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Showing results for tags 'lock'.
Found 13 results
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What lubricant should be used for the door lock and the ignition lock cylinder? Thanks -
Hello Guys, I got my 2014 Cayenne Platinum edition and it seems that the remote unlock and locking mechanism using my key fob does not work unless i am close to the vehicle, range is i would say 5 feet. I tried to change the batteries on the key fob but issue still there, is there anything else i am missing or is it a design issue by Porsche that they corrected on a later versions ? Thank you,
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I was checking / fixing fuses, pulling them and putting new that kind of stuff and now my windows do not open and the front light are always on! The fuses are ok but I am wondering if by playing around maybe i messed up a relay or something! I tried to fix the fuses to what they should be, in the past the car ( used ) had fuses too big for what the chart called for, so for example i replaced a 30 for a 10 if a 10 was the one needed etc. -
having some issues with locking my cs using the key fob , i can unlock the car fine with the fob but i have to be next to drivers glass to lock the car . i have changed the battery in the fob no luck the led on the fob goes off when i press the lock button , i have also tried resync the key . has anybody had this similar fault -
Troubleshooting a no crank issue; this code came up on the durametric alarm module section. My alldata documentation goes on to state; What does this even mean ? An entirely defective door lock module ? Did a previous owner install one from another car ? I don't really understand because the troubleshooting step is just one possible simple solution. I will carefully test all operation of the door lock and update with another post. -
I have a problem on the passenger side of my Boxster S 2000 that makes the car unable to lock and passenger window to not drop when grabbing the handles (either outside or inside). Sometimes the window drops from both the outside and inside door handle and then it also works to lock the car, but must often it doesn't work. When you try to lock with the remote it locks and then unlocks immediately and double honks. The door button light on the panel is also lit red (even while driving). If you lock with the key on the drivers door it locks but not the passenger door. After a couple of hours the alarm goes off. After this happens the passenger door and windows works and I can lock the car with the remote. I suppose the car get a contact with the passenger door again and realizeses that it's unlocked? I had the exact same problem last year after taking the door panel off and forgetting to reconnect the inside microswitch. When connecting it again the lock and window worked the rest of the year and so it did for a short while after taking it out again after the winter. I have checked that the microswitch is connected now. So far I have checked that both outside and inside switch are connected. I have also removed the door lock mechanism. The microswitch on the outside, that as far as I understand check if the door is open or not, seem fine to me. I have opened the alarm module under the driver seat (LHD car) and it's like new on the inside so it shouldn't be water damage or something like that. When doing this I also replaced the fuse on the alarm module. I have also cleaned all the connections I have disconnected with electronic cleaner. Now I'm completely out of ideas. What should I try next? Is there any point to buy a new door lock mechanism even though the switch look fine to my eye? Or could it even be just the window micro switches i should replace? Any help is really appreciated.
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A friend with a '99 C2 cannot get his driver's side door to unlatch using either the external or internal release handles. This isn't a question of a battery discharge. He gets no resistance from the exterior release, some resistance from the interior release but neither of those result in the door unlatching. My thinking is that the lock motor has jammed in the locked position and isn't releasing the cam that holds the latch in the locked position. He has the interior door panel most of the way off - is there something he can trip on the latch mechanism to release the latch so that he can remove the thing??? -
I've done some searches but can't seem to find anything similar. One of my rear doors will not lock all of the time with the key fob. It will always activate the alarm with the usual flashing lights to show it is armed, but you can walk right up and tug on the handle and it opens right up. Other times it actually locks. There are times when I am driving, I pull away from a stop, and I can hear the door lock at about 8 mph or so (same door with issue). So I'm not sure if the actuator is going out, or if there is something screwy with a control module. I can plug in the Durametric but get no faults. Anyone experience something similar? -
Picked up a 2004 CTT last week. Of course it has a slew of problems, some can wait, but this problem is high priority. I have spent about 8 hours (of company time) reading through similar problem posts, but havent found a post with the same symptoms and a confirmed solution at the end. Im not sure if this problem just started, or if I didnt notice it over the first week of ownership. The driver door will not lock. Symptoms: Key FOB button, two horn pumps, two light flashes, alarm is armed, all doors lock but drivers door, I can hear the actuator on that door. Central locking on armrest, hear all actuators, including driver door, all doors lock but drivers door Key in door, two horn pumps, two light flashes, alarm is armed, all doors lock but drivers door After playing with the key in the door, my key fob then stopped working all together, until I used the central locking (VERY weird), now it works as fine as it did this morning. I have tried all of the COMFORT setting (all, single door, etc.) same results I removed the grommet on the door and moved the red plastic doohickey to the left, no actuator noise or anything, moved it to the right, still nothing. I did notice that there was no spring action, I read in another post that there was an issue with a broken spring, is the doohickey supposed to spring back to the central location? Can anyone confirm this? I also have an air suspension faulty, and then a low beam actuator?? error come up recently. Ive read that a low battery can cause all sorts of randomly odd havoc. So I checked the battery voltage with a multimeter under the hood and it read 12.4v, Im assuming this is normal for a non running car with the door open. I appreciate any help you guys can offer!!! Im sure I will have lots of posts over the first few months. -
Hi All, Strange one here that been happening on my 01 Boxster with 140k for about 6 months now. Here are the symptoms. If anyone has a clue to what's going on, I'm desperate! All started happening at the same time. 1) Keys will not lock door or open trunks. Battery on both fobs are good. When depressed the red indicator light on the top of the dash blinks leading me to believe that the signal between key and car is good, but ignored. 2)When key is removed from ignition, the car 'goes dead'...meaning no interior lights, none of the switches on the console (except headlights) work...including the door lock switch and trunk releases. 3)The front trunk release (electric type, not mechanical) does not work at all. To test the servo to the front trunk, I connected leads from the battery to the unconnected servo and it worked. I would think that this rules out a bar servo. So, I haven't been able to lock my car or use the front trunk switch since this started. Before I started buying parts (front servos, switches, ignition systems, Main computer, etc) I wanted to see if anybody could help me out. Of course I'll be happy to go into detail about other aspects if necessary to diagnose! Thanks for your help!!
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Hello Forums, I have 2 issues. 1. One of my doors stopped locking. You can open the door from the outside anytime, but you can't open it from the inside. Does anyone know what I might need to fix here without having to take it into a dealer? Before it completely died, locking causes the door lock to 'Whir". 2. My "beep on lock" stopped working. When I lock the car, the horns don't beep any more. The settings are set to on. Blown fuse? Dead horns? Regular horns work fine when pushed on the wheel. Thanks for your help! .C -
When I turn the key, you can hear the doors lock and then about 1 second later you hear them unlock. However, the arlarm is indeed engaged and any attempt to open the door will set it off. How do you fix it? [TIP] If anyone else has this problem, I discovered a temporary "hack" to lock the doors, though it does requires 2 people: Have someone on the passenger side ready with their hand on the handle. Turn the key and when it clicks, you both immediately press and hold down the handles. For whatever reason, this stops it from unlocking itself. -
My door locks only work part of the time. At other times, they will click on and off randomly, like when I'm driving, going over bumpy sections of road, or sitting at a red light. I bought the car about a month ago and the guy said the passenger door lock mechanism was faulty, but they both have the same problem. I had to disconnect my alarm horn because it would go off at the same random times the locks acted up. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot and/or repair this?
