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Showing results for tags 'convertible dash light on'.
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I was reading a previous post in 2011 made by a member named Fermin who had the same problem with his '99 convertible top dash light staying on all the time even though his top was really working near perfectly, except for that darn red dash light staring at him all the time and the fact that he couldn't drive it in the top open position without having the windows all the way up. I recently replaced my frame and rebuilt my top too because the previous owner had broken the pot metal where the steel ball connects to the front push rod, rendering the frame useless. Fermin's problem was that his light stayed on all the time. He had properly synched his transmissions, adjusted his pushrods correctly, replaced his top latch microswitch, checked and adjusted his b-pillar switch and rear motor spring to lid gap and cleaned and adjusted his brake switch. Apparently the solution was to hold the button down longer at the end of the cycle to get the light to turn off. Like Fermin, I am totally paranoid about the transmissions overrotating and shearing that pin off and breaking the pot-metal and starting all over on a very expensive project. My question is: What determines the motor to stop before it might over-rotate? Is it the electrical load on the motor determined by the spring tension?, Or is it an after- run time on the rear microswitch that turns off the convertible dash light? I replaced my top latch microswitch and looked and cleaned my brake switch, Still, my dash light stays on and when my top is in the open position (clamshell is completely down and level) the windows stay dropped about 2.5 inches. In the top-closed position the windows close completely, so I think the new top latch microswitch must be working, (again the clamshell is tight and level) but the light still stays on. If I pull the double relay off and put it back on, the light goes off until I open the top, which of course is normal. But when I proceed to completely open the top and the clamshell closes tightly the light continues to stay on. If I continue to push the control button for a brief (1 second) in the down (top down) direction it often reverses the direction of the clamshell and starts to open. Is my problem a bad rear microswitch or am I just being a wussy and should keep pushing the down button on my dash risking catastrophic destruction of my top that works pretty darn well right now? You can see in the photos the destruction of the ball joint on the frame. My pinky shows the normal right side with intact ball and pot-metal, my index finger shows a broken frame and no place to put that ball joint. Close up shows why I am paranoid.
