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Found 26 results

  1. Hello All, The car has been awesome 2006 987.1 30k miles. The other day i took it for a drive and stopped after about 150 miles for about 30miins when I came out, all my coolant was on the floor. I refilled the coolant and constantly checked the temperature, initially it edged up to 180F but then settled back down to 175F and stayed that way all the way home. I was driving gently and kept cheeking the coolant level. Since then I found that I needed to open the coolant needle valve and drive around for 3 or 4 days to bleed the cooling system. I'm on day 2 and the coolant level has gone down slightly. Whenever I stop I check the floor and there has been no coolant leak. I am baffled, anyone seen this before? Thanks.
  2. The common coolant pipe issue seems to only affect the V8 Cayenne's. I'm wondering if my coolant leak is a common problem too. I've been losing coolant on my 3.6 V6 Cayenne at a fairly slow rate compared to the other more common issue. I'm having to top it off about once every month or two. Last weekend I was changing the oil and started investigating the leak. It looks to be coming from a black plastic coolant hose fitting on the back of the engine, passenger side. Has anyone seen this problem before? I'm wondering if there is just a bad o-ring behind that fitting or if the whole part needs to be replaced. And if anyone knows the part number for this I would greatly appreciate that too! Thanks
  3. Well I was driving yesterday when the coolant light began to flash, temp hit 200, so I went home and filled the coolant, which was really low. When looking through the fill, there wasn't any coolant all the way down. I put in about 3 quarts [ capacity 2.5 gal.] which was a lot of loss. But There wasn't any leaking. [?] The level stayed steady at the 1/2 min-max mark. Driving today, about 10 miles back and forth, not only did the light come on but the temperature shot up. I pulled into the driveway just as it hit 250. No check engine light, no other diagnostic light, just the flashing coolant light. [meter/check codes?] When I got out of the car, I could hear a loud whine from the trunk. Opened it to find that the coolant cap was venting hot coolant steam, and of course the loud and unnerving hissing-whine, from the cap. After a few moments it stopped. Waited till it all cooled down and slowly and carefully removed the cap. Same issue as above. No visible coolant in fill. I again put about 2 quarts, level hit between min-max. No leaks under car, coolant level hold steady. The mix is 1 gal. Porsche coolant [bought though Pelican], and 1 gal. distilled water. Shaken, not stirred to mix. Let sit. Yes, nice and pink when poured. The coolant tank is brand new, perhaps has a thousand miles on it. Cap came with the tank. Porsche, not OEM. Put on by a reputable shop which specializes in German cars. I screwed that cap down properly, real tight. No overflow. No leaks. I'm loosing coolant when driving, only. Any ideas? Obviously I can't drive it. Next steps is to load it on a flatbed, and drop it off at the shop. {Poor Boxie} 😰 Thanks, as always!
  4. Late 2004 Boxster Base Tiptronic with 45,000 miles I have racked up 15,000 miles over the last 3 years of ownership. The coolant was flushed about a year prior to purchase. I think it's time to flush the coolant. I plan to buy the Airlift tool - it's a time vs cost issue, time wins. I know from searching that JFP has recommended to others to replace the water pump as preventative maintenance on a car this age. Fair enough. Porsche pump, clean the mating surfaces carefully and: 1. Use gasket sealant or no sealant? 2. Should I replace the coolant reservoir even though I cannot find anything wrong with it? I'll replace the thermostat at the same time. 3. Should it be the 160 degree thermostat? 3a. I notice that the car runs between 190 - 210 degrees (using Scangauge) most of the time in warm weather, so will the 160 stat be a benefit? 4. Which hoses should be replaced? 5. Anything else? Since the start of ownership I've done mostly preventative and general maintenance with very few actual failures of any kind. With that being said, I think mileage is beginning to expose some common failures cropping up like what happened yesterday - the turn signal stalk won't hold in-place, so now I need to replace it but at least getting the 4-stalk version will give me the OBC functions.
  5. I have a 2002 Boxster that enjoys dumping the entire contents of the engine coolant on a regular basis. The entire coolant tank seems to be dumped from the emergency overflow whenever this happens. No warning lights appear on the dash either before or after this occurs. The dump happens only when I turn the engine off after driving. After turning the engine off I hear rapid running liquid coming out of the back of the car, and can see the coolant fluid flooding over the pavement. It completely empties the tank and takes about 30 seconds. There does not appear to be a leak in the system. The first time it happened I called roadside assistance they pressure tested the tank without issue. I subsequently took it to a garage which also pressure tested the tank and did not find an issue. The level does not gradually decline: it is either fine or it dumps the whole thing on power-down. A few months ago the car started dumping the coolant very frequently (almost every time I drove). I took it back to the garage which decided to replace the coolant overflow reservoir which apparently had a crack. This seemed to improve the situation, but in the last few weeks the problem has returned and the coolant is dumped after most trips when I turn-off the engine. The engine temperature shown on the dash is normal, no warning-lights come on, and the fans work normally. At least one of the times this has happened in the past I did not notice it immediately and ended up driving around for some time before realising there was no coolant. I have owned the car for about 2 years, and the issue first occurred about a year ago. Has anyone come across this before? I don't really want to take the car back to the garage for them to do yet another random "fix", charge me a fortune and not actually address the problem.
  6. Turbo/Turbo S (maybe even GTS) thermostats are not the typical looking reverse poppet design I've come to know an love (hate?) over the years. The "standard" design is pretty obvious - a hole opens up in the middle against the flow of water. On the Turbo/Turbo S it seems to be a balanced sleeve (am I correct?), which allows pressurized coolant to circulate around all of its moving parts. Sounds great, but I don't understand how it restricts the flow. Upon 1st impression it would seem to me coolant can pass right through it unrestricted, regardless of the position of the internals. I do realize the water pump sits in front of the thermostat and that the inlet(s) coming from the engine and the outlet tubes exit out just over the water pump both are both behind the thermostat. This must have something to do with it but in my mind, having both inlet and the outlet on the other side of the thermostat means the water pump isn't doing anything but churning coolant. See diagram on page 89 of this parts diagram: https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/en/E_9PA1_KATALOG.pdf Does somebody know how this all works? Your knowledge is appreciated!
  7. I recently had to replace the water pump on my 2001 Boxster. This all went fine, however, the red light to the right of the temperature gauge is blinking at 1 Hz. I've read this indicates low coolant level. I followed the factory procedure to bleed the system and it is filled to the max, but the light still blinks. Also, the gauge is flatlined to the left. I replaced the temperature sensor near the #4 cylinder head without improvement, and the wires "look" ok. All the fuses are good. Does anyone know the procedure to troubleshoot this wiring? Or the pin and socket numbers for the wiring diagram? The temperature gauge worked fine before the water pump blew up. I did recover most of the impeller, but a few small pieces are in there.
  8. Had a puddle when warm, from the drivers side front (coolant leak as discoloured the drive). Common problem so took the wheel off with it facing as far right as possible, then, If I recall, 7 screws to remove the plastic cover of the inner wheel arch (torxs) Bottom of the 2 pipes were the problem on mine The 2 ends of the pipe means you will need a big bucket to catch all the fluid, There will be a something like a 3mm wire cir-clip that retains the hose, one at each end, make sure it is well clear or take it off all together, its easy to get back on. then just pull the hose off and get wet.(image) The leaking end had been bodged before so was I had to wiggle for a while, don't forget the car is on jacks so don't pull too hard. then release the other end, I must have releases a good 3 litres of coolant out of the car. The new hose (image) is apparently silicone based, and I read that you are not to use silicone lubricant on silicon hoses? So you will have to decide on what to put on the hose to aid insertion. Clean everything as much as you can, then push the new hose and put back the clips on both ends (test pull to see if well located). With the Gen2 (might be cayman and boxster the coolant refill should be done with a full drain as per other tutorials, but to refill and bleed you have to remove the engine cover and find the bleed valve as per image. not in the boot as gen1( as I understand) Check for leaks
  9. Hi Guys, I finally narrowed my vacuum leak on my coolant system to heater core pipes. When I isolated heater core pipes near the split hose under rear passenger side, I could see vacuum holds at 25psi. So I am suspecting a hole or a hose leak at the heater core. I know heater core is under the battery, but wondering how to get to the heater core. Bentley manual does not cover this topic. Any help with instructions are appreciated. Enclosing a picture from my car.
  10. Hi there folks, I’m having some random misfires in my ’03 Boxster. I’ve disassembled the intake manifold to get a better understanding of the problem, and as per the picture below, there is clearly something going on with cylinder-1. a week ago, CEL came on for random misfires in cylinder-1 (P0301) Engine runs well, has high millage (320km) and no noticeable degradation in performance Checked the coolant, and was below the minimum mark (which was flushed a couple of months ago) On the exhaust side, there are dripping marks, probably coolant leaking through the exhaust manifold gasket (!) All this makes me think that it’s leaking coolant through the head gasket into cylinder-1. I already know this is not a four-hour repair to be completed during a weekend, and that one way or another, the engine will have to come down for surgery. . so I'll definitively appreciate any inputs! Thanks, Jones.
  11. Hi all, First of all I apologize if I do anything wrong since I only just created this account in order to ask this community a question. We own a Porsche 996 Targa 2002 and as we all know the 996 is prone to engine problems such as IMS and oil and coolant mixture. Today when I was checking if the engine still had enough oil and coolant and decided they needed a fillup I saw something that I did not really like. I've uploaded two pictures one of how the coolant looks and another picture of where you add the oil. Is the yellowish stuff you see ok or is this the first sign of the oil and coolant mixture? The car seems to run fine and never had any problems with engine temperature, hope you guys can help me out on this one! With kind regards, A somewhat nervous 996 owner.
  12. 2001 996 47K miles. The engine temperature or coolant temperature needle has always sat on the 8 (180), once when i did a long 3 hr drive it drifted to then end of the zero, but it was a 3 hr drive on a 90degree day, but no big deal, that was 3 yrs ago. It has always sat on the 8. I noticed recently during city driving in about 15 mins, the needle starts to drift to the end of the the zero, and when its on the highway for a few minutes it would lower back into the beginning of the zero, but never back onto the 8. No leaks under the car, i see no signs of coolant in the engine, nor do i smell coolant dripping onto hot parts. My question is is this a precursor for something failing? Anything i can check? Any advice appreciated.
  13. Yesterday I had my coolant expansion tank replace, after driving it away from the shop the temp light began blinking slowly (which usually indicates low coolant or engine compartment fan faulty) I checked the coolant level and it was fine, today I ran the car and let it sit running for a while and never heard the familiar noise of the engine fan coming on, what could have happend to the car during the installation to have this problem? I would like to have something to say to the mechanic when I bring the car back. Thank you for any insight on this problem. 2002 Boxster S Manual Tranny
  14. My 955 turbo has consumed nearly 10L of coolant in the past 40 days. No apparent exterior leak (haven't opened up engine covers yet). White smoke exhaust upon cool-cold start up, tubes are done. Cooling system seems pressurized when I open reservoir cap. Apart from head gasket potential are there any other possibilities? Through intake somehow? Through turbos? Doesn't overheat. Help please
  15. Hi, I'm new to this website and new to Porsche ownership and was hoping that I could get some help with an issue that's just occurred with the coolant expansion tank of my 04 Cayenne Turbo. I recently purchased this vehicle back in June after selling my range rover. At the time I did quite a bit of research and discovered the issues with the coolant pipes, carden shaft bush, ignition coils etc that were prevalent with the early Cayenne models. After viewing a few vehicles that were less than desirable I eventually found a Cayenne in pristine condition, and more importantly with all the aforementioned work carried out by the dealer. I've been using the Cayenne everyday since and can not fault it. Yesterday as I arrived home I heard a loud popping type noise when I was parking the vehicle. After stepping out I noticed a pool of fluid on the floor, located at the right hand side of the vehicle. On inspection I realised that it was coolant fluid and refiled the expansion tank to try and locate the leak. At first I thought it might have been one of the rubber hoses in and around that area. After removing the airbox to gain access to the area I found that it was the expansion tank that had split (see pics below). Is this a common problem with the cayennes and has anyone else had this issue? I've got to say that I expected a lot more from prestige manufacturer such as Porsche. The expansion tank was only manufactured in Sept 2003 and it should really last the lifetime of the vehicle!! Now, this is were I need your help; I've ordered the part and should get round to fitting it this weekend. Can anyone tell me if the cayenne has a bleed screw of some description and if so where is it located? What is the process for refilling the coolant?
  16. Hey all, Looking for some help here. I developed a pretty bad coolant leak about a month ago, i was losing about 1 liter per week. When I got under the car i saw the dripping coming from the tip of the waterpump, and surrounding areas. Since the car had gone about 60k since it was last replaced I bought that and replaced it thinking that would be it. However, after assembling everything back together.... The leak seems to be coming out of whatever is next to it. Attached are a few pictures, any help as to what this is; or how to troubleshoot would be great!
  17. Here is a tip on how to completely flush / refill your cooling system using a simple shop vacuum. To drain your system, first open both large and small tubes underneath the car, next to transmission and then connect a shop vacuum to the tubes to completely empty the system. To flush your system, should you want to do it, connect your shop vacuum to each tube and use your hand to inspect where the suction is. Then pour 1 liter of clean battery water or such from a bottle into a tube where suction exists. Just make sure you do not suck any dirt or your gloves in the system. To refill a completely drained system, first top off your coolant tank. You'll notice that you only get around half of the fluids in. Then connect shop vacuum to the larger tube underneath the car, next to transmission. Please watch your coolant level on the tank at the same time when you first activate your shop vacuum. You will see that the vacuum will suck level down pretty quick, only let the shop vacuum run for a second or so depending on how powerful vacuum you have. The point is to refill your coolant tank before the level drops too low and you get air in your system. Repeat this process of activating shop vacuum for a second and topping off your coolant tank as many times as you can. After around ten vacuum runs, you'll notice that you have filled over 20 liters to the system, still missing a few liters. Then open the clip on the coolant cap to relieve pressure, start the car, let the pump run and refill rest of the couple liters slowly, no CEL light or low coolant warnings should occur. At least for me this trick worked fine and the whole process was easy.
  18. Sending a feeler on the auxiliary water pump. This is the pump that is located behind the left (driver's) side inner fender cover. It pumps water for the heater, basically. I've noticed it getting louder and louder so I'm guessing it is going out. I haven't heard or come up with much on a search. There is a TSB to add foam tape to quiet it down and I did a home-grown version to see if that would help but it didn't. But it really didn't make this much noise before. I was curious if anyone had replaced one before so I can guess how much coolant will need to be removed. Once you get to the pump it's pretty straight forward. Part number appears to be 95557215002.
  19. I know this is a topic often reviewed here on the forum but I was looking for a little more help prior to just letting my local mechanic ream me for a few thousand dollars. Use the forum often, rarely (if ever) post, but have been far more active on equivalent sites for cars I've owned in past (Audi/BMW/etc)... Have an 04 Cay S, 87k miles, owner for past 16 months, probably drive 1200-1500mi/month. About 2 months ago, in traffic temp gauge went above 220 - i know it is very common for it to fluctuate in that 180-220 range but this was first ever time it went beyond. Was home about 1 mile later with no real issue. The next morning I got the "check coolant level" message, figured I could get to my mechanic 20 miles away and about 17 miles of the way there, got stuck in a little morning traffic and it quickly overheated, I sort of saw it coming so immediately pulled over and turned it off and waited for AAA. Shop replaced the water pump, coolant pipes (from the old plastic ones), flushed the coolant, etc. and for about 6 weeks all ran smooth, and even with being in some traffic never got past 180-190 temp wise. Over past 7 days its quickly become worse and is willing to fluctuate above 180 pretty quickly and certainly smells like coolant once parked. I have added to prior threads - 1) http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42289-coolant-smell-always-evrything-replaced/ - in posting #7, does anyone know what the part is in the bottom right of the diagram? almost looks like a filter? that is leaking - what part is that and is it a major reason for conern? 2) http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42643-ac-dryer-2004-cs/ - does this user's issue correlate to me at all? Thanks for your help!
  20. Uh oh. '99 Boxster with 160K was leaking a bit of coolant for a bit, then after a trip to the grocery store, steam started shooting out from coolant reservoir in trunk, and coolant starting pouring out of underside, by passenger side R wheel. It was like a teapot. . . . . .but that's not tea. I'm going to guess this is not a fix I can do myself. Anybody want to guess what it is, so I can tell the guys at the shop? What should I expect to pay? Shop is 20 mins from here, with significant highway driving. Can I dump distilled H2O to limp my car down there, or do I need a tow? Thanks as always, friends. B
  21. I have a MY 1999 996 C4 that I had to have towed because of a coolant leak. I saw smoke coming form the engine area so I pulled over, saw the leak and thought it best to get a tow. I initially thought it may be a hose leaking, but found that when I squeezed a hose, it looked like coolant was leaking from the lowermost flywheel (where the serpentine belt goes). Is this possible or could it be leaking from somewhere that I cannot see? About 1000 miles ago I had a new clutch, IMS and RMS bearings installed. Could any of these repairs be related to the coolant leak? I want to try to fix this myself before having the car towed for repairs if possible. Thanks in advance for your help!
  22. The lowest point on my '99 996 Tip is the radiator hose to the hose. I found this out the hard way. If you bottom out your Porsche, the hose gets scuffed and can cause a leak. After a good person warned me I was spewing something bad, I pulled over and saw the problem. Here's is what to do: If there is an auto parts store really nearby, race to it. Otherwise shut it down. Hopefully, your are in the city and can get the the auto parts store. If not, tow it. Buy a section of 1 inch radiator hose, straight, and two 1 1/2 inch hose clamps. Cut the hose about an inch longer than the tear. Slit open the hose. Wrap the new hose around the tear and secure using the two clamps. My tear was next to the engine inlet, so I had to remove the old clamp. If so, make sure you place the new clamp around the inlet. Note: if the leak stops spewing before you can fix it, you lost about three gallons of coolant. Allow the engine to cool. Then fill with coolant, 50/50 pre-mix. There will be trapped air. Note: even though the temp gage says its cool, the coolant may still boil over. If so, wait more. Check for leaks in the patch. Now drive the car a short way, keep an eye on the temp gage, aim towards a car wash. If the temperature climbs towards overheating, stop and allow to cool. Check for leaks. At the car wash, was car of all coolant and cool down the engine. The fill with coolant. There may still be air trapped, but you shouldn't have to wait for the engine to cool before filling the coolant tank. Now drive car cautiously. Look for the coolant level warning light. It is next to the over heat light on the temp gage. If it goes off, stop and fill with coolant. The patch should hold until you get a new hose. I am going to leave the patch on the new hose in order to protect it.
  23. New to this Board and looking for some immediate guidance on a specific problem with my coolant reservoir (leak). If anyone can answer this, it would be greatly appreciated. I have an 2001 S with 65,000 miles. I noticed the aforementioned coolant leak. I've ordered the #01 new style cap (wish Porsche had bothered to tell me about that one!) and am waiting for it. in the meantime I am either trying to seal the leak with some plastic weld that another user had success with - OR - I will try and replace the tank itself if need be. HERE'S THE QUESTION THOUGH: In every posting I see it refers to just how difficult this DIY job is because "you have to remove the hoses from inside the engine compartment on the other side of the firewall", and "almost need drop the tranny to get to the c-clips". BUT MINE SURE DOESN'T LOOK LIKE THAT! (See attached photo) All I'm seeing are three rubber coolant hoses with c-clamps on both ends, and the oil fill tube, and the oil dipstick line. That's it! So I am left wondering if my build got a newer style coolant reservoir that is easier to remove - OR am I just that stupid and asking for big-trouble in trying to do this? Anyone know if I remove those three hoses can I A) either move the tank around enough to get to the underside and REALLY seal the leak? OR 2) remove the tank entirely and replace it myself? Oh, man thank you if you know the answer!
  24. Anyone know if the Prestone bulb & arrow type coolant tester works accurately with our pink Porsche coolant? Thanks
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