Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must login to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Schnell Gelb

Contributing Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Schnell Gelb last won the day on April 23

Schnell Gelb had the most liked content!

About Schnell Gelb

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Fields

  • From
    Los Angeles
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S
    Jag XKE
    Miata SE
    Dodge Cummins turbo-diesel
  • Former cars
    Lancia Flavia
    Lancia Fulvia
    Jaguar XJR

Recent Profile Visitors

299 profile views
  1. Not really. And it is easy to get a reliable diagnosis. Buy a $30, S.O.C. & S.O.H. Battery Tester. Easier,cheaper and more reliable than "toaster-style" load testers and cheaper than the carbon pile alternative. Next ,get a battery charger that has an automatic "Pulse" or reconditioning function to remediate the sulphation. If you get the type Porsche uses(but without their sticker) it can be used as an over-winter maintainer also. CTek MUS 4.3.
  2. John , But what bent the tooth ? Maybe you have a Byron situation?
  3. I feel both foolish and fortunate. The loss of the spring was foolish but the rescue was fortunate. For Renntech users in future there is a hidden benefit to this tedious saga. I was forced to test every aspect of the entire system and offer the results for scrutiny by experts here. That rigor produced a cheap method for fabricating the many test harnesses with customized connectors . These harnesses are based on recommendations in other Threads of what ohms/volts to measure where and in what circumstances and with what precautions. The short version is that these harnesses provided results that confirmed that the Bank 1 Solenoid(part # 99660590100 ), the DME, the wiring & connectors were perfect. By logical elimination ,this left the Bank 1 Tensioning Element a.k.a. Variocam Actuator - part # 99610505158 - number 7 here -as defective. Yes, it is $1000 ! The labor to get to it and replace it would be more. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=103-10 This was indeed proved to be the correct diagnosis but only when I dismantled the Actuator. The missing spring was discovered by accident (see Posts of April 2)and remedied by the generosity of a fellow Forum member. The other benefit for Renntech-ers who read this in future is the questions about the orientation of small parts. I had not seen those answers anywhere else. Part of the significance of those answers is that even with a functional Actuator if you accidentally re-orient some parts , you will get the 1341 code when you reassemble and retest- that is a major re-do - even assuming you would know what to look for - and you would not unless you read this Thread - to The End.
  4. Just to conclude the saga. The spring generously donated by Porschetech3 works well. The Vatiocam advance works perfectly to spec. It worked within minutes of starting. I was a bit surprised because the oil pump has a lot of cavities and oilways to fill when one Bank has been dismantled and has been draining& dripping for a few weeks. Durametric says the engine has zero Deviation - I assume because of the new chains and pads on both Banks. I'll post Actual Values when the assembly has had chance to 'settle'. I may just tweak the static timing so both Banks 'match' their Actual Values at idle speed when warm. That will be an interesting & perhaps futile exercise but the engine is so smooth (balanced both ends of rods and pistons ) that is tempting to see if even greater refinement can be achieved. I am most grateful to all who helped me through this project. Thank you all. Actual Values after 'settling" No tweaking of the Static Timing required. But i had to be patient and let the engine get up to temperature.By then I presume the oilways had purged any air/assembly grease. The Actual Values fluctuate over a narrow range & are not exactly the same on both Banks. May be insignificant(?) but Bank 1 range 'settled' to +0.2 to +0.6 Crk deg. Initially it had been negative 7 ! Bank 2 is slightly negative - 0.2 to -0.5 Crk deg. at idle. The Cam advance just exceeds 20 Crk deg for both Banks over 3000rpm with a warm engine. Now I can replace the smashed windshield Then to try to fix all the fickle Readiness monitors that currently all show "FAIL". I am dreading the Drive Cycle because although I have Reg &Insurance & paid Tags, I have no Smog Cert - so no current "Sticker" -CHIP bait to add to the complications .
  5. Jay , Thank you for Posting the Clip-Trans Cable # 986-424-411-00 .2 clips required. Many of us hack diy mechanics have been using ugly zip ties on very expensively rebuilt power trains . RND or Sunset would also have it. Here is a link to a larger photo of the clip: http://www.autoatlanta.com/results.php?partnumber2=986 424 411 00 I suspect that even with new clips, fitting zip ties at the same time is a good idea?
  6. Thank you Porschetech3. The devil is in the details. We'll never know how many M96 engines have their pads upside down. If you look carefully at the Actuator for Bank 1 it has a single large oil port at one end only .This 'feeds' the pad with the 'O' ring and 2 oil ports. See Post #6 for photos and details here. Note the photo is of Bank 2, not Bank 1 http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/60995-vario-cam-adjuster-plunger-question-re-p1324-code.html
  7. The idea of using chilled grease to (maybe) centralize the spring in the bore was too much of a haphazard solution. So I dismantled everything again. I am really slick at this now ! I figured out the solution to aligning the spring in the bore of the Actuator. Use a brass guide-rod through the oilway hole at the bottom of the Actuator bore to centralize the spring. Gently push the shuttle valve into the bore while retracting the brass rod. Keep the point on the brass rod firmly engaged in the central counterbore in the leading face of the shuttle valve. With the third hand that JFP suggests, attach the Solenoid. Remove brass rod. Practice makes perfect - eventually ?
  8. Thanks for the clarification about the Bank 1 & 2 Actuators having different shuttle valves.I have never seen this discussed. The photos in this link are for Bank 2. http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/60995-vario-cam-adjuster-plunger-question-re-p1324-code.html So for Bank 1, the pads would be reversed .Meaning the pad with no holes would be next to the Bank 1 Solenoid. A photo of the Actuator plus Solenoid for Bank 1 from the same perspective would show no oil holes in the pad next to the Solenoid. This makes sense because there is an oil feed in the Actuator clearly visible to supply the pad with the oil holes + 'O' ring. FSM Section 15-19 has a diagram showing this. Thanks.
  9. The Porschetech 3 spring arrived in the mail this afternoon. It works ! THANK YOU Skip. Here are the specs of the 2001 Boxster S Variocam Actuator spring I promised. Note the earlier Boxsters have a different shuttle valve/barbell-like piston so may have(??) a different spring also. # of coils - 8 Diameter - 5mm Free length - 15mm wire diameter approx 0.5mm The bore that the spring fits into is 10mm The shuttle valve has a relief machined into the end to locate the spring .It is 6mm. Now ,with the cams and actuator fitted ,how to fit the spring and center it in the bore? Gravity is tending to have the spring offset to the bottom of the bore. This would produce a different Variocam response on Bank 1 to Bank 2 . Lesson - fit the spring to the Actuator on the bench in ideal(vertical) conditions. Then allocate the camshafts and fit the Actuator.Then fit to the cylinder head. In theory you could pack the bore and the spring with that very sticky grease and hope ? I fitted the solenoid and tested it with 12v + the MOM switched test lead. For the first time it clicked. You could also hear the 'squelching' of oil out of the ports in the Actuator.You can feel the click if you hold the solenoid with your finger tips while operating the switch on the test leads. One detail with this job is the orientation of the 2 pads on the Actuator. The pads are different . One pad has 2 oil ports in it and a green 'O' ring on the underside of it. The other pad has neither the oil ports ,nor the 'O' ring . Each pad will fit on the top or the bottom of the actuator ! So which pad goes where?? Very few Instructions mention this. AFAIK , the pad with the oil ports always(for Bank 1 or 2) should be fitted adjacent to the solenoid . If this is incorrect Please mention it here ! Thank you for the spring Porschetech3 !
  10. It would help us advise you if you mentioned the skill level(with M96) of whoever will do the work. I mention this because it seems probable that you will need a replacement engine. That is a task requiring some significant equipment, skill, time and money.Will you do all the work or your Indie? Ahsai's suggestion of removing the Bank1 scavenge pump seems the best initial course of action because the seemingly failed chain is easily exposed by removing just 4 bolts that retain the pump.You should see it on the Ex cam sprocket An alternative would be to remove (catch oil !!) the chain tensioner nearby -32mm size. Stick your finger in the hole to feel for the floppy/broken chain. The potential problem with a broken chain is the very hard debris of the broken chain pieces & of the thrashing chain on related plastic and aluminum parts. Finding all of that abrasive/clogging debris will be difficult even with a full dismantling of every part of the engine. If you have a full flow filter(LN?) that may help. Usually the cost of such work far exceeds the cost of a good used engine. For options, you could try L.A. Dismantlers for a used 3.2 , Woody (itsnotaNova on 986 Forum) or Fleabay ,maybe Craig's. Good Luck with your sad project .I am just recovering from a similar one.
  11. One ugly detail with this job is the orientation of the 2 pads on the Actuator. The pads are different as shown above. One pad has 2 oil ports in it and a green 'O' ring on the underside of it. The other pad has neither the oil ports ,nor the 'O' ring . Each pad will fit on the top or the bottom of the actuator ! So which pad goes where?? Very few Instructions mention this. AFAIK , the pad with the oil ports always(for Bank 1 or 2) should be fitted adjacent to the solenoid(INCORRECT ! see below) as pictured at the beginning of this thread. If this is incorrect Please mention it here !
  12. Porschetech3 is wise to be leery of diy rebuilds. Particularly very recently rebuilt, no miles.I just did one. I made only 1 (so far) mistake. But it was potentially mortal.I lost one tiny spring.I did not realize it had dropped out. Why? Because there is nothing in the FSM that shows the bowels of a Variocam Actuator. Now Renntech has that photo and a detail write up on all the tests to identify that specific fault. In the FSM the same diagnosis tells you to buy a $1000 Actuator to fix it. And indeed ,that would fix the problem and you may never realize all you needed was a little spring. That alone is worth contributing to Renntech for ? Even better, when I get Porschetech3's spring ,I'll try to spec and source it so any Renntech Contributing Member can buy a replacement for pennies. Spare M96 engines - per the O.P. - some of us have a problem with collecting M96 engines and should confess ? I have a spare 6 speed gearbox and have been hunting for another rebuildable 3.2 S for several years. Some of us have several stashed in our basement as an investment.....you know who you are :-).
  13. Welcome to RennTech an oasis of technical brilliance and courtesy .I 'll try to stay true to that here :-). Without Durametric readings to 'triangulate ' other factors in the 1341 code, we would be throwing out lots of futile suggestions. For example, what are the "Actual & Deviation angles", does the Variocam respond to a Durametric prompt ? To start with a logical diagnosis you could check the connections and do the 13 ohm and 9v click test mentioned above. Much depends on your skill level, equipment and FSM resources. Maybe better to find the best Indie in Las Vegas instead ? I am writing a full diy diagnosis for P1341 and related codes .It has many wiring harnesses for tests and runs to over 2000 words. I am not done yet. Probably more than the average diy enthusiast wants to get involved with ?
  14. The generic version(+upgraded) of the "Porsche" maintainer has been mentioned by JFP and others many times. It is the Cteck MUS 4.3. No 100% Porsche tax. Based on JFP's suggestions I bought the entire kit over a year ago - works perfectly on any car.There is a much cheaper version w/o all the extras also. https://www.amazon.com/LIMITED-CTEK-BATTERY-CHARGER-EXTENSION/dp/B00D8DTG6U