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  1. Hello Everyone. I just got myself my first ever Porsche. It's a 986 -1999. My problem is that the key fob does not work. A local company tested it and according to them it works and sends a signal. when i insert the key in the door i did manage to lock the door on a couple of occasions. but that might be 2 out of 100 tries. So no unlocking. BUT the central locking button on the dash works and does the job and locks/unlocks the doors. I can't figure out what it is? I've read every single thread online i think. Does enyone have a clue what i should do as a next step? I can start buying parts to narrow it down. But you knowledge would be very much appriciated. Thanks.
  2. Hello-- So I got a PST2 clone(Laptop and Bosch KTS card with 20-pin Honda to OBD2 cord) this week— hooked it up to my 1999 986 and tried to change the map in the DME, but I did not see a screen to confirm my VIN, I put the IPAS code in twice and kept getting a message “test step aborted. (47)” My battery works for normal operation but is only at 12.6 volts— I also put it on a charger and tried 2A, 10A, and 40A. Also, the software seems to work in other regards; it picks up all the systems and I can do things like turn fans on, so I assume it's communicating properly. The software works in simulation mode (with the card out). From my understanding and from what I've seen in simulation mode, the software should auto populate your vin and force you to confirm it is correct before changing the map. As for the DME code, I got it once from one dealership over the phone, and now I have the printout from another with all of my IPAS codes— the DME code is the same. Any help would be appreciated.
  3. Let me preface with mentioning that I am not a mechanic .. The vehicle history I'm referencing was my fathers 2004 Boxster. He was elderly and drove the car infrequently such that the original mileage up to today is 11,500 mi. When my dad passed away he kindly left the vehicle to me. Shortly after receiving it, timed exactly with the first time I engaged the Tiptronic shifting, the dreaded flashing 4 occurred. On visiting a local Porsche mechanic/garage, and with OBD analysis, he reported the multifunction switch had failed and will require replacement. Coincidentally at this visit he inquired if the vehicle was not driven for extended periods - which it was. At the same time I requested the service records of the vehicle at the Porsche dealership. Within the records I found a service item that was replacement of the multifunction switch when the odo was sitting at 9,500 mi. The order was dated 22 months ago. To the point of this post - I believe the action of multifunction switch is to swivel to varied positions that set the next gear. That the mechanic had inquired about the usage characteristics, i.e. sitting unused for extended periods, leads me to sense that the switch is 'stuck' in one position. If this may be the case, would it not be possible to remove the unit and apply the factory lubricant and re-install .. or is the lack of movement catastrophic and requires replacement? Thanks! ..
  4. Hi - this is my first post so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I tried search (google) but think my search skills stink or really can find an answer so forgive me if this has been asked!! The Car: 97 Boxster with Tiptronic, 89k miles. The IMS, RMS, water pump were replaced when i bought the car. I've owned the car about a year and have no idea when the tranny fluid filter was done.(no tiptronic problems). The Problem: Today I decided to performed the trans. fluid / filter change. I followed the technical article posted on Pelican and didn't have any problems until it came time to run the car through the gears. When it came time to shift (R, 1st, 2nd, etc.) I was expecting the rear axles to turn and they didn't. So, that didn't bother me too much until it went to put the car in park. When i did i got a very audible clicking sound coming from what i assume was the transmission. It eventually stopped (as if the transmission stopped turning) but now i'm worried something is broken. Some notes: The old fluid looked very similar to what you seen in the pelican article (blackish) When i drained the transmission i recovered +/- 5 quarts of fluid when i expected roughly 3.5.I replaced all 5 with Pentosin ATF 1 Not much 'sludge' in the pan or accumulation around the magnets. nothing smelled burnt. Could this be a simple shifter linkage problem? (all the gear indicator lights seem to light up properly when i shift/select manual mode) Does it need MORE ATF ?(I'd like to add more ATF (if it needs it) but am terrified that if i try this procedure again I'll wreck the trans (if it isn't already).) One last question - when the transmission is in park, should i be able to turn the axles? If anyone can help a noob I'd appreciate it. :thumbup: Thanks! joe
  5. I have an 03 Boxster with 95k on the clock. When you first start driving the car, everything is tight and quiet. After about 25 - 30 miles, the front start to knock lightly and rumble. Most noticeable between 0 and 30mph in queuing traffic. You can feel the knocks on the steering wheel and brake pedal. The further you go the worse it gets. The sound is like a bolt being jarred in a plastic bottle. Up to now it has had new bake disks and pads. Track rod ends and wishbones replaced and something That looks like coffin struts changed. Wheels and tyres have been checked. When the knocking started, the brake warning light came on. The front sensors have been changed so the warning lights don't come on when the knocking starts. I am not mechanically minded but In my mind its a brake problem as the issue only shows up after driving for about 30 miles and things are starting to warm up. The garage cannot identify the issue and have run out of ideas. Can anyone suggest or identify the problem as I have been replacing bits without success
  6. Hi there! 1st off, thank you for reading this! 2nd, is there a way to add a little more HP? Thx all!
  7. I have a 2003 Boxster base model (2.7) with auto. Current showing code P0600 and DTE 61. Had a few different Porsche mechanics look at the issue and have not found a solution. Cleaned the electrical connection at the transmission and verified the ground connections at the tiptronic control module. Had the DME, tiptronic module and immobilizer checked and they were found to be working. Does the Can-bus connection between the DME and the tiptronic module extend to the immobilizer or other modules? All I could find is information up to the 2001 model year. Looking for a reason why the DME Is not communicating with the tiptronic and how to test the Can-bus circuit. Is there a wiring schematic available for the 2003/2004 boxster? Thanks, jason
  8. Hi all 986 guys. I will post for the first time. I have '98 986K(Tip-s),Can I swap 5-Speed(or 6-Speed) manual transmission? In other words, prepare missions, pedals, manual transmission CPUs, etc. like a typical car model (for ex, BMW). Is it possible to update only the mission, not the upgrade to 3.4L? Has anyone ever seen or heard of such a vehicle? I can find 986K 5speed as much as I want, but I want to stick to my one. Thank you!!
  9. 1999 986 2.5 Boxster. (5 spd) Not many problems with the car but cruise control doesn’t work and the spoiler only extends halfway or so. Current actual problem with the car is that I can feel vibration or shaking in the steering wheel (and in the car to a much lesser extent) after shifting into fourth gear. After shifting into fourth gear, the shaking seems to persist even as I slow down, or after shifting into fifth. It will persist even if I shift into neutral but will stop after I come to a stop. It’s strange to me that this is the case when gears 1-3 don’t have this problem. I am guessing that it’s an issue with bearings or alignment in the front wheels since i’m feeling the vibrations in the wheel but hopefully someone here has a better idea.
  10. The rear window on my 2001 S has separated from the canvas, and the tan top is dingy and past its prime. I no longer have a garage, so I am forced to outsource it. I would appreciate some informed opinions. I'm looking at a GAAH A5 Acoustic glass window top. The dealer is saying $2,700-$3k installed. A reputable convertible/interior specialist is coming in at $2,200. The dealer talked about needing to buy additional sound insulation, clips and etc., which is either building in additional profit, or it may be totally justified because they have experience and might provide additional quality. I don't have an excess of cash for a 18 y/o car so I'm soliciting experienced opinions: Assuming the local top specialist is truly skilled at their game, should I expect that they can handle this, along with connecting the heating element? I doubt they have done many A5 Acoustic glass retrofits, whereas the dealer has likely done a few. If I go with the local specialists, are there some unique things I need to specify they order/replace/pay attention to? Should I give more weight to (a) Porsche dealer that only occasionally does a top or (b) the people who do tops all the time, but just not Porsches? All informed opinions are welcome. Thanks!
  11. Tried googeleing it but couldn’t find what I was after. Was curious if anyone knows what type of flat 6 the 986 boxster has? Is it a a true boxer engine? Or a horizontally opposed flat V? True boxer meaning it has individual crank pins for each piston and is a true 180degree angle. Thanks in advance
  12. Recently I had been noticing issues with my cooling system the coolant temp guage would go past the 0 on 180 and I wouldn’t hear fans or anything. (Already tested fans and resistors and relays). The temperature Will continue to creep up if I sit still, with no signs of fans, AC OFF. I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Problem fixed!! Then same issue again it seems after a week of driving. Now i currently have ordered another temp sensor just Incase I maybe did something to cause the other new one too fail, I’ll be changing it again today. However I was doing the climate control hack to check my actual temperatures today while doing a short troubleshooting drive. And I noticed my oil temperature said 0, which is physically impossible 🙄 Is it possible the oil temp guage is throwing off the coolant sensor? Is it even possible for the oil temp sensor too go bad but not the oil level sensor? (They are a 2 in 1 sensor) THANK YOU IN ADVANCE
  13. I need to replace the ATF wiring harness in my 2002 986 w/tiptronic due to a defective temperature sensor that forms part of it. I have been unable to find any information as to what it entails and / or how it can be replaced. Appreciate any insight.
  14. The radiator grills on the 986 sit very low and thus tend to collect quite a bit of debris and garbage faster than other cars. The design of the radiators and front air intakes is such a way that any debris which enters the grill get jammed between the radiator and the inside of the front bumper body panel. Cleaning out your radiators and the garbage stuck behind the front bumper should be done periodically as leaving anything in there can cause inefficiencies to your cooling (A/C and engine) and also rust your radiators once the debris gets wet. By adding mesh to the standard grill, using gutter guards for rain gutters, you can reduce the amount of debris which can enter your grill. This is a simple process and adds not only functional value, but I think it looks pretty great too. For me it took roughly 4 hours to access, clean the radiators and air intakes, and add the mesh to my front grills(not including painting the grills). Parts you'll need: • Gutter Guard (this is the same stuff you use for rain gutters on a house to keep leaves and junk from building up in the gutter) - Buy two sheets of this. • High gloss, black spray paint • Tiny black zip ties - nothing too thick, but don't go too wimpy either. You'll need about 4 zip ties. Tools you'll need: • Torx set • Vacuum • Aluminum shears • Wet rag and soap to wipe down the air intake duct which is likely dirty. I won't cover how to remove the front bumper, as that's available widely across Youtube, Renntech, and other DIY sites. Here's the Youtube video I used (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=280&v=X2q54XtupVo). So we'll get started with this tutorial once you have the front bumper cover removed. 1. The first step is to remove the grills which are held in place with 4 plastic tabs and pull out from the inside of the front bumper cover. This is fairly straight forward – just be sure to follow the general rule of not trying to force anything! Use the images below to help. From this image, you can see 4 plastic tabs are used to secure the grill in place, while 3 tabs on top are flat and just used to align the grill. 2. With the grills out, it’s time to trace them on paper so you can cut your mesh correctly. I used a big sheet of painters drop paper, which I’ll later use when painting the grills, to trace around the whole perimeter of the grill piece. It’s important to trace around the whole piece rather than just the vent portion, because the grill is rounded and so the mesh will need to bend in order to make this a tight fit. If your mesh is too small debris will be able to make it past your grill. 3. Now it’s time to cut your gutter guard. Using the metal shears, cut the mesh to match the outline you traced in step 2. I found it easy to use a box knife to score and transfer the tracing from the paper to the gutter guard (since the gutter is painted, you just use the box knife to score the paint). Your cuts don’t need to be perfect. Mine aren’t rounded, but you’ll see that they still create a great seal for stopping junk. 4. This next step is optional, though it makes a big difference in terms of looks! I painted by grills. There’s nothing fancy you need to do when painting them. I applied three coats of paint just to ensure it was solid. Let them dry for at least a day or two or else the paint will easily chip. 5. The next step is to cut a whole out for the outside temp sensor which is sticks through the left grill (when looking at the car head on). Before cutting the hole for the sensor, be sure to test out your mesh by holding it against and fitting it (bending it to form) with the respective grill it’s for. This doesn’t need to be an exact science, and in this case it’s always better to cut less and test it rather than cut too much. I determined where the hole needed to be cut by holding the fitted mesh against the grill and scoring the part of the mesh which aligned with the hole on the grill. I cut a small rectangle that is about a half inch, or in my case three snips of the mesh. I probably couldn’t gone a bit smaller, but you can’t really notice. 6. Next step is to adhere the mesh to the grill. I did this a bit differently than others have since I didn’t’ want the mesh to be permanently attached to the grill. I used small black zip ties which aren’t visible when viewing the car but hold the mesh securely in place and allow it to be replaced if they become damaged or a future owner doesn’t want them. In the picture below you can see I used 4 zip ties for each grill. Two on the very bottom which help support the mesh from sliding down, and two at the very top which help the mesh from being pushed back into the intake duct. 7. The most difficult part of reassembly is aligning the outside temp sensor with the hole you made. Prior to having mesh installed this was simple because you could just put your fingers in the grill and guide it. There’s no trick to this, just take your time aligning it as you put the bumper panel back on. It doesn’t need to be aligned perfectly since you can use needle nose pliers to adjust it after the bumper panel is in place.
  15. View this tutorial Radiator Grill Mesh and Painting The radiator grills on the 986 sit very low and thus tend to collect quite a bit of debris and garbage faster than other cars. The design of the radiators and front air intakes is such a way that any debris which enters the grill get jammed between the radiator and the inside of the front bumper body panel. Cleaning out your radiators and the garbage stuck behind the front bumper should be done periodically as leaving anything in there can cause inefficiencies to your cooling (A/C and engin Author mrplow911 Category Boxster (986) - Mods Submitted 03/23/2019 06:59 AM Updated 03/23/2019 07:46 AM
  16. Hello, I'm new on this forum and stumbled upon a new problem (or old) with my 2.5l 986 Boxster from 1997. The problem occurs when the engine is started dead cold after sitting a few hours/overnight. Engine starts immediately but the RPMs start to surge / hunt between 1100 and 700 RPM. This continues for about 10 seconds after which the idle smoothes out to the normal cold idle RPM. The first pull away requires a tad more throttle then normal to prevent stalling. After this first pull, everything is almost normal and engine performance becomes better and better. When the engine is hot, the idle sits at 780 RPM with a minor fluctuation now and then (seems to be more than normal) I've been to two shops (official Porsche dealer and local Porsche specialist). Porsche dealer couldn't find anything and the specialist found the camshaft sensor on the left bank to be unplugged - but now comes the strange thing - the cabling is nowhere to be found!!!!!!? Took the car home to check myself but didn't find anything. No camshaft related codes to be found in the diagnosis and no CEL either. Attached one pic showing the sensor and it's missing plug Could someone help me out? - Is it possible for the engine not to throw a CEL when sensor is disconnected? - where is the sensor wire to be found?
  17. I have a 1997 Boxster with 30,000 miles. The battery is charged and the car starts and runs fine. However, I cannot open the hood or trunk with the levers next to the drivers seat when the door is open! When I press the interlock switch on the dash nothing happens. The light stays on. Any ideas??
  18. Hello All, My A/C has been getting warmer over the last week to the point of just warm air. The compressor is engaging as I can see, hear, and watch the tach drop slightly as it does. I figured it just needed a quick recharge, but the low side pressure is ridiculously high at 90psi. Before I go and pull the world apart does anyone have experience with this scenario? Does this point to a bad compressor or Refrigerant Control Valve? I'm not really finding anything in the search dialog. I have a vacuum and used it on other cars, but have never seen this "overcharge" high pressure issue. I guess I'll try to lower the pressure first, but I have my doubts it will fix anything. Thanks in advance for any input. -k
  19. Hey everyone, i own a 2010 porsche Boxter 2.9L with the PDK transmission.. yesterday after leaving the car for a 4 days i started it and went for a drive.. when i turned it on again, i got a warning message “emergency transmission run” and the car became very jerky through gearshifts and wouldnt accelerate properly.. after turning it on and off the message went away and it drove just fine but then it kept re-appearing mid drives and becomes very jerky and clunky...ive noticed since i had the car that the gearbox was sometimes clunky or would make a noise when changing gear but the dealership said that was fine and normal since its a PDK, the car is at 59,000km so its time for a transmission fluid change... could this be a low voltage problem, or transmission fluid? The reverse gear works just fine.. has this happened to any other owners?
  20. Late 2004 Boxster Base Tiptronic with 45,000 miles I have racked up 15,000 miles over the last 3 years of ownership. The coolant was flushed about a year prior to purchase. I think it's time to flush the coolant. I plan to buy the Airlift tool - it's a time vs cost issue, time wins. I know from searching that JFP has recommended to others to replace the water pump as preventative maintenance on a car this age. Fair enough. Porsche pump, clean the mating surfaces carefully and: 1. Use gasket sealant or no sealant? 2. Should I replace the coolant reservoir even though I cannot find anything wrong with it? I'll replace the thermostat at the same time. 3. Should it be the 160 degree thermostat? 3a. I notice that the car runs between 190 - 210 degrees (using Scangauge) most of the time in warm weather, so will the 160 stat be a benefit? 4. Which hoses should be replaced? 5. Anything else? Since the start of ownership I've done mostly preventative and general maintenance with very few actual failures of any kind. With that being said, I think mileage is beginning to expose some common failures cropping up like what happened yesterday - the turn signal stalk won't hold in-place, so now I need to replace it but at least getting the 4-stalk version will give me the OBC functions.
  21. Me and my dad have recently bought a 2001 Porsche Boxster that has not been run in 2 years, as a "fairly easy" project to start with. So where to begin we did all the basics for a car that hasn't run in 2 years, we replaced the spark plugs and tubes, so then when we tried to throw some gas in it wont let us, we have checked the E6 fuse as was suggested on other forums, we slowly threw in some gas at a time, about 5 gallons in total. When we tried to start it it didn't, so when we tried to troubleshoot we found that it has no spark. So does anyone have any idea or suggestions on how to fix any or all of these things?
  22. Having an issue with the heater in my 2000 Boxster S. It fogs up the windows when the heater is on. If I turn the AC button on the fog stops but the air temperature is no longer hot or warm even. The moisture coming out seems to have an odd smell to it. It's either old nasty water or perhaps antifreeze. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  23. Hi All My first post here so please bear with me but pretty desperate for help. Have 2004 Boxster S and its, in general, running a bit rough (feels fuel rich). It also will also, on occasion, not go. Pulling up at a busy intersection and car reduces to Idle. Then put the foot down and the car stays at idle. Normally an engine restart gets things going again (although not always and sometimes requires a few goes). Bought a computer reader and found error codes P0102: Factory Fault code 115 - Mass air flow sensor - below limit P2135: Accelerator Pedal - Signal Implausible P0121: Factor Fault code 117 - Throttle value or accelerator pedal potentiometer - signal implausible P1266: Factory Fault Code 409 - Fuel shutoff function monitor - signal implausible Took the car to Porsche. They suggest a MAF sensor was the root cause and replaced it. It felt better for a few days then problem returned. They replaced another MAF sensor.. Same problem. They then said the MAF reads 0 and have checked the cables so its me DME and it needs replacing (not cheap) Have taken the car back home and looked at the likely affecting values myself from the computer. 1. MAF. The computer shows to different values for MAF Mass air flow (HFM) is always 0 regardless of if the car is working correctly or not and at any accelerator level Mass air flow seems to move within a range of 18 (idle) to 100 (full throttle) 2. Throttle (since it had error codes on this) Pedal encoder potentiometer 1 and 2 always move and the pedal value goes from 0-100% when its working but stays at 0 when its not. Since the potentiometers always move I am assuming the DME simply can't add things up so sticks the pedal value at 0. ie. The MAF sensor reading above confuses the DME and it reduces the throttle to 0. That feel consistent with the behaviour of the car (its just sticks at idle) Any one with any clues? Certainly don't want to replace the DME unless absolutely necessary.... HELP?
  24. Just got a 98 Boxster for my Birthday. Now I have two Porsches! First question is: can I drive it for a few more days on the old oil until I get it changed this weekend. The car has 57K miles. Last owner changed oil 1.5K miles ago. So he drove the car very little over the last year since the last oil change, but it's been a year. It's fairly dry here in Colorado, and the car has always been garaged. Should I change immediately, or can drive it a few hundred miles until I get the oil changed this weekend? IMS failure a huge issue on these 98's? The oil looks clear and like new when I check on the dipstick. The engine sounds excellent. I can hear the chain rattle momentarily when I start it cold. Also, plan to use Driven DT40 oil that I have an extra case of (bought it for my Cayenne, but have enough to do the Boxster) and it's 5W40. Thanks! I'm really enjoying the car -- it's not a 420 HP MKIV that used to have, but it's almost as fun. Mike
  25. Is anyone familiar with the one-piece LED replacement headlights for the 986 Boxster. There are a number of them available on eBay from a variety of vendors, including xtrememotorcars and MK AUTOWORLD. They claim to be a simple, no modification, swap. I'm skeptical, but if it works, it would be an affordable and good-looking replacement solution.
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