g00sestepper

I repaired mine using mesh and plastic welding (a soldering iron with an attachment). It looks far better now but didn't have as much damage on the outside, more of a clean break / crack. A couple of the lugs had also broken off on mine (can't see from your pic if you have any missing). To repair, I drilled holes into the lugs and also the panel and used lengths of paper clips as splints. I also used a glue and mesh on them too but be careful to get the correct glue as polyurethane from memory so most glues don't work. Overall, it looks perfect on the car now and no damage can be seen. However, If I pick one up cheap in the future then I will replace. They are a small fortune new! There is a good diy on the 996 TT showing removal and painting of the rocker panels. The only thing i found easier with this was to reinstall the panel the other way around (I.e. Front to back rather than back to front). Hope this helps.

Have you thought of doing something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-Steering-Wheel-Paddle-Conversion-996-Boxster-Tip-/281377441819?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item418367081b

Hi Yes, normal to go to 2nd. It does start off in 1st when using the warm up map when you first start up from cold. I drive in manual most of the time so shift to 1st myself but apparently if you floor it from standstill in auto (kick down) it will move to 1st for you. Hope this helps Rich

May I suggest hi-temperature anti-seize. Hi Loren Just curious, is this where Optimol HT comes in? Also, I am looking to get some optimol TA. Can you also suggest the 'suite' of loctites (numbers) and when / when not to use them? Thanks in advance

Thank you for your help with this Porschelibrarian. For anyone who requires workshop manuals / POSES etc then it is best to go through Porschelibrarian - fast, efficient, and inexpensive. As you can see from my original post, I have been scratching my head for some time with this, trying to get something which up to date. I have finally succeeded. I wish I had known about this sooner! Thanks Richard

Mmm, I don't think my PDFs span to that length! Illegal? I paid for it on emanuals online so assumed it would be both legitimate and comprehensive. Are electronic versions available in full for download rather than paper? Also, where is the best place to get them and how much do they cost? Thanks

Loren Please excuse my ignorance with this. The manual I got was an electronic download. I thought it might be easy for you to check given that you said that there were 99 updates and so may have a record of what the last update was called (which I would assume is therefore reflected within the contents table as this would have been updated correctly by you!). When you say 17 volumes, is there 1 volume per repair section, I.e. Group 5 - body being one and group 3 - transmission? Thanks

In relation to the supplements, please could you let me know what was added to the table of contents for the last supplement? This should tell me whether I have the most up to date manual..... Thanks in advance.

Thanks Loren. So what is the difference between Poses and the paper manuals? Also, where can I obtain updates from? Is this where TSBs come in?

Hi I am unsure whether this post is in the correct area / forum. I have a MY2004 996 C4S and over the past few months I have been trying to source proper factory manuals et al for it. So far, I have managed to get the following; 1) PET 7.3 plus updates (342/91). 2) Bentley manual (this seems to be a pictorial version of number 4 ish). 3) 101 projects for 996. 4) Factory manuals - I managed to get some PDFs online which show print dates of 1998/99 (quick google search). I also paid for some which were available on immediate download and they are exactly the same. This download also included POSES (is this just a more structured version of the PDFs above?)...... I am really confused re number 4 as surely there are updates to the manual? Is this a genuine manual? If so, is it just inserts that are printed off and manual updated? I am quite happy to pay for the real deal (whatever that looks like) as I would like the most up to date info. I have had another look on ebay and someone is selling a manual on cd where extracts of it are shown. I have tried to marry up the pages in the above mentioned where I can find some but they look newer in layout (more like the owners manual with those exclamation marks for notes etc) Please could someone kindly explain the bare bones of what is genuine and what isn't? Thank you for your help.

Stainless worm drives are an excellent alternative, and the sizes you mentioned should suit your needs. Your best bet for correct fitment is to take the old ones off and then go to the parts store to match them up with replacements. Clean all the fittings or surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad. No sealant of any kind is needed. You may also want to acquire a hose removal tool: This is a $5 (US) tool you can find anywhere, including Amazon.com, and will make getting the old hoses off a snap. Thanks for this John, I will do. A couple of my hoses are showing signs of wear I think..... There are some pink stains around the edges. They are squeezy and not brittle and seem ok..... As a rule of thumb, are they shot and need replacing if they leak at the edges? Or should they be removed and cleaned etc every so often to stop leaks? There are worm clips on some of these already but they don't look to be the best of quality..... In the meantime before I start and drain the coolant etc / pressure test, should I replace the worm clips to see if it makes a difference first? (just managed to pick up a used blue point pressure testing tool for peanuts on flea bay - was going to vacuum test too with a uview airlift). Also, this may be a stupid question but does the airlift work with a compressor (I.e. Shop air) that blows rather than sucks ..... And the fact that it blows past the t pipe draws the air out of system creating a vacuum? I have a small compressor for car tyres that goes to 250psi and runs off cig lighter socket. If the above is correct, would this do the job do you think? When I changed the oil a few weeks ago, the clips weren't on that tight (and the expansion tank was slowly going down prior to this date but hasn't since) so I tightened them up.... Could it be that they are cheapies and so have worked themselves loose? Cheers

Hi I am planning on completing a full overhaul of the waterworks on my 2004 c4s and I am busy accumulating all parts required (water pump, lt tstat, entire hose replacements). I have been looking into the hose clamp side of things and it seems like it could become quite an expensive job for them given how many looks to be required! However, I have come across JCS hi-grip SS clamps being sold by someone else and wrapped up in their packaging (2 for 99p / $1) which is far far less than anywhere else (nearly double that for 1). Has anyone come across these or used them before? They do have a British kite mark stamped on them so should be good. There are not many reviews online but of the ones I can see, they get a good write up. In terms of sizes, does anyone know what the most and least required sizes and how many approx are required for a full hose change? On the shelves (where they may have more in the storeroom), they currently have 12.5 to 19mm 19 to 25mm 28 to 40mm 38 to 53mm Are these sufficient, or would further sizes be required? Am I better just biting the bullet and paying for ABA Norma? I am unsure of the band width which from researching I understand can be problematic when trying to get water tight... What is the width I should be looking for? Also, what is the procedure once you have the hoses off? I have read some TSBs which seems to suggest cleaning the metal pipes with a scotch, dipping the new hose in water, and popping it on then tighten the clamp. I have read other places that suggest adhesives etc..... What is the best course of action from start to finish for this? Thanks in advance.

Laguna Seca..... how lucky are you! I remember playing Gran Turismo on my PS2 many moons ago...... We have nothing like that in the UK. Mine is Tip too. I plan to do all of what you mention above (i haven't even started yet, not even a pressure test). Please can you report back once complete / any learns and helps during installation? cheers

Hi Following this thread since the start..... i have a leak in a couple of places (water pump, front passenger wheel well (RHD car), and elbow hose near pump). I haven't got the car up properly yet to have a look but plan to install new pump, LNtstat and hoses etc. Some very good suggestions on this thread which i will definitely take up, ask questions and report back once i have all parts above to start the job. Just in relation to the LN thermostat, i did read the following on the website when ordering; 'Even if you have cleaned out your radiators, please be advised, some late-model cars do not report actual coolant temperature, so some users will not see any visible change in operating temperature when fitted with a 160F low temperature thermostat.' I must admit, if i hadn't seen this, when i eventually fit it and it runs at what appears to be the same temp, i would have felt like i had been taken for a ride / something else wrong!! I continually have my eye on the temp and oil gauges and it is almost at the compulsive stage! I need to let go. What will be will be! Thanks Rich

Thanks John, I will let him know. I wouldn't use one but each to their own I suppose. On the topic of oil changes, I have the LN spin on on order where I understand that the filter has to be changed every 6k as it is smaller. I do plan to change the oil every 6k anyway so not an issue. My car has a full Opc service history and I plan to continue this. 1. Will they service it with this on? Do I just supply the filter when I take it in and make them aware of it? 2. I would like to continue using m1 0w40 and I have noticed on a service receipt that they used Castrol long life 0w40 last time. Due to this, can I also supply the oil with the filter? As detailed at the start of this thread, I can get it for about 25% of the price of what they charge so would also save me quite a bit of cash. 3. Upon perusing my service book, I have noticed that some of the stamps are missing, not for the actual services but for airbag check and brake fluid change (although the receipts and checklists confirm it has been done). Will they have a record of this and stamp my book accordingly (different Opc)? As you may be able to tell, I am totally and utterly anal, and even more so in relation to my car. I therefore apologise for going thread through needle.