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Schnell Gelb

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Schnell Gelb last won the day on May 4

Schnell Gelb had the most liked content!

About Schnell Gelb

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    Contributing Member

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  • From
    Los Angeles
  • Porsche Club
    Other
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S
    Jag XKE
    Miata SE
    Dodge Cummins turbo-diesel
  • Former cars
    Lancia Flavia
    Lancia Fulvia
    Jaguar XJR

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  1. Have you tried squirting electrical Contact Cleaner on the switch? Then operate the E-Brake vigorously many times to spread the cleaner fluid.. It may just be sticky ? The Parking Brake Warning Light will 'tell' you if you have fixed it. If not ,try removing the Top relay ,clean the pins ,tap it (loose contacts inside?) and replace: file:///C:/Users/hp/AppData/Local/Temp/micro_switch_troubleshooting.pdf Test the 2 fuses with a DMM - not just visually. D3 = motor B6=Module/relay While you are probably waiting for the upgraded Parking Brake microswitch (ends in 02, not 01 & is black not white!) to arrive from Sunset Porsche : Be aware that details of the top transmission system changed between the early/late Boxster.The later Boxsters are a bit easier. 1.Check the bolts on the push rods for tightness .The 2-piece arms have serrated mating surfaces. If they slip because the bolt is loose, you will destroy the serrations and have great difficulty keeping the two pieces in the correct adjustment. 2. Measure the height/angle of the boomerang on the gearbox from any convenient reference point and compare to the opposite side.They should be exactly (+/- 1/8th") the same. They can be adjusted using a very low torque+slow speed setting on a cordless drill(See Pelican DIY) You can make your own driver to adjust the 'timing' of the gearbox. It is 4mm square. Note the "timing marks on the gearbox case. Measure the distance from the ball for the cam cover to a reference point with the top fully closed and fully open. If you fail to do this accurately with many different measurements/refences, you will destroy the top/mechanism/both when you operate it after Item 3. below. The motor is powerful enough to tear fabric,bust bolts and rails with ease. See Pelican diy for gory & expensive details. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/BODY_Convertible_Top_Gear_Replacement/BODY_Convertible_Top_Gear_Replacement.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair.htm 3. Consider dismantling and greasing the 2 gearboxes.You will likely find a woeful lack of grease inside. BUT only dismantle one side at a time . Photograph ,mark and reference every little part. There are invisible shim washers, concealed alignment points and all manner of potential pitfalls. If you fail to do this, you may get very little help from the Internet or the FSM.You'll need to do this if the large ,white plastic gear has broken.Here is a silly & incomplete video showing how. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hBBhsf5xeM If you need a troubleshooting guide- find Posts by Maurice (1schoir)- he seems to be the unchallenged champion of the electrical part of this system. Yes, the mechanism can be converted to entirely manual or a manual top and power clamshell. Yes, there is a hack to bypass the 'Parking Brake must be on 1 click' obstacle and the you must not be driving more than walking pace limit. It involves bending pin 15 and/or 18 on the double relay that controls the top. There is also a Youtube tutorial for using 2 jumpers in an Emergency to get the top up .It has a useful explanation of some of the many pins on the relay. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eWY4_fSZT4
  2. While you are in there - check for deteriorated fittings and valves. Some of these cause the EVAP codes .
  3. Listen carefully as close as you can get to each rear wheel. Which is worse? With the car up on a lift, use a listening device - preferably a Steelman Engine Ear to listen to the worst side. Move all along the crankcase from close to the crankshaft all the way to the Camshaft cover. Do this for each cylinder on that Bank.Which is worst and where on that cylinder is the noise the worst ? Listn ,not just for volume but for additional little extra rattles ,thuds,and knocking .Be evry methodical.Make notes on a diagram showing each cylinder. This way we can give you a better diagnosis. Consider getting a UOA from Blackstone,Caterpillar or alternatives. It may be a noise you can just live with for many thousands of miles with good lubrication and careful monitoring ,so don't despair. But do gather great data !
  4. The hairdryer+ liquid soap technique works. Try laying on a blanket over the trunk with the clamshell jammed vertical.
  5. Couple of things to consider 1. Oxygen sensors are not expensive and easy to replace - do ll 4. 2. This makes subsequent diagnosis easier because it eliminates the O2 sensors - but not their wiring, Check the plugs, tubes+sels and coil packs at the same time ?
  6. To diagnose, rather than keyboard-speculate we need Durametric/scanner info. The easy ,first observation would be to watch a graph of the Pre and Post cat O2 sensors.They may show poor performance but this can be due to vacuum leaks. I mention this so you do not needlessly fit 4 new O2 sensors.
  7. Agreed. Just waiting on the Part. On another Forum they are testing a hack for the SAI system. http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/66560-any-interest-sai-delete-circuit-2.html#post537641
  8. SAI Tests. I tested the entire test system with a Vacuum pump+ gauge .Made some test leads for the electric change over valve. Removed the Alternator and the flex ducts between the Intake manifolds for better access. Finally found the source of the leak - same as Ahsai's old problem - the Vacuum Reservoir. To get a test vacuum hose fitted to the reservoir requires the dexterity of a keyboard player with disposable flesh on his hands. I whine because you must have a 101% perfect connection when testing the Reservoir. You do not want a false negative because you had a leaky hose connection ! Extract it from the space created by removing the Alternator - but use a magnetic screwdriver and pick up to avoid loosing the screw on the side of the Vac Reservoir. The definitive test in my case was to connect the suspect Reservoir to a source of slightly compressed air, invert the reservoir and partially fill the hollow base with water. Bubbles ! Lots of bubbles. From the seam where the base was 'glued' in. I hope this helps others confrm the have found not just one but all the vac leaks ! Tempting to save some time by just filling it with epoxy . But I'll leave that experiment to others. In theory you slather epoxy on, connect to vacuum and it sucks the epoxy into the cracks- maybe. For less than $30 ,I'll get a new one. The interesting question is why didn't the Pre-cat O2 sensors show a failing SAI system per Ahsai's test above? At that stage I only had "Not Ready".There was no CEL,no codes. Once the codes popped up that indicated that the vac reservoir leak had deteriorated to the point where it totally failed to operate. Before then it was partially operating with a small amount of vacuum that immediately dissipated when another vacuum consumer was operated? Speculation but likely.
  9. Thank you for Posting all the details of this fix. Particularly mentioning that the offending seat belt must have the buckle fastened. I found that the latest Durametric update fixed other diagnostic bugs also.
  10. Don't forget to clean all the leaves and debris from the radiators. Bumper off !
  11. No just a local pal who has now been introduced to the virtues of JGDT-40
  12. I described the whole story in another Thread. The short version is the owner put Bardahl No Smoke and some other snake oil in his oil to 'fix' a red 'Low Oil Pressure" Warning Light. I did an oil pressure test and dropped the filter and pan. Cut the filter & voila. Correct oil+new filter fixed it !
  13. Here is a photo of the collapsed filter pleats on a Napa 1042
  14. Interesting point about the flow capacity being 2-3 times greater than conventional filters. It can do no harm ..? Unless they just double the pore diameter ! The recommendation on the LN site is: " We use the Napa Gold 1042 or Platinum 1042 " . It would be interesting to read what LN say about the flow capacity issue. I'm not suggesting there is a problem with LN's recommendation but the incremental cost is small, so why not ? Perhaps LN would say that if a paper-element filter collapses because the oil was too viscous, no higher-flow filter would behave differently. The problems are different. If the problem was dirty oil and half the pores in either filter were blocked - yes, the highr flow filter has an advantage. Moral of the speculation- use the correct grade of oil w/o snake oil additives ? http://lnengineering.com/products/other-watercooled-stuff/spin-on-oil-filter-adapter-for-my97-08-boxster-cayman-911.html Some smart people also mention the synthetic media upgrade here years ago (Napa/Wix 51042XP): Here is a cross reference site for the geeks: http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/ http://wixfilters.com/Lookup/InterchangeMultiSearch.aspx?q=51042XP&o=me
  15. It is both easy and inexpensive to connect Harbor Freight Oil pressure Tester and get a reliable reading.It connects to the port used by the Oil Pressure Sender on the top of Bank1 so is easy to access. I recently did this and the short version is that when I cut open the aftermarket spin-on oil filter ,the pleats had collapsed !