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Showing results for tags 'maf'.
Found 16 results
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I have 2000 Porsche Boxster S that is misfiring on nearly every cylinder. It started with symptoms of a bad MAF; typical sluggish on take off, CEL light with the corresponding code. I would disconnect the wiring from the MAF and it would clear up. I cleaned the MAF and plenum and it ran perfectly for about a day. Ordered a new MAF. By before I had a chance to put the new one in I got a flashing CEL and a massive loss of power. Put in the new MAF. It cleared up some idle issues but the loss of power and flashing CEL is still there. The codes show random misfire and misfire on 2,3,4,5, and 6. I've also changed the spark plugs but it has had no effect.
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I need some advice. I have a 1999 996 with a 2001 engine. I need to replace my MAF, but not sure how to tell if I have and e-gas or not. Does anyone know how to make the distinction? Thanks in advance!!
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Hello there, this is my first post here and I’m writing because of problem with my boxster. Today in the morning I’ve started my 2002 boxster and noticed strange sounds from the engine/ rear side of the car It’s a metallic, grinding sound like a loose piece of metal or something like that Sound disappears when you press gas and comes back once you loose the pedal, I don’t know if it changes while engine is warm Also, check engine light shown up yesterday, when I connected my BT OBD2 there was no error code. I came with that to workshop also, and they said it’s a catalyst efficiency error. I’ve had that error code a while ago, I’ve replaced mass air flow meter and check engine light disappeared. I think it might be a problem with maf again because I bought not the cheaper, not the original one, but why are there these strange sounds? I’m worried about this. Could it be catalyst this time? Or again should I replace maf? This time I’ll buy original one. here are two Videos I made Also I’m sorry if you can’t understand something, my english is not perfect. Thank you for all replies, I hope we will solve that problem together -
I'm new to Renntech and hopefully I follow the decorum correctly. If not I apologize. Anyway, I have a 2000 Boxster S. It has been sputtering on take off and gave codes that suggested the MAF was out. I disconnected the MAF wiring and it greatly improved the performance. I ordered a MAF and by the time it came in I believe my car went into Limp Mode. I installed the new MAF and cleaned the throttle body but it still acts like it is in limp mode. I also changed the spark plugs hoping this would help. The only code I'm getting off it now is P1118 and also the codes for missing on cylinders 2 and 3. Is it possible that is simply still in limp mode? If so is there a way for me to reset it?
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Hi All My first post here so please bear with me but pretty desperate for help. Have 2004 Boxster S and its, in general, running a bit rough (feels fuel rich). It also will also, on occasion, not go. Pulling up at a busy intersection and car reduces to Idle. Then put the foot down and the car stays at idle. Normally an engine restart gets things going again (although not always and sometimes requires a few goes). Bought a computer reader and found error codes P0102: Factory Fault code 115 - Mass air flow sensor - below limit P2135: Accelerator Pedal - Signal Implausible P0121: Factor Fault code 117 - Throttle value or accelerator pedal potentiometer - signal implausible P1266: Factory Fault Code 409 - Fuel shutoff function monitor - signal implausible Took the car to Porsche. They suggest a MAF sensor was the root cause and replaced it. It felt better for a few days then problem returned. They replaced another MAF sensor.. Same problem. They then said the MAF reads 0 and have checked the cables so its me DME and it needs replacing (not cheap) Have taken the car back home and looked at the likely affecting values myself from the computer. 1. MAF. The computer shows to different values for MAF Mass air flow (HFM) is always 0 regardless of if the car is working correctly or not and at any accelerator level Mass air flow seems to move within a range of 18 (idle) to 100 (full throttle) 2. Throttle (since it had error codes on this) Pedal encoder potentiometer 1 and 2 always move and the pedal value goes from 0-100% when its working but stays at 0 when its not. Since the potentiometers always move I am assuming the DME simply can't add things up so sticks the pedal value at 0. ie. The MAF sensor reading above confuses the DME and it reduces the throttle to 0. That feel consistent with the behaviour of the car (its just sticks at idle) Any one with any clues? Certainly don't want to replace the DME unless absolutely necessary.... HELP?
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1999, 996, 117k miles Due to leaking I recently changed my coolant reservoir tank, which involved disconnecting and re connecting 2 fuel lines.. Upon restarting the car I had a rough idle and CEL. I purchased a $100b code reader, read a bunch of stuff online and decided to clean the MAF sensor, change the air filter, spark plugs, plug tubes and coils. upon today's startup I get an erratic/rough/low rpm idle, flashing CEL and the following codes: P0102 mass air flow circuit low P1319 misfire emission related P1318 misfire cylinder 6 emission related P1315 misfire cylinder 3 emission related P1313 misfire cylinder 1 emission related Somehow I went from a leaky tank to some bad stuff based on a do-it-myself moment. I wonder if the coil packs might not be perfectly seated? I'm thinking a new mass air flow sensor and all four O2 sensors need replacing?? Please advise. Hugo Kohl -
1999 Porsche Boxster 986 shows check engine light (CEL). Code read at autozone as P0112 Error Code (Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input). According to <http://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-p0112>, the error code causes could be Defective Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IAT) Dirty air filter Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) Faulty or corroded Intake Air Temperature wiring or connection MAF: Bosch 996 606 123 00 (serial number?:0 260 217 007) DME: Bosch 996.618.601.04 (serial number?:0 261 204 605). Lots of other numbers on DME. Can post image if required. After doing some research, I did some basic digital multi-meter tests between the MAF, IAT, and DME (MAF/IAT are combined into one unit in the '99 Boxster). NOTE: Engine Control Unit (ECU) seems synonymous or very related to DME or Digital Motor Electronics in the Porsche Boxster, Boxster S Service Manual: 1997-2004 by Bently Publishers {ISBN-10: 083761645X -- ISBN-13: 978-0837616452} I detached the MAF cable from the MAF, and I uninstalled the Engine Control Unit (ECU) from the trunk wall and detached the ECU cable from the ECU. I then measured the resistance between the following terminals. These results were: MAF 1 to DME 15: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 2 to DME 54: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 3 to DME 45: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 4 to DME 47: 0-0.5 Ohms MAF 5 to DME 17: 0-0.5 Ohms Based on the pinout of the MAF to DME, and according to Porsche Boxster, Boxster S Service Manual: 1997-2004 by Bently Publishers, I have a DME version 5.2.2. I'll have to update what the service manual descriptions of these terminals are tonight when I am near the book again. Then, with the MAF re-installed and the DME re-installed and all cables reconnected, I measured the following values: Engine @ idle, MAF 4 to MAF 3 is 5v. Engine @ idle, MAF 1 to MAF 3 is 3volts Engine @ idle, MAF 2 to MAF 3 is 13.6volts. Engine @ idle, MAF 3 to car ground is shorted. Engine @ idle, MAF 3 to MAF 5 is 1.38V. Engine @ 3000 RPM, MAF 3 to MAF 5 is 2volts. From these measurements, it appears as though the MAF is running properly. Could someone confirm? Other tests/info: I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, which had no effect. I drove the car with the MAF cable removed from the MAF and the car drove exactly the same as with the MAF cable connected. I bought the car with the P0112 error code showing, so I don't know what the car drove like without it. That said, the car does not have difficulty idling and is definitely faster than my 2008 Corolla LE. I can't say if it is as responsive or as quick as it should be, however. To try to find vacuum leaks, I sprayed carburetor cleaner on literally everything I could see in the engine with the top engine cover removed. the engine speed did not change from idle at any point during the carburetor cleaner test did. With the engine off, the MAF removed, and the air temp around 60-70°F, I measured the MAF terminals below. MAF 1 to MAF 3 is 1.7 kOhm. Maf 2 to everything is either open loop or megaohms. Then, with engine still off and the MAF removed, I breathed on the thermistor and read the following values: MAF 1 to MAF 3 is 1.4kOhm Maf 2 to everything is either open loop or megaohms. Based on a DME 7.8 manual, the IAT is supposed to read 2.3-2.7kOhms at ~20°C. Which would put the resistance of my IAT (1.4-1.7kOhms) a little low. Does anyone have a DME 5.2.2 manual to confirm what the resistance of IAT (pin 1 to 3) should be? If this resistance is OK, then does anyone have ideas as to what else the problem could be? It seems like my current options are: Replace MAF (~$250 <http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-606-123-00-M14&catalog_description=>) Vacuum system smoke test Re-flash DME (~$400) Replace DME(~$1000 min) I've read bad things about using after-market MAF's, so I will only be replacing w/ official MAF if that is the correct path to take. -
Hi all! Many months ago I had a problem with the MAF shutting down the engine/staffing it on startup (tried cleaning it no luck). I disconnected the MAF and it ran fine on the default values, just burning more fuel. Now its time to get my emissions test so I bit the bullet and bought a new Bosch MAF. I installed the MAF, and the durametric software cleared the fault codes and the new MAF is giving off normal values hovering around 10-13 on car idle. The issue I am having is that I am receiving multiple misfires on all the cylinders through the Durametric software when the new MAF is connected. When I disconnect the mass airflow sensor I obviously get a check engine light, but I get 0 misfires on any of the cylinders. I know that the maf is brand-new and is putting out valid values so I don't think that is the problem. The car is about 9 years old as it is a 2005 base Boxster 2.7 L engine and has never had its spark plugs coils for replaced (old owner was an idiot!). The car has 83,000 km on it. My initial guess is that the spark plugs need to be replaced or potentially the coil packs. Is this assumption correct? Two other items to take into account is that the old MAF was covered in oil and there was a small puddle of oil in the intake system/velum. Also when the mass airflow sensor was disconnected the engine would start obviously a little rougher but there was a plume of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Now that the sensor is replaced, the white smoke has disappeared. I thought that this may have been up potential AOS problem, but maybe it was just an issue with airflow sensor in disconnected. The other item to take into account is that I have a constant issue with the cooling system flushing the coolant out of the car (near the right rear wheel) when I shut off the engine I checked the coolant tank and it appears to be fine with no cracks but I was told that it may be the coolant CAP Issue - not sure how a coolant cap makes a difference, but this is what I was told. I have not investigated this issue yet as I'm trying to deal with the codes that are generating the misfires now (priority as I need to pass the emissions test) that I replace the mass airflow sensor which I am assuming once again that it may just be spark plugs and or the coils. What do you think? Any help is much appreciated! -
I noticed the dealer price for a MAF is $500-$600 when the same part number in a Bosch box is ~$200. Is there something special about the one the dealers source? Is there some value add or is it simply demand driven to the age of these cars? Based on reading several posts, stick with the model you have in your car when purchasing a new one. Posting this info in case others need it: 99660612300 non-egas a.k.a cable throttle (Bosch Part # 0280217007) 99660612400 e-gas or M620 option C4's and others (Bosch Part #0280218009) 99660612500 or 99660612501 newer egas version from 2002 up but may require firmware update of DME (Bosch Part #0280218055) both numbers are stamped on the side of the MAF -
I have an oil change coming up and I plan on changing the air filter in my 1999 C2 at that time. Is it worth pulling the MAF and cleaning it while I'm there? Last time I checked it with the Durametric, the readings were in spec, so I don't think it's that dirty. I am just unsure whether periodically cleaning it will extend the MAF's life by reducing the likelihood of build up, or if it will reduce its life due to applying chemical cleaners. Thank you! -
Hi, Today I tackled my first DIY service on a 2006 c2. After the service the engine check light turned on, any help would be great!!! Here is exactly what I did: - I wanted to check the spark plugs so removed 2 coils and 2 sp, I put them back on as they were clean. I plugged the coils back on, screwed them back on. - changed oil and filter. - change air filter, cleaned the Maf carefully with Maf cleaner without touching any component - cleaned the inside of the throttle body as it was somewhat dirty. Dried it completely before putting it back on and changed the seal. Note that when I cleaned it I moved the internal part to clean thoroughly. - topped off coolant Thank you for your thoughts and tips!!! -
My 2002 turbo tiptronic occasionally almost stalls when coming to a stop while it's warming up. It dips down to 500rpm or so, maybe even less, but it then bounces back up and keeps running. It stalled on me completely a couple times, but that stopped once i replaced the air filter. I've tried cleaning the MAF, and I *think* that it helps, but i can't convince myself that the MAF is the problem because it's rather intermittent. I tried capturing some durametric logs, here's the relevant part: RPM THR KPH MAF V AFR 801 4.3 16 1.5 0.92 0.89 778 4.3 15 1.46 0.93 0.9 732 4.3 14 1.5 0.94 0.92 711 5.7 13 1.64 0.95 0.93 695 5.8 12 1.59 0.96 0.94 658 5.9 11 1.62 0.97 0.95 627 7.3 10 1.73 0.98 0.97 606 10.1 9 1.96 0.99 0.99 602 11.3 8 1.99 1 1.02 604 12.4 7 1.99 1.06 1.07 532 12.1 6 1.88 1.15 1.13 578 17.6 5 1.97 1.24 1.18 558 16.1 4 1.88 1.29 1.22 659 11.6 3 1.75 1.31 1.24 778 5.2 3 1.44 1.25 1.19 855 5.2 2 1.55 1.17 1.15 The weird thing is that the throttle actual value goes up as the car slows down, but i don't know if that's in response to the MAF reading, or if the MAF reading changes because of the throttle. Either way, other symptoms would kinda go along with a bad MAF, such as occasional rough idle, when i let off the accelerator and than step back on it it sort of burps(?) Anyway, does anyone know if this sounds like a dying MAF or not? I don't have any CEL's, but I know it's possible for the MAF to be on the way out without hitting those. I'd try driving without the MAF plugged in, but the symptoms aren't constant, so it'd be hard to prove anything. Thanks!
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I have a 996 3.4l (1999) tiptronic with 140'000km. The engine was rebuild at 80'000km and the tiptronic rebuild at 100'000km. I face a strange problem since many month. I try to explain symptom in chronological order. - When it rain during the night, I need to start two time the car. The car start alway from the first power on, but no power at all. I need just to power off and re power on and the car work fine. - One month after, the car is running on 4-5 cylinder after the second power on... lot of missfire. - The garagist change all 6 spark, 6 coil, the AOS (leak problem), the MAF and the two lamda probe... Now the car run almost good except: ans this is my question. Could you help? When i drive slowly (following car) between 1'500 and 2'000 rpm (rpm important) in 3 or 4 gear (tiptronic) and I would like to speed up to overtake a car, the engine do not ramp up rpm, lot of missfire, the gear do not swith to 2 quickly and accelerate...! When i accelerate from 3'000 to 6'000 no problem the car run very well. Now, the garage tell me it is a tiptronic problem...? Could you help me on the road to find a solution ? Thanks in advance
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The MAF in my 2001 996 turbo died. I called the dealer in Oregon from whom I buy my parts and they wanted $570, and told me this was down from MSRP of about $770. I bought the Bosch unit from Amazon.com for $149.95 with free shipping. It is an exact replacement; it even has the Porsche part number on it. I just wanted to pass this on because it was such a good deal. -
I'm tring to find out what MAF (Mass Air Flowsensor) was used for this car: http://www.supercars.../cars/1627.html See picture of the Yellow one. The previous owner scrapped the old MAF and nobody know what should be installed. (Not even at Gemballa, They do not hold these records anymore). Is there anyone out there with a simmiliar car and willing to check the partnumber for me??? Location of this NAF, see:
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I am having a few issues with my 2001 turbo. The problem is undoubtedly the previous owner, but besides that, I have some other issues. The car is throwing a PSM/ABS light after driving for anywhere over like 15 minutes or so. When I got the car it had a BMC filter, so I suspected the MAF may be the issue from the oil on the filter or just dirt. So I pulled the BMC and replaced it with porsche paper ( the car now consistently pulls 1.0+ bar ) and then pulled the MAF and cleaned it thoroughly. After cleaning the MAF, I drove it and the difference was unreal, perfectly smooth shifting, no more strange increased RPM's at idle, no more surging under load, random smoke puffs at startup, or rougher shifting. It felt like a different vehicle all together, but after driving for about 15 minutes, the feeling started to go away back to the earlier symptoms and then the PSM/ABS lights came on again. I tried to run the lights but they dont register as CEL's so I get no code from just a normal OBDII reader. I pulled the bosche MAF again and the part number is the newest 125 one. From what I know the 2001 turbos started with the 123 part number, had problems and switched to the 124 part# mid year, and ultimately to the 125 because the 124's were still succeptible to dirt sensitivity and malfunctions like the 123's were. I also know that the 125 requires some $1500 upgrades to the ECU to work properly with the car. My question is how I can determine if the ugrade has been done? also if the veterans here agree with my assumption that the MAF is in fact the correct diagnosis, or just help in general. Thanks a lot guys!
