Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'rms'.
Found 7 results
-
NOTICE: The correct depth is 13mm (not 14mm like stated in this message) from the crank as of April 16, 2014. Check update info from forums like renntech.org before installation. If one takes his time and is continuously taking measurements from multiple positions, is it reasonably possible to install RMS without the expensive special tools that Porsche pros use? These tools are hard to source with a reasonable price. And I cannot find a single person to do this job on my region. The closest Porsche mechanic is over 100 miles away and I'd not like to haul my engine on another car. Regarding the steps, I'd first clean my crankcase using Isopropyl Alcohol, use clean gloves and only touch the outer rim of new RMS when setting it to the crank. Then tap it gently cross wise pattern to the correct depth with a plastic cylinder part that matches the outer diameter of RMS, constantly taking measurements when expecting the reach of 14mm from crank. Also, should one put a touch of Curil T on the outer rim of RMS or simply let it be? I know some people do that. In any case the inner rim should be left alone. I have to tell this seems a bit strange why the RMS leaks so easily, usually these seals just work, and what it is with the fact that you cannot use lubricate at all as the seal works under the stress of oil constantly. Nevertheless, I'll follow the instructions and go in dry! Thank you!
-
ims repair on tiptronic
HomePro posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I plan to replace the RMS and IMSB on my 2003, Carrera, Coupe, 3.6, Tiptronic. I have read about the MB version of the Tiptronic requiring the removal of the trans/engine together while the ZF can be removed separately. Is this true and how can I determine which one that I have? I crawled underneath and could not see an I.D. tag. So far I have found conflicting information regarding the trans. in this car. -
Anyone else tried this? "The GT3 Motorsport seal (not a Porsche standard part) is the same bore size as the 996/997 seal but has two protective flanges at the rear. If fitted in reverse the inner flange forces itself to flip backwards and touch the outer flange which is already forced onto the crank with a spring. This prevents any oil from possibly leaking even if the bore is out of tolerance."
-
Hi Everyone, My name is Andy, based in Swansea, South Wales, UK. Having just bought my first Porsche (an '02 C4S) with 70K on the clock - I have been googling my little socks off looking at all things 996! I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this car - never owned anything that goes round corners like it... the downside is, it keeps me lying awake worrying about it - but I think that's the usual new car paranoia, which will settle down! Having found loads and loads of excellent posts written on this forum I decided to sign up, say hi and hopefully pick a few brains! Currently, I am making myself extremely paranoid about the whole IMS issue! The reason for this is there is a little bit of oil at the base of the engine (eg the normal IMS / RMS leaky bit - according to images on the web). The leak is VERY, VERY slow (more just damp) and is not dripping or anything (have wiped, driven and nothing much more coming back down). The question I have is this. There seems to be some discrepancy in information regarding leaks in this area. Some people seem to be suggesting that leaks in this area are NOT related to internal (eg potentially catastrophic) IMS issues as the "problem" bearing is actually sealed inside the engine behind the outer seal and therefore leaks from the outer seal are not relevant, they are just that, leaks from the outer seal and cause no damage, just irritation - and possibly the owner paying a bit more attention to oil levels! Others seem to suggest that vibration caused by wear to the internal bearing cause the outer seal to leak, and therefore one SHOULD be worried. Can anyone provide any clarification on this, should I panic / stop driving / do an oil change and check for metal / jump out the window / drive it like I stole it? In short, I don't want to waste a load of money if not necessary - are there any rules of thumb? Incidentally, I'm not worried if it's just a very slow oil-leak from a seal I can deal with that in due course! I'm sure this topic has been gone-over ad nauseum, so apologies, but can't seem to find definitive answers! (maybe because they don't exist!) Best regards, all - and thanks! Andy -
Hello there, my car is an early 2004 996 C4 Cab, 3.6L, 85k miles. Good stuff on my DropBox folder: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/p62gwxshg2zath4/0wYS9yrgfv Engine has not been started for 4 months. Actually it has been on a huge container for 2+ months and just few weeks ago I got the time to start working with my car again. Just before taking these pictures, note that I did wash my engine and transmission while they were still connected to each other, that might explain the glossy oil spots near my IMS (or not). Four months ago, underneath the car it looked that I get a tiny amount of oil after I drive around 500 miles, sometimes even a drop of oil to my garage floor if I drive a lot more. The drop comes right to the spot which usually indicates RMS/IMS leak. Then again, my AOS has been spitting lots of oil out from the connectors and the drop might originate from there too, impossible to say as front left side of the engine near AOS was so full of oil and gunk. I've changed my oil now twice, both the oil and filter ripped open has looked really really clean but this is based solely on human eye :-) I'd like to get a few second opinions to my questions, hopefully this thread is usefull to others too. 1) How does my RMS / IMS look in general? I'd say the leak is reasonably small, most gunk originates from clutch, would you feel the same? 2) Would you change my RMS or just leave it be? It has already been changed once at some point. 3) What exactly seems to be leaking here? To me it seems to be the IMS, but strangely enough the bottom part right below the IMS cover was completely clean (just zoom the images and remember that I washed my tranny and engine just before separating them). 4) Which bolts would you change while doing the IMS? Looking at the pictures, many change bolt numbers 4, 5, 6 and 7, how about you? 5) Curiosity question, what parts are not original? My RMS must be new as the part number is 997.101.212.00. IMS looks old, part number K.99602401 (?). Also would you also feel that many of these bolts have been changed as they look past year 2004 bolts, right? PS. I have a new RMS, LN bearing + tools waiting for the installation.. Big Kudos to everyone who got this far, hope you'll inspect my DropBox picture folder too!
-
Boxster-mates, I did end up with a decent size oil leak, this morning. At the shop, when inspected underneath, it does seem to come from near where the transmission connects the motor. Per my mechanic, there were no metal pieces in the filter when the oil was changed at 130K miles - and it may be unlikely that the IMS may be going bad by the current mileage of 134.5K. While I don't experience slippage when shifting, does it make sense to bite the bullet and get the clutch, upgraded IMS, RMS and all of the required components replaced at this point. My mechanic recommended that I drive it for another 3k miles and see how the oil spill continues before scheduling for the replacements along with the oil change. Would I be risking the motor in any way by doing so? Also how much should the total cost come to, if done at an Indy shop? Thanks for your thoughts, V
-
This above referenced car is sitting at my local Porsche dealer. The car currently has 36500 miles. When I looked at the CARFAX the following service was completed at Beverly Hills Porsche (4-08 @ 22,800 miles)Transmission removed to complete repair Fuel filler cap secured, Front crankshaft oil seal replaced Engine cleaned Transmission checked. Had the dealer call BHP and they also replaced the clutch but no intermediate shaft bearing. Have requested the DME but have yet to get a reply. Will obviously get a PPI should I get a favorable response. Should I stay or should I go on to something else? Ron
