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The K24's are a little bigger than the K16's and take a little more time to spool, will be hard to get around physics. Since the engine is more or less an air pump, the trick is to get more air through it spinning the turbos more, Porsche has done a good job with the motor in regards to efficiency,however there are a few things you can do to open the intake and exhaust more, one of the things we did is port match the oem headers, dont waste your time or money on aftermarket, the oem ones are very good, port matching will help some. If you are using a factory exhaust, I would recommend a freer flowing exhaust such as Europipe, 911 tuning and protomotive, a little expensive but will definitely open up the airlfow and sounds fantastic. Porting the heads and some valve work will probably give you the biggest gains but also keep your car down the longest and maybe cost prohibitive pending what you want to do, all the above will do amazing things. Hope this helps.
Interecoolers wont *give* you more power but will help prevent loss of power reduced timing from heat. As far as turbos, if you want less lag, the general rule is a smaller turbo, there are some exceptions such as bearing types and hybrid configurations. the simple answer in your case is definitely open up the exhaust (I*really* like the Europipe) and get a well established vendors tune, this alone will make quite a bit of difference for the buck.
You can use modeling plastic and putty and form or reinforce the broken areas. Takes time and patience but definitely doable and a heck of a lot less expensive. I also use rubber washers to help prevent over torqueing Yeah, both too in my case. Do you have any link to this LED sell on 6speed?
The RAM (hydraulic lift) has failed, you can check the under side of the engine cover to check for moisture (leaking hydraulic fluid), which is not good for painted surfaces. This is very common and unfortunately expensive to fix. Most people find a way to leave it down / up position or upgrade the entire engine cover and wing to the GT2 version (What I did) which is lighter and has no moving parts to fail. Several vendors offer the GT2 front and rear, *highly* recommend the urethane vesion of the front bumper if you go that direction. You might be able to get used parts but the eventuality of it or the other side failing is a probability //Anders
Cant help you with the power issues, but you want the parking brakes to appear ON, this is the override that allows you to be able to do inputs and video while driving. It also appears that you do not have the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) connected properly and/or the GPS antennae connected or visible to the satellites. Check the satellite reception in the GPS signal menu for singal, this should be giving speed and direction updates, the VSS supplies speed when in a tunnel or no signal. Hope this helps. //Anders
I have a couple questions.. does your battery drain while the car alarm is armed or not? Porsches will drain battery, albeit over time, when the alarm is not armed, the way it was explained to me is that the DME was still processing. the 2nd question is if there is any aftermarket electronics installed? new stereo, amp, radar detector etc. First areas I would check are the battery cables that attach to the terminals, make sure they arent worn and shorted on anything, Id sya trunk and engine light but that wouldnt drain the battery that quickly.
I had the same issue and reused mine on my '01turbo but also checked periodically just in case (Do NOT over-tighten, or life will bedcome messy and complicated;-). After that time I order them 2-3 at a time so I always have them, I also get the copper/bronze crush gaskets for the turbo sumps as well, those are holy hell to find locally if in a pinch. HTH //Anders
I expected monkey crap brown or avocado green, your choice in color is fine. I am curious about the RMS though, I know the non GT1 cars had an RMS issue, but its news to me on a turbo. The new shocks and tires is completely up to you, probably upgrade eventually anyway. Depending on the spoiler faults, the RAMs (hydraulic lifts) are known to fail, this can be very expensive and most either leave it full up or down and pull the fuse or get a fixed wing. The boots are normal wear, half the rear lights I have seen have the area where it bolts to the car either cracked or broken and not sure about the stalk not holding. If you were rally concerned about the RMS get another PPI, that seems suspicious to me but 27k seems like a fair price. C. Anders
Yep, alternator. Mine happened all of a sudden, low voltage but had a battery/generator cel. Made horrendous noise when reving motor, good news is you can get a bosch remanufactured for a fraction of the price of new with near same reliability. Cant really complain, mine lasted 10 years.
Outside of a minute chance of FOD (Foreign Object Damage) getting into the intake tract, I wouldn't think there would be any harm in driving with boost after re-installing the boost hose outside of it happening again, most people just upgrade to silicon hoses. Btw, there was a TSB and design change to the boost hoses back in 01, 02 and maybe 03, I dont know the specifics but it would be due diligence to do a search on the forums, could very well address your situation.
DeepBlue replied to Endless's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2It is not broken to fix and is by design, one of the advantages is to use the trickle battery charger. Hard wiring the detector into the fuse panel will resolve this. Not much help, but this is how it is.
My 996TT had a massive leak once, open the front hood/trunk, 4x10mm bolts on top of the plastic piece (there is a 10mm in the tool kit), remove the plastic cover and there is the access to the fuel hoses and access to the fuel pump. Mine had a hose that popped off, reattached and made sure it was secure, havent had a problem since. This might appear to be coming down th shroud, I'd check the hoses and cap first.