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Found 86 results

  1. Can you direct me to where the Option Codes for a 2002 996 Cab? Thank-you
  2. Need some help finding a part number, and for the matter, the name of the part! The picture just shows the passengers side of a piece that surrounds the dashboard (I think its all one part, anyway). It's between the windshield and the dash. Does anyone know what this part is called and what the part number may be? This is for 2001 996 Carrera.
  3. Hey Everyone, 1999 996 C2 Cab Does anyone have a picture or diagram for installing a new clam shell motor - comes with an update kit with new mount bracket etc. Looks like the old piece needs to cut off and the new section fitted and bolted/welded. Cheers.
  4. Hi Guys, Aircraft engine Tech, currently replacing the clutch on my AutoX 1999 996 C2, first time tackling a clutch/IMS job. While the clutch & Pressure plate are worn out, I inspected the flywheel, based on Porsche's TSB 911 8/02 1360, & found it to be a bit worn, but serviceable. Common knowledge suggest to replace the flywheel every second clutch change or every 100K miles. Considering the high price of the flywheel, is it Worth it to replace it right now or I can expect it to last until the next clutch change?
  5. So, in the process of getting ready for the summer at NE, I tried two months ago to open my convertible (C4-99). The convertible stuck at 2/3 and didn't go back. I got the car to my indie, stayed there for two weeks and got it back un-repaired. He told me that he tried everything, did recalibration and still, he couldn't fix it. I gone to the dealership too, paid $540 for diagnosis and they told me that they have to replace latch and/or module and since I'm loosing some oil from the cylinders, both cylinders. They quoted me $5400. I hugged them and left :) Now, the last 2 weeks: Durametric comes up with error 16 (unknown error - latest version of the software) In the beginning, when I tried to calibrate with durametric, it was pulling the top back and then it was timing out but without any warning light on the dash. After this was done the only way to close the convertible was manual. This happened more than 10 times during my tries. Now, durametric doesn't do anything at all, I just get the 'working' icon and nothing happens. I follow the workshop manual and I changed the following with no changes on behavior: Module Top latch Still nothing. To add on this, when it stops I hear a 'click-click' sound from the back. The sound is from the module itself, but as I said, I replaced the module and nothing changed. The clam shell opens and closes/locks fine. I don't get a warning light when I'm closing the convertible. I'm getting a warning light only when it stuck. All windows are going up and down. The hydraulic oil is always full. Any ideas or suggestions are strongly appreciated.
  6. I bought the Porsche factory manuals (all 17 volumes in 3-ring binders) in 2000 for about $600. I then spend about $100/year each for the next 6 years to get updates. My factory manuals ended up about costing $1200. Porsche stopped printing manuals a few years ago and the set was well over $1200 at that time. That does not really cover everything - you also need the OBD II manuals for DME 5.2.2. DME 7.2, and DME 7.8 depending on your model year. When I bought my OBD II manuals (again in 2000) they were about $200 each. So to cover all models it cost me about $600. Porsche also stopped printing these manuals a few years ago and at the time each was over $800. So all totaled I likely spent over $2000 for the factory service and OBD II manuals for the 996. For $138 (on Amazon) you get the Bentley Porsche 911 Carrera Service Manual (996) hardbound manual with photos that the factory manuals don't have - and from I can see so far 99% of the information that is in the factory manuals. BOTH service manuals and OBD II manuals. The manual layout is excellent logically each section from General Information and Maintenance to Wiring Diagrams and OBD II. Roughly 11 sections with great detail and photos the factory manuals never had. 1024 pages (and over 7.6 pounds) the manual is well composed and covers even some of the more tricky tasks. The photos are certainly worth a thousand words many times over. Clear, concise, detailed and from what I can see complete - this IS the service manual to have if you own or work on the 996 series cars. I highly recommend it. Updates and Videos can be found here Here are a few photos I took of the book..
  7. This article describes with photos how to replace a wheel bearing using the SIR Tools B90-P2 tool. There are no other "step by step" articles on any forums, so this article complements the others you find on the Internet to show how exactly to do it with this particular tool. Step 1. Remove the wheel carrier from the car. This photo shows where this article starts, it is specific to removing the bearing, not removing the wheel carrier. Step 2. Remove the wheel hub from the carrier, these three photos show how to put the tool in place. Basically, you draw the wheel hub out of the inner bearing race, it comes out easily. Step 3. Remove the bearing from the wheel carrier. Heat the aluminum wheel carrier to 100 degrees Celsius, do it evenly, it takes about 3 minutes, measure the temperature with an infrared thermometer. Note, there are other articles on the Internet which use the wrong standard for temperature (they incorrectly say Fahrenheit, it should be Celsius as per the Porsche Workshop Manual). Your basically drawing the bearing out, into the large cylinder. You can use the wheel hub as a support and conveniently turn the bolts with your 24mm and 27mm spanners. Step 4. Insert the new bearing into the wheel carrier. Prior to doing this, clean the bore of the wheel carrier with polishing cloth (your just cleaning it, not removing any aluminum). Put the new bearing in your kitchen freezer overnight prior to inserting it. This is an alternate approach to Porsche Workshop Manual which has you heat up the wheel carrier to 100 degrees Celsius. The freezer method is easier on your hands since you don't have to touch hot metal (if you do use the heating method instead of the cooling method, wear work gloves as usual). The tools in this step apply force on the outer part of the bearing and the aluminum casting. The photo shows the bearing half way in. Step 5. Insert the wheel hub into the bearing. Remember to put the splash shield in place prior to actually installing the wheel hub into the bearing. Notice how the tools thrust bearing which is silver in the second photo below is used with the smaller circular die. Basically you draw the hub into the bearing with force being applied between the inner race of the bearing and the cast iron wheel hub. Step 6. Re-install the newly restored wheel carrier into the car (this is not covered by this article since there are many others on the internet). Step 7. Enjoy your car - Mark Nickson, Member of SAE, PCA, and MBCA for over 30 years.
  8. Hi all, I'm in the midst of designing a DRL setup for my 996.2 (which is a topic I recognize has been done to death). That said, I'm not a fan of LED light bars, and while I don't mind halos, this is a Porsche, not a BMW. Therefore, I'm taking inspiration from the Four Point Principle. I'm using 8x total Luxeon Star 10mm square LED blocks, neutral white, with 10mm square Carclo 10415 elliptical-pattern lenses, and a 350mA FlexBlock on each side. DRLs should be on the order of 400 lumen per side and 1500Cd at the center, so I'll be using slightly lower currents than the LEDs are made for. As soon as I get dimensions 1,2,3 in the attached image, or even better a damaged 996.2 headlight unit, I'll figure out heat sinking, but it will be relatively unimportant at 4W per side, 150C maximum junction temperature, and 100F approximate steady state temperature insight the HID housing (per Pedro's Garage). As far as wiring goes, here are my requirements: DRLs turn on with the engine DRLs turn off with the low beams The low beams can be turned on whether the engine is on or not. There are several ways to do this, of course, and I think I've picked the easiest: 1x Bosch relay with both NC and NO pins, connecting to 1x 928-610-511-00 relay carrier added to an open spot in the relay block Pin 30 connects to a fuse tap at A6 - Seat heater (switched on with ignition) Pin 85 connects to any conveniently-located bolt to chassis, possibly in the fuse box. TBD. Pin 86 connects to a fuse tap at A9 - Low Beam Right (switched on with headlights) Pin 87a is wired to the left and right FlexBlocks in parallel. Pin 87 is not necessary The relays I have take about 150mA to switch, which *shouldn't* noticeably affect the low beams, but does put additional stress on the headlight switch. If that causes problems I might need to do the following instead: 2x Bosch relays with NC/NO pins Pin 30-1 connects to A6 Pin 30-2 connects to D5 - Cigar lighter (always on) 85-1 splices into 85-2, connected to chassis ground 86-1 splices into 86-2, interrupting the YE/WH wire running from the light selector stalk before it splits to go to A9/A10/Canada DRL block 87A-1 is wired to left and right FlexBlocks as above 87-2 is wired to the other side of the YE/WH split Thoughts? Anyone have input on headlight switch reliability or wiring plans?
  9. Basic Info 2002 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe C2 Manual 6 speed US So my friend and I started to the process of changing the IMS to the Solution and noticed while we were removing the second from the top left bolt of the transmission (facing the rear of the car) that there was a lot of corrosion. The bolt was very difficult to get out and actually took some of the threads with it. Once we removed the tranny we saw inside the housing of the tranny and the crank crystallized particles. It was also around the bolt that was tough to get out. After a closer look it appeared that the oil cooler had leaked antifreeze at some point which over time, seeped around the tranny/crank housing (did not enter the tranny though). It (the flakes) also was near where the cooler mount to the crank. This led us to belive that possibly the oil cooler is bad or going bad or possibly the oil cooler o-rings. Any ideas or comments? This is where I plan on getting the replacement parts. I can post some pics even if it would help.
  10. A while ago, I had a Durametric scan on my 996 (1999), and during the Short Test I received fault codes 22 (Potentiometer right mirror Open circuit vertical) and 20 (Potentiometer right mirror Open circuit horizontal) under the Seat Memory section. My question is, where are these potentiometers, if I wish to inspect them for either being worn out or having a bad connection? I can manually adjust the passenger mirror with the mirror controls, it's just that the passenger mirror doesn't work with seat memory. I'm taking a guess that the mirrors only have motors in them and these potentiometers are probably in the modules under the seat or in the door sill, but I'm not sure which, and where specifically. Also, are these potentiometers tiny little trim pots on a circuit board, or some kind of larger specialized potentiometer component with a part number? Or does one typically replace a larger module for a fault like this? The closest thread I could find on the subject was this one: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40724-seat-memory-function-issue/?hl=%2Bmirror+%2Bpotentiometer - but it appears his issue was fixed by plugging something back into a control module that was intentionally unplugged, and did not reference the specific potentiometers. Any more specifics or even links to circuit/wiring diagrams for this area would be great. Thanks in advance.
  11. TPS woes

    Hello all, newbie online member. A month ago went into Limp mode without any CEL's and had fault codes for the TPS. Replaced it, they came back. Shop replaced the alternator, regulator, and battery thinking a voltage fluctuation might be responsible. Codes came back. Changed out the throttle body for good measure. Now they are back. The shop is otherwise reputable, known for racing more than anything I guess, and they are big on the 993's. But an electrical issue I've found drives most shops nuts. With $5K into this repair already though I don't want a fishing expedition. Any obvious answers left? Porsche manual basically says if TPS error code, replace TPS. The only thing left upstream seems to be the harness and ECU. Should I go there next? Any easy diagnostics? After the TPS was replaced, it happened less often and with 100 miles in between faults. Meaning the older sensor seemed to fault more often if that is a clue. Any and all help appreciated. Kelly The PO had an early version aftermarket kit put on with k28's, upgraded exhaust, and a chip based tune.... dreading it's related to that.
  12. Hi Everyone, I'm doing the 996 to 997 GT3-RS front conversion and need to re-pin the headlight connector as the 997 use A5 Pin instead of A4 as the 996 (for the High Beam) My question is how can I remove the pin from A4 and put it back in A5 ? How to re-pin the headlight connector ? I did a lot of search and didn't find anything specific on Porsche 996. Thanks Alex
  13. Hello! I am running into some electrical issues that all happened at once. Here are the items that I found not functioning: Cluster Illumination, power seats, radio (PCM does not power on), engine lid switch (frunk works), HVAC (the screen is functioning, but not blowing any air). The car starts fine and runs. I initially thought maybe the ignition switch was faulty, so I went ahead and replaced but nothing changed. I have checked many fuses and they all look fine. There are no trouble codes. If it matters, this is the scenario when I noticed all the problems: I just finished driving about 70 miles with no problems. Park the car outside and it started to rain. I needed to move the car so I got back in and noticed when I turned the light switch to the first notch, cluster did not illuminate but the headlights worked when I turned it to the next notch. Then I started testing to find the other symptoms. Everything was working on the drive I took a few hours before. Though after the drive, I was messing with the light switch to see if the fog lights worked. I never use them and for whatever reason I wanted to test if it worked, so I was turning the light switch way more than usual I guess. I drive the car a few times a week as it is my main car. Thanks!
  14. H! I have an 996 - 99mod manual 3,4L. When i start up it seems like it misfires. It`s kind of a knocking sound. Sometimes it stops on idle. When i push the throttle for a ouple of seconds, it smokes a lot and then the knocking goes away. After that, I let it Idle - but it slowly rises from 800rpm to around 2000rpm, then it drops to 800rpm again and do the same thing over and over again, Does anybody have a clue? This is the fault codes i found: P1601 -CAN timeout - instrument cluster P0600 - CAN timeout Tiptronic P0102 Hot film MAF sensor (erased and didn`t come back) 60 - Central locking limit pos 13 - Left door secured, but not locket 14 - Left door secured, but not locket 16 - Signal from airbag 1 - Doors secures and terminal 15 on 43 - passenger - side release stuck 44 - Driver-side release stuck 61 - Central locking limit position Unlock not reached
  15. For 2004, 996, GT3 Searching for the part number of the 4 quarter-turn plastic rivets that attach the black plastic trim piece over the front hood latch release, between the front bumper and the trunk gasket. Thanks!
  16. Hello all! I've got a 1999 996 Carrera that hasn't had any mechanical issues outside of a water pump replacement earlier this year. Just today I noticed that when in 3rd to 5th gear (I haven't had it on freeways to see if it's in 6th too, but most likely it does) in the mid rpm ranges (2500 - 3000+) there is a vibration that I can feel through the gas pedal and throughout the car. When the gas is let up and/or when the vehicle is coasting the vibration goes away. The vibration seems to only occur on acceleration and does seem to be coming from the rear. The check engine light came on as well, at first it was flashing and is now constant. Any tips on what this could be? Drive shaft? Engine mount? Catalytic converter? .....?
  17. This just started - When you turn the key to start the vehicle, there is a noise (hum) from the sub-woofer that's stays on until the starter cranks. When the car starts, everything related to the radio is normal, but the LED on the Rear Defroster switch stays on all of the time. I was told the Rear Defroster relay is bad so I purchase a replacement. I'm having a problem locating this relay. Is it located under the dash or behind the rear seat? Which relay is it?
  18. 2003 996 cabriolet. I was putting my top up yesterday and I heard a strange noise as it was finishing putting up the windows. The sound was almost like a popping sound (not very loud). I went to open the door (drivers side) and the window did not drop. I tried the outside handle and the inside handle and no drop. The window goes up and down fine. I have done a search and read several great write ups on micro switches and regulators, I am still a little stumped on this one. Is it a micro switch issue or possibly an issue with the top controller. I did not have a chance to investigate or troubleshoot because I had to go on a work trip. Anyone else have a similar issue? Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
  19. Yes, there are cheap aux cables available on ebay, Crutchfield (Blaupunkt cable), and even direct from Becker. There are also ipod adapters available from Crutchfield (Blau cable $5), Becker (over $100), and Scoshe ($180). I think the only one that offers both aux and ipod is the Scoshe and it's $180 and you would have to adapt it to the Porsche pinouts. Blaupunkt ipod $5: http://www.crutchfie...blaupunkt+cable Becker: http://www.beckeraut...trafficPro.html Scosche Audi: http://www.scosche.c...io/product/1822 The reason I started this thread is that I wanted to add both AUX and ipod capability. I wanted to be able to plug in my ipod or plug in a smart phone. I also wanted the ipod connection to charge my ipod. A couple of years ago I bought such an adapter off of ebay for my Accord, it was plug and play and cost about $75. I went on ebay and found that same adapter but they didn't offer it for Porsche. They did, however, offer it for Audi and VW. It was listed for $29 so I figured I would take a chance and try to get it to work with the Becker CDR-220. http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item2eb213a948 I'm not trying to promote their adapter, just trying to help out those that are looking to add ipod with charge capability and AUX. I cross referenced the VW/Audi pinouts to the Porsche CDR-220 pinous and got it to work. The key thing is that VW/Audi have all of their CD changer pins on the blue mini iso connector. Porsche moved these over to the green mini iso. See images borrowed from TDIClub. Blue mini iso as it is wired by Axxess for use on VW: Pin#13 - Data To Changer - Axxess wire Yellow Pin #15 - Data Clock To Changer - Axxess wire Blue Pin #14 - Data From Changer - Axxess wire Brown Pin #16 - Power to Changer (+12) Axxess wire Grey Pin #20 - Right Audio - Axxess wire White Piin #17 - Power Control -Axxess wire Green Pin #18 - Audio Ground Axxess wire Black Pin #19 - Left Audio - Axxess wire Red Removed the Yellow, Blue, Brown, Grey, and Green wires/pins from the Blue mini iso. I obtained a green mini iso and plugged the pins in as follows: Pin #10 - Yellow wire from Axxess adapter (cdr-220 data) Pin # 7 - Green wire from Axxess adapter (cdr-220 bus-on) Pin #12 - Brown wire from Axxess adapter (cdr-220 changer reset) Pin #9 - Left blank (but I'm pretty sure this is ground and the ground wire could have gone here. I chose to attach it to the radio body instead) Pin #11 - Blue wire from Axxess adapter (cdr-220 clock) Pin #8 - Grey wire from Axxess adapter (battery or power 12v) FYI, the 3rd image below is of the pinouts for the VW radio...NOT THE PORSCHE. http://www.modifiedlife.com/2002-volkswagen-jetta-car-radio-wiring-schematic-for-monsoon-audio/ I used this image to cross reference to the CDR-220 pinout provided by the pelicanparts forum under 986 diy radio. http://www.pelicanpa...dio_Install.htm I sent an email to tech support at Axxess to let them know of the pinouts I used and suggested they make a version for the Porsche as I know there's interest on this forum. Hopefully they'll work something up.
  20. Hi all, First of all I apologize if I do anything wrong since I only just created this account in order to ask this community a question. We own a Porsche 996 Targa 2002 and as we all know the 996 is prone to engine problems such as IMS and oil and coolant mixture. Today when I was checking if the engine still had enough oil and coolant and decided they needed a fillup I saw something that I did not really like. I've uploaded two pictures one of how the coolant looks and another picture of where you add the oil. Is the yellowish stuff you see ok or is this the first sign of the oil and coolant mixture? The car seems to run fine and never had any problems with engine temperature, hope you guys can help me out on this one! With kind regards, A somewhat nervous 996 owner.
  21. Hello Members, Just found some instructions for changing spark plugs without having to remove the rear bumper/license plate light, and intercoolers. The process is more or less - remove rear wheels, and then remove various heat shields - does this seem viable? Here is the link I found: http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.com/Porsche996TMajorMaintenanceupdate.pdf Using this method will save a bunch of time let me know, ewholz
  22. Looking through the PET I noticed that M96 3.6 997's use a different pressure plate but the same clutch as the 3.6 996. I have read online that the 997 clutch pedal is lighter than the 996, wondering if I can install a 997 pressure plate in a 996, anyone tried it?
  23. I need to get my rear window stitched on my 2000 cab. Looking for a referral in San Jose, CA / Bay Area. Any advice is welcome. Thanks in advance
  24. Hi all I started another post similar where I thought the Horn was the culprit of my battery drain, but it was actually the Alternator causing me a drain, so thought I would summarise the issue on a new post so that this might help other 996 owners and save them a lot of money and time! This is the original post and is detailed, so take a look at this afterwards: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48867-2000-porsche-996-battery-drains-the-alarm-horn-is-a-constant-3v-and-hums/page-3 ​ Issue/Fault: So my 2000 Carrera Cabriolet was draining the battery in around 6 days, I was showing around 390ma of draw with the car locked and powered down, it should be upto 50ma, so I'm draining a Lot more! The drain was coming from the Alternators thin Blue wire, the one that goes to the regulator on the back of it. The wire was showing 3.7v Constantly with the Iginition off/car locked and 10.8v with the Key On/car started. I spent money on x2 Diagnostics, new ignition, I also removed all fuses, relays, Speedo Cluster, Blubs, ABS unit, PSM/ASR etc (All are linked to this Blue wire), but nothing helped, the fault seems to be in the middle of the Loom somewhere. FIX: I could not trace the fault to this 3.7v and I'm fed up of charging the battery and working on the car--- so I removed the rear passenger door panel, carpet and plastic cill tunnel to gain access to Connector "x2/3 black", the blue wire runs through this on Pin5. I unplugged this connector, I then Cut the blue wire as it went into the x2/3, I lenghtned these wires by 12". I then removed some of the sheathing on Pin 4 which is Black/Brown, I then soldered 12" of thin wire onto this, insulated all of these wires of course as cabled tied then neatly back up. I then installed a relay onto these 3 wires, and added a 4th Earth wire which I secured behind the door panel to bare metal. I also added a 5Amp fuse onto the relays power wire (the wire coming of the Black/Brown) . I then mounted this relay behind the door panel, well below the speaker (so the speakers magnet does not interfere with the relay). I can then remove the speaker and access the relay Easily, should I need to in the future. So Finally after months of research on the net, money spent and loads of evenings in the car, Its now Fixed! I did have 390ma Drain, now its 30ma which is very low and awesome!! I don't think I will need to charge the car again as It should last ages and ages unused in the garage and start easily! I would have loved to have found the actual Real fault but without stripping the dash off and hunting for these wires in this area, then I've done everything possible that I can access. I'm just pleased to not need to charge the car and now I can actually Chill and just enjoy owning, driving and polishing my 996! Hope this info helps.
  25. Hello Porsche experts, I recently purchased a used 911 Carerra, 2003 and had the fuel pump fail. So I looked around in Orange County to find a Porsche mechanic and ended up taking it to Hergesheimer. They replaced the fuel pump but a few days latter I experienced something very troubling. The car would start but idle was somewhat rough. Revving the engine was a challenge in the lower RPM 1000-3000 then it became a bit smoother when driving with load on the engine in the 3000-4000 RPM range. Alarmed by this I called the shop to bring the car in, but this was the day before the Rennsport Reunion in Laguna Seca so I dropped by another mechanic who brought up these error codes on a generic diagnostics tool: P0134 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1) P0101 Mass Airflow Sensor / Circuit range issue Performance problem P0154 O2 Sensor no activity detected (Bank 2 post CAT ) P2098 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2 P2096 O2 Sensor no activity detected Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean (Bank 1) P0156 O2 sensor circuit malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2 post CAT) Initially I thought this was related to the fuel pump replacement. So I called the shop who did the work and they said bring it over. Their analysis identified similar codes and they suggested a few hours to review the harness and sensors in order to asses the problem. A week later i am still trying to resolve this and wondered if I should replace the O2 sensors myself. I have done brakes and other minor maintenance. What is the opinion of the forum here on next steps? I can provide further detail