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Showing results for tags '996'.
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Hello, Please have a look at this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WD1b8naXgo On my car it only lasts for a couple seconds. This occurs perhaps 1 per 20 startups and I have a strong feeling that only after cold nights or during cold mornings (defining cold here as 40-50F). I drive this car on a daily basis. Would you consider this normal behaviour? Many are posting similar questions like mine but without a video it is hard to judge if it is fine and occurs because some oil flows past rings to combustion chamber due to Boxster engine layout. Also some are talking of white, some grayish and some blue smoke :-) My car is 996, 2004, 3.6L, around 90k miles. AOS, plugs, coils are brand new. Both exhaust and cats look like brand new when borescoping. Leak down test >96/100PSI each cylinder, does not consume oil or coolant. Oil level is very close to maximum level, perhaps a tad lower than maximum. Using Motul X-Cess 8100 5w40. Thank you! -
Hey all, Looking for some help here. I developed a pretty bad coolant leak about a month ago, i was losing about 1 liter per week. When I got under the car i saw the dripping coming from the tip of the waterpump, and surrounding areas. Since the car had gone about 60k since it was last replaced I bought that and replaced it thinking that would be it. However, after assembling everything back together.... The leak seems to be coming out of whatever is next to it. Attached are a few pictures, any help as to what this is; or how to troubleshoot would be great!
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I did an oil change on my 2004 996 Carrera using the correct amount of Porsche specified oil about 1,500 miles ago. Now after running and car and letting the oil settle back to the oil pan the dash computer level and dipstick are reading the same. The oil level is half way from the min/max levels. I know that the oil level is in the acceptable range now, but is considered having low oil? The reason why I am asking is because I brought my car to get diagnosed (and fixed) for a faulty oil pressure sending unit problem that occurs rarely when the dash warning pops up saying oil failure and the oil pressure gauge goes to 0. Then when I shut off the car the error disappears. I think it has to be the oil pressure sending unit, especially from other similar issues on this forum. Some history on my car. Well I bought the car from carmax and purchased the maxcare warranty. I was going to put the part and do it myself but it was too easy and I said let me use the warranty (since they would use Porsche parts) and I won't have to buy the part. So when I bring it in they tell me that if they can't find a fault they have to charge me a diagnostic fee. I said ok I know what the problem is and the oil pressure sending unit is covered under the warranty so go ahead. The call me back with the results and told me that their Alltel computer diagnostic system did not read any faults and the first thing they did was check the oil level and it was low. I was upset because I run the oil check every time I run the car and I never received a low oil light on. I ran over there because I thought the technician doesn't know how to read Porsche oil and we confirmed that the oil level was smack in the middle of the min and max lines and no light on the dash. My response was oil level is good. His response was that oil level is low and that could be the cause of the oil pressure sending unit. My first question is that oil level considered have oil that is too low? I need help because I feel Carmax just conned me out of a diagnostic fee because they didn't even proceed to look for a loose wire or anything. They said if the oil level is low thats the first thing that needs to be fixed. I would understand if the oil level is low. But it is in the middle of the dipstick in the acceptable range? Please let me know if my logic or theirs is wrong. Thanks.
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Hi everyone, I have a 2003 C4S, I bought a Ebay kit, but have a MOST system, but non bose. CAn anyone provide me with some instructions on how to do an amp bypass? I don't nkow where the amp is, and does anyone have a wiring diagram of the amp? How to feed the wires to the amp from the head unit? thanks, Ben -
Hi all, new to this forum and not big on posting let alone searching for the correct place to post this info. I have been searching for an age to find a seat to fit the rear of my 996 C4S 52 plate. I finally resigned myself to putting my 18 month old in the front only to find the seat I bought actually fitted in the back. For all people who have had the same issues look no further. http://en.recaro-cs.com/child-seats-details/recaro-monza-nova-is.html this also has isofix should you wish to place in a different vehicle. I'm very fussy when it comes to fit and don't like having to alter anything. This seat fits straight in no problem and very easy to use. I paid under £200 for mine from Baby Boom and it was delivered the next day. You also get a choice of colours. Please feel free to post in correct place if I have got it wrong. I know this has been discussed else where but I am busy and don't have time to trawl other posts. -
Hello, I have some worries about my Porsche 994 C4. I have had the engine replaced last year because of a cracked cylinder, since then the car has been a pleasure to drive. I recently noticed the oil pressure, when fully warmed up fully, has been dropping to about .2 - .3 BAR. The car makes no strange noises, and the warning light never comes on. After a recent oil change at the dealership, I was told there was nothing to worry about, but I think that there still is. I read it is never supposed to be that low. I changed the pressure relief spring, nothing changed. I changed the pressure sender, nothing changed. I'm very stuck on what to do. Tomorrow I will hopefully check with a mechanical gauge. I was hoping someone could shed some light on this for me. Maybe if anyone has encountered similar problems. I'm worried it is something bad. Could it be a bad gauge perhaps? I'm curious how the pressure can drop so low, with no warning light. Any suggestions would really help, this car has been quite the handful so far. -
hi I am considering buying a low mileage aug 2004 registered C4S cabriolet. It is a light metallic blue/silver I think it might be Horizon Blue. I don't see this colour in any of the 996 charts - any thoughts? -
I have a 2003 911 cabrio (no PSM) with the Carrera 18" wheels and need a new set of tires. I have decided on the Michelin Pilot Super Sports based on reviews and price. Unfortunately, they do not make stock sized rear tires (285/30 ZR18). My choices for rear tires are: 285/35-18 - (taller) or 265/35-18 - (narrower) My choices for front tires are: 225/40-18 - Original size 235/40-18 - Seen others recommend... not sure why 2 questions: 1) Which rear tire size would you recommend? 2) Why should I change the size of the front tires from the original size? Thanks for you input. -
'99 c2 6spd 167000mi Okay guys, Finally got my new water pump up on the engine. I go to torque the bolts and I get around to the last bolt only to have it bottom out! I jump back into the porsche parts Katalogue and sure enough it lists a 30mm and 25mm long bolt! can somebody illustrate for me which locations receive the shorter bolt? they all looked the same when I pulled them out :( rookie mistake for the old guy! :D thanks in advance all! -
I'm down to deciding if it makes sense to take out all the typical road rash chips on the front bumper cover and up the front hood on my 996 MY00 coupe RWD, 6 MT Blk / Blk. Previous owner had been diligent with touch up blobs, but it obviously would be esthetically better to have the front clip redone with the exact water base L741 paint. Rest of the car is perfect. Black is easier to match than light colored cars, so I'm tempted. OPINIONS PLEASE : The car is original paint. Since values of our 996 ain't going up again for sometime, does a " re- spray " hurt potential future sale: Thanks all.
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1999 C2 6spd Hey guys, I have known of this connector but recent repairs let me finally get my eyes on the plug itself and some wiring. The plug is the same plug as is found on the vacuum control valves. (both valves have wires plugged into them) The wires come out of the engine harness bundle between the vacuum reservoir and the driver side intake manifold, with the wires extending forward to the point that the wires can be seen coming forward of the AOS and the cylinder head, when viewed from below. I didn't have my phone on me to snap a picture sorry! Thoughts on what this connector is supposed to be plugged into? Engine runs just fine without it connected (or as fine as it always has!) thanks all!
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I own a 1999 carrera I opened up the top everything went fine. When I got home my hand brake would not engaged so I performed the "emergency operation" for the top as stated on the manual and got the top to close. Found out later a piece of paper got stuck between the hand brake and the switch which prevented it from engaging. So after getting the hand brake to engage again I tried to open the top it is just stuck. You can hear a clicking noise, indicator light would be solid then blink. Do I need to reset the anything or reverse the operation for it to work??? Mind you it did work before that whole hand brake paper situation. Thanks! ~Ram~ -
I am wondering if anyone has experience with front bumper tab repair. When I bought my 2002 996tt I did not realize that the lower air dam lip had been replaced a number of times. After rubbing a dip an a cross street, the lip came off on the highway. Multiple central tabs are broken off on the lower edge of the bumper cover. Does anyone have a good fix to attach an "ebay style" lower lip? Thanks. Frank
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Planning a small overhaul of my 996 C2 Mk1 suspension/wheel/tires Current: Suspension: stock Wheels: OEM Sport Design 2 (bbs 2pc- wheels)(mk1 gt3 wheels) 18x7.5 et50 18x10 et65 Tires: Sumitomo HTR Z III (225/40/18- 285/30/18) Plan: Suspension: H&R Street Performance Coilovers + H&R Sway Bars (front and rear) Wheels: OZ Ultraleggera 19x8.5 et53 19x11 et65 Tire: Hankook Ventus V12 235/35/19 295/30/19 Any thoughts on the new set-up, issues i may have? experiences with the coilovers,wheels, tires? With the increased wheel width I think the wheels will be flush with the fenders but if not are spacers even an option?- does anyone have this set up? need to roll fenders? pics? thanks for your feedback -
Greetings Renntech members. I'm new to Renntech and Porsche. I recently purchased a 1999 Carrera 996 (36K miles) and the alarm system has never worked correctly. I did not know that a single horn beep after remote locking was not normal until I had a chance to read the manual. (My American cars normally beep once after remote lock.) Symptoms: After remote locking the car the horn beeps once and then the dashboard LED goes into 2-flash mode, which I understand means one or more issues exist. I bought the Durametrics unit and hooked it up. This is where I'm getting confused. No fault conditions exist under the Alarm section. When I go into the Inputs mode, where one can view in near real-time the status of manual inputs to the Alarm System Module, only one input responds to physical changes: the internal lock switch near the radio does cause one of the display inputs to toggle. However I can open/close the trunk, hood, driver's door, and passenger's door but see no changes to any display input. I pulled the trunk and hood micro-switches and both are working correctly (open when trunk/hood is closed and closed when trunk/hood is open). The windows in both doors behave correctly (i.e. window drops 10 mm when open, stays down while open, and then moves back up 10 mm when door is closed). And everything else on the car works perfect. If I leave the trunk, hood, or passenger door open (on purpose) and remotely lock the car, the alarm system behaves the same (single horn beep and double flash on the LED), so it is clearly not recognizing these fault conditions. It is only when I leave the driver's door open on purpose does the alarm system respond: beeps once and does not activate the alarm system. I understand that the Durametrics system is not perfect so I'm wondering what you guys think. Are all the large number of non-responsive inputs in the Durametrics software just a "limitation" of the Durametrics hardware/software or should I be suspecting that my Alarm Control Module is bad? If the Durametrics software does have limitations, then I may attempt to open up the doors and manually test all those switches, as well as the passenger sensor, but I don't want to go there if I don't have to. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Great website and great car! -
Hello, I hope this is in the correct forum. I have owned a 2008 Boxster S since new in '08 and it has been a great car, close to 11,000 miles (not driven that much). I have the opportunity to trade the Boxster for a 2004 996 TT Cabriolet with 29,000 miles. This opportunity came up yesterday evening and I've been trying to research everything I can on the 996 Turbo. Basically I will have to give them my car and a check for approx $XXK to do the deal out the door (996 is $XX). I've always wanted a 911 turbo, but never thought I would want to spend the money or contend with the potential added upkeep to own one. This seems like a good deal but I am not sure of all the problems and added expense compared to my Boxster. I know the '04 996 TT engine was towards the end of production for that model, so were many of the previous problems ironed out by '04? The Boxster has been problem free for 5 years, am I being unreasonable in my thoughts the '04 996 would be as reliable? I made the mistake of test driving the 996 and all rational thought left as soon as I pressed the gas pedal! Putting the top down just made it worse, but I need to think clearly on this. I need some rational consideration to help with this decision. Any input would be helpful. Thanks!
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Didn't find any TT or awd specific posts regarding this, so I was hoping I could get a quick walk through of the front control arm replacement procedure. My car is an '01 996TT. I found this, and the control arm and track arm look very similar in the picture so I am guessing it is closely resembling ours? ( http://kevingosselin.blogspot.com/2009/08/boxster-control-arm-replacment-in-total.html ) But that link doesn't deal with any front half shafts. Do I need to remove the hub assembly to do my front control arms? Should I have new CV boots/clamps standing by? Thanks for any pointers! -Connor
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Hey guys hoping somebody on here can fill me in on capabilities of the dealer software: Can you adjust the wheel size/speedometer pulse count in the computer? I have owners manual sized tires and the speedometer is WAY off, to the tune of 5mph fast. The speed doesn'tbother me so much as the odometer being way out of proportion to actual miles driven. I am also considering going away form the stock size tires so this would be extremely helpful for that. thanks!
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Found a small spotting of coolant dead center of engine at rear under cats and in front of pulleys . Thought it was water pump related, but turns out its the part that the coolant drain plug is cast into. Picture attached should help identify this. What is this pump housing part called? For now we JB welded it. Hopefully this patch will hold until the correct piece is located along with a new water pump probably since I'll be in there. As always, much appreciated for the help. Phil B
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Memory Seats not working
avp546 posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I have a 2002 996 C4S and the memory seats don't work. The electric motors in the seats work to adjust the seat but if you follow the instruction manual to reset/clear/programme the memory buttons or keys nothing happens. Can anyone suggest what I should look at to address the issues of the memory panel essentially not working? Many thanks in advance -
Can any one assist with determining if it is possible to retrofit Park Assist into a Mk1 996 GT3? I understand the control module is under the left seat, there are 4 sensors in the rear bumper and the wiring will need to be run from the cabin to the rear as it will not be in situ. if I understand the ECU (?) will need to be set for Park Assist, my first question is can the Mk1 GT3 ECU (?) handle Park Assist? Thank you, Great Site. I am not yet convinced that i want to depart from an original spec, but parking will be tight end to end in the garage. I will use a bump stop on the floor as I reverse in and the aural warning would be extra protection.
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Has anyone used europeantransmissions.com for a transmission rebuild? They seem very customer focused and knowledgeable, but I'd like opinions before I take the leap. Thanks! -
Heya, So i was wondering if anyone knew off hand if the decklid size for the C4 and C4S were the same size? I know the C4S is a widebody car, but I am not sure that would necessarily mean a change in the decklid size. Any help would be much appreciated Thanks and Happy Holidays -
Heya, So I wanted to see if anyone on here had run into this, and get some opinions or ideas. I have a 2000 996 C4, love it. I bought the EVOMS cai, and installed it. I noticed while installing it the fitment from the filter to the pipe connecting to the throttle body did not have any method of being sealed. The pipe sort of fit semi-snugly inside the filter. I contacted EVOMS, to make sure I was not missing something like a clamp or some such. They did respond quickly and we very nice, but they assured me that is how it was supposed to be. Looking at other installs of this I see the same thing. What I have noticed however is twice in the month or so I have had it, the filter has slipped off the connecting pipe, and caused a cel to be thrown. This is not a big deal to fix, but the design seems a bit off. I also had another issue with it where the pipe attaching to throttle body slipped off while under load on the freeway (waaay unfun), since this happended only once I don't think it has much to do with the cai design. When this thing is on, and all the parts are connected, i love it, throttle response is great, sound is just awesome. Today I was at my shop and they were also commenting on how it did not seem to fit 'quite right'. We messed with it for a while, and I showed them how it fit in there. They also seemed to think it shoudl have another clamp or a better way to secure the filter. I am wondering if a better coupling of the filter to the throttle body pipe could be achieved with a silicon sleeve or the cutting the pipe and using two seperate silicone hoses , one on each side of the maf, the hose from the fabspeed one seems like a good candidate. I want to be clear that in no way I am trying to slam EVOMS at all, they have sold tons of these things, and like I said when its on, I love it. I am just wondering if anyone has run into this, or if they have any ideas. Thanks much
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I'm wondering if it wouldn't be smarter to tear down my MY00 996 C2 coupe RWD, 6MT now and have a reputable shop rebuild it instead of continuing to fix issues as they come up? Car has 96,000 on it. Current crate motor has 51,000. There is nothing major wrong now. I'm up against a cracked oil pump housing fix that is a bit of a pain. But the cost and time to get at it makes me wonder if having Jason ( ufo motorsports ) shouldn't just rebuild it. Over the last year, I've done coolant tank, hoses, plugs, and a blown coil issue that seems solved for now. Car is running perfectly except for the small coolant leak from the housing. No oil in water, no water in oil, oil pressure at 1.5 at idle and 3.8 at speed. Temp never moves off the 0 ( 180 ). Engine is dry, no leaks. Presuming crank, heads etc are all fine, I have an excellent core right now. If I wait until a major issue occurs, then I have a major costly rebuild or a lost car. Yes I know it's a catch 22, but opinions are valid. I've floated my situation to Duane ( vision motorsports ) Brian ( einmalig ) and Jason ( ufo motorsports ). Everyone has a different opinion and a dollar cost obviously. Unless I can find a reputable shop closer to Florida, I think SoCal is the logical place to shop for solution. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
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