, I've read about them on multiple places and may add some JB Weld since I've got things apart currently. I just need to pick up the hi temp flavor. On the plus side, mine looks to be in good shape with no indication of movement so adding the JB Weld may end up like wearing a belt with suspenders, but there's no real harm in doing so.
Tom M replied to Tom M's topic in 92A (Cayenne, Cayenne Diesel, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)Ho Loren. I'm talking about this step... There's no indication as to how much force is required to extricate the thermostat from the housing. It should just be held in by the gaskets at this point so I would think it would come out w/o too much effort - maybe 10-20 lbs of pull. Guess I'll pull harder. ETA: The answer is to indeed pull harder. Takes quite a bit to get it removed.
I'm in the process of replacing the water pump on my 2011 CS due to a failed bearing and am also going to replace the thermostat since I'm in there and the car's got 99K on it. I've followed all the steps on the AllDataDIY site but the thermostat doesn't want to budge. Yes, I've removed the cable plug so nothing should be holding it in except the gaskets. I guess the question is how much force does it take to actually pull it out? The repair guide doesn't give any clue and I don't want to just yank on it if something is holding it in.
Tom M replied to doublegarage's topic in 92A (Cayenne, Cayenne Diesel, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne S Hybrid)I just had this happen to my 2011 CS w/95,800 miles yesterday on the way home. My first thought, when I started seeing all the warnings pop up, was the variocam bolts let go. Fortunately it smoothed back out after I pulled off. I read/cleared the codes with my Durametric when I got home and all was fine on the way into work this morning. Based on the research I'm betting on it being a coil starting to go bad. The local dealer wants twice as much as mail order so I'm hoping things will last until a replacement coil gets here in a few days.
Some additional information... I set the system to open all doors today at lunch instead of the driver's door first and it unlocks and disables the alarm just fine. I then reset it back to unlock the driver's door and the alarm stays active until the 2nd push. My Durametric is not able to read the door module for some reason (never has so that isn't new) so I'm guessing there's an error there someplace. At least I've got a workaround for now.
Tom M started following Interior alarm active after unlocking using remote
This just started the other day on my 2011 S. When I unlock the car using the remote the interior alarm stays active and goes off when I open the door. If I unlock all the doors using a double-push the interior alarm shuts off and I can open the door with not problems. I verified this by watching the indicator LED on the door while standing next to it. A single push unlocked the door and the light changed to a slow blink. Re-lock it and do double-push and the light goes out. I checked for codes using the Durametric and the only thing to show up was (1538/602 & 1539/603) under the CAN section. These are the same ones I had when the head unit was out for repair about a year ago so I don't necessarily think they are related to the current problem. No other codes/faults were reported when running the Durametric short test and I cleared the faults last night. I just reran the Durametric short test after driving in to work this morning and there were no failures. However when unlocking the car the interior alarm stays active with only a single press of the remote. A double press unlocks all doors and turns off the alarm. This is based on observing the indicator in the door. Anybody have suggestions on what to check next?