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Showing results for tags '996'.
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New to me '03 996 C4 Cab 28k miles, just back from a post purchase inspection at the indy. CEL P0455 popped on the way home and today I'm unable to fill the gas at all. It just immediately burbles out like the tank it already full or the line to the tank ia blocked. Mind you this also my first attempt ever filling the vehicle but I've pretty conclusively ruled out operator error. Going to be getting at the evap canister tomorrow to see if maybe the line was kinked putting the wheel well cover back on or if it's something more serious. New fuel cap also on the way but don't think that is probably the culprit given the filling issues. Will update as requested. -
Can the 2001 behind the dash wire harness work with the 2003 harnesses including 3.6L engine, engine harness, rear harness, dme 7.8, immobilizer, etc This is a swapped 3.6 car that was functioning properly in an earlier 2001 race car. Had to Retub the car and move all the harnesses to donor 2001 chassis. Moved everything except the wire harness behind the dash. The car starts and functions except water temp gauge on the 2003 cluster connected to the 2001 wire harness behind the dash. Also durametric recognized the cluster as an earlier cluster and not the k21 (3.6l) cluster. Any help will be appreciated. -
2002 C2, 95k miles, original exhaust and O2 sensors. A few months back the CEL went on, Durametric says P0420: Porsche fault code 40 - Cat. conv. efficiency bank 1. CEL has stayed on so I investigated further. Pre- and post-cat O2 sensor voltages shown in attached charts, upper chart for Bank 1 and the lower for Bank 2. Warmed up the system at idle, then throttled up to 2.5 - 3k three times, two short, one long, during which time all sensors went near zero. It looks like Bank 1 (upper chart) post-cat sensor is showing a problem while Bank 2 (lower) looks fine. (I started capturing Bank 2 after Bank 1) Also for a few years there has been a little rattling on the driver's side exhaust which I've suspected is a failing cat, but the exhaust system has not been recording any faults until now. After having read a few related threads, it seems fairly certain that the Bank 1 cat is failing, perhaps with a loose element that reduced cat performance after the third throttle bump in the charts below. I'm leaning that way because it appears the sensors are all reporting data at about the same rate, oscillating when expected, except for post-cat Bank 1's sensor which begins the capture looking like it is largely reporting correctly but ends with oscillations that shouldn't be there. There has been no perceptible change in performance, and I have over a year until the next smog inspection, so there's time. Does this information indicate a pretty strong likelihood of a failing Bank 1 cat? Or are there additional diagnostic steps I should take to eliminate other causes?
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I have a 2003 996 carrera cabrio. Recently it has developed a rattle or possibly a warning buzzer at exactly 60 mph. Could this be related to the limiter setting? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance Roy Parnell. -
My 1999 911 Carrera started smoking at a streetlight. Very smelly blue smoke was coming from under the engine cover. I pulled over and popped the cover. Blue smoke was coming from somewhere under the engine (not the exhaust). The engine stopped very suddenly. We don't have a local Porsche dealer, but the Subaru dealer owns a bunch of 911s and he has a couple Porsche mechanics. I had it towed there. The C1 fuse ("Engine Electronics") was blown. They replaced it, but as soon as they turned the key, the "cam adjuster wiring harness" (I do not know what this is) began to smoke, and the fuse blew again. They disconnected the cam adjuster wiring harness (I don't know what this means, and neither did the service advisor), and the fuse stayed intact, and they got the car started. They were able to drive it out to the parking lot with no problems. They said I need a new cam adjuster wiring harness (again, no idea what this is), and this would require an engine out repair, which they could not do. They estimated this work at $5,000 to $6,000. Additionally, they did not know how drivable the car was with a disconnected cam adjuster wiring harness. So ... how bad is this? (Service report image attached.)
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To all 996 owners with PSE, especially those with a 4S. I think my 996 C4S exhaust behaves oddly. I think it's a fault but you might tell me it's normal behaviour. The problem is that I've always had this 'fault' on my car so I don't know if it's a fault or intentional behaviour. If you have the same car, perhaps you can shed some light on this. When I start it, it's noisy and sounds great. It quiets down as it runs for the first 5 mins. I have the PSE system and when I press the button you can audibly hear the exhaust note change - quieter when on and louder when off. Default is off so loud. Here's the rub. Up to around 1500rpm it's got a good noise then it fades out to the point where it's so quiet it's like driving my partners Yaris. If I keep accelerating, when I get to around 3500rpm the exhaust suddenly gets loud again. I mean it's immediate - like someones flipping a switched marked loud. It sounds great. It happens in 2nd and 3rd gears most noticeably and the PSE is in the 'off' position. If I have the PSE button on, then it's just quiet all the time and that works fine. So why the silent spot? I did read somewhere that German market cars might have had a system that turns on and off the PSE at certain speeds to prevent people driving round residential streets with a loud exhaust but information is thin and I don't think I was ever on UK cars. I have also had a small go at checking vacuum pressure at idle on both sides of the Y piece in the engine bay but both hold good pressure. One side has only a microscopic leak but not enough to cause this kind of issue. -
Hi everyone, I just got a set of gauges for a 2005 996. I'm building a simulator for PC and would like to wire the gauges to work with racing games. I am in need of the wiring diagrams for the cluster. If anyone has a picture or manual that can help me out it would be great! Looking for inputs, power, signal. -
Hi, My 99 996 has started beeping twice when I press the key fob. It locks and then immediately unlocks. Also when opening the drivers side door, the window goes down when handle is pulled but goes straight back up when the handle is released. So the window obstructs the door closing. I have the following Durametric Alarm errors: 11 Voltage failure during alarm output Status: not present Frequency counter: 1 10 Voltage failure at terminal 30 with alarm system active Status: not present Frequency counter: 1 46 Control locking synchronization Status: not present Frequency counter: 2 49 K lead Status: not present Frequency counter: 1 21 W lead (DME immobilizer) Status: not present Frequency counter: 1 What's the best way to proceed with fixing this? Thanks Ravi
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hopefully simple question. helping 996 owner on facebook 996 site. he asks if rear view mirror for 996 and 997 interchangeable.
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Hi - 2002 996: Scoured the lists but can't find this particular cluster problem anywhere. In short, my salvage cluster shows a list of errors on start up but my original was fine.... Here's the details. My current cluster shows an intermittent airbag failure warning on the led screen followed by the idiot light. It usually occurs at start up, clears at the stalk and the idiot light remains on, but flickers on occasion. My mechanic had ruled out everything he could related to the airbag warnings and since he didn't have a spare cluster, couldn't swap to test for that. I personally purchased a salvage cluster, removed the battery terminals, installed it and it came to life (I'm also having to buy replacement connector housings because mine disintegrated). The problem is the info screen pretty much scrolled through a variety of issues like oil pressure feedback, temp feedback, fuel feedback, etc. The oil pressure gage was also unresponsive. I expected the odometer to be wrong, but didn't expect all the errors. I also started the car and while it ran, it did run rough, sputtered a bit. Do I have a bad salvaged cluster? Does the cluster need to be programmed (beside the odometer)? -
2002 996 Welcome everyone to another installment highlighting the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts! Have both 17" and 18" wheels and have recently lost the metal Center Cap logo medallion off of one wheel of each size. While removing the other center caps every remaining medallion fell right off in my hand. Metal medallion secured with a random dab of some type of adhesive. We have reached the end of lifespan of whatever adhesive the Center Cap supplier used to keep precious colored metal medallions stuck to those cheap plastic caps. Anyone know how to remove old adhesive? Anyone have any idea what adhesive to replace it with? Anyone know how much the Porsche/Piech families made selling replacement center caps last year? Remember when paying through the nose for your precious replacement Center Caps that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia.
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wires came out of my camshaft sensor and not sure what order they are -
Okay this is REALLY specific. The adjustable tension cable on the drivers side of my cabriolet disconnected at the top where it threads (8mm) into the top frame, not at the bottom where it snaps onto the ball. The is a larger diameter (10mm?) clean smooth painted hole where the cable needs to thread in, which leads to the presumption that there was a nut on the back side? Searched all over including removing driver's side rear 'door' panel and fishing around with a magnet but no loose nut found. Looks like getting to back side of this frame casting would entail a major disassembly of the cabriolet top frame? Also, what does this clip that goes over hydraulic cylinder do? Right side clips is in place about halfway down length of cylinder. Left side clip was down around the base of the shaft. Replacing it where there appears to be a shiny spot looks like it would interfere with the cabriolet top potentiometer arm. Right cable threaded into frame at top Right cable threaded into frame at top Missing cable location Smooth clean painted hole in top frame where 8mm cable end is supposed to thread in Left cable Left upper cable end with 8mm thread Clip question
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Hi everyone, I've had a spoiler warning lamp on since I bought my 1998 996 convertible a few years ago. As an electronics engineer, I decided I may be able to tackle this issue myself. Before starting, I have read numerous previous posts regarding this issue, and what the fixed-wing bypass harness (996 612 070 51) does. When the rear spoiler is elevated, I'm getting zero Ohms between the Grey/Brown (A2) wire and the Brown (A5) wire, as expected. This becomes open circuit when the lid is lowered. There is then zero Ohms between the Brown (A5) and the Green/Grey (A4) wires, again as expected! The switching of the brake lights works normally too, but still the warning light persists. I am wondering if there could be a corroded plug/socket further forward from the rear of the car because the one at the back is very clean and the microswitch states are normal in both positions. I'm not sure if this is a common fault, but I'm guessing it probably isn't as I can't find anything online. One thing I have noticed is that although the manual up/down wing rocker switch works, I have to keep is pressed down until the wing is down. When I try to elevate the wing manually, the switch triggers the latching function of the relays, but when the spoiler is fully up, I can still hear the motor continuing to turn and the gears slipping inside the rear mechanism. The gears will eventually strip and I'll end up with a bigger problem, so any thought on this nuance would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Dave
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Hi all I have a low oil pressure problem on my 2003 996 C4S RHD / ROW, Tiptronic. Owned since 2012, oil change at least annually first with Mobil 0W40, more recently Fuchs or Liqui Moly (green) 5W/40. Looking for help from anyone who has seen something similar - I've looked at various threads on this topic but couldn't find the exact symptoms. Last oil change was done in Sept 2018 with the Liqui Moly green. About two months later, the "oil pressure too low" red light started to come on intermittently. Either on start-up, or sometimes when slowing down or waiting at the lights. It doesn't stay on forever, just flashes and goes. Had the oil pressure sending unit replaced (its been faulty for a while and yes I know I should've replaced that way earlier.. now not sure if this has been masking the problem at hand).. After replacing the unit, I assume the gauge is accurate and it shows: - On cold start-up: gauge stays at zero for first 5-7 sec. The red low oil pressure light flashes on, then the needle moves up to 3 bar max - On warming up, the needle will drop and eventually settle on 0.8 bar (i.e. after 10 mins and water temp rises to normal operating temp) - Oil pressure does NOT rise on acceleration - i.e. when rev to 3-4K, the needle doesn't move at all. It used to move with the revs I've also had the oil pressure relief spring / piston / gasket changed (and oil topped back up of course) with no difference. I'm thinking of the following next steps (in order of complexity and $$): 1. oil change / filter change, check filter for metal and ensure it isn't collapsed / crushed 2. mechanical gauge to confirm that oil pressure is indeed low, and it isn't an electrical misreading 3. inspect oil sump - check for blockages in the oil pickup tube 4. drop engine - check oil pump for failure 5. rebuild engine - have reached out to a few builders who have said it could be crankshaft bearings worn, engine no longer to hold pressure. I guess this would be worst case. I hope it ain't 4 or 5, but something has worried me about this problem.. Why I say above this oil pressure problem might have been masked by the faulty sending unit? My gauge used to rise to 1.5 bar even before the engine fired up but with ignition on. My indy looked at that and laughed "how could there be oil pressure when the engine isn't on!"... So when the engine did start the gauge showed 4.5 on cold start, and it would drop to about 2.x when at operating temp. So.. if my sending unit was faulty and was adding an additional1.5 bar of pressure to the gauge.. Anyone experience similar? Thanks. Henry -
The left door key switch on my 00’ 996 c4 will not lock or unlock. I took the handle and bracket out of the door frame. I was told what usually breaks is the cylinder but nothing appears to be broken. I don’t want to buy a new key so simply replacing the bracket isn’t an option. Is there a straight forward solution or do I need a specialist?? Any my feedback would be much appreciated thanks! -
Cabriolet side/mud flaps are actuated by this lead screw which is attached to the shaft of the drive motor. If your tops gets out of synch as mine did when the bolt that holds a side arm casting to the hydraulic piston fell out, then it creates a cascading nightmare of fragile part failures. First that spindly potentiometer arm with the lightening holes to save a hundredth of gram of plastic breaks off, now these. This tiny molded soft plastic nut runs on what I measure as a M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw, which is apparently less common than the M8 x 2 pitch lead screw used in 3D printers. It is ridiculous to replace the entire side flap assembly because this soft plastic lead screw nut gets run to the end and stripped/cracked so it runs too slow and the computer times out. Has anyone sourced this lead screw nut or a replacement M8 x 1.5 pitch lead screw nut with a triangular or round flange that could be cut down square to insert into the carrier that operates the flap?
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List Mates, I have a 2002 996 c4. When my Air conditioner compressor is activated the volume of air coming out of the vents is decreased dramatically. It still blows cold but just very very low volume or amount. I have had it recharged , checked leaks , replaced condensors etc but nothing changes. As soon as you switch the ac off ( snowflake button) the volume of air through the vents goes right back up. Volume of air is fine on heat , defrost etc. I have never had this issue with any other vehicle. Any ideas as to what the problem may be? -
Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!
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Transitioning from previous thread to new one-- Replaced the water pump and performed the 60,000 mile service in my 04 Turbo Cab. Car runs great except now I am getting overboost to 1.0-1.3 bar. I don't hold it there to be sure. That said, I realize it is likely a vacuum issue but the only lines I touched during the repair are the one from the Y-Pipe to the switch and the one from the switch to the plastic line that goes to the driver side of the engine. Flashlight and inspection mirror show the 3rd line on the underside of the switch to be connected. Any thoughts on where else to look? Thanks Owen
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2003 996 seat height adjustment not working. Back seat adjustment works and forward backward manual adjustments work fine. Anyone experienced this and what might be the cause? -
Car: 2003 996 Cab. Symptom: The fuse for the front power windows and the fuse for the rear windows will blow instantly when a new fuse is inserted. History: The car was in winter storage and, though disconnected, the battery went 100% flat. I reconnected the battery and used a jump-start box and she fired right up after letting the battery pick up a little charge. But the windows rolled themselves all the way down and then (I guessing here) the fuses blew. When I replace a fuse, it blows even before I can get it all the way seated. Also, when I got the car home I removed the battery and put it on a slow charge, so the car was essentially without power for 2 days. I've scanned the car with a Foxwell NT-510 and there are no faults in any system. I don't have any idea where to start troubleshooting this. I don't know where to find a wiring diagram to begin knowing where to look. I'm handy with tools and comfortable with electricity, but this has me stumped. Any thoughts on where to begin?
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Hi, can anyone tell me if these compression numbers look healthy? It's a 3.6L from a 2002 Carrera 996 1 - 253 2 - 265 3 - 252 4 - 265 5 - 250 6 - 261 Thank you -
Can anyone offer advice on this please. The car is a recent purchase, 2002 4S Coupe with 92k miles. Drove fine for the first month, but now a whining noise sounds as if it’s is coming from somewhere behind the dash/firewall/front axle area. The whine varies with engine speed/gear selection, so it presumably can’t be from the tiptronic transmission or front axle otherwise it would vary with road speed. However, the noise completely disappears when the a/c blower is turned off. I’m not great on electrics but was wondering if the blower fan might be failing and needing more alternator output at higher revs? I haven’t noticed anything untoward on the voltmeter. The a/c needs a re-gas, but I can’t think that can have any relevance? Any thoughts much appreciated. -
I am having an intermittent misfire issue with my 996. It started a few months ago, when the battery ran down after not driving it for a few weeks, and I had to jump the car to get it going. After a few miles, I got a CEL and the car started to misfire. Upon arriving at my location, which was just a short distance away, I turned off the engine and went about my business. Upon returning to the car, it ran fine. No CEL and did 65mph all the way home, which was about 20 miles away. All was good, until a couple of weeks ago, when on a slow drive, I got a misfire and the CEL came back on. I made it to a gas station to fill up, expecting it to clear again. This time it did not, and I limped it on home. After a couple of days, I went out to diagnose and checked codes. They were: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 P0305 – PFC 513 – Misfire Cylinder 5 P0303 – PFC 512 – Misfire Cylinder 3 P0304 – PFC 511 – Misfire Cylinder 4 These are on both banks. After a couple of days, I went out, cleared the codes, and the car ran just fine. No CEL and smooth running. I drove it a couple of times, without incident. However, today, I went out to drive the car. Went a short distance…all was fine. When I got back into the car, I once again had misfires and the CEL came on. Checked codes and all I have is: P0300- PFC 507 – Misfire detected P0301 – PFC 508 – Misfire Cylinder 1 The only thing I can think of is that it must either be related to a low voltage battery messing with the computer or somehow related to moisture, since both incidences occurred around having just completed a rain storm. The car was not driven in the rain. This would possibly point to bad coils. I have checked the MAF, but disconnecting the plug, when it was misfiring. No change in idle. Seems strange to have multiple Coils fail at once? But possible. Same with spark plugs. One item of note. This is a replacement engine, replaced by Porsche, due to an engine failure while the PO owned it. The current engine has about 30K miles on it. I am not sure if all the maintenance parts were replaced, such as AOS, coils, plugs, and so on. Any thoughts on what to check to help narrow down the issue, other than just replacing everything or taking it to the repair shop?
