Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
-
OBD II P-Codes - Paint Codes
- Registry
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'tiptronic'.
-
Instrument cluster completely dark and gauges not moving. How to save $5000 in 3 easy steps. 2002 Boxster S 41,000 mile Tiptronic Here is my story, the problem AND THE SOLUTION. My story: I have a 2002 Boxster S which was sitting for approximately 6 months unused. As you might expect the battery was dead when I went to use it. It was easy to jump with a portable jumper starter. The car started right up and it was easy to drive. However, when I stopped to get gas, the dashboard instrument cluster went crazy and all the idiot lights came on. Even though I had driven the car for about a half-hour the battery was dead, so being prepared, I use my portable jumper starter. The car started up fine, however all the idiots lights stayed on. The instrument cluster otherwise worked. Drove home, left the doors slightly open so that I would not get locked out, and open the hood so I could get to the battery, then turned off the car. Shortly thereafter drove to get a battery, but now all the idiot lights were on and the instrument cluster was completely dark. Gauges were not moving. Nothing! The battery was replaced while the car was off. After restarting with a new battery, the gauges were not moving, the instrument cluster was dark and now only the check engine/oil pressure idiot light was on. Drove home and turned the car off. However, the check engine/oil pressure idiot light stayed on, even though the car was off. I asked my local mechanic who recommended, "Just take it to Porsche". So I called the Porsche dealer, who could not take the car for a week, but figured it needed a new instrument cluster and after diagnosing fees and the all the other fees and costs would be a few thousand dollars. So, I decided to search the web. I did not find an example exactly like mine, but after my research it seemed that the main computer might have been confused by too many low-voltage signals since the battery was weak. I was sure there had been no overvoltage situations or sparks. I had little to lose, so I thought I'd try the following which worked! The solution: Tools needed: 10 mm socket wrench and portable jumper starter. Step 1: Disconnect the negative (black) cable from the battery using a 10 mm socket wrench. Step 2: Wait overnight. Step 3: Reconnect the negative (black) cable to the battery using a 10 mm socket wrench. If needed use the portable jumper starter to start the car. Step 4: Smile and save $5000. The instrument cluster is working perfectly and all the idiot lights are off, even the radio works! Hope this helps someone else! -
I have a 2003 Boxster base model (2.7) with auto. Current showing code P0600 and DTE 61. Had a few different Porsche mechanics look at the issue and have not found a solution. Cleaned the electrical connection at the transmission and verified the ground connections at the tiptronic control module. Had the DME, tiptronic module and immobilizer checked and they were found to be working. Does the Can-bus connection between the DME and the tiptronic module extend to the immobilizer or other modules? All I could find is information up to the 2001 model year. Looking for a reason why the DME Is not communicating with the tiptronic and how to test the Can-bus circuit. Is there a wiring schematic available for the 2003/2004 boxster? Thanks, jason -
Hi all, 2000 Boxster Tiptronic with 113k mi. I recently removed the transmission to deal with another issue, but while doing so some of the brittle SAI hoses cracked and/or became disassembled. I have replaced the cracked lines (i.e. not all of the lines) and reconnected according to the following picture, with the exception that I have a Tiptronic and there is a hose that runs to a changeover valve on the transmission: I get the typical SAI codes, P0410 (80) and P1411 (208), about every 150mi driven. Otherwise the car drives great...SAI pump is running and holding air as usual. Presumably, I have something connected incorrectly, possibly with respect to connection to the transmission changeover valve. The one thing I notice different than before removing the transmission is that the car seems to be running cooler than before. I suspect this could be caused by the changeover valve for the transmission as I think it controls the flow of coolant to the ATF cooler (not sure about this and hoping for clarification). The other thing that I don't really suspect, is that the new hoses used do not have the small bulbed end to help with that snap-fit into the intake sleeves. I have not found a good image showing the SAI hose routing for a 986 Tiptronic, so if anyone knows of one I would be very grateful. I have the Bentley manual which also does not show a Tiptronic-specific diagram for SAI routing. Any other ideas or does this sound like simply incorrect hose connections? Many thanks for your input!
-
I need to replace the ATF wiring harness in my 2002 986 w/tiptronic due to a defective temperature sensor that forms part of it. I have been unable to find any information as to what it entails and / or how it can be replaced. Appreciate any insight. -
I need some help reconnecting the vacuum hoses on my '03. Had to remove tiptronic to repair it, and either have a broken vacuum hose, and/or am as lost as I can be. I can't figure it out. Here is the vacuum diagram from the trunk. Part of the problem is, that I can't identify all the parts. The "white" connector goes into the intake. Off of that is a "Y". The "Yellow" line (vacuum hose) goes nowhere that I can tell. I am sure it connects somewhere, I just can't tell where. It is long. The "Pink" end of the "Y" is open. I am sure something sticks in there, just not too sure what. The "Green" line (vacuum hose) connects to what I believe is the Resonance Flap Valve. However, it is either broken (and connects with the "Blue" line (vacuum hose)), or inserts into the "Pink" end of the "Y". Not too sure which. The other end of the "Blue" line (vacuum hose) connects to a 4 way "Cross fitting", that connects to the vacuum reservoir. Shown as connection #1 below. I guess the upper end of the "Blue line" (vacuum hose) could connect to the "Pink" arm of the "Y". Again, not too sure. It is entirely possible, that the "Blue" and "Green" line is a broken line. If this is the case, not too sure what would plug into the "Pink" on the "Y". #2 "White" line (vacuum line) attaches to a switch, that I believe is associated with the tiptronic transmission. The lower end of the hose connects to the "Cross" fitting that is by the vacuum reservoir. The "Purple" line (vacuum line) is attached to a valve that controls coolant that goes to the tiptronic. #3 Line disappears somewhere deep into the engine somewhere. Can anyone help? Thanks!
-
Hi. Im new in this forum, and i registered search for help, so thanks in advance. I bought a 97 boxster tiptronic, with no issues at all. Scanned, everything was ok. Then i started to read about the model, and i was concerned about de IMS, so i replaced it with parts from Pelican. I took the oportunity to drain the torque converter and replace fluid (filters gaskets also) on the tiptronic transmission. Then my mechanic built everything, and the lights on the gear and lever on the panel were blinking. Also cant use "manual mode" nor the 5th gear. He checked everything, but the problem are still there. Searched on the interenet, seems to be something called "limited driving programme" where the transmision limits itself in event of a failure. On the internet also i found most of time is related with transmision servicing, but i changed all fluid (torque converter including). I used the recomended ATF by manual (pentosin) and changed filter, gaskets from ZF (the transmission manufacturer). Sadly, i live on a small city in Northern Chile, almost 2000km from a Porsche authorized mechanic in capital, Santiago, so its not an option to take the car there. My mechanic here is a really honest guy, but he seems to not understand this transmission. I dont know what to do, but ill scan the car in a few hours. Any advice will be hughely appreciated guys. Thanks a lot. Branko -
Can anyone offer advice on this please. The car is a recent purchase, 2002 4S Coupe with 92k miles. Drove fine for the first month, but now a whining noise sounds as if it’s is coming from somewhere behind the dash/firewall/front axle area. The whine varies with engine speed/gear selection, so it presumably can’t be from the tiptronic transmission or front axle otherwise it would vary with road speed. However, the noise completely disappears when the a/c blower is turned off. I’m not great on electrics but was wondering if the blower fan might be failing and needing more alternator output at higher revs? I haven’t noticed anything untoward on the voltmeter. The a/c needs a re-gas, but I can’t think that can have any relevance? Any thoughts much appreciated. -
I had a bearing/seal failure in my 2003 Boxster w/Tiptronic, and need to replace the torque converter and the oil pump. I have removed the transmission from the car and taken off the pan, filter, torque converter, and the control valves. I have also removed all the bolts from front of the oil pump housing. In online videos, they show two plastic tubes that need to be removed, before the pump will pull out. These were on ZF5HP19 transmissions for BMW and other cars. However, the Tiptronic for our cars, Boxsters, is a ZF5HP19FL. A slightly different monster. When I try to pull on the oil pump, to remove it, it doesn't budge. I don't want to go forcing it, without knowing the proper steps to remove it. Does anyone know the proper steps to remove the oil pump?
-
Hello, Please help, I just got my first Porsche and have a bit of bad luck lately. The latest is that I was out driving and all was well. I backed it into the garage and parked it. I noticed I needed to pull it in a little bit more. So I started it up, put it into reverse and the panel said "Selector Lever Not Engaged". So I slid it back into park. Waited a bit and then put it into drive hoping to get the shifter engaged thinking it was just a fluke. When I put it in D, the car started to back up. So the current configuration results in Park = parked, Reverse = Nothing, not even neutral, Neutral = Revers, Drive = Reverse. I've read a number of suggestions regarding "...Not Engaged" and they seem a little different than mine. Some suggestions are selector switch, cable is loose, transmission is blown, ... Anyone with more experience than me on this have an idea where to start or how to rule some things out? The car is a 2002 996 C2 Tiptronic -
The tiptronic is actually excellent but im a manual man at heart. The car has very few miles and the value is high so the swap could be worth it. (Theres no way I’d sell it and buy a manual as I’m only the second owner and I knew the first owner very well). Does anyone have real experience or steps I’d need to go though and costs?
-
Odd one for the group here: I have a 2004 Turbo Cab (manual) with X50 that I have owned since early 2010 and put around 30K miles on in that time (Bought with ~20k miles). I recently found a 2004 Turbo Cab (Tiptronic) with ~29,000 miles that was such a good deal that my parents purchased it. I drove the thing recently while visiting and a couple times in constant-radius turns on back roads, the PSM intervened out of nowhere (The first time it happened I actually thought I hit a shift button with my thumb and downshifted mid corner). Anyway, I got it to intervene once more in a pretty benign turn. There certainly wasn't 7 degrees of slip angle and I have to push my own car much harder (read: screw up the corner entry) to get PSM to intervene. I guess my question(s) is/are this: Is there a difference in the PSM software between the Tiptronic cars and Manual?, a malfunction in the Tip? Very interested to hear the responses. Thanks
-
ims repair on tiptronic
HomePro posted a topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
I plan to replace the RMS and IMSB on my 2003, Carrera, Coupe, 3.6, Tiptronic. I have read about the MB version of the Tiptronic requiring the removal of the trans/engine together while the ZF can be removed separately. Is this true and how can I determine which one that I have? I crawled underneath and could not see an I.D. tag. So far I have found conflicting information regarding the trans. in this car. -
Hi All, I'm a noob to this forum looking for some advice if possible. My car is a 1998 996 911 C2. Last year I had an issue with a cam shaft positioning sensor that meant my car had gear change issues at high revs in either manual or full auto modes. It would get to the point of changing gear in either mode and would struggle to change and if looking at the dash the LED's would jump between the gear selected and manual/auto modes. This was identified that a reluctor ring on the cam shaft itself was bent so not allowing the positioning sensor to identify the cam shaft speed. I had the engine removed and this issue rectified along with the LN IMS bearing upgrade, new oil separator, new oil filter, oil change & new rear main seal on the engine going back in. This was just shy of £2k of parts & labour at the end of last summer. I have hardly driven the car since this (few hundred miles) as I had it moth balled over winter as was considering selling it and wanted to not put any miles on (76k on clock). I've been driving the car recently. It starts perfectly and sounds sweet but I think the above fault has come back. Just looking to see if anybody else has encountered a similar fault and what would be the best path to take from here? Should I go back to the same service centre asking them to re-check the issue or get a second opinion. I can't afford many more £2k bills on the car!!! Thanks all in advance... Ash -
I have just finished installation of a new water pump, thermostat and coolant reservoar cap (OEM Porsche parts) in my 996 C2 Targa/Tiptronic 2002 and is now ready to do a vacuum coolant fill mixed to factory specs. When I read different instructions for manual filling/bleeding coolant system in a 996 equipped with Tiptronic gearbox they instruct: ” On Tiptronic vehicles, the pneumatically triggered coolant shutoff valve (flat-seat valve) must be opened for the bleeding process. The electric switch-over valve must be switched off for this purpose. Triggering can be performed with the Porsche System Tester 2 or by pulling out the Tiptronic control module fuse B-1 with the ignition switched off.” I can´t see this comment in any instruction for vacuum coolant fill. So, before i start the process my humble question is: Is this comment also relevant to a vacuum coolant fill on a Tiptronic car? If it is, shall the ignition be switched on during filling process? /Swedespeed -
This message keeps randomly displaying after I've been driving the car a while. I don't notice any problems with the transmission shifting either automatically or with the paddles and at times when I just let off the accelerator the message goes away. One thing I do notice when I park the car after driving it awhile is a hot oily smell. Do you think it's the transmission fluid getting to hot? I sure don't know what it is, but any ideas on what it is and what to do would be greatly appreciated. Thx. Jeff
-
Looked at a 2004 996 with 72,000 km on it. The test drive resulted in the display the message 'Selector Lever Not Engaged'. This was after having driven the car about 10-15 mins and shortly having switched it into manual mode, run it through the gears and then put it back into Auto. There was NO indication of a tranny problem otherwise. Getting it back to the shop, fiddling around with the shifter got it to display the message one more time, but it went away quickly after moving the lever more. I don't want to buy a car with a Tiptronic problem, and the matter is complicated by living in Japan, the car being over two hours from where I live, and repairs would be even more costly here than most other places. The shop selling it is going to inquire with a dealer/repair shop. The deal is done if this issue can be resolved. Can anybody offer any insight to the cause of this problem, the cost to fix such, etc -
Hello, I am new to renntech.org and hope I am posting in the correct area. I recently acquired a 2001 boxster 2.7L with the tiptronic. Once my car gets up to temp the "D" and "4" begin to flash in an alternating pattern. The shifting or driving characteristics do not change and no CEL light appears. I have read many threads on this topic as to what could be causing it. The flashing lights typically do not last very long. I am trying to figure out how to check for any tiptronic codes it may have. I have a wireless scan tool I use with my iPhone (dash command app). I do not believe this method will allow me to read any tiptronic codes if any. My questions are: 1. If I have the flashing "D" and "4", shouldn't it give a code? 2. Is there any tools out their that will read such codes or do I need access to a Durametric tool? 3. Any other advice would be appreciated. Thank you, Chris
-
Porsche is notorious for their conservative performance numbers when advertising their cars acceleration stats. That being said, they list the 997.1 Carrera 4/Targa's are going 0-60 in 5.4 with the tiptronic transmission. I've searched all over the net but cant seem to find a magazine which tested one of these cars with the tip trans. I know the car is way faster then 5.4 0-60 as I also own an infiniti G37s coupe which has the same peformance numbers claimed but my targa easily rips it by several car lengths to 60. Any idea how fast these cars actually are? -
Hi, I have 2002 996 C2 Targa tiptronic (with Mercedes Benz) I have been lurking for a while now and this forum has been invaluable. I had an intermixing problem, I thought the worst. I pulled the engine and transmission suspecting I had a cracked cylinder head. Imagine my joy when I pressure tested the oil cooler and it started to bubble through from the oil way to the water way, I also found a broken water pump impeller in the oil cooler. So the oil cooler was replaced. Well whist I had the motor was out I took the opportunity to replace IMS with the LN one, RMS, AOS, water pump, low temp thermostat, new plugs, oil filer, coolant tank and I treated her to an engine detail, PSE MkII hack & a set coli-overs. I can’t believe after all that I am now stumped when it comes to which AFT to use. I want to use a Porsche ATF, my parts supplier here in Dubai is an Indy garage that also supply genuine Porsche parts. They have supplied AFT part# 00004320490 which is a red ATF but the AFT that drains from my Trans is a yellow colour. I have double checked with them and they said the part number cross checks against the VIN number. 4 months ago I had the Indy change the AFT, filter and pan gasket, they confirmed that the same part number ATF was used then. I think the part number they are using is for a 20litre barrel, they sold me 4 litres which was put in to another container (no lable). All my searching has been inconclusive all I seem to conclude is that I need part# 00004330401 or Fuchs Titan ATF3533. But I cannot tell if that is what I have. Does the ATF loose its red colour? Would this explain why my fuild is yellow and not red. I checked the Fuchs data sheet and it said it was red in colour. Is one part number for one size and the other part number is the same thing but in a different size? Please if someone can help I can get my transmission filled and get the car back on the road, I am dying to drive and test it but I do not what to trash the trans. VIN number can be supplied if needed. Regards, Rob.
-
Hi I recently purchased a 2003 996 C4S Tiptronic, Its my first Porsche and also my first Auto gearbox. I notice when cold on start up there is quite a loud whine when breaking and changing down its not as loud or an issue when warmed up. Is this normal or is there a possible gearbox, Diff or brake issue that needs attention. -
Lately my 2001 Boxster S tiptronic has been throwing a P0710 code. This is indicated first by my transmission selector lights flashing alternately between D and 4. Otherwise the transmission behaves normally, shifting up and down, in both auto and manual modes. Information on this is sketchy. My durametric tells me that the code (P0710) is a Transmission temperature sensor fault. I would first like to check the sensor, a procedure which is briefly outlined in a repair manual ("Check sender for ATF temperature with wiring. To do this connect an ohmmeter to control module connector pins 21 and 22...etc.) Now there's a box in my rear trunk that's supposed to be the control unit but where exactly are the connector pins 21 and 22 located? Sorry if I seem a bit dense here. :unsure: -James -
My 2002 turbo tiptronic occasionally almost stalls when coming to a stop while it's warming up. It dips down to 500rpm or so, maybe even less, but it then bounces back up and keeps running. It stalled on me completely a couple times, but that stopped once i replaced the air filter. I've tried cleaning the MAF, and I *think* that it helps, but i can't convince myself that the MAF is the problem because it's rather intermittent. I tried capturing some durametric logs, here's the relevant part: RPM THR KPH MAF V AFR 801 4.3 16 1.5 0.92 0.89 778 4.3 15 1.46 0.93 0.9 732 4.3 14 1.5 0.94 0.92 711 5.7 13 1.64 0.95 0.93 695 5.8 12 1.59 0.96 0.94 658 5.9 11 1.62 0.97 0.95 627 7.3 10 1.73 0.98 0.97 606 10.1 9 1.96 0.99 0.99 602 11.3 8 1.99 1 1.02 604 12.4 7 1.99 1.06 1.07 532 12.1 6 1.88 1.15 1.13 578 17.6 5 1.97 1.24 1.18 558 16.1 4 1.88 1.29 1.22 659 11.6 3 1.75 1.31 1.24 778 5.2 3 1.44 1.25 1.19 855 5.2 2 1.55 1.17 1.15 The weird thing is that the throttle actual value goes up as the car slows down, but i don't know if that's in response to the MAF reading, or if the MAF reading changes because of the throttle. Either way, other symptoms would kinda go along with a bad MAF, such as occasional rough idle, when i let off the accelerator and than step back on it it sort of burps(?) Anyway, does anyone know if this sounds like a dying MAF or not? I don't have any CEL's, but I know it's possible for the MAF to be on the way out without hitting those. I'd try driving without the MAF plugged in, but the symptoms aren't constant, so it'd be hard to prove anything. Thanks!
-
Hello All, My 04 S has recently started doing some wired stuff between the shifter, dash display, the tip tronic controls on the steering wheel and shifter +/-. The strangeness started 6 months or so ago when it would occasionally go into Manual mode. A quick flip of the shifter into M and back into D fixed it. Most recently, it has decided that it prefers M over D. Flipping the shifter back and forth rarely fixes it now. Other things to note: (observations) most of the time, the LED indicator on the shifter only shows it in +/- regardless of position. The dash shows the correct position except for D. some of the time, the LED indicator shows nothing. The dash is correct except for D. most of the time, using the shifter +/- to change gears does not work. Have to use steering wheel controls. some of the time the steering wheel controls will not downshift. (REAL annoying!!) they always upshift. The problem seems to be worst in the mornings when cold and better once everything get warmed up. Looking thru the forum, I'm torn between the transmission control unit or the micro switches/magnets around the shifter. Any thoughts?? Thanks, Trey Cooper -
hey guys, this is my first post in hopes of coming to a conclusion, i currently have a 1998 porsche boxster with tiptronic transmission, the following problems are as follows. 1.when in parking the car doesnt stop 2.when in automatic drive car doesnt go to 3rd gear it jumps from 2nd to safe mode with a big kick 3.when left on first gear in manual mode car exhaust sound gets louder, and when letting of the gas does big kick to safe mode 4.when the car is turned on and switched to manual the tiptronic controls only lets me move up to 2nd gear. i was thinking it was the transmission ecu but it wasnt, i have tried 2 other ecu's one with the exact serial codes as the original (besides actual ecu serial) and still same problem Might it just be the transmission itself? if so where can i buy rebuild parts? and guide on how to. I really need to get this figured out any advice would be helpful, thank-you for your time :)
-
I have recently heard that there is an upgrade tiptronic gearbox oil/fluid available in the market which should give a better response for the Tip box. Does this really work? Have anyone tried before? I am interested to learn as I have realized that the tip at high revs seems not responding as good when compares to mid to low range revs. Thx
