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Schnell Gelb

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About Schnell Gelb

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    Los Angeles
  • Porsche Club
    Other
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S
    Jag XKE
    Miata SE
    Dodge Cummins turbo-diesel
  • Former cars
    Lancia Flavia
    Lancia Fulvia
    Jaguar XJR

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  1. Yes.Thank you for the gentle reminder to be systematic. I'll postpone the dreaded dismantling and do that .Logically your hint makes great sense. I have a Noid light that will fit into one of the many test harnesses I made because the Noid has EV1 type pins.
  2. The test with the MOM switch+external 12v power source direct to the solenoid was a failure. Repeated pulsing of the MOM switch produced no response on the trace from Durametric Actual Values. I am reluctant to operate the MOM switch for more than a few seconds in case the 12v overheats the solenoid. It is intended to operate at 10.5v (iirc a post by Ahsai), not 13v from a motorcycle battery. The only new data point is that immediately after one restart in the MOM-switch tests , The Deviation on Bank 1 was much reduced - just 9 degrees instead of the 'usual' 14.9 degrees. When I operated the MOM switch , Deviation jumped back to 14.9 deg. & remained(as usual) rock steady. It seems unavoidable to remove the camshaft cover for Bank 1 and inspect. That is a very tedious task that I can enjoy over the weekend and report back. I try to predict the surprise that will be revealed in such cases because it is a good (or humbling) test of your understanding of an issue. I cheated by researching many other posts on the "1341" but none had a hint of what this specific issue is. The root cause is probably engine assembly error ! To recap , there are 2 related issues on Bank 1 only - Bank 2 is perfect on this just rebuilt engine: 1. Deviation of 14.9 degrees at idle 2. No change in Actual Values of Camshaft advance with increasing r.p.m. or Activations/prompts from Durametric or an external power source. For those following this in future, this is the stage to order the oddball left hand threaded studs and nuts to compress the Actuator for my 2001 S. Older cars had right hand thread. Also prepare your 'while you are in there' list - spark plug tubes,oil pump seal,coils(?) ,plugs. And if you are working on Bank 1 - the AOS and it's corrugated tube. Mine are all new.
  3. The difficulty in refueling is a common problem caused by possibly a vent valve malfunction. Suggest you search for the diy for that.Pelican have one iirc.
  4. Thank you both. I'll get to work this evening with more tests and report back. If the fault was the Crankshaft Position Sensor, that would produce problem on both Banks not just Bank 1 ? Unless it was a wiring problem. The DME theory - that 'should'? also cause the same problem on both Banks? Unless it was a wiring problem. An interesting test - I have a 12v source to connect direct to Bank 1 solenoid.It has a MOM switch & fuse on the test harness that I can operate and watch the Durametric trace. That may indicate I have a lazy/sticky actuator? The Bank 1 solenoid reads 13 ohms but produces no "click" from an external 12v source like Bank 2. I am trying to be thorough and systematic with the tests because once I start dismantling things - it is too late for some of these tests. This time I'll let the engine warm up at idle ,no revving to 3000 rpm to activate the cam advance. That should give a better observation of the peculiar camshaft deviation readings on Bank 1. Then I'll stop the engine and connect up the MOM switch harness and observe the trace for Bank 1 Actual Angle. I speculate it will be a small saw tooth profile as the solenoid struggles to move a sticky/plugged/leaking Variocam actuator. All idle speculation without more diagnostics.More later today I hope.
  5. I did the test that JFP suggested above and Bank 1 looks perfect.So why is there a cam deviation at idle of 14.9 degrees? Surely that would be visible? Fortunately I kept lots of notes and diagrams from when I rebuilt the engine so I was able to compare the orientation and position of the 1/2 moon and notch now to my previous records. I tested the positions of the Exhaust cam notches and the Inlet notch over 4 successive rotations to make sure. For anyone trying this with the engine in the car - you need a rack and very good inspection lights.It is very obstructed unless you take off other parts(exhaust for example). Tomorrow I'll fit new green plugs and do the electrical tests that Ahsai suggested. Then we'll have some useful data to work on. The suspects are : 1. Variocam actuator +/- solenoid - very expensive and requires major ,awkward dismantling. - but at least it can be done without removing the engine :-). 2. Wiring harness to Bank 1 ( I did some clumsy electrical work on the SAI harness and perhaps I damaged nearby wiring). 3. Camshaft position sensor, Bank 1. I have not read that these fail so this seems unlikely'.Is it possible to make a mistake assembling the cam position sensor ? The combination of Code 1341, no cam advance but a huge cam deviation (14.9 degrees)on Bank 1 is a weird combo of symptoms.Bank 2 is perfect per Durametric. Thanks for any suggestions as always.
  6. Thanks Ahsai. I'll do the test work this afternoon .So many details of life seem to interfere with Porsche repair time :-).
  7. Thanks JFP. Here is a link to help others see what we are referring to on a 5 chain M96.It is a Thread started by Insite on camshaft allocation with excellent photos and descriptions: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/26418-diy-setting-cam-timing-m96.html This is one of several YouTube videos showing the work & tools that may be required: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE_X27JSTyE
  8. Duncan, Thank you for your suggestion. I remember your epic thread with Imo in Canada and the burnt transistor in the DME. He even located and fitted a replacement transistor iirc. I have not completed the exact test you propose, so thank you for the suggestion. I did make a special harness with a modified EV1 connector . It fits on the connector for the solenoid . This is hardwired to a dedicated pair of leads to a cheap MultiMeter. With the MM set at 20vdc ,Bank 1 never shows any voltage on the MM, regardless of engine speed or coolant temperature.The same test on Bank 2 shows 10v when the camshaft timing advance kicks in. The custom harness is long enough to reach into the cab so it is easy to read and idiot-proof. But I'll certainly try your test with the 3W bulb to simulate a resistance. In previous Threads you explained an external 12v supply test.This makes the Bank 2 solenoid click. Bank 1(with the suspect timing 15 deg off) is silent. I made a dedicated harness for that test also. I made a 3rd test harness to go from the solenoid connector on one Bank ,across the engine directly to the solenoid on the other Bank. I try that also. As you suggest , I am trying to eliminate DME and wiring problems by substitutions. JFP's test suggestion will be embarrassing if it confirms I got the timing perfect on one Bank and failed on the other. Regardless, I'll confess so others can learn from this. Thank you both for your helpful suggestions.
  9. Thanks JFP That is a great start. Btw it s a 2001 S - so a 5 chain. So I need to look for 1 slot or 2 ,please? I fixed the +/- 6 deg mistake in my Post.Thanks.
  10. I need some advice on what further tests to do before I start disassembling the camshaft. The code is "1341 = Camshaft adjustment Bank 1 below limit value." But I think this is misleading. Normally , this would be just a failed Solenoid or Variocam actuator. Btw ,these comments apply equally to a Bank 2 fault. But if you look at the Durametric data below ,there is a hint of a cheaper but much more stupid error. I recently rebuilt the engine. It runs beautifully. But has only run a few hours because I can't get rid of the 11341 fault code to get a Smog Test. The Actual Values alone are clear but not when you look at the Deviation, not so much. All values are with a warmed up engine(fans kicked in several times) 1, Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 1, 0.3 to 0.8 deg. At 3000 rpm only 2 degrees ! Bank 1 solenoid measures 13 ohms(perfect) but will not activate with Durametric , nor with the Ahsai 12v battery test. 2. Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 2, 0.02- 0.2 deg . At 3000 rpm 20 degrees - perfect. Bank 2 solenoid can be activated by Durametric or by the external 12v source. 3, Deviation Bank 1 at idle is 14.9 deg and stable - it should be +/- 6 deg ! 4. Deviation Bank 2 at idle is zero and stable- 0.00 ,nada . Please check my logic/knowledge here because I need help. My theory is that I must have failed to time Bank 1 correctly. It is so far out that the Camshaft Advance will not activate ? The stable deviation is because of new chains,IMSB , chain rail pads and tensioners. So I need to re-time Bank 1. If it seems to be perfectly timed - look for a Camshaft Position Sensor problem ? I'll bench test Bank 1 Actuator to see if it has a firm 1/16" 'jump' .If it is doubtful I'll replace it because of the time involved. Fortunately I have the cam tools and Insite's helpful classic post on timing the M96. Before I start dismantling , what else to test? Maybe connect between the Bank 2 harness and Bank 1 to try to activate the camshaft advance (Jake Raby suggested this in a related Thread) I get no reading on the Multimeter when I connect to the Bank 1 harness but do get the correct voltage (10V) on Bank 2 . No, I did not connect to chassis ground(thanks Ahsai!) This is an interesting example of needing to use 2 different(but related) readings from Durametric to make an accurate(??) diagnosis. If I had just fitted a new Actuator +solenoid($1000 ! ) ,the basic fault may still be present.And I would have to repeat all that dismantling again ! So thanks for any suggestions of more diagnostic tests.
  11. Thanks Mike, As I suggested previously " Just buy from Sunset ! " Just phone them .Give the VIN & No problems. The difficulties began with Interchange/crossover numbers.Same story with Heat Exchanger seals and O2 sensors.
  12. For what I spent on this one simple issue I could have bought at full retail from the local Porsche dealer several times over ! And not to mention the time . Hopefully others will benefit from my experience and measurements- if the tubes are under-size and out of round there is no seal that will work ! Utterly useless parts .
  13. I now have 3 sets of spark plug tubes and seals. So I measured them all carefully to identify the cause of the leakage. The leaking tube+seal combo is under-size and out of round at the inner end. The groove in the leaking tubes measured 26.45mm at the inner end - over 0.5mm smaller than the OEM item.Obviously this measurement varies according to the location in the groove you choose because it is out of round ! It is somewhat oval in cross section and fits into a perfectly round hole in the camshaft cover! No amount of seal swapping could have corrected these 2 defects at the inner end of the leaking aftermarket spark plug tubes. At the outer end, the groove was oversized by an even larger amount. No wonder I had a hard time removing the tubes ! Just buy from Sunset !
  14. " Also found the temp sensor had been taken out of its holder on the right side of the intake. " There may have been a reason for that . In doing so, it ensured the engine compartment cooling/purge air fan came on at a lower temperature and stayed on for longer. I am not recommending this but have read that it is a popular hack/mod with some others. The temperatures under there are so high during heat soak, I presume that accelerates the degradation of some plastics that bedevils the older M96. And there are a lot of inaccessible ,crucial plastic parts under there as you've recently discovered!
  15. Ah yes, Battery terminal spreaders.