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  1. I have a 2003 911 cabrio (no PSM) with the Carrera 18" wheels and need a new set of tires. I have decided on the Michelin Pilot Super Sports based on reviews and price. Unfortunately, they do not make stock sized rear tires (285/30 ZR18). My choices for rear tires are: 285/35-18 - (taller) or 265/35-18 - (narrower) My choices for front tires are: 225/40-18 - Original size 235/40-18 - Seen others recommend... not sure why 2 questions: 1) Which rear tire size would you recommend? 2) Why should I change the size of the front tires from the original size? Thanks for you input.
  2. '99 c2 6spd 167000mi Okay guys, Finally got my new water pump up on the engine. I go to torque the bolts and I get around to the last bolt only to have it bottom out! I jump back into the porsche parts Katalogue and sure enough it lists a 30mm and 25mm long bolt! can somebody illustrate for me which locations receive the shorter bolt? they all looked the same when I pulled them out :( rookie mistake for the old guy! :D thanks in advance all!
  3. 1999 C2 6spd Hey guys, I have known of this connector but recent repairs let me finally get my eyes on the plug itself and some wiring. The plug is the same plug as is found on the vacuum control valves. (both valves have wires plugged into them) The wires come out of the engine harness bundle between the vacuum reservoir and the driver side intake manifold, with the wires extending forward to the point that the wires can be seen coming forward of the AOS and the cylinder head, when viewed from below. I didn't have my phone on me to snap a picture sorry! Thoughts on what this connector is supposed to be plugged into? Engine runs just fine without it connected (or as fine as it always has!) thanks all!
  4. I'm down to deciding if it makes sense to take out all the typical road rash chips on the front bumper cover and up the front hood on my 996 MY00 coupe RWD, 6 MT Blk / Blk. Previous owner had been diligent with touch up blobs, but it obviously would be esthetically better to have the front clip redone with the exact water base L741 paint. Rest of the car is perfect. Black is easier to match than light colored cars, so I'm tempted. OPINIONS PLEASE : The car is original paint. Since values of our 996 ain't going up again for sometime, does a " re- spray " hurt potential future sale: Thanks all.
  5. Hello All, Joined the Porsche Owner World coupla weeks ago and this Forum today :D Purchased a 2004 996.2 GT3 Comfort Spec that I am using as a Daily Driver, and loving it :D Needs a bit of work as I am reverting it to Factory Spec i.e. removing SatNav & iPod peripherals, wheels back to original Silver etc. Previous cars are: 1964 VW Type 1 1969 Porsche 912 2007 VW Golf R32 Look forward to both gleening sage advice and contributing when possible! Matt
  6. I am wondering if anyone has experience with front bumper tab repair. When I bought my 2002 996tt I did not realize that the lower air dam lip had been replaced a number of times. After rubbing a dip an a cross street, the lip came off on the highway. Multiple central tabs are broken off on the lower edge of the bumper cover. Does anyone have a good fix to attach an "ebay style" lower lip? Thanks. Frank
  7. Hello all, newbie online member. A month ago went into Limp mode without any CEL's and had fault codes for the TPS. Replaced it, they came back. Shop replaced the alternator, regulator, and battery thinking a voltage fluctuation might be responsible. Codes came back. Changed out the throttle body for good measure. Now they are back. The shop is otherwise reputable, known for racing more than anything I guess, and they are big on the 993's. But an electrical issue I've found drives most shops nuts. With $5K into this repair already though I don't want a fishing expedition. Any obvious answers left? Porsche manual basically says if TPS error code, replace TPS. The only thing left upstream seems to be the harness and ECU. Should I go there next? Any easy diagnostics? After the TPS was replaced, it happened less often and with 100 miles in between faults. Meaning the older sensor seemed to fault more often if that is a clue. Any and all help appreciated. Kelly The PO had an early version aftermarket kit put on with k28's, upgraded exhaust, and a chip based tune.... dreading it's related to that.
  8. Planning a small overhaul of my 996 C2 Mk1 suspension/wheel/tires Current: Suspension: stock Wheels: OEM Sport Design 2 (bbs 2pc- wheels)(mk1 gt3 wheels) 18x7.5 et50 18x10 et65 Tires: Sumitomo HTR Z III (225/40/18- 285/30/18) Plan: Suspension: H&R Street Performance Coilovers + H&R Sway Bars (front and rear) Wheels: OZ Ultraleggera 19x8.5 et53 19x11 et65 Tire: Hankook Ventus V12 235/35/19 295/30/19 Any thoughts on the new set-up, issues i may have? experiences with the coilovers,wheels, tires? With the increased wheel width I think the wheels will be flush with the fenders but if not are spacers even an option?- does anyone have this set up? need to roll fenders? pics? thanks for your feedback
  9. Hello, I'm looking for a Diagram or Info on routing the throttle cable? Recently had the engine out and upon reinstalling I'm finding the tab where the rear cable section (to engine) connects to the front cable section (to cockpit) doesn't have quite enough slack. If I reassemble correctly it keeps the throttle plate cracked open resulting in a 3000 RPM Idle! LOL I have the Porsche factory PDFs that are floating around but have yet to see the cable routing & adjusting info. Currently I have the cable routed up over the manifolds and down the back next to the trans. Technically its laying on top of both resonance pipes and then drops down the back. Thanks in advance if you can help. - Bill
  10. Didn't find any TT or awd specific posts regarding this, so I was hoping I could get a quick walk through of the front control arm replacement procedure. My car is an '01 996TT. I found this, and the control arm and track arm look very similar in the picture so I am guessing it is closely resembling ours? ( http://kevingosselin.blogspot.com/2009/08/boxster-control-arm-replacment-in-total.html ) But that link doesn't deal with any front half shafts. Do I need to remove the hub assembly to do my front control arms? Should I have new CV boots/clamps standing by? Thanks for any pointers! -Connor
  11. Hello, I hope this is in the correct forum. I have owned a 2008 Boxster S since new in '08 and it has been a great car, close to 11,000 miles (not driven that much). I have the opportunity to trade the Boxster for a 2004 996 TT Cabriolet with 29,000 miles. This opportunity came up yesterday evening and I've been trying to research everything I can on the 996 Turbo. Basically I will have to give them my car and a check for approx $XXK to do the deal out the door (996 is $XX). I've always wanted a 911 turbo, but never thought I would want to spend the money or contend with the potential added upkeep to own one. This seems like a good deal but I am not sure of all the problems and added expense compared to my Boxster. I know the '04 996 TT engine was towards the end of production for that model, so were many of the previous problems ironed out by '04? The Boxster has been problem free for 5 years, am I being unreasonable in my thoughts the '04 996 would be as reliable? I made the mistake of test driving the 996 and all rational thought left as soon as I pressed the gas pedal! Putting the top down just made it worse, but I need to think clearly on this. I need some rational consideration to help with this decision. Any input would be helpful. Thanks!
  12. Greetings Renntech members. I'm new to Renntech and Porsche. I recently purchased a 1999 Carrera 996 (36K miles) and the alarm system has never worked correctly. I did not know that a single horn beep after remote locking was not normal until I had a chance to read the manual. (My American cars normally beep once after remote lock.) Symptoms: After remote locking the car the horn beeps once and then the dashboard LED goes into 2-flash mode, which I understand means one or more issues exist. I bought the Durametrics unit and hooked it up. This is where I'm getting confused. No fault conditions exist under the Alarm section. When I go into the Inputs mode, where one can view in near real-time the status of manual inputs to the Alarm System Module, only one input responds to physical changes: the internal lock switch near the radio does cause one of the display inputs to toggle. However I can open/close the trunk, hood, driver's door, and passenger's door but see no changes to any display input. I pulled the trunk and hood micro-switches and both are working correctly (open when trunk/hood is closed and closed when trunk/hood is open). The windows in both doors behave correctly (i.e. window drops 10 mm when open, stays down while open, and then moves back up 10 mm when door is closed). And everything else on the car works perfect. If I leave the trunk, hood, or passenger door open (on purpose) and remotely lock the car, the alarm system behaves the same (single horn beep and double flash on the LED), so it is clearly not recognizing these fault conditions. It is only when I leave the driver's door open on purpose does the alarm system respond: beeps once and does not activate the alarm system. I understand that the Durametrics system is not perfect so I'm wondering what you guys think. Are all the large number of non-responsive inputs in the Durametrics software just a "limitation" of the Durametrics hardware/software or should I be suspecting that my Alarm Control Module is bad? If the Durametrics software does have limitations, then I may attempt to open up the doors and manually test all those switches, as well as the passenger sensor, but I don't want to go there if I don't have to. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Great website and great car!
  13. Hey guys hoping somebody on here can fill me in on capabilities of the dealer software: Can you adjust the wheel size/speedometer pulse count in the computer? I have owners manual sized tires and the speedometer is WAY off, to the tune of 5mph fast. The speed doesn'tbother me so much as the odometer being way out of proportion to actual miles driven. I am also considering going away form the stock size tires so this would be extremely helpful for that. thanks!
  14. I have a 2002 996 C4S and the memory seats don't work. The electric motors in the seats work to adjust the seat but if you follow the instruction manual to reset/clear/programme the memory buttons or keys nothing happens. Can anyone suggest what I should look at to address the issues of the memory panel essentially not working? Many thanks in advance
  15. I own a 1999 carrera I opened up the top everything went fine. When I got home my hand brake would not engaged so I performed the "emergency operation" for the top as stated on the manual and got the top to close. Found out later a piece of paper got stuck between the hand brake and the switch which prevented it from engaging. So after getting the hand brake to engage again I tried to open the top it is just stuck. You can hear a clicking noise, indicator light would be solid then blink. Do I need to reset the anything or reverse the operation for it to work??? Mind you it did work before that whole hand brake paper situation. Thanks! ~Ram~
  16. Can any one assist with determining if it is possible to retrofit Park Assist into a Mk1 996 GT3? I understand the control module is under the left seat, there are 4 sensors in the rear bumper and the wiring will need to be run from the cabin to the rear as it will not be in situ. if I understand the ECU (?) will need to be set for Park Assist, my first question is can the Mk1 GT3 ECU (?) handle Park Assist? Thank you, Great Site. I am not yet convinced that i want to depart from an original spec, but parking will be tight end to end in the garage. I will use a bump stop on the floor as I reverse in and the aural warning would be extra protection.
  17. Has anyone used europeantransmissions.com for a transmission rebuild? They seem very customer focused and knowledgeable, but I'd like opinions before I take the leap. Thanks!
  18. Heya, So i was wondering if anyone knew off hand if the decklid size for the C4 and C4S were the same size? I know the C4S is a widebody car, but I am not sure that would necessarily mean a change in the decklid size. Any help would be much appreciated Thanks and Happy Holidays
  19. Heya, So I wanted to see if anyone on here had run into this, and get some opinions or ideas. I have a 2000 996 C4, love it. I bought the EVOMS cai, and installed it. I noticed while installing it the fitment from the filter to the pipe connecting to the throttle body did not have any method of being sealed. The pipe sort of fit semi-snugly inside the filter. I contacted EVOMS, to make sure I was not missing something like a clamp or some such. They did respond quickly and we very nice, but they assured me that is how it was supposed to be. Looking at other installs of this I see the same thing. What I have noticed however is twice in the month or so I have had it, the filter has slipped off the connecting pipe, and caused a cel to be thrown. This is not a big deal to fix, but the design seems a bit off. I also had another issue with it where the pipe attaching to throttle body slipped off while under load on the freeway (waaay unfun), since this happended only once I don't think it has much to do with the cai design. When this thing is on, and all the parts are connected, i love it, throttle response is great, sound is just awesome. Today I was at my shop and they were also commenting on how it did not seem to fit 'quite right'. We messed with it for a while, and I showed them how it fit in there. They also seemed to think it shoudl have another clamp or a better way to secure the filter. I am wondering if a better coupling of the filter to the throttle body pipe could be achieved with a silicon sleeve or the cutting the pipe and using two seperate silicone hoses , one on each side of the maf, the hose from the fabspeed one seems like a good candidate. I want to be clear that in no way I am trying to slam EVOMS at all, they have sold tons of these things, and like I said when its on, I love it. I am just wondering if anyone has run into this, or if they have any ideas. Thanks much
  20. I'm wondering if it wouldn't be smarter to tear down my MY00 996 C2 coupe RWD, 6MT now and have a reputable shop rebuild it instead of continuing to fix issues as they come up? Car has 96,000 on it. Current crate motor has 51,000. There is nothing major wrong now. I'm up against a cracked oil pump housing fix that is a bit of a pain. But the cost and time to get at it makes me wonder if having Jason ( ufo motorsports ) shouldn't just rebuild it. Over the last year, I've done coolant tank, hoses, plugs, and a blown coil issue that seems solved for now. Car is running perfectly except for the small coolant leak from the housing. No oil in water, no water in oil, oil pressure at 1.5 at idle and 3.8 at speed. Temp never moves off the 0 ( 180 ). Engine is dry, no leaks. Presuming crank, heads etc are all fine, I have an excellent core right now. If I wait until a major issue occurs, then I have a major costly rebuild or a lost car. Yes I know it's a catch 22, but opinions are valid. I've floated my situation to Duane ( vision motorsports ) Brian ( einmalig ) and Jason ( ufo motorsports ). Everyone has a different opinion and a dollar cost obviously. Unless I can find a reputable shop closer to Florida, I think SoCal is the logical place to shop for solution. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
  21. Found a small spotting of coolant dead center of engine at rear under cats and in front of pulleys . Thought it was water pump related, but turns out its the part that the coolant drain plug is cast into. Picture attached should help identify this. What is this pump housing part called? For now we JB welded it. Hopefully this patch will hold until the correct piece is located along with a new water pump probably since I'll be in there. As always, much appreciated for the help. Phil B
  22. I bought the Porsche factory manuals (all 17 volumes in 3-ring binders) in 2000 for about $600. I then spend about $100/year each for the next 6 years to get updates. My factory manuals ended up about costing $1200. Porsche stopped printing manuals a few years ago and the set was well over $1200 at that time. That does not really cover everything - you also need the OBD II manuals for DME 5.2.2. DME 7.2, and DME 7.8 depending on your model year. When I bought my OBD II manuals (again in 2000) they were about $200 each. So to cover all models it cost me about $600. Porsche also stopped printing these manuals a few years ago and at the time each was over $800. So all totaled I likely spent over $2000 for the factory service and OBD II manuals for the 996. For $138 (on Amazon) you get the Bentley Porsche 911 Carrera Service Manual (996) hardbound manual with photos that the factory manuals don't have - and from I can see so far 99% of the information that is in the factory manuals. BOTH service manuals and OBD II manuals. The manual layout is excellent logically each section from General Information and Maintenance to Wiring Diagrams and OBD II. Roughly 11 sections with great detail and photos the factory manuals never had. 1024 pages (and over 7.6 pounds) the manual is well composed and covers even some of the more tricky tasks. The photos are certainly worth a thousand words many times over. Clear, concise, detailed and from what I can see complete - this IS the service manual to have if you own or work on the 996 series cars. I highly recommend it. Updates and Videos can be found here Here are a few photos I took of the book..
  23. I'm sure this has been covered, and maybe I'm blind, but I've got quite the cold start rattle and want to look into changing out my tensioner's, the car is an 01 c2 cab, factory IMS, 97k miles and runs great. Is there any guide or maybe some tips to doing this? help would be appreciated!
  24. Just bought a '99 Carrera w/ 28K miles. My intro to Porsche ownership hasn't been smooth, but I love the car so I'm determined to whip it into shape. Bottom line, there's milkshake in the coolant reservoir, and I have to top up the oil every day. My mechanic (whom I trust) flushed the thing out a zillion times, but the problem hasn't gone away. He says the engine is shot and needs to be rebuilt by a Porsche specialist. Asking around turns up the notion that it's either a cracked head, cracked cylinder, or slipped cylinder. So I need a good rebuilder in the NYC area. Actually I'll go anywhere between Boston and DC, but would prefer to stick close to home. My impression is there are a lot of sharks out there, so I'd love to get people's input about shops they have experience w/ and trust. Thanks!
  25. I have a strange problem with a completely stock cdr-23 MOST audio system and I am not sure what to try to solve it. For a day or two after a rain, my driver's door woofer will pop when I open the door. I removed the door panel to see if the speaker was getting wet, but everything appears to be dry. I checked the amp, and everything appears OK there. Any suggestions?
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