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Found 6 results

  1. Hi all, 2000 Boxster 2.7L Tiptronic, 117k miles. Geared up for an oil change and chain tensioner(s) replacement in the coming week. I would like to adjust timing while I'm in there (I have cam deviation readings at cold startup and after 30min drive, and have confirmed proper function of the variocam solenoids). I have not gotten under/in the car yet to determine if there is enough space to do this with the engine in the car as I am in the part-ordering stage. Just wanted to get your input on this so I can get all my ducks in row with respect to all parts I need to perform the work. Timing adjustment appears to be straightforward in itself. I just don't know if I will be able to see/access the camshaft sprocket bolts once the pump is removed from each bank. If access is achievable then I will go ahead and order the scavenge pump o-rings and new encapsulated bolts to perform the work. If this is an engine-out service, then, well, I'll just stick to the tensioners for now. Any input and guidance is greatly appreciated. On a side note, I have modeled and 3D printed a cam locking tool for the M96.22. It looked like everything out there for purchase was for the M96.23 and later models. I will let you know how it performs after I do the work, but if anyone is interested in the solid model or stl file just let me know. I have printed out a few extras just in case. Thanks for your help!
  2. I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me. When I picked up the car from Porsche it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at the end of the road and although I filled it up it the engine warning light remained on I assumed this was just fuel related and drove home with it on and reset it when I got home. Wind on a few weeks and the engine light came back on and gave me a camshaft position sensor error p0016 so I sent the car to my local Porsche mechanic who changed out the sensor and did a full service on the car including plugs filter oil etc etc. All this time the car has been running fine but as I wanted the sensor light out it was changed. However after changing it out the light came back on almost straight away. The car has been a bit sluggish to start sometimes and sometimes on pulling away from a stop has also been hesitant. This was about 3-4 weeks ago and now it is worse again, at tickover it’s noisy, it doesn’t like acceleration and is running really rough although if you are going over 50mph it doesn’t have a problem and seems to run fine. The EML is now flashing rather than being a solid light. I attach a video of it running. Any thoughts would be a help before I decide to get it hauled back across again Sent from my iPhone
  3. Recently I replace the Variocam Ramps on my 2002 boxster S. Reassembly went well but I have a timing problem for the cams afterwards, trying to figure out the fix. Bank one at Idle actual cam angle is about 6, deviation is blank. Once the car warms up to 180, the actual angle goes to close to zero, and the deviation is about 5 to 6. Bank 2 is as you would expect, actual angle around zero at cold idle, deviation around zero at warm idle. My recollection is that before disassembly the Durametric showed that actual angle at idle when cold was close to zero On bank one. I read that actual angle may not represent what I think it does, I read somewhere that it represents the amount of Variocam influence on the cams, not the actual timing. Can someone possibly explain what the actual angle means? Bonus points if someone can explain to me what exactly is wrong with my car, my best guess is either I have a bad variocam actuator problem or I assembled things with intake cam one tooth off. Regards, silber
  4. I am installing a new short block due to a scored cylinder and am having no luck finding proper camshaft timing tool and holder. I see lots of kits that say up to 2001? Any help would be appreciated.
  5. Here is a Camshaft Deviation situation with a much tighter focus than normal.I have also included the best links I found to help others who find this through Search.This is a 5 chain engine.2001.Boxster S. The engine is just rebuilt by me. It runs wonderfully well with no Fault Codes, none. Great oil pressure.compression even on all cylinders. New chains,but original tensioners,new wear pads,new IMSB, IMS shaft pinned. But Bank 1 Deviation is negative 8 degrees. Bank 2 is much less than 1 degree negative. Spec is max 6 degrees +/-. Deviation is rock solid on both Banks throughout the rev. range(except for normal Variocam change). No Pending or Active Codes. I recently had Bank 1 Cam Cover and Cams off to rectify an obscure VarioCam issue (Thank you PorscheTech3!). I re-timed the Cam on Bank 1 using the Baum Tools. The tools are excellent but clearly(?) need a degree of finesse in use that I was unaware of. 8 degrees CRK per Durametric is only 4 degrees at the cam so it is impossible to do a visual check of the slots in the Camshafts to confirm if this is a static cam timing issue or a Camshaft system component failure. So I am resigned to re-do the timing but need reassurance on the precise technique to use before I R&R the Cam Cover again. Cam Timing Details are in the links at the end of this Post. Here is the tentative plan that I hope others will be able to correct : Follow Procedure in links below to lock the Cam with the Baum Tools close to TDC. To get perfect Cam timing, I'll need to very slowly rotate the Crankshaft forward toward TDC. Only when the tools fit perfectly will I lock the Baum Cam Timing tool. Then I'll try to insert the TDC Crankshaft Locking Pin. Knowing that Bank 1 is excessively retarded 4 degrees(cam), I should expect that the Crankshaft Locking Pin will not slide in easily when the Cams are perfectly timed. At this stage I should loosen all the Camshaft Sprocket bolts. But not remove the (old) Chain Tensioner - right ? Then the Crankshaft should need rotating 'forward' 8 degrees until the Crankshaft Locking Pin slides in easily.Then tighten the Camshaft Sprocket bolts. Then rotate many times and re-check. The Bank 1 Timing Chain Tensioner is still very powerful and seems as 'strong' as Bank 2. When I refitted Bank 1 Tensioner last time, it required serious muscle to force it upward while delicately engaging the threads. So I assume it is functioning adequately and is not the cause of the out-of-range Camshaft Deviation .I am assuming it is original(90,000 miles). What other components should be checked ? I did check the Camshaft Position Sensor for correct fitment and the Reluctor ring for damage during the VarioCam repair. https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/594122-how-to-set-cam-timing-on-996-a.html see Post #7 http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/16-ENGINE-Camshaft_Swap_and_Chain_Tensioner/Gp1800.pdf Good dwg and description of mechanism and parts. Please add your best links if you have any in your replies so that this may help others with the Deviation issue? And thanks in advance for any suggestions and corrections.
  6. Hello everybody, recently has the engine of my Cayenne V6 ( Bj. 2004) sounds like a diesel. The sound is subjectively from the left side of engine ( in direction of travel). Coupled to the noise is uneven running in the state . The error occurred suddenly and without warning after I turned off the engine and about 2 minutes later started again. I have read the following Durametric 2015_03_14_12_55_03_Cayenne Logfile.pdferror codes: P0016 Position camshaft to the crankshaft Bank 1 - Upper limit value exceeded , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light P0300 Misfire detection checksum error - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light P0305 Misfire detection cyl. 5 - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light P0303 Misfire detection cyl. 3 - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light P0304 Misfire detection cyl. 4 - Implausible signal , test conditions are not- completed , fault is currently active and is not Causing a DTC light The measurements show strong deviations between the actual and setpoint ignition (partly > 16 ° ) and on all cylinders misfiring. Only on cylinder 4 absolutely no misfire is detected ( feather edge . But does not the evaluation ? ). At a higher speed, the deviation is significantly lower , but as soon as I go by the gas engine almost dies off. The data I 've attached a table as pdf. The engine is 140 thousand kilometers. At 100 TKM the complete timing chain drive incl. Camshaft adjuster was renewed ( elongated chain). Since then, the engine ran flawlessly and without any disturbance. I have checked the throttle and the LMM expanded and completely cleaned. The timing chain tensioner I have also expanded and it appears OK ( Piston moves freely ). The oil is inside for 9 tkm , spark plugs for 40 thousand kilometers. A car mechanic told me in a rough diagnosis everything points to disguised timing out ( timing chain ). In this context : Can the intake manifold (sorry I just remembered no better word , meaning the part in which distributes the air and is passed to the motor ) Remove without expanding the engine(to remove the valve cover ) ? Seems rather hard installed ? Does anyone have an idea on what the error or the running behavior might even suggest ? Timing chain would of course be the meltdown ... motor out etc .... Would be glad if I could get some input. Thank you in advance in advance
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