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orthotist

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Everything posted by orthotist

  1. You also need to keep checking the overflow bottle and keep topping it off if it's low of course.
  2. I did solve my problem with the aftermarket cardon shaft bearing kit in the end. It's too expensive just to start replacing random parts on a Porsche so I would make sure you know for sure what it is before doing so. Well, at least if you live on a normal budget anyways.
  3. No problem but hahnmgh63 was right. It lasted for a few weeks the then the rubber broke apart. Thump thump thump under load and I'm sure you know what I had to do next. I ended up doing that DIY aftermarket kit $425 and that fixed everything but that sound sure was annoying. What a piece of crap part on Porsche's part though. I just repacked the bearing with grease as the directions stated. The bearing was fine itself. The Guibo disk was the hardest due to a little rust on the bushings.
  4. Cardon Shaft Bearing... spray it with WD40 white lithium grease and see what happens.
  5. So, the wife came home and said " you have got to do something about that noise". We test drove it again and I crawled around inside the cab of the pig while she drove. I had my ear on the console handle and it seem to resonate quit loud from that area and at the end towards the back seat area. When I got home, I bumped the air system to max height and went under with my WD40 white lithium grease, a mirror, a head light and started spraying the crap out of the Cardon Shaft Bearing, on both sides. The straw fit right down into the lip of the bearing along the shaft. The rubber around the shaft is all intact and no problems with that. Went for a test ride and sure enough! SOUND IS GONE! 60,000 miles--what a sh-ty design. I will spray as needed now until I want to spend the cash on the aftermarket DIY kit. Hope this helps somone else and thanks for all the ideas.
  6. I have had the bearing inspected and they report everything thing is fine. Question though! Is the rubber around the the bearing shaft the area that fails and then people just replace the bearing because of the thumping sound? I don't hear of many people replacing it becasue of the bearing sound though or them saying that replacing the bearing fixed the sound that we are describing.
  7. I have not yet! i do know it happens after 10-20 mins. of warming up. Greater the sound when the temp. is warmer outside.
  8. What ended up being the result of the replacement. I might have the same problem, just need to know if I should order the parts.
  9. This is what I think I am running into for one part number (955 624 773 02 and 995 624 773 01, fuel door actuator). Part number ending in 02 is for 2006 and up and the one ending in 01 is for 2005 and under. I don't know what came originally in the car because it was already replaced with the one ending in 02 and I again replaced it with the same. The electricals all tested fine to the actuator but the 02 part number doesn't function fine. It locks fine but when I unlock it, it slight retracts back towards to lock motion thus, keeping the fuel door locked slightly. This can definately happen. Keep in mind that all cars are built from a bill of materials (BOM). Porsche's customization approach takes it even farther, in tha each car has its own BOM, which can be highly customized. A fellow automotive engineer and Cayenne owner tipped me off to this. The Wiring harness for his car was completely customized, which is unusual and more likely to happen in lower volume vehicles. Higher volume vehicles (Ford, Chevy, etc) are likely to have the same parts stamped and aligned by year. Where as the Cayenne is a relatively low volume car next to a Camry, so you might find parts carry over more often. They key to YOUR car is your VIN decode and your BOM. Once I looked into it more, it seems that part # 95562477301 will also fit a 2006. I'm just going spend the $30.00, get it and try it out. All this info. has been helpful for sure.
  10. This is what I think I am running into for one part number (955 624 773 02 and 995 624 773 01, fuel door actuator). Part number ending in 02 is for 2006 and up and the one ending in 01 is for 2005 and under. I don't know what came originally in the car because it was already replaced with the one ending in 02 and I again replaced it with the same. The electricals all tested fine to the actuator but the 02 part number doesn't function fine. It locks fine but when I unlock it, it slight retracts back towards to lock motion thus, keeping the fuel door locked slightly.
  11. The manufacture date is 07/05: The problem is part numbers for me: It's listed as an 06 on title but I'm not so sure that some of the O.E. parts aren't from 2005.
  12. All good on the drive-train, It's been checked twice. Don't think it's air because the sound doesn't correlate with speed but i could be wrong.
  13. I just filled out the AutoTrader.com contact info. up on the left hand side and they contacted me back. Cold Air Intake Fabspeed Cat delete ECU Upgrade Flash or what ever they call it Should put you over "S" HP
  14. I have chatted with him or her via email when I was looking but I had a trade to get rid of first and I ended up buying a Black CTT at the local dealer. I think it's priced correctly, it is an "S". Mileage was more important for me because I can always spend $2000 and get as many horses. I paid $28,000 for mine with 53,000 miles.
  15. I think I bought the Hawk HPS: Less dust than O.E. with same stopping power that I can tell. Maybe stops a little quicker.
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