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Showing results for tags '996'.
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I'm sure this has been covered, and maybe I'm blind, but I've got quite the cold start rattle and want to look into changing out my tensioner's, the car is an 01 c2 cab, factory IMS, 97k miles and runs great. Is there any guide or maybe some tips to doing this? help would be appreciated! -
Just bought a '99 Carrera w/ 28K miles. My intro to Porsche ownership hasn't been smooth, but I love the car so I'm determined to whip it into shape. Bottom line, there's milkshake in the coolant reservoir, and I have to top up the oil every day. My mechanic (whom I trust) flushed the thing out a zillion times, but the problem hasn't gone away. He says the engine is shot and needs to be rebuilt by a Porsche specialist. Asking around turns up the notion that it's either a cracked head, cracked cylinder, or slipped cylinder. So I need a good rebuilder in the NYC area. Actually I'll go anywhere between Boston and DC, but would prefer to stick close to home. My impression is there are a lot of sharks out there, so I'd love to get people's input about shops they have experience w/ and trust. Thanks!
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I have a strange problem with a completely stock cdr-23 MOST audio system and I am not sure what to try to solve it. For a day or two after a rain, my driver's door woofer will pop when I open the door. I removed the door panel to see if the speaker was getting wet, but everything appears to be dry. I checked the amp, and everything appears OK there. Any suggestions? -
Need help here. My 2000 996 coupe RWD, 6MT has a weird coolant drip issue that seems to heal itself. Last week after taking the car out for a brief run, I noticed a coolant drip hitting the dirver side exhaust tip. Knowing that this is the prime indicator of a coolant tank issue, I took the car over to my techs. The car cooled down, and showed NO signs of a leak anywhere? After a visual and finally a pressure test of the system, we came to the conclusion that the cap was the problem ( old cap ending in 00 ). We got a new cap the following day, topped off the tank, re checked and went on to other things on the squawk list. Today, after bringing her back out for another fun run, I again noticed a coolant leak, somewhat more pronounced coming down from just behind the driver side rear wheel inside housing. ( spot was about a foot in diameter, meaning maybe a cup of coolant leak? ). So again, I cooled the car down, and amazingly, no more leak? The temp guage sits spliting the 8/0 always and had only moved to splitting the 0 on the way back home. I pulled the cap and the tank is flush full of nice green coolant. I'm perplexed at this point. I live in Florida, so heat is always a concern, but our temps right now are really mild and the car isn't showing any typical signs of stress from the usual culprits? Help always appreciated. Yes, I know search is my friend, but this issue is just weird. -
I have a strange problem with a completely stock cdr-23 MOST audio system and I am not sure what to try to solve it. For a day or two after a rain, my driver's door woofer will pop when I open the door. I removed the door panel to see if the speaker was getting wet, but everything appears to be dry. I checked the amp, and everything appears OK there. Any suggestions?
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Need some help deciding. Currently looking to spend $40-$50k on a used car in the area. CPO or non-CPO, still deciding. I've come up with a list of 3 cars that I think fit my needs. My situation - Children: One girl (2 years) / One boy (on the way in Jan), wife has a new SUV that we use 100% of the time for going out with the kids - car purchasing ~Spring 2013 - invited to at least 3-5 member only track days a year. Currently have to borrow my manager's Cayman S, but would like to get a track worthy car for sessions. - only drive about 10 miles a day to work, but would primarly use this car on weekends for fun Needs - to be track worthy - between $40-$50k - obviously looking for lowest mileage / best maintained - some sort of backseat room for car sets (if I had to transport my kids in emergency) - not sure if CPO would help if I'm keeping this new car low mileage and if tracking the car would void CPO? My opinions on the 3 choices I've come to... Porsche 911 (996/997) Pros: - Most Balanced of the bunch - Probably quickest on the track - Actually a good amount available in the area - Already fimiliar with driving Cayman/911 around the track - Best styling Cons: - uber small backseat - most expensive to purchase / maintain - will probably have to buy higher mileage to get within $40-$50k range - not sure it will pass the wife test BMW M3 (e92) - Coupe/Sedan Pros: - Amazing engine sound - Backseat Room in both Coupe/Sedan - Great track times - Probably best daily driver Cons: - lots of M3s around here - becoming hard to find - $ marked up / popular Mercedes-Benz c63 AMG Pros: - More amazing engine sound - Most backseat room - Most HP/Torque, Raw power - Fastest strait line performance Cons: - Auto only - gas mileage (but, not too concerned) - very heavy car and probably least track worthy I've test drove all of them and love each one. But, which one fits my situation the best? Sorry for long post... -
Someone out there please help me. I have installed a 2004 996 3.6L motor into my 2000 986 Boxster 'S'. I have also installed a Motronic 7.8 DME as running the Motronic 7.2 DME with a 'piggy-back' chip is not the ideal solution. I have the wiring diagram for the 996 Carrera DME Engine (Sheet 12A in the Porsche Workshop Manual). I am now desparately looking for the wiring diagram for the 996 Carrera DME Vehicle Area (Sheet 12 in the Porsche Workshop Manual). The wiring diagrams are the same for model year 2002 onwards. If there is anyone so kind as to help me out I would appreciate it, thanks in advance. Eugene (South Africa). -
hi! Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 996 turbo 2001 they are willing to share with me? My right rear foglight dosen't work, I have measured and there is no 12V, I have ground on the brown cable, but no power on the gray cable.. so I want to find the other connection points to figure out why I don't have 12V on the gray cable.. and yes the fuse is ok :) hope someone can help! Kenneth
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This above referenced car is sitting at my local Porsche dealer. The car currently has 36500 miles. When I looked at the CARFAX the following service was completed at Beverly Hills Porsche (4-08 @ 22,800 miles)Transmission removed to complete repair Fuel filler cap secured, Front crankshaft oil seal replaced Engine cleaned Transmission checked. Had the dealer call BHP and they also replaced the clutch but no intermediate shaft bearing. Have requested the DME but have yet to get a reply. Will obviously get a PPI should I get a favorable response. Should I stay or should I go on to something else? Ron -
I have a MY 1999 996 C4 that I had to have towed because of a coolant leak. I saw smoke coming form the engine area so I pulled over, saw the leak and thought it best to get a tow. I initially thought it may be a hose leaking, but found that when I squeezed a hose, it looked like coolant was leaking from the lowermost flywheel (where the serpentine belt goes). Is this possible or could it be leaking from somewhere that I cannot see? About 1000 miles ago I had a new clutch, IMS and RMS bearings installed. Could any of these repairs be related to the coolant leak? I want to try to fix this myself before having the car towed for repairs if possible. Thanks in advance for your help!
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Hi, I am installing a set of recon running lights on my 99 C4 and wonder where would be the best wire routing up to the firewall grommet behind the battery. I was thinking of using the side marker wire hole. Tx
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RennTech.org long time member, technical expert, and long time supporter Richard Hamilton has written an excellent new book that is a must have for every 996, 996TT, GT2, and GT3 owner. The book has many technical specs as well as sales numbers. From how things work in this series Porsches to technical tips and common problem solutions with "how to" descriptions. From Amazon "This handy glovebox sized book gives the owner the key information needed to own and maintain the Porsche 911 Carrera (996) (1997-2004). There’s a year by year description of all the model types and changes, basic and not so basic maintenance, tips on how to get the best from the car and sections on customization and improvement. This book aims to give the owner an introduction to the fun of owning a 996 and is a primer for some of the easier home mechanic tasks." NOW AVAILABLE at Amazon (US) for only $26.91 $26.60 -- 911 (996 series) Ultimate Owners Guide The book is also on Amazon UK (http://www.amazon.co...PIP&sn=pmmbooks). You can also buy this book direct from the publisher http://www.pmmbooks.com -- pricing is 22.95 GBP or $35.75 US. Of course of you purchase through the RennTech.org online store - then RennTech.org gets a (very) small commission from Amazon. We'll post a link when US Amazon makes it available. I could not recommend any Porsche book higher than this one. Congratulations to Richard on a GREAT book! Below are some content images from the book...
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Alright, 2 weeks ago I bought an '03 996 Cabriolet from a physician friend of mine... After driving it for two weeks I noticed a large puddle of coolant on the garage floor. The coolant leak was coming from the back drivers side of the engine (pics to follow) After researching this topic thoroughly over the weekend I am confident that I can execute his repair myself... But first, let me stress to everyone that I AM NOT A MECHANIC, nor have I ever attempted any "mechanics" except for oil & filter changes. There are some really great write-ups that gave me the confidence and know-how to tackle this job. I'll be sure to give credit where it is due when this proj is complete... About the only thing I didn't find was a video documenting the process step-by-step so I figured this would be an excellent opportunity to make one and provide it to our forum community. Here it goes... Step-by-step diy video instructions soon to follow!!!! -
I have a 2003 996 Cab and just found out that the brake lights aren't working. After reviewing the other topics on this forum, I'm pretty sure I need a new brake light switch. Most of the other topics however also point to PSM and ABS fault lights that display but I have no fault lights on the dash. Would a faulty brake light switch not always trigger an ABS fault? Also, my front headlights sometimes don't always come on the first time I turn them on - sometimes I have to click them on and off a few times for them to finally come on. Could the two problems be related? -
O2 Sensor Codes 1999 996
motolz posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
P1121 P0160 P1117 1999 996 I don't think there is an easy answer to this but I figure I would try before admitting defeat and taking my girl into the doctor. I recently had my CEL come on and it was throwing an MAF code along with a P0160. Since I sprayed out my MAF about a year ago, I decided to replace it, and got the above codes. I replaced my bank 2 post cat sensor, which was on the topside of the exhaust on the drivers side (pipes cross in the back)...let me tell you it was tough to get out, even with an 02 tool. But I got it and replaced it with a a Bosch O2 sensor, same number and all. Cleard the codes and still I get the same. Also, I can nearly watch my fuel gague moving, I burned about 1/3 tank on a 40 mile trip... (I know we can all do that when we try, but this time I wasn't trying, I was driving sensible!!) From all of the reading I have done, this seems to be an electrical issue. I am not very well versed in ohms, volts and amps I am afraid. Am I at the end of my DIY path on this one? Any suggestions...is it possible the new 02 sensor is bad? It was bought from Pelican. Thanks in advance for all of the help! T -
Hello everyone. I've had these two faults appear three separate times now, all within about 100 miles of each other, and all when the car has been idling for a short period. P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) P0175: System too Rich (Bank 2) I've searched the forums, and it seems the likely cause is the MAF, but I wanted to post my Torque Pro logs of when the CEL occurred to see if any of you could help me pinpoint the problem. For what it's worth, I just changed my spark plugs last weekend (after having seen the CEL twice) and inspected the ignition coils, but no problems were found and the CEL appeared again this morning. My MAF looks clean to the eye, but I'm hesitant to use electrical contact (no residue) cleaner on it unless it's absolutely necessary. The first Torque Pro log below is from just before the CEL occurred when I pulled up to a stoplight. The second log is from a few seconds after the CEL occurred as I was pulling away from the stoplight. Log #1: Pre-CEL Time: 04-Apr-2012 09:02:15.096 Speed: 0.979mph Bearing: 341.0 G(calibrated): 0.00141555 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term(%): 0 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term(%): -1.5625 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term(%): 0 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term(%): -0.78125 Engine Coolant Temperature(°F): 184.99999595 Engine Load(%): 2.35294127 Engine RPM(rpm): 691 Mass Air Flow Rate(g/s): 6.25 Throttle Position(Manifold)(%): 2.35294127 Fuel used (trip)(gal): 0 GPS vs OBD Speed difference(mph): 0.35807136 Transmission Temperature(Method 3)(°F): 184.99999595 Acceleration Sensor(Total)(g): -0.01302952 Acceleration Sensor(X axis)(g): 0.00555366 Acceleration Sensor(Y axis)(g): -0.03887559 Acceleration Sensor(Z axis)(g): 0.01943775 Log #2: Post-CEL Time: 04-Apr-2012 09:03:56.093 Speed: 5.597mph Bearing: 2.0 G(calibrated): 0.06632715 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term(%): -3.125 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term(%): -7.8125 Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term(%): 0 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term(%): -0.78125 Engine Coolant Temperature(°F): 197.59999561 Engine Load(%): 10.1960783 Engine RPM(rpm): 823.5 Mass Air Flow Rate(g/s): 9.75 Throttle Position(Manifold)(%): 14.11764717 Fuel used (trip)(gal): 0 GPS vs OBD Speed difference(mph): 0.62137121 Transmission Temperature(Method 3)(°F): 197.59999561 Acceleration Sensor(Total)(g): 0.03373463 Acceleration Sensor(X axis)(g): 0.17216341 Acceleration Sensor(Y axis)(g): -0.31378168 Acceleration Sensor(Z axis)(g): 0.13189937 Thanks for any help you all can provide! -
With regards to a 1999 996 C2... This morning my wife "inadvertantly" took my keys to work with her. I grabbed my spare remote key, and to my surprise the dash would light up, but the car would not start. So I grabbed the valet key, and the car started. Just curious as to why this is the case. The battery was good in the remote key. What is the reason for this? I am sure it's related to anti-theft, but don't understand it. On a possibly related note, both key fobs stopped opening the doors probably 2 years ago, so I have been using the door lock since that time, but have only been using one key for that period. I have tried all the described methods for re-mating the keys to the anti-theft module with no dice. So I just decided to live with it, vice spending $100s to get new keys or key heads. Please enlighten me...thanks. -
Hi Does anyone have recent experience of replacing the convertible top on a 996 in UK? I have found several companies advertising on the web but would like to hear from happy / unhappy customers before parting with cash. From other posts I understand this is not DIY'able? I live in Ireland but options over here are severely limited. Thanks Andy -
I just drove from the Bay Area to Lake Tahoe in my 99 996 convertible. After the drive, I stopped and heard a loud continuous squeal from the front-end of the car while the engine was running. I turned off the AC and the squeal remained, but stopped when I turned the engine off. There's not much at the front of the car to make such a noise especially when the fans are off (AC off, coolant temp between the 8 and 0 on the temp gauge). I videoed the front of the car to let you hear the squeal. It seems louder behind the wheels and perhaps on the passenger side. I had this once before after a drive to Yosemite but was unable to track it down. Sounds like a pressure relief valve or leak??? Could it be the increase in altitude? 1000ft --> 5000ft Any ideas? -
Hello All, Found I have the Intermix problem on a 2000 996 with 73k miles. The oil cooler is solid so must be the engine the dealer tells me. Anyone have any experience with Motor Meister rebuilds? http://www.motormeister.com/suz/911_engines/911_engines_5.htm The price is about $6k to rebuild my engine, sound fair? -
Hello all I just joined this forum something i should have done ages ago. I drive a 2003 996 Carrera 2 Tiptronic with a lot of extras incl the Porsche Sports exhaust and suspension. I want to retrofit the footwell lights in my car, does anyone know what is needed , any related posts and any info on retrofitting these either DIY or at a dealer . I think they come as standard on the turbo 996 and i guess it cant be such a big job to do ... My car already has the dimming mirror , rain sensor i think i read somewhere this footwell wiring links to the relay for these or something any help will be greatly appreciated . I am a big Porshce enthusiast , also ride a Porsche bike and will be posting some pics of my ride etc once i get round this forum and thanks in advance for any advice/tips /links etc etc -
So, the 996 doesn't have any fender liners in the rear portion of the rear wheel arches. It hasn't really been a problem, except for winter driving. Slush and show is thrown on the hot mufflers and burn off when you stop at intersections. I kinda think it's cool with smoke billowing out from the rear arches, others think the car is on fire... Either way, with a new exhaust system a new potential problem occurred, check the vid: That's after about two weeks of driving. Those mufflers used to be shiny stainless steel. The mufflers themselves can take a bit of dirt but I'm worried about the valves, it looks like that piston might pull a lot of dirt into the vacuum actuator. Does Porsche do any tricks to protect the valves on the PSE exhaust or is there some sort of aftermarket rear-rear fender liner one can buy? Tips appreciated.
