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Showing results for tags 'coils'.
Found 11 results
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SO, I got a beautiful CEL on my 02 C4S coupe 6 speed with 63k miles on it. After diag, the shop found a misfire coming from 3 cylinders (#4,5,6). The initial recommendation was to change the coils and plugs. So I changed all the coils and plugs on both sides. After completion, the misfire was still occurring with a heavy rough idle, this time, specific to cylinder 6 only. Then, i changed the injector for cylinder 6 (shop recommendation). After the injector, the rough idle was still present with the engine light as well. Then, the shop performed a leakdown test and found gas in cylinder 6. They cleaned it up, swapped coils from 5 and 6 to test proper functionality of coils. The leakdown test did not show any leaks however. SO after this was all said and done, the shop put it in additive, filled up the gas tank, and drove it for 50+ miles or so. The car function properly according to them and I drove it as well, and there no idle, no shaking, no engine lights, nothing. A week after I picked up the car from the shop, the rough idle began again after I gave the engine a little rev. The engine light was flashing, and the rough idle began again. The shop said it could be the lifters for cylinder 6. Any thoughts or anyone here experience similar issues with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I would like to gain some knowledge before taking it in back to them and throwing more money at this with no end solution. -
My 2004 Cayenne started missing. This happened pretty much after I put some fuel in it that may have been bad. I tried using fuel treatment, gas dry, etc but it still kept missing. Finally the CEL went on, code reader pulls cylinder misfire on 2,3 and 5 since the car has 107k on it and has never had coils or plugs I figured it was time since I know that is a common cause if misfire. when I did the job I discovered that the coils were covered in a oily slime as well as the spark plugs. Only two cylinders were basically clean. The plug threads were covered in this crap too please pics. I'm assuming this is not normal but is it simply from having bad/cracked coils or is more going on? Spark plug gaskets come to mind. im a decent amateur work on many of my vehicles, so any leads would be appreciated regards roger
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Ignition wire gasket
RevMatcher posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
2002 911 C2 Coupe I'm having the classic misfire on cylinder 1 when the car is wet. I used contact cleaner on the ignition wire plug into the coil and it works fine for now. I/m sure when it gets rained on it will misfire again. Already replaced spark plugs. I discovered there is a tear in the little orange gasket (green arrow in photo) on the ignition wire connector and water is getting in there when it rains. Anybody know where I can find a replacement without buying a new $812 engine wiring harness? Thanks Tom
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2006 CS Ti. Approx 130,000 miles Recently the CEL came on. My OBDII reader showed misfire for all cylinders (this was on a cold start, so not warmed up yet). Previously it had shown misfire in the ready list so I figured this has been intermittent for a while although the car has been driving fine. No issues with power, hesitation, fuel mileage, etc. So, I went ahead and ordered the coils and plugs and changed them today. Every coil looks perfect. No signs of cracking anywhere. The plugs also looked absolutely fine. What I'm figuring (hoping?) at this point is the coils themselves are failing. See the link for pics. The service history I have shows these were changed at 102,000 miles with the 002 part. The coils I installed are 012. Not sure this is going to make any difference but time will tell. See coils and plugs here. -
First time post... hope to start contributing to the forum now! 09 GTS with 93k and excellent maintenance history, recently getting long cranking times and sometimes rough idle at startup. Starter is working properly so we can rule that out - not sure what to tackle first, coils? fuel pumps? HPFP? Durametric codes: 1023 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary circuit - upper limit value exceeded 1026 Fuel high pressure implausible - value below lower limit value The 1023 keeps coming back when cleared but never throws a CEL, the 1026 has been very intermittent but will throw a CEL. I swapped coils 3 and 4 (assuming D is coil 4 and coil 4 is rear-passenger side of engine?) and still get the 1023 code for "D" but no misfire codes. I tried pulling fuses 13 and 14, independently, and truck starts on both fuel pumps (with long crank). Logged with Durametric the fuel setpoint vs. actual pressure and I get 40bar at idle and it seems to keep up OK while driving up to 120bar at WOT. Plugs were changed at 80k but I believe to be on original coils and fuel pumps. So before I start throwing parts at this, any advice on what to troubleshoot next? Still fairly new to the Durametric so anythink I'm missing there with respect to data logging? Cheers, Eric -
I am the original owner of a '99 C2, black on black, approaching 60k miles. My Indy recomended oil change and filter, fuel filter, air filter, belt replacement, and it needed a battery. During plug removal, he discovered four or the six coils were cracked! One was pretty bad.; I'm surprised it ran that well. He could only get four Beru's on such short notice. Total damage with labor was less than $1,100, which I consider quite fair. Glad I brought it in, and I'll replace the other two when I get down to FL ( I hadn't been driving it much while it was stored in VA). A few minor leaks from the RMS and on the right side where some sort of sensor enters the engine, but nothing major. I haven't yet done RMS, AOS or IMS, and while I was there his Mercedes Indy friend called and we're discussing the Carrera. His words - get rid of it! Well, I am aware of these issues, maybe they are less so for the early 996s. But I will replace them along with the water pump and clutch at 75 k miles if I don't decide to upgrade to another 'play' car. My Porsche ownership has been wonderful, and I hope all you owners feel the same. Pure enjoyment, a blast on the twisty roads of the BlueRidge Mtns. If only I could get more than 8 k on a set of rear tires!! -
2006 S Platinum with 110,000 miles. Bought the Duratec software and cable. Had a fault on #5 coil back in April, and replaced it. Ran well again for several months, until #8 and #4 showed intermittent issues. Bought 7 more coils and all new plugs, and replaced them all. Wow!!! I thought the throttle response was good before, now she seems to be pulling extremely hard at the reins. What fun to drive, and no idea new plugs and coils could make such a difference. You always hear that plugs, with unleaded gas, will last forever.....case and point, my 2000 Silverado 5.3 at 266k still getting 17mpg and strong with original plugs and wires. I must also offer a heartfelt thank you to those of you who buy new, and give many of us a chance to enjoy these "broken in" machines within our means. Thought I could catch up some day and order my own, but nay, the new prices continue to run beyond me. It is indeed a privilege to take over their care where you have moved up. And thank you, Loren, for putting up with us. Evan -
Hello, I need to have my rear struts and coils replaced. I am not going to a dealer. There is an exceptional independent mechanic here in the Seattle area (TruLine) where I am going to have the work done. Before I take my Porsche in to have the struts and coils replaced, I would like some advice on name brand struts and coils that I should consider having installed. This car is a production car. It is my driver and I drive it approximately 40 miles/day on arterials and Interstates. What would be the best struts and coils (name brands and types...performance versus high-end, versus average, etc.) Can you help me to understand what I should look for? Thank you, Julie
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Doing the plugs and coils on my 2001. I know this has been asked before, but the info I have found is inconsistent. I've popped just the plugs in so far and put some anti-seize. Should I pull them and take it off. I've read mixed reviews on this. I also ordered new ignition coils. Do the coil tubes come pre-lubed with grease? If not, should I add some? Thanks
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So i was driving home today from work, and all of a sudden it stumbled, then would not maintain speed.....press gas more and it just sputters......so i coast it out as far as i could. Try driving it slightly to get into a parking lot and it sputters and shakes hard.....definitely not driveable. Got towed home and pulled the coilpacks and plugs.....the car idles semi ok, and after it cooled down a bit seemed to be "better" None of the coil packs have cracks.....plugs were all gas soaked. coilpacks are all .04 revisions. Questions: 1. Is this a typical coilpack failure....just all of a sudden multiple misfires and unable to continue to drive? No, not unable to drive 2. will a few failed coils end up soaking all plugs at some point, or did i somehow fail all coilpacks at once? No, only the cylinders that are missing should show signs of running cold 3. Do they always crack when failed, or can they fail without being cracked....None of mine seem cracked. Yes, they don't need to be cracked to have failed, or starting to fail. Thanks. I have almost 100k on those coils, so i felt like i was running on borrowed time, so it seems logical. SOLVED: It was the driver side fuel pump. Looks for the DIY -
My 2000 Boxster S w/105k (body) 40k (engine) is acting up. Last fall, I got caught in downpour and inches of standing water, getting splashed hard by other cars. The CEL started flashing and the car was nearly impossible to drive past 3rd gear (no power and bucking) until I could get off freeway to let it dry out. It had several misfire codes set. Ever since then, it's been a little less smooth than I had been accustomed to, and now it is misfiring and bucking below about 2600 RPM all gears, all temps, but ONLY with high throttle opening (e-gas). Tipping the throttle in seems to be fine. High RPM seems ok, if maybe a little weak. If you keep the throttle open under the misifiring conditions, it will cause a flashing CEL, although it will not stay on. Stored codes are P0300, P0301. Previously, the secondary air injector and catalyst codes have set the CEL, but it went away on their own (this was after driving on a very dusty road last fall). Car is stock, except desnorkel. Half of exhaust was disconnected recently for wheel bearing replacement, but this problem predates that job. Have changed plugs, cleaned MAF, cleaned throttle body. Most of the coils are cracked, but not bad enough to see inside -- I epoxied them. Problem seemed to clear up after changing plugs, but then came back on next drive. I suspect bad coil(s), also MAF or vacuum leaks. My understanding is that the coils should have about 40k miles on them (same as engine), but they do look pretty rough. I am ordering coils, but want to make this problem go away permanently without playing the blind remove and replace game -- what else should I look at? I will disconnect the MAF and drive around to see if that helps and do a propane vacuum leak check as well when the engine lid is off. Thanks so much guys, Cary (photo is from Utah, 3k into my 10k mile summer roadtrip last year, car was awesome!)
