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Showing results for tags '996'.
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Hi Everyone, I'm doing the 996 to 997 GT3-RS front conversion and need to re-pin the headlight connector as the 997 use A5 Pin instead of A4 as the 996 (for the High Beam) My question is how can I remove the pin from A4 and put it back in A5 ? How to re-pin the headlight connector ? I did a lot of search and didn't find anything specific on Porsche 996. Thanks Alex -
Hello! I am running into some electrical issues that all happened at once. Here are the items that I found not functioning: Cluster Illumination, power seats, radio (PCM does not power on), engine lid switch (frunk works), HVAC (the screen is functioning, but not blowing any air). The car starts fine and runs. I initially thought maybe the ignition switch was faulty, so I went ahead and replaced but nothing changed. I have checked many fuses and they all look fine. There are no trouble codes. If it matters, this is the scenario when I noticed all the problems: I just finished driving about 70 miles with no problems. Park the car outside and it started to rain. I needed to move the car so I got back in and noticed when I turned the light switch to the first notch, cluster did not illuminate but the headlights worked when I turned it to the next notch. Then I started testing to find the other symptoms. Everything was working on the drive I took a few hours before. Though after the drive, I was messing with the light switch to see if the fog lights worked. I never use them and for whatever reason I wanted to test if it worked, so I was turning the light switch way more than usual I guess. I drive the car a few times a week as it is my main car. Thanks! -
H! I have an 996 - 99mod manual 3,4L. When i start up it seems like it misfires. It`s kind of a knocking sound. Sometimes it stops on idle. When i push the throttle for a ouple of seconds, it smokes a lot and then the knocking goes away. After that, I let it Idle - but it slowly rises from 800rpm to around 2000rpm, then it drops to 800rpm again and do the same thing over and over again, Does anybody have a clue? This is the fault codes i found: P1601 -CAN timeout - instrument cluster P0600 - CAN timeout Tiptronic P0102 Hot film MAF sensor (erased and didn`t come back) 60 - Central locking limit pos 13 - Left door secured, but not locket 14 - Left door secured, but not locket 16 - Signal from airbag 1 - Doors secures and terminal 15 on 43 - passenger - side release stuck 44 - Driver-side release stuck 61 - Central locking limit position Unlock not reached -
For 2004, 996, GT3 Searching for the part number of the 4 quarter-turn plastic rivets that attach the black plastic trim piece over the front hood latch release, between the front bumper and the trunk gasket. Thanks!
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This just started - When you turn the key to start the vehicle, there is a noise (hum) from the sub-woofer that's stays on until the starter cranks. When the car starts, everything related to the radio is normal, but the LED on the Rear Defroster switch stays on all of the time. I was told the Rear Defroster relay is bad so I purchase a replacement. I'm having a problem locating this relay. Is it located under the dash or behind the rear seat? Which relay is it?
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2003 996 cabriolet. I was putting my top up yesterday and I heard a strange noise as it was finishing putting up the windows. The sound was almost like a popping sound (not very loud). I went to open the door (drivers side) and the window did not drop. I tried the outside handle and the inside handle and no drop. The window goes up and down fine. I have done a search and read several great write ups on micro switches and regulators, I am still a little stumped on this one. Is it a micro switch issue or possibly an issue with the top controller. I did not have a chance to investigate or troubleshoot because I had to go on a work trip. Anyone else have a similar issue? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. -
Yes, there are cheap aux cables available on ebay, Crutchfield (Blaupunkt cable), and even direct from Becker. There are also ipod adapters available from Crutchfield (Blau cable $5), Becker (over $100), and Scoshe ($180). I think the only one that offers both aux and ipod is the Scoshe and it's $180 and you would have to adapt it to the Porsche pinouts. Blaupunkt ipod $5: http://www.crutchfie...blaupunkt+cable Becker: http://www.beckeraut...trafficPro.html Scosche Audi: http://www.scosche.c...io/product/1822 The reason I started this thread is that I wanted to add both AUX and ipod capability. I wanted to be able to plug in my ipod or plug in a smart phone. I also wanted the ipod connection to charge my ipod. A couple of years ago I bought such an adapter off of ebay for my Accord, it was plug and play and cost about $75. I went on ebay and found that same adapter but they didn't offer it for Porsche. They did, however, offer it for Audi and VW. It was listed for $29 so I figured I would take a chance and try to get it to work with the Becker CDR-220. http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item2eb213a948 I'm not trying to promote their adapter, just trying to help out those that are looking to add ipod with charge capability and AUX. I cross referenced the VW/Audi pinouts to the Porsche CDR-220 pinous and got it to work. The key thing is that VW/Audi have all of their CD changer pins on the blue mini iso connector. Porsche moved these over to the green mini iso. See images borrowed from TDIClub. Blue mini iso as it is wired by Axxess for use on VW: Pin#13 - Data To Changer - Axxess wire Yellow Pin #15 - Data Clock To Changer - Axxess wire Blue Pin #14 - Data From Changer - Axxess wire Brown Pin #16 - Power to Changer (+12) Axxess wire Grey Pin #20 - Right Audio - Axxess wire White Piin #17 - Power Control -Axxess wire Green Pin #18 - Audio Ground Axxess wire Black Pin #19 - Left Audio - Axxess wire Red Removed the Yellow, Blue, Brown, Grey, and Green wires/pins from the Blue mini iso. I obtained a green mini iso and plugged the pins in as follows: Pin #10 - Yellow wire from Axxess adapter (cdr-220 data) Pin # 7 - Green wire from Axxess adapter (cdr-220 bus-on) Pin #12 - Brown wire from Axxess adapter (cdr-220 changer reset) Pin #9 - Left blank (but I'm pretty sure this is ground and the ground wire could have gone here. I chose to attach it to the radio body instead) Pin #11 - Blue wire from Axxess adapter (cdr-220 clock) Pin #8 - Grey wire from Axxess adapter (battery or power 12v) FYI, the 3rd image below is of the pinouts for the VW radio...NOT THE PORSCHE. http://www.modifiedlife.com/2002-volkswagen-jetta-car-radio-wiring-schematic-for-monsoon-audio/ I used this image to cross reference to the CDR-220 pinout provided by the pelicanparts forum under 986 diy radio. http://www.pelicanpa...dio_Install.htm I sent an email to tech support at Axxess to let them know of the pinouts I used and suggested they make a version for the Porsche as I know there's interest on this forum. Hopefully they'll work something up.
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Hi all, First of all I apologize if I do anything wrong since I only just created this account in order to ask this community a question. We own a Porsche 996 Targa 2002 and as we all know the 996 is prone to engine problems such as IMS and oil and coolant mixture. Today when I was checking if the engine still had enough oil and coolant and decided they needed a fillup I saw something that I did not really like. I've uploaded two pictures one of how the coolant looks and another picture of where you add the oil. Is the yellowish stuff you see ok or is this the first sign of the oil and coolant mixture? The car seems to run fine and never had any problems with engine temperature, hope you guys can help me out on this one! With kind regards, A somewhat nervous 996 owner.
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Hello Members, Just found some instructions for changing spark plugs without having to remove the rear bumper/license plate light, and intercoolers. The process is more or less - remove rear wheels, and then remove various heat shields - does this seem viable? Here is the link I found: http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/Porsche996TMajorMaintenanceupdate.pdf Using this method will save a bunch of time let me know, ewholz
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Looking through the PET I noticed that M96 3.6 997's use a different pressure plate but the same clutch as the 3.6 996. I have read online that the 997 clutch pedal is lighter than the 996, wondering if I can install a 997 pressure plate in a 996, anyone tried it? -
I need to get my rear window stitched on my 2000 cab. Looking for a referral in San Jose, CA / Bay Area. Any advice is welcome. Thanks in advance -
Hi all I started another post similar where I thought the Horn was the culprit of my battery drain, but it was actually the Alternator causing me a drain, so thought I would summarise the issue on a new post so that this might help other 996 owners and save them a lot of money and time! This is the original post and is detailed, so take a look at this afterwards: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48867-2000-porsche-996-battery-drains-the-alarm-horn-is-a-constant-3v-and-hums/page-3 Issue/Fault: So my 2000 Carrera Cabriolet was draining the battery in around 6 days, I was showing around 390ma of draw with the car locked and powered down, it should be upto 50ma, so I'm draining a Lot more! The drain was coming from the Alternators thin Blue wire, the one that goes to the regulator on the back of it. The wire was showing 3.7v Constantly with the Iginition off/car locked and 10.8v with the Key On/car started. I spent money on x2 Diagnostics, new ignition, I also removed all fuses, relays, Speedo Cluster, Blubs, ABS unit, PSM/ASR etc (All are linked to this Blue wire), but nothing helped, the fault seems to be in the middle of the Loom somewhere. FIX: I could not trace the fault to this 3.7v and I'm fed up of charging the battery and working on the car--- so I removed the rear passenger door panel, carpet and plastic cill tunnel to gain access to Connector "x2/3 black", the blue wire runs through this on Pin5. I unplugged this connector, I then Cut the blue wire as it went into the x2/3, I lenghtned these wires by 12". I then removed some of the sheathing on Pin 4 which is Black/Brown, I then soldered 12" of thin wire onto this, insulated all of these wires of course as cabled tied then neatly back up. I then installed a relay onto these 3 wires, and added a 4th Earth wire which I secured behind the door panel to bare metal. I also added a 5Amp fuse onto the relays power wire (the wire coming of the Black/Brown) . I then mounted this relay behind the door panel, well below the speaker (so the speakers magnet does not interfere with the relay). I can then remove the speaker and access the relay Easily, should I need to in the future. So Finally after months of research on the net, money spent and loads of evenings in the car, Its now Fixed! I did have 390ma Drain, now its 30ma which is very low and awesome!! I don't think I will need to charge the car again as It should last ages and ages unused in the garage and start easily! I would have loved to have found the actual Real fault but without stripping the dash off and hunting for these wires in this area, then I've done everything possible that I can access. I'm just pleased to not need to charge the car and now I can actually Chill and just enjoy owning, driving and polishing my 996! Hope this info helps. -
Hello Porsche experts, I recently purchased a used 911 Carerra, 2003 and had the fuel pump fail. So I looked around in Orange County to find a Porsche mechanic and ended up taking it to Hergesheimer. They replaced the fuel pump but a few days latter I experienced something very troubling. The car would start but idle was somewhat rough. Revving the engine was a challenge in the lower RPM 1000-3000 then it became a bit smoother when driving with load on the engine in the 3000-4000 RPM range. Alarmed by this I called the shop to bring the car in, but this was the day before the Rennsport Reunion in Laguna Seca so I dropped by another mechanic who brought up these error codes on a generic diagnostics tool: P0134 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1) P0101 Mass Airflow Sensor / Circuit range issue Performance problem P0154 O2 Sensor no activity detected (Bank 2 post CAT ) P2098 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2 P2096 O2 Sensor no activity detected Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean (Bank 1) P0156 O2 sensor circuit malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2 post CAT) Initially I thought this was related to the fuel pump replacement. So I called the shop who did the work and they said bring it over. Their analysis identified similar codes and they suggested a few hours to review the harness and sensors in order to asses the problem. A week later i am still trying to resolve this and wondered if I should replace the O2 sensors myself. I have done brakes and other minor maintenance. What is the opinion of the forum here on next steps? I can provide further detail -
Hello All, I got Air bag code 21, some posts say to replace the clock spring and some say to check the front left crash sensor. I don't have a spare clock spring laying around so I thought I'd start withe the crash sensor. Anyone have a photo or two or a good diagram on where I can find it? Believe the part number is 996.618.221.00. Thanks in advance! -
I have a PCM 1 coupled to a HAES 6x40 amp. I want to replace the PCM1 with a Parrot Asteroid Smart. The area where the unit fits has a cup holder which I have been taold is a problem in itself. I have located a facia and wiring kit from Euro Motorspeed but I have been told that because the Parrot is a 4 channel and the amp is 6, I am unable to link thme together! Any one with any ideas?/ I -
Hello everyone, As some of you may already know, we talked about designing a waterproof case for the Alarm Immobilizer Unit in Boxsters and 996s. These units get water damaged easily if the convertible top is left open during rain, or just by the accumulation of water by the car's water drains, because Porsche installed them right on the floor of the car. The costs entailed to repair this problem can reach $1,000's easily, that's why it would be more cost effectuve to protect the CLU to begin with. Therefore, after many months of revisions and working with vendors to complete this enclosure, we began shipping waterproof cases last week to the members that where on our waiting list. Below are a few screenshots of the installation video final Immobilizer Waterproof case. If you are curious about how it is mounted here is the installation video: and PDF instructions: http://goo.gl/A9NQou We're excited about this project and what it could mean to the Porsche community. Please share if you know someone that could benefit from this. -
Hi all My 2002 996 coupe has a squeaking passenger seat when I push/pull the top or back part of the seat, including driving over bumps. I have half powered seats,,, the top/back is powered while the lower seat assembly is manual. The squeak happens when the top/back is in any position including up so you can access the back seats. Something must be loose, but my question is if there are any DIY instructions that I could focus on instead of trying to tighten every bolt and hex screw that I can access. It's pretty compact down there... Appreciated... Thank you in advance -
Hi Guys, I bought a 1999 996 C2 and it now has 135K miles. I lived in a state where I didnt need to smog it for a decade. Now that I live in California, I went to smog the car and had failed due to lean fuel mix issue at slow RPMs on the NOX test. Since the car hasn't had a lot of repairs on it in the last few years, I figured it was time to replace some basic stuff. I ordered a bunch of new O2 sensors off Fleabay and installed them. Boom I now get almost instant P1115 and P1119 codes. I read Lorans advice on checking the ohms... Here is what my old units read and here is what the new plug and play O2 sensors are reading Old O2: 2.7 ohms Old O2: 2.9 ohms New O2: 4.9 ohms New O2: 4.8 ohms The parts have the same part number stamped into the connections. However it's clear that the 996 is extremely unhappy with the new units. I take it that there is no way to reset the ECM to use the new ohms range... Should I replace the old units again until I can source new sensors and make sure they dont have a reading over 2.5? Thoughts? Pappy -
See broken part in this Front Left wheel well pic of my 04 996... assume it is a suspension stroke sensor, but what does it do, and more importantly, what is the consequence of driving it un-repaired? I wonder how the ECU uses the input if there is no electronic suspension on my car... hmmm. The part it mounts to is plastic so it must have struck road debris I am guessing... if anyone knows the Part number so I can order a replacement many thanks in advance! Thx!
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Hi all, I am new to the forum and the Porsche community! I am currently in the market for a 996 911 C4S. I located an EXTREMELY clean C4S with the following options and specs. Because I am new to the community, I am not exactly sure what it is worth. It seems there is a large discrepency between one comparable car to another on eBay (sold listings). 2003 911 C4S •75,XXX miles •Manual transmission •Little to no cosmetic or mechanical flaws - interior and paint look brand new •All services up to date (IMS issue not resolved...) •Carrera White Exterior •Natural Brown Leather Interior Options: XPA - Thicker Steering Wheel XE8 - Dark Burr Maple Gear Lever XE9 - " " Hand Break X45 - Colored Instrument Dials X99 - Natural Leather Interior 288 - Headlamp Washer 446 - Wheel Caps With Colored Porsche Crest 680 - Bose Sound Opinion on value? Thanks everyone for you time, BB -
Hello All, Joined the Porsche Owner World coupla weeks ago and this Forum today :D Purchased a 2004 996.2 GT3 Comfort Spec that I am using as a Daily Driver, and loving it :D Needs a bit of work as I am reverting it to Factory Spec i.e. removing SatNav & iPod peripherals, wheels back to original Silver etc. Previous cars are: 1964 VW Type 1 1969 Porsche 912 2007 VW Golf R32 Look forward to both gleening sage advice and contributing when possible! Matt
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I guess some people like to personalize their cars. I guess it accomplished what the owner wanted, it made me snap a picture! Would you do something like this?
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Hi everyone. I just called my local tire shop to purchase some rears (285/30/R18 Pirelli P Zero Rosso N4 Porsche Spec) for my 996 and they told me that they are going to be discontinuing this tire next year. Has anyone else heard the same? Just for thoughts, what will you ride for a daily driver tire (wet/dry performance?) -
Hi, I need winter tires on my 1999 Porsche 996 Carrera. I found some used 19" (99736215602) ET57 8x19 front with 225/40r19 and (99736216202) ET51 11x19 rear with 255/35r19. My question is, will these fit my carrera? The owner have had it on a 996 Turbo (not 997 Turbo). Thanks :notworthy: -
Has anyone tried one of these yet: http://www.bendpak.com/Shop-Equipment/QuickJack/BL-3500.aspx I purchased the BL-3500 thinking that it would be perfect to lift up my 996 turbo. We can argue about weight margin later. It seems like plenty to lift up that car. The issue becomes the lift point locations on the car. The BL-3500 can only reach out to 46" between its rubber stops. If one was to purchase the BL-5000 it only reaches about 51" maximum. I've measured 54" center to center of the 996 lift points. This seems like it makes this product a no go with 996/986 and 997/987 owners. Does anyone have any advice that would provide good placement for other spots under the car that can be used to hoist it up inside of the 46" limits. Or have I been shortsighted and wasted my time? It all seemed like it would be perfect. Cheers, Todd
