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About Mijostyn

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 02/12/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    911s, Audiophile, Cycling, Skiing, Woodworking

Profile Fields

  • From
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2006 C4S AeroKit
  • Future cars
    2014 991 Turbo S
  • Former cars
    1986 944 Turbo / 1995 C4 / 1997 TT / 1999 C2 / 2001 TT

Recent Profile Visitors

888 profile views
  1. Got the Numeric cables and Shift Console installed this weekend. Having read that the cables increase transmission whine I used all the insulators and Grommet that came on the stock cables and shifted them to the Numeric cables. Getting the grommet in from below is impossible so I jammed it in from the top which seems to have worked fine as I have absolutely no increase in transmission whine that I can tell. Shifting is much more direct and mechanical, like having a gated sifter. The abrupt "thunk" at the end of each shift might bother some people. It is almost like tapping a hammer against a thick steel plate. Shifting effort is decreased even with the same throw as the short throw Porsche shifter that came with the car. I did this because I was having trouble shifting into 1st and 2nd which my Indy thought might be a cable or cable end problem so I figured that while I had the car apart I might as well go all the way. Is it worth $900? I would have to say that unless you are in love with rifle bolt shifting and otherwise have normal shifting the answer is no. If your cables break which seems to be not unusual then going for the Numeric cables is a go. They are very well made, appear very durable and are a breeze to adjust. You definitely do not need the jig that is sold to hold the shifter in position. The Numeric Shift console is certainly a nice piece and I have nothing to say against it other than the price. A shame that it is entirely hidden. It is certainly has better bearings than even the Porsche GT3 unit.
  2. Well I did not fall for the Light weight fly wheel but I did fall for the transmission mount inserts, the softer ones. The problem I was trying to solve was with rapid transitions in power I could feel the engine banging around back there sort of like driveline lash. Everyone told me it was normal but I had never felt it in the 7 other 911s I had owned. They all said the motor mounts were fine. The one thing that most definitely went away with the stiffened motor mounts was the thunk-thunk I was getting on and off the power. The transmission mount stiffener by itself did not significantly increase the vibration in the car but it did change the sound seeming to lower it in frequency. The new stock motor mounts are on the way and I am hoping they will solve the thunk problem. You can "tune" the transmission mount inserts by trimming back the ears that insert into the slots in the mount. Guess I have nothing better to do.
  3. Hi Everyone, I got my car back from my Indy and the clutch feels great! Feeling chipper I decided to mount a set of Rennline Semi Solid Engine Mounts as one of my old mounts had failed and I though I'd like a little more "character" in the car. Installing them was easy and I used the softest yellow inserts. My experienced advise is......DON"T DO IT!!!! There is a more vibration and low frequency buzz below 3000 RPM. Above 3000 the car is intolerable. At 85 MPH the entire car is buzzing and frankly sounds awful. It is nothing like putting a louder street exhaust in it. If you are racing just put the solid mounts in it. If not and you want a little more stiffness get the Porsche GT3 mounts. This is a big mistake if you use your car as a daily driver like I do and even if you do not I can not believe anyone in his right mind would think this sounds good. And by the way my Indy politely warned me not to do it just not firm enough. Anyone want to try them? You can have these, just pay for the shipping.
  4. The Roadster Bags I saw were only for C2's It specifically says, "nicht AllRad." Just measure the trunk and go to your local department store and get roller bags that fit. The ones we have lie down and stack one on top of the other. Having said that the bulk of the luggage and stuff goes behind the front seats. Duffels work great. I put the front wheels of our bikes back there. Get the roof racks. In the Summer our bikes go up there and in the winter a Thule box for the skis and whatever does not fit in the car. Once I transported 200 board feet of Mahogany tied to the racks, a rather silly sight. Tried to upload some pics but it would not do it for me :-(
  5. Great. What I might do then is tie some twine to the cable ends below and the other end to the tranny so when l pull the cables out from above the twine will follow the same route then reverse the procedure. It looks to me that the only real screw up you can make is attaching the cables to the wrong actuator. I would do that.
  6. Hi Everyone, Since I just blew my wad on a clutch I'm going to tackle the shift cables and console by myself. Taking the center console apart and installing the new console (DesignTek) will be easy. Getting the cables through the tunnel not so. I see a rubber gasket that passes through the sheet metal right over the torque tube to the front of the car. Can those cables and gasket be run through from the top? I know I have to get under the car to attach the cables to the transmission but trying to get the cables through from below will be a night mare with the torque tube in the way.
  7. At 64 I'm not in bad shape but King Kong I am most definitely not although my wife might disagree (Viagra:-). I think I'll wait for the lift. Anyway with entirely new internals I should be able to make it another 100K before it has to be done again, about 10 years.
  8. I went to see the car this afternoon. The flywheel definitely went more than 15mm, more like 25mm. It did return sort of to center but there was some slop around dead center. It's going. I always though the clutch in this car felt numb in comparison to the other 911s I have owned. I wonder if that was why. It is a little "damp" under the RMS and there have been two updates since this car was built. Along with your logic clinches it for me. This indy has the appropriate tool so I am not worried. The was an old Lambo Diablo on the lift next to mine that just had an engine rebuilt. Boy what a nightmare it is under that car. That god for 911s! Could I have done the clutch. Ya sure but on jack stands I would have hated every minute of it and would have always wondered if I got it right. Now having seen what it takes I might try it next time....if I ever get that lift.
  9. Yes, the DMF turns like 2.5 cm side to side and is a little "sloppy" but There was no unusual transmission noise. 1st and second gears are not shifting well but I think that is do to worn cable ends. I am replacing the Cables with GT3 style ones with metal cable ends and the entire sift console with an all ball bearing aluminum one. Also what about that RMS issue. Would you replace one that was not leaking while you were in there doing the clutch?
  10. Well, He has the car apart and the pressure plate is junk. He relates that the flywheel "is a little loose" but is neither for or against replacing it. I'm more on the replace it side. JFP what do you think?? Also should I replace the RMS while we are there. Mine is not leaking now but I understand there is an upgraded part for this engine. In the middle of a BIGGG snow storm. Skiing is going to be GREAT!!
  11. Nice diagram and Thanx! I did not hear from the Indy today. In looking at the diagram my guess is that the diaphragm spring broke. I'm the third owner of the car. The second owner tracked it for about 1000 miles and beat the poop out of it. I've already replaced wheel bearings and struts. I guess this is another manifestation of the abuse. I expected the clutch to die prematurely just not this way. Hopefully the flywheel is OK. Can you resurface these? I won't put a light weight flywheel on the car from all I've heard. While its apart I'm redoing all the engine and transmission mounts and replacing the shifter console and cables with GT3 style versions.
  12. Hi Britdave, Like JFP says, "you get what you pay for." Just a few tickets and insurance bumps will pay for the nicest detector. The police and troopers do profile us whether we like it or not. The Valentine is a great unit. It's big advantage was the Arrows. It let you know where the cops were. But it's patent ran out and Escort now has a unit with the arrows call the Max 360C. The big advantage of the Escort is that it blue tooths to your smart phone and with the Escort Live GPS ap the units talk to each other and the warnings are posted on your phone in advance! You get a phone mount from ProClip. I mount mine on the A pillar right next to the steering wheel so it is always within my sight. Escort also has the best suction mount. You mount the detector next to the rear view mirror and run the wire under the head liner down the A pillar to the fuse box. The detector uses very little power so you can grab power from any switched source and the detector will come on when you start the car. You also want a wired ProClip. That is wired to power that is always on that way your phone won't run out of power on a long trip and the phone will also charge when you leave the car.
  13. Hi Everyone and Happy New Year! While driving My C4S last week around town the clutch pedal stuck to the floor! I stomped on it and it finally came up. After that the clutch felt really light and when I depressed it I could feel the engine in the pedal. The clutch would engage but if I gave it too much gas it started slipping. The car has 49K miles on it now. I limped it over to my indy. It is supposed to come apart today. My guess is that the pressure plate broke. I have never heard of this happening before. Anyone have this happen??
  14. Hi Ocmacman, I just finished the brake job from hell on my 2006 C4S. That is the right hardline. It was bent back severely when the caliper was removed. The easiest way to hook it back up is to carefully bend it back to it's normal position with out crimping it. AND BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LITTLE MUSHROOM AT THE CALIPER END OF THE LINE!! It will be very hard to line up the fitting with the hole in the caliper. The best way to do this without damaging anything is to line up the caliper with the fitting by removing the pads and shims and taking the caliper off. Screw in the fitting hand tight reinstall the caliper, tighten the fitting then reinstall the shims and pads. Have fun. I drive mine in the winter. WHAT A MESS.
  15. Hi oscaac. You can do this with the caliper in place. Take the broke off part to the hardware store and get an Easy Out that the tip just fits in the center hole. You might also want to get a tap that matches the thread in the bleeder hole to freshen the threads once you have the remainder of the valve removed. Spray some WD40 into the hole then gently tap the easy out in and back out the remaining valve. You should bleed the caliper copiously after to flush any debris out using a pressure bleeder which you can get from Pelican parts. On the first bleed I remove the valves and spray them with a product called CorrosionX. This is a very high sulfer very heavy oil. Amazing stuff. I coat all my tools with it and they never rust.

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