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'02 Boxster S Does Not Pass Emissions


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Thanks Loren. You referred me back to this thread. :(

Did I miss something?

It has been over 3 weesk and I havev cold started the car more than 30 times.

The car has been driven over 200 miles since reset.

So I take it there is no known formular for the test.

Does anyone know what routine/procedure must run to pass CAT?

The OBD II reader shows all tests have run (Ready) but CAT and it's been over 200 miles since OBD was reset.

According to the OBD spec, the CAT test runs everytime you drive and I wonder why this one is still shown as not ready.

I would really appreciate if someone clearly explains how this test is run.

Here are 2 pictures taken on the same day. March 23, 2007. My registration was due March 26th.

First picture all 5 rediness codes are set. Second picture none are set.

Don't remember what I did. Probably disconnected the battery to put it on my workbench for testing and charging, or playing around with the PST2. I know I ended up replacing the battery July 31, 2007.

All I know I was not ready for testing, but I had paid my registration fees on time.

When I finally had the test on December 7, 2007, the measured levels from the sniffer were well below the max, except for HC which was equal to the max.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=102491

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Thanks Loren. You referred me back to this thread. :(

Did I miss something?

It has been over 3 weesk and I havev cold started the car more than 30 times.

The car has been driven over 200 miles since reset.

So I take it there is no known formular for the test.

Does anyone know what routine/procedure must run to pass CAT?

The OBD II reader shows all tests have run (Ready) but CAT and it's been over 200 miles since OBD was reset.

According to the OBD spec, the CAT test runs everytime you drive and I wonder why this one is still shown as not ready.

I would really appreciate if someone clearly explains how this test is run.

Here are 2 pictures taken on the same day. March 23, 2007. My registration was due March 26th.

First picture all 5 rediness codes are set. Second picture none are set.

Don't remember what I did. Probably disconnected the battery to put it on my workbench for testing and charging, or playing around with the PST2. I know I ended up replacing the battery July 31, 2007.

All I know I was not ready for testing, but I had paid my registration fees on time.

When I finally had the test on December 7, 2007, the measured levels from the sniffer were well below the max, except for HC which was equal to the max.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=102491

Have you checked for fault codes?

If it still is not in a "Ready" state then something is still wrong.

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Yup.

There is fault code stored at all. I used to get CEL w/1123 but after replacing the bellow tube and cleaning MAF sensor, I am not getting CEL anymore.

Also, no more P1123/1125 either. I am just waiting for CAT test to run.....

Thanks Loren. You referred me back to this thread. :(

Did I miss something?

It has been over 3 weesk and I havev cold started the car more than 30 times.

The car has been driven over 200 miles since reset.

So I take it there is no known formular for the test.

Does anyone know what routine/procedure must run to pass CAT?

The OBD II reader shows all tests have run (Ready) but CAT and it's been over 200 miles since OBD was reset.

According to the OBD spec, the CAT test runs everytime you drive and I wonder why this one is still shown as not ready.

I would really appreciate if someone clearly explains how this test is run.

Here are 2 pictures taken on the same day. March 23, 2007. My registration was due March 26th.

First picture all 5 rediness codes are set. Second picture none are set.

Don't remember what I did. Probably disconnected the battery to put it on my workbench for testing and charging, or playing around with the PST2. I know I ended up replacing the battery July 31, 2007.

All I know I was not ready for testing, but I had paid my registration fees on time.

When I finally had the test on December 7, 2007, the measured levels from the sniffer were well below the max, except for HC which was equal to the max.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=102491

Have you checked for fault codes?

If it still is not in a "Ready" state then something is still wrong.

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  • Admin
Yup.

There is fault code stored at all. I used to get CEL w/1123 but after replacing the bellow tube and cleaning MAF sensor, I am not getting CEL anymore.

Also, no more P1123/1125 either. I am just waiting for CAT test to run.....

Thanks Loren. You referred me back to this thread. :(

Did I miss something?

It has been over 3 weesk and I havev cold started the car more than 30 times.

The car has been driven over 200 miles since reset.

So I take it there is no known formular for the test.

Does anyone know what routine/procedure must run to pass CAT?

The OBD II reader shows all tests have run (Ready) but CAT and it's been over 200 miles since OBD was reset.

According to the OBD spec, the CAT test runs everytime you drive and I wonder why this one is still shown as not ready.

I would really appreciate if someone clearly explains how this test is run.

Here are 2 pictures taken on the same day. March 23, 2007. My registration was due March 26th.

First picture all 5 rediness codes are set. Second picture none are set.

Don't remember what I did. Probably disconnected the battery to put it on my workbench for testing and charging, or playing around with the PST2. I know I ended up replacing the battery July 31, 2007.

All I know I was not ready for testing, but I had paid my registration fees on time.

When I finally had the test on December 7, 2007, the measured levels from the sniffer were well below the max, except for HC which was equal to the max.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st&p=102491

Have you checked for fault codes?

If it still is not in a "Ready" state then something is still wrong.

Well, the "Ready" process starts over if the battery is disconnected. So make sure you don't do that.

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Try starting the engine from cold, warming up by going moderate speeds (30-35 mph or so) and keeping it under 3000 rpm. When the engine is warm, speed up to about 45-50 mph, keep it under 60 and under 3000 rpm, and drive for about 15 or 20 minutes with minimal stops. If it still doesn't work, then there is something wrong, but not bad enough to trigger a CEL. Not sure about where you are, but in CA, you can still pass with one of readiness lights not on assuming you pass the sniff test, etc.

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Just a quick note about a newcoming 'improvement' in our California smog checks.

It is already the case that the dyno measures vehicle weight, because what was happening was cheaters would bring in their Ford truck for a test but put some little Toyota on the dyno so it would read well to the computer. So they required weight measure and only subsituting the same type vehicle could you cheat. Well...people still did.

So now the new addition is that all smog shops will be equipped with real-time cameras that link to the computer and to The State. These cameras will record the entire transaction, check license plate, watch dyno etc., and be yet another step to stop cheaters. Naturally our smog test fees will again increase to cover this new cost.

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Just a quick note about a newcoming 'improvement' in our California smog checks.

It is already the case that the dyno measures vehicle weight, because what was happening was cheaters would bring in their Ford truck for a test but put some little Toyota on the dyno so it would read well to the computer. So they required weight measure and only subsituting the same type vehicle could you cheat. Well...people still did.

So now the new addition is that all smog shops will be equipped with real-time cameras that link to the computer and to The State. These cameras will record the entire transaction, check license plate, watch dyno etc., and be yet another step to stop cheaters. Naturally our smog test fees will again increase to cover this new cost.

America, Land of the Free :huh: I thought we (in Britain) were subjected to a lot of needless nanny-state government interference but this thread reads like a horror story. Does the condition described (disconnection of battery affects running and code output until the car has had time to relearn and settle down) affect RoW models too? Reason I ask is that my '00 2.7 had a new battery last week and I didn't realise there was a reconnection procedure until after I'd taken it for its annual MoT test, it passed the emissions test but the tester had to 'help' it to pass and told me I should get a diagnostic sorted before it did some valve damage. I read up on and carried out the correct battery reconection procedure and this seems to have made a big improvement on the driveability but still not 100% on what is was before the battery change, will my car 'get better' with usage? I've only done a few miles since the reconnect.

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I just went ahead and took the emissino test. It passed.

CAT = Not ready.

According to WA law, as long as you no more than 2 "NOT READY" and no CEL, you can pass.

As for why CAT is not ready, who knows? I will keep driving and see what happens.

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Since I started this thread, I can gladly report my friend's car finally reached the "ready" point and he passed emissions/was able to renew his plate. I learned a valuable lession here on battery disconnection. In fact, we were at the track this weekend and I left the liftgate on my Grand Cherokee open long enough to kill the battery...engine ECU was not happy with low volts and took quite some time to get the thing to even idle!

Beware of Low Voltage...

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  • 1 year later...
  • Moderators

I will bring this back to life just because I just had smog inspection #6 done today.

There is a rumor that the California Air Resources Board will have a video camera at the inspection stations, but not yet.

I was good this year. I only waited 3 months after I timely paid the registration fees, to have the smog inspection done.

The Box gained no weight. It was 3,125 pounds at the test facility I went to on December 7, 2007, and the same weight at a different facility that I went to today.

I had the same ABS front wheel sensor faults that I had at the last inspection. This is because the rear wheels are spinning on the dyno and the front wheels are not moving.

I am getting a bit tired of Arnold and CARB and the DMV. In the olden days when smog inspections first started you paid money for a paper smog certificate given to you by the inspector that you mailed to the DMV with your renewal notice and check. Years later the results of the inspection were electronically transmitted to Sacramento and you no longer received a paper certificate to mail to the DMV

But guess what? You are now charged $8.25 for the paper certificate that you no longer receive, and $2 to electronically send the results of the inspection.

There are about 25 million cars registered in California. You do the math.

post-4-1245282714_thumb.jpg

post-4-1245282846_thumb.jpg

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...

I had the same ABS front wheel sensor faults that I had at the last inspection. This is because the rear wheels are spinning on the dyno and the front wheels are not moving.

...

But guess what? You are now charged $8.25 for the paper certificate that you no longer receive, and $2 to electronically send the results of the inspection.

He IS alive!

Is this why the light on the dash is always on when the smog check is done, but goes out right away after I start driving? I think the last 2 times I got my car smogged, I had a check engine light for the first minute or so, but it went out within a minute of driving out of the smog shop. The guy said the few Porsches they do all have the check engine light on

I always thought the $8.25 was just a certificate fee for electronically transmitting the pass/fail to Sacramento. I've never paid the $2 charge, and I had to smog 2 cars in the past few months. Maybe the place you take your car is too high class and thinks they can rip everyone off for the extra. Or the cheap place I go for a smog loses enough on every car they don't want to take more time to ring up the $2.

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  • 7 years later...

I'm suffering from Secondary Air Readiness not complete on my 07 Cayman base model with 100k miles.

I replaced my faulty DMTL pump 3 weeks ago and have since driven the car around 200 miles, with about 30 cold starts. There are no codes at all in Durametric, and I have done several long drives with the speed under 3000rpm. I also scanned the car with a Snap-on Modis and it reports the same. No fault codes but SAI not ready.

 

The only symptom I have is that the fuel tank is difficult to fill without the pump clicking off all the time.

 

I need to pass smog so I can re-register it, but I also need to replace a failing starter motor, for which I need to disconnect the battery, which will reset the DME, so I won't pass smog...

 

Any ideas on how to get this thing to pass Secondary Readiness.

 

58d2ec2dbaaeb_SAIfail.JPG.72a81b1ef8b840e87269b804d54ec16c.JPG

 

58d2ec3ba6ee9_Nocodes.JPG.dde622c503c1142f362fddb9bc439c38.JPG

Edited by SpawnyWhippet
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  • Moderators

The SAI system is notorious for this "fail" problem.  As you have a Porsche diagnostic tool, the first thing to try is activation of the SAI pump using the diagnostic tool. If it does run, you need to start checking all of the valves in the system as one may be stuck or inoperative.  This system is always a bit of an "Easter Egg hunt" when they act up.  I would also think that your refueling issue may not be related to the SAI fail. but caused by a issue in the EVAP tank venting system, which again is a common problem area.

 

Both of these areas have been written up previously, so I would start with a cup of coffee and a search for some info.

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