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Schnell Gelb

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Schnell Gelb last won the day on July 25

Schnell Gelb had the most liked content!

About Schnell Gelb

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  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S
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  1. Engine stops running after 15 minues

    This is actually a Catalytic Converter fault usually - not muffler/exhaust pipe. The 'brick' melts &/or gets plugged with carbon.
  2. Cranks but no start -Misfire

    A small improvement to such a tool(I have the one Ahsai suggests) is to replace the cone with a barbed fitting that will thread into the spark plug hole. Just don't overtighten it or you'll have an extraction/removal problem.This makes solo testing possible. Better is to attach it to an extension tube that threads into the spark plug hole at one end and has a standard Amflo compressed air fitting at the other end. Innovative Products 7881 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Innovative-Products-of-America-7881-Compression-Test-Extension/352142872859?epid=658659526&hash=item51fd59d11b:g:A6QAAOSwXCNZlKvv Even better is a kit like this and adapt it. But be sure you get the extension tube, not just a hose. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Compression-Gauge-Tester-10mm-12mm-14mm-18mm-threads-with-extension-tube/352187634741?hash=item520004d435:g:uHUAAOSwTyZZeWon Then you can also do Leakdown and compression tests solo also.
  3. It may help others to give a more competent opinion than mine if you : Look at the dwg in the FSM of the timing procedure. It is common(& O.K.) that the camshaft notch is not perfectly horizontal. Unfortunately , this is a bit vague. So maybe to help the discussion ,re-time the cams so the notch is perfectly horizontal and note how many CRANKshaft degrees it is 'off' . Assuming the notch on Bank 1 is slightly up(&outward) - just like the FSM dwg., I would continue and run the engine.Then asses with Durametric, re-asses after 100 miles and recheck the timing .
  4. Thant is based on my experience and reports from others. I am sure it would be nice to have the pretensioners but they are very expensive. Be prepared for maybe having to adjust the valve timing after about 1000 miles - using the 4 bolts on the EX cam behind the scavenge pump
  5. There is some confusion in related Threads about the significance of the foam loss in some climates. The suggestion is that the foam loss will NOT affect the a/c performance.I have no personal data for this. It is worth investigating because it is a tedious and time consuming job. BTW the best replacement for the foam is 3M Flue Tape fire-proof/high temperature tape.It is frequently cited in the "foam coming out of my vents" Threads. Clever hack version: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/67109-small-foam-pieces-blowing-vents-2.html
  6. AOS coolant line leaks

    If you are in a mild climate ,the coolant hoses to the AOS are redundant. Some just disconnect and plug them. Search for details and comments.
  7. Tool for Spark Plug Tube extraction Suggest you use the long bolt+ specific washer diy tool. Just google this subject and add "Health Service" he was a Forum member who wrote up some specs and posted photos.The Transom plug tool does not work if the seals are swollen/tight.
  8. Do the click test and Ohm test on the solenoid before you hunt for a spring ?
  9. No part available Best to find someone with a 'dead' used part and use their spring ? Did you loose the spring or is it defective? A defective spring is extreeeemly unlikely as a cause of 1341
  10. My experience is to be patient and persistent.Keep driving it.Try each of the Drive Cycle variations several times and keep checking your progress. I set one of 3 remaining stubborn Ready Status "Fail" monitors by doing a cold start+ idle at 2900 r.p.m. while stationary for 90+seconds. That is the period when the SAI pump runs. I suspect(stress the uncertainty ) that it set because at almost 3k rpm there was much more air+fuel flow than if you just drive off gently. Who knows? It worked(on one Monitor) for me. Loren mentioned something useful (if I understood correctly) - don't keep resetting the CEL .That just sets you back to the beginning in the entire process. Best to keep working on it sequentially - Set one monitor and them focus on to the next. The problem with that logical but pathetically blithe recommendation is I still do not know which specific parts(or combo of parts) of which drive cycle sets which monitors. Once you have done the correct 'things', it may take another 2-4 drives to clear the CEL.Don't cancel it with your Code Reader. Iff you are using Durametric - check for updates,No they don't alert you of updates - you have to check yourself or read Renntech frequently ! I hope this helps get you through Smog with less frustration folks.
  11. Yes, but who knew? Just thought it may help Durametric get a free plug on Renntech if they announced such useful news here first ? Certainly useful for their customers. It is also reassuring that they are still supporting their product. And for those who are thinking : Wow,I'll buy a Durametric knock-off from Asia via Fleabay and then just download the latest version of the software from Durametric to replace the junkware that comes on the k-o version.Nope-won't work. Hope this helps
  12. There is a very recent update. I used it today -- works great.Don't struggle with the old versions . Pity Durametric does not announce their updates here since we keep plugging for them !
  13. There is a very recent update. I used it today -- works great.Don't struggle with the old versions . Pity Durametric does not announce their updates here since we keep plugging for them !
  14. In those 2 sentences you have proof of the value of subscribing to Renntech. Any other Porsche Forum would have pages of banter and dickering before you would find such a gem - if at all. I made a mistake installing my first RMS and confessed my sins here. I had to redo using an improved home-brew tool.Fortunately that was before I installed the trans. Set at the correct depth,the new seal does not leak a drop. I am grateful to Renntech Forum members who took the time to specify the different depth for the different seal.
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