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Uwon

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About Uwon

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Ontario, Canada
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2006 Porsche 997 C2S, Carrera RST hot rod, 2010 Audi A4
  • Future cars
    991, Macan
  • Former cars
    ‘31 Model A 5 window coupe, Jag. XK120....., ‘86 911 Hot Rod
  1. Uwon

    Decode a 1980 sc with the vin #

    First thing is to get a Certificate of Authenticity through Porsche North America. google and Porsche web site will be your friend. The certificate will tell you the color, options, etc. Post some pics of your car. This will help to get some feedback for you to consider. Cheers, johan
  2. As well, the rear spoiler appears to be misaligned vis-a-vis the deck lid. Likely an alignment job for an experienced body man. Good luck. Johan
  3. I’m probably at least 4 inches from the top!! Isn’t the 996 and 997.1 clutch mechanism the same?
  4. Loren, I’ve had similar experience with my old 911 which I also tracked extensively. I do change the brake fluid by-annually (and slave bleeding) last one this spring, with no change in pedal feel nor engagement. From your comment, are you suggesting that my pedal engagement should be higher than 2.5-3.0 inches from the floor? Do these clutches finally granade without warning or do they gradually make first gear engagement progressively more difficult from a standing start? I just am unfamiliar as to what I’m likely to expect.
  5. 2006 C2S, All highway driving. From past experience with my cars, I know that I am gentle on my clutch/trani. 108,000 miles on original clutch. Pedal travel is still 2.5-3.0 inches from floor to start of engagement. I do not think that pedal effort has increased. Am I on borrowed time? Thoughts? Thanks in advance. Johan
  6. Hence my qualification if themissfire happens in damp/rainy weather where deteriorated coil(s) are more likely to show faults. If one is cracked surely one or more will be right behind and H2O will only serve to identify the culprits earlier. BTW, I share this from actual experience. Long trip through the U.S. Dry day-no issues; next day, quite humid- started misfire; third day -rain-crawled to the dealer. Multiple cylinder misfires. Johan
  7. If you had the misfires in damp/rainy weather then the coils are suspect. Johan
  8. No special tool supplied with my car. Can you use a straightened out paper clip as in the 996? johan
  9. Loren, I’m wondering how the key tumbler assembly interacts with the module above. Does the tumbler push a rod into the module for the first click of the key followed by a further turn of the rod (with fingers, presumably) to start the car? Johan
  10. Are you referring to the control module? I found this on Pelican and it appears to screw in rather than being held by two mall screws. johan
  11. 2006 C2S I’ve unsuccessfully searched the forums for my issue. About half the time, I turn the ignition key but nothing happens-no dash lights and starter won’t engage (with clutch fully depressed). Happens whether or not the steering wheel is in the locked position. I am able to overcome the issue by pulling out the key, wiggling the steering wheel and re-inserting/turning the ignition switch several times. Is this a DIY lubrication issue, or, does it require a new ignition switch and/or key barrel? thanks in advance. Johan
  12. ^^^^+1 Common issue. However, you may also want to consider the following; 1, how many miles on clutch and is the pedal effort getting harder? 2.what kind of driving on clutch? Track, highway, multiple drivers, city, etc. 3, have you recently changed the brake fluid and/or bled the slave cylinder? 4, have you recently checked or changed the trani oil? 5. Is your shifter sloppy? You may need new linkage components. 6. If you have not already done so, search this forum for similar issue. Do post your findings Cheers Johan
  13. Will this hack work on the 2005-06 997 fog lights. Johan
  14. Google Response Engineering. Yarko is probably your go to guy locally. Johan
  15. +1 LN Engineering is no doubt one of the best authorities on the subject but you should educate yourself with the different offerings by doing a google search. This is not rocket science. BTW, a failed IMS bearing is not something that is usually preceded by noise or fluid leak. It most often just granades necessitating a full tear down, and rebuild. Johan
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