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Showing results for tags 'ac'.
Found 13 results
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2000 Boxster S Hey Guys, Has anyone ever replaced the AC hard line (Larger Diameter Tube), the metal tubing that runs from the engine (compressor) to the front trunk compartment, and the service access points, via the underside of the car on the passenger side? I recently picked up a very unfortunate fatal dent in the larger diameter tube, Porsche Part No. 996 573 091 01 ??? I ordered the new part and had it shipped to me (NOT cheap) and I pulled off the passenger side front wheel well cover and, man oh man, do they have that thing wiggled in among a bunch of crap. Porsche has used every nook and cranny to shove components, and this little cavity is full of stuff, making R&R much more complex than I was hoping. Its definitely not above my skill level, I'm am hoping for some "wiggle" tips, or movements of the piping that .will facilitate easy replacement. The tubing has more bends in it than a kid with scoliosis has in his backbone. Is there any EASY way to get this thing, not only out, but, back in. I could easily cut the old hard line, but, that still leaves installation. I am hoping that removal of the fuel filler components, and the myriad of vacuum lines is not necessary, but, am not holding my breath. Any tips? tricks? secrets? that I am missing? Thanks in advance for any help!
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OK, I can't be the only DIY guy to make this mistake (fingers crossed)... I had just completed bleeding the brakes and clutch up on jack stands (in last minute prep for my DE the next day) and was jacking up the rear to remove the rear jack stand and the car is so stiff it came off the front and rear jack stands simultaneously (normal). I then removed the rear stand and began to lower it back down and the front passenger side jack slipped off the lift point and crushed the outer AC hard line almost completely. I instantly thought it was the cooling lines and I layed on the ground in defeat for about 10 minutes knowing I had just threw away my weekend. As I lay there staring at the ceiling on the concrete floor, I then realized it was not my cooling line (too small diameter for cooling), it was my AC line and I was back in business! The line was not cracked through, but as you can see in the pics the inner diameter of the line is probably reduce by 80%... so I resolved to just not run the AC until I fixed it later. Of course it was all day rain and the cab was so foggy to see, so I had to run with AC on all day anyway... and it ran fine! My question is this... Option A - if it runs OK and is not cracked, can I just let it go and no further harm will come (besides my pride)? Or Option B - I am compromising the life of more expensive parts of the system ($1300 compressor due to reduced oil flow, etc) if I don't get it fixed asap? If the concensus/ recommendation is to fix it, what parts besides the hard line (and two new seals) do I need replace (e.g. Dryer/Desicant module, etc.)? Thanks for the quick reply... I only have 2 weeks before my next DE and I gotta decide quick! Be gentle... P.S. - the line is cold to the touch when AC is on... is that normal or a symptom of this crimped line?
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Hi guys, i am a proud owner of a 2010 Porsche Cayenne base, and I love this vehicle, but I’m having a issue with the AC blower motor, when I first turn on the AC and put the fan on high it blows but not very hard then all of the sudden it jumps to high and runs perfectly, does anyone know what could be causing this, I’m hoping it’s just the blower motor resistor. Any input would help. thanks in advance sincerely Paul -
In MY04 CS when I turn the heat on, it is throwing cold air on passenger side while the drivers side is working fine. I have tried changing temperature individually for both sides, but no cigar. i read similar post here but it was more about air condutioner than the heater. I had this problem about a year ago, but it started working again after a few hours. Another issue is that there is no air coming out from front center ducts. This center duct problem somehow fixed itself for a short period of time in the summer when I was using A/C, but returned again. Any suggestion what could be causing these? -
This afternoon I was replacing the headlight switch/AC side vent and went to tighten the headlight switch into the housing and somehow struck something on the electrical board with the four wires and has the diodes and shorted something out. It smelled like a resistor went. Now I have no front fog lights and my AC appears to be out. I am not sure if the AC compressor is kicking on, though I have all the controls working. Any ideas what I may have screwed up. -
Today I took the Cayenne 06 TT with 4 zone climate control to a shop to replace the damaged AC service valves and vacuum then regas the system to spec 1050-1100grams with 10g pag oil. See image of new valves for low (right side)and high side (left side), as you can see they are vw parts and they pretty much fit any vw model and Porsche Cayenne and probably a whole load of other brands as the valves are generic for a lot of manufacturers and fit AC equipments which are standardise for obvious reasons. I went to Porsche and they didn't have any stock so went to vw and they had plenty. Move the power steering reservoir out the way for easier access. Second picture. The old low side valve (image 3) with manky looking chewed up Rubber valve which was stopping regassing according to the shop I tried 4 weeks ago after collecting from the garage who did the torque convertor seal job and left me with no AC working but before when I collected it (then had to return it due to massive vibration and a list of other crap), it did work which is strange but undercharged is all; (51oC when I collected it the second time with Jack all AC working thanks a bunch guys)! So getting to the issue. . ...... Vacuum was fine no leaks, re-gassed to 1100 perfect, started car and ran AC, nothing but hot air. Gauge for high side was perfect in the green zone, but low side was much to high above the green zone and in the red. The technician concluded the compressor was good but the low side is blocked. He said the expansion valve is likely blocked and thus the low side is high. Makes sense. So a few questions pls... Q1. Is there any way a fault code or switch device/ sensor or valve located after the compressor could be off or shut and not allowing the refrigerant to not flow around to the condenser then onto the expansion valve and through the evaporator? Q2. How to get the expansion valve out, any diy pls, I searched and found nothing. Q3. Is there any other possibilities to consider? Appreciate responders. Thanks
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has anyone ever recharged their AC? I have a 2005 Cayenne Turbo. I noticed the other day the AC is not as cold as it used to be. Has anyone used AC Pro to recharge their AC? I believe the refrigerant is the same as what Porsche uses. Is this something that a novice can attempt, or will this damage the AC system by using an after market refrigerant that is not from Porsche? -
Dear all: I have water on the passenger (right) side floor board of my 2001 996 base coupe. Here are the signs and symptoms, and hopefully relevant info: the water seems to drip from the AC vent. The car hasn't been out in the rain or through a car wash since I dried it out thoroughly. Drove it for about an hour yesterday with the AC on, and the passenger side is soaked. When parked, a healthy amount of condensate came out by the left rear wheel (that's the driver's side, opposite the side where the floorboard is wet), bit nowhere else. Based on the great info on this site, I checked all four drains under the front cowl. All four were unobstructed and dry as a bone, but there a couple of small leaves in two of them so I cleaned them out. My car has the little clear window over the VIN and the slotted drain grommets, so it looks like the TSB has been applied. I also removed the cover panel on inside of the passenger side rear wheel well. I couldn't positively ID a drain. The area was relatively clean - a little dusty, but no discernible mud, etc. Also very dry. I took out both rear speakers and felt around from the inside of the car all the way down to the bottom of the wheel wells. I suppose that tip only works on the cabriolet...it was clean and dry inside both and there was no drain line . I ran the car with cowl under the hood/bonnet off and the AC on. The AC lines get cold and water condenses on them (both under the bonnet and running along underneath the car on the passenger side), but it doesn't leak or drip excessively. While it was running, I looked underneath, and saw water dripping from the plastic skid panels under the center of the car up forward. It didn't do that yesterday. I can't imagine that pulling out a couple of dry leaves from the drains under the bonnet made a difference...could it have? I'm pretty sure that the issue is condensation from the AC system, since it's getting wet from no other source (and it's clear water, not coolant). It would help me to know: where is AC condensation water SUPPOSED to come out under the car when everything's working properly - front, rear, both? Is there a drain hose from the AC condenser that I can access somewhere up front other than as mentioned? I apologize if this is covered clearly somewhere else. I'm just kinda flummoxed...what am I missing? Thanks very much for any guidance (even a link to some obvious other posting I should have found already)! -
I have a 2004 C2 CAB with 120K miles. I am getting bits of black foam material coming from the air vents and from under the dash. Where is this coming from? and how can I fix it? I was told there is a foam "pad" on the air flow box under located under front hood near battery. -
I'm looking for any suggestions, 1st hand experience or not in trying to figure out what to do re: this issue. Lately it seems that when I hit the auto button on the air conditioning, the fan speed does not seem to increase to where I am accustomed to seeing it go in order to cool the car. In other words, in a hot cabin after hitting the auto button, I used to see the fan increase to maybe 75 or 80% with the temp set to 73. It now goes to maybe 50% or less and then I have to increase the fan speed manually. The system does cool just fine if I do the adjusting(fan) manually. Another thing I've noticed now is when I put the AC in re-circulating mode, the fan speed decreases while all the times before this it use to increase speed after going in re-circulating mode. I'm trying to figure out what the problem may be. Thanks! -
Boxster-mates, I need your insights here. On the drive back this evening - 111F in Phoenix - the AC cooling was low. I also felt a bit of squeal coming from the behind the dashboard when the compressor was running - a mechanical-ish squeal. The engine temperature was near high 190s. After I parked the car, noticed the green coolant spots - not many or large - two or so (I've attached some photos). Some history on the replacements so far, 1) 7/2009 - AC compressor was replaced 2) 7/2011 - Cracked coolant reservoir was replaced. I don't see any coolant under the tank (as in attached photo). Is my compressor again coming in for a replacement? What is the connection with the drops of coolant? Please help :huh: Thank you, Soaking-in-Phoenix
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2002 4s My car blows pretty cold, but i do hear some groan from the compressor - I suspect the refridgerant is a bit low and might not have enough lubrication for the compression. What are the high/low side pressures I should be looking at to make sure it's all topped off? Porsche replaced couple AC lines and refilled it about a year back; not sure if they topped it completely. -
this is regarding the 4 zone ac on my car. here is what i have observed so far: When i start he car and turn on ac, the driver side (front and rear) feel nice and cold, but the passenger side (front and rear) feel much warmer. It appears to me that something is not right and wanted to see if someone can help troubleshoot. the heat is not far away here in TX and i would like it resolved before then. Where do i start, whac can be suspect, etc. looking forward to having this resolved. Greatly aopreciate any help.
