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Code P1341, Factory fault code 174


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Hi, i am after some help.

I have a 2001 boxster 3.2s with a iregular tickover and no dash warnining lamp lit.

car drives ok, just lumpy tickover.

With a durmetric fitted is shows the fault to be code P1341, Factory fault code 174 - camshaft ajustment, bank 1, Signal implausible, below limit or above limit.

My under-standing is bank one is the drivers side in the uk.

readings shown with engine off, via the durametric are :

crankshaft position 1 deviation 19.26 deg

crankshaft position 2 deviation 0 deg

crankshaft angle for camshaft bank 1 0.00 deg

crankshaft angle for camshaft bank 2 0.00 deg

readings shown with at tickover, via the durametric are :

crankshaft position 1 deviation 18.93 deg

crankshaft position 2 deviation 0 deg

crankshaft angle for camshaft bank 1 0.52 deg

crankshaft angle for camshaft bank 2 0.00 deg

when driving the car the values shown hardly move, bank 1 varies by prehaps .5 deg and bank 2 never showing anything other than 0 deg.

After recomendations for any testing of sensors posible ? or independent Porshe agent near Dartford, Kent, UK !

I have had the car for 1.5 years with just standard service done, alhough plugs and coilpacks just replaced for peace of mind.

regards

Brett

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Most probably the cam position sensor on bank 1 is the problem. Should not be a major issue for a shop to verify and/or replace the sensor.

The Durametric should be able to tigger the VarioCam unit on that bank, if you hear it "click", but the values do not change, the sensor needs to come out.

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Most probably the cam position sensor on bank 1 is the problem. Should not be a major issue for a shop to verify and/or replace the sensor.

The Durametric should be able to tigger the VarioCam unit on that bank, if you hear it "click", but the values do not change, the sensor needs to come out.

So far I have tried trigering when the engine was running. There was a noticable engine note change when bank 2 trigered but nothing on bank 1.

I will try with the engine not running, also i understand its posible to test the solinoid and sensor ? any idear of ohm readings ?

I did expect to see the readings changing on bank 2 ? as the engine speed increased ?

Also where is the cam position sensor located ? have looked a couple of times and have yet to see it ?

when cold during warming up no problems at all !

regards

Brett

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Brett, my complements on posting so much information with your question. It really helps those who do the answering on the forums to not have to dig it out over a series of question/answers. The only other question I'd ask is did the lumpiness/fault occur before you changed the plugs/coils? Since the CEL can also be a short or break in the wiring back to the ECU, it always helps to know if the symptoms can be related to anything you did recently (like bump a connection).

Edited by mikefocke
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Most probably the cam position sensor on bank 1 is the problem. Should not be a major issue for a shop to verify and/or replace the sensor.

The Durametric should be able to tigger the VarioCam unit on that bank, if you hear it "click", but the values do not change, the sensor needs to come out.

So far I have tried trigering when the engine was running. There was a noticable engine note change when bank 2 trigered but nothing on bank 1.

I will try with the engine not running, also i understand its posible to test the solinoid and sensor ? any idear of ohm readings ?

I did expect to see the readings changing on bank 2 ? as the engine speed increased ?

Also where is the cam position sensor located ? have looked a couple of times and have yet to see it ?

when cold during warming up no problems at all !

regards

Brett

Starting to sound more like the VarioCam actuator solenoid rather than the cam position sensor, based upon your input.

The cam position sensors are located on the top end of each cylinder head (opposite ends for banks 1 & 2):

Pic5.jpg

The VarioCam actuator solenoid is a common failure point on these cars, but is easy to swap out once you get to it:

Pic07.jpg

Edited by JFP in PA
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my complements on posting so much information with your question. It really helps those who do the answering on the forums to not have to did it out over a series of question/answers. The only other question I'd ask is did the lumpiness/fault occur before you changed the plugs/coils? Since the CEL can also be a short or break in the wiring back to the ECU, it always helps to know if the symptoms can be related to anything you did recently (like bump a connection).

Thanks !

Unfortunately the engine feels the same now, as to how it was before the plugs and coil-packs were changed.

After feeling the roughness on tick-over I looked underneath and saw a few cracks to the coil-packs so thought would eliminate any problems they may be causing.

thanks JFP in PA for answer and useful photos, I have not yet been under or in engine hatch again yet as work getting in way !

Any known resistances of sensors or test procedures would be useful, also anyone recommend a manual ? or detailed procedure for strip-down ?

Brett

Edited by brettfcars
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I'm sure there are electrical test procedures, but I am currently away from my shop so I do not have access to the OEM manuals at the moment. Normally, if the solenoid does not trigger, it is not worth testing it, we pull and replace them. They are much like a light bulb, they work or they do not, providing there are no wiring issues.

Edited by JFP in PA
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Hi,

I know i have a problem with bank 1, and i hope to test the solenoid later. As aparently this can be confirmed working by simlply testing with a 12v feed. Also a 12v suppy should be see to activate the solenoid. So this will eliminate the wiring.

But are the readings as should be expected for bank 2 ?

I was expecting to see some change rather than just feeling the tickover alter ? no deviation or angle change is seen ?

Brett

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Thanks JFP I was thinking I had perhaps a faulty cam sensor on bank 2, I aim to test out the solenoid tomorrow and go from there.

Is any damage likly to be done if car still used ? also i have seen a wiring diagram implying a relay in circuit after DME but before solenoid ? any idear where this is ?

regards

brett

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I have tested the solenoid and it reads 12.6 ohms, which I believe is correct.

when 12v is applied to the solenoid a spark can be seen and a feint click heard from within the cam cover.

with the engine running and bank 2 operated by the duremetric the engine rpm gets rougher but when this is done too bank 1, no change. Also when applying 12v direct to the solenoid when the engine is running there is no change.

I believe this is final proof that the varocam actuator is faulty.

I am now collecting a few parts and tools together and plan to do the job myself to save on labour costs. I have done similar jobs on other cars but have never worked on a Porsche boxster engine.

regards

Brett

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I have done similar jobs on other cars but have never worked on a Porsche boxster engine.

That being the case, be sure to read up on the correct procedures for doing this; in many ways, Porsches are unlike other engines, and you don't want to create additional problems.

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I have done similar jobs on other cars but have never worked on a Porsche boxster engine.

That being the case, be sure to read up on the correct procedures for doing this; in many ways, Porsches are unlike other engines, and you don't want to create additional problems.

Thanks for advice, I was worried at first but both these links seam to show the procedure, I have purchased the book the first link goes to and looking in to purchasing or borrowing the tools.

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=OBtHJPchYngC&pg=PA76&lpg=PA76&dq=Camshaft+Holding+Tools+9624&source=bl&ots=ExzXw9tG6m&sig=YQZTOQGyk9N2_Z_UcT48AwuIs_4&hl=en&sa=X&ei=LaffT9O9Jciq8QPBvfSaCg&sqi=2&ved=0CJgBEOgBMAM#v=onepage&q=Camshaft%20Holding%20Tools%209624&f=true

and

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/25471-vario-cam-solenoid-swap-in-car/

thanks

Brett

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