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janebang83
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A tip on the original headlight switch DIY install. At the end (after everything is back in the dash), turn switch to the high beam setting and then pull out for fog-light (with pliers). This will make it easy to snap the knob back onto its post and lock into place.
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Thanks for hanging with me on this, logray. Joys! :thumbup: Problem fixed - and (unfortunately) nothing so evil. First the embarrassing part: I originally changed the bulb as first step (or so I thought) - had replaced (known good) high beam instead of low beam - and I thought for sure I double-checked that (i.e., low beam is actually one on top of headlamp assembly) - did the same thing a month ago on the driver side. :blush: What threw me off was that the lamp was dim after replacement (rather than fully off). That may still be indicative of something untoward because the bulb element was totally broken - could it really have developed a drop across it to work dimly? If so, why? So now, I've got to take the headlight switch out again and do a better job of reinstalling it so knob catch correctly attaches. :cursing: $116 lesson on not working on car late at night when tired... Thanks again for support/advice - especially the support! p.s. connectivity between headlamp connector and wire on bulb was fine although, inspecting the wires going into the headlamp side connector more closely, wouldn't surprise me at all if (when) those wires work themselves lose from that connector.
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No joy <_< I got the switch on "ok", but still have a dim passenger headlight. Still, I appreciate the DIY instructions here. The hard part for me was getting the assembly back in place. No clearance for the screw lugs (that the 2 side screws screw into) (not sure how to keep them in place while pressing the vent back on). Also switch lug didn't protrude enough for the knob to snap back on. I thought it would be automatically positioned when I twisted the switch into place and then retightened fastening nut 26. Was afraid I'd overtighten 26 and crack 27. I'll have to take it off again tomorrow and try again. Then I guess I'll have to go back to debugging. I'll end up taking off the "known good" driver headlight to measure voltages at the connector for reference. If anyone has any suggestions, would appreciate them. Also, the connector on the "car" side (i.e., inside the passenger front fender) is firmly attached to a strong metal bracket - That side cannot come loose. All the connector plugs look the same depth (i.e., not pushed out/loose). Nothing untoward on the headlight assembly connector either.
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Is it necessary to disconnect the battery before proceeding with Loren's headlight switch DIY?
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Thanks logray, I missed your reply. The fuse looked fine, but just in case, I did replace - headlight still dim on lowbeam. Am now going to proceed with headlight switch replacement.
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One headlight out
janebang83 replied to juddtaylor's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I have passenger side dim low beam. Replaced bulb, but same. I can't see any issue with connector per Loren's suggestion. Trying to debug further before putting a new switch in. Please tell me normal voltage readings at connector? (other side bulb was replaced about month ago so am skeptical. 99 996 c2 -
Thanks for posting. But before I go this route, I'd like to know if someone has advice for troubleshooting a bad switch? In particular, I have a dim passenger low-beam ('99 996 Carrera). I replaced the bulb - still low. I looked at wiring diagram from Tech manual for U.S. cars. Low beam is across pins 4 and 9 of the 10-pin headlight assembly connector. I measured ~ 12.5V. With high-beam engaged, I measured ~ 12.3V across low-beam and ~ 12.4V across high-beam (pins 1 and 2). However, I cannot find what is normal voltages for low-beam on/off. Can anyone advise? Thank you in advance.