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Trunk Light Won't Turn Off...


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Reference: 2003 996 C4S - This is my first post, I tried to put up this message on the DIY area and I think it failed?

Anyway, my problem is the trunk light won't turn off when you close the trunk lid. To verify this I put my i-Phone in video and closed the lid on it, the light was still on. The P.O. dealt with this by disconnecting the trunk light wiring. The light works, but won't shut off, anyone know where the trunk light switch is? On my "84" it's on the right hand hood hinge. I've looked every where, but can't find it.

I've thought about installing a rocker switch next to the light so if you have the hood open for extended periods of time you could just switch off the light manually.

Thanks for any help...

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Thanks for the info.. Looks like a pretty simple fix. I'm guessing the latch assembly is $100 plus part? I'm not so sure that a lighted rocker switch might not be a bad idea It's a lot cheaper that a new hood latch assembly (or just the micro switch) and you will get more utility out of it.

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The microswitch can be changed without the latch - so unless the latch is damaged just replace the switch. 996-613-206-00 Microswitch -- US MSRP $79.15

BTW the latch is 996-511-053-02 Lower latch -- US MSRP $158.23

If it turn out to be just the switch/bulb holder itself - then 997-632-201-00 (light (w/o bulb) -- US MSRP $5.90

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The microswitch can be changed without the latch - so unless the latch is damaged just replace the switch. 996-613-206-00 Microswitch -- US MSRP $79.15

BTW the latch is 996-511-053-02 Lower latch -- US MSRP $158.23

If it turn out to be just the switch/bulb holder itself - then 997-632-201-00 (light (w/o bulb) -- US MSRP $5.90

Loren, are you saying that the bulb holder is also a switch? Or do you mean it's a bulb holder only. I originally thought the trunk light would be a rocker type lens that turned on and off the light, much like my "84" interior lights.

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I still need to replace the micro switch at the trunk latch mechanism... Glenn at Pelican said he would order one for me. However I still wanted to control the trunk light, so I installed this lighted switch. Interesting enough the trunk light will turn off when the interior lights go off after closing the door. It's on the same circuit as the interior lights. FYI, C3 15A fuse protects the interior lights, the sun roof motor, and the trunk light. There's a couple of other accessories that I can't think of this minute that works off the same fuse.

post-85466-0-11634400-1352868956_thumb.j

post-85466-0-66308600-1352868979_thumb.j

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 years later...

My luggage compartment light is also stuck on, with the switch disconnected.  I have always been able to turn off the light by disconnecting the latch switch.  Now the light stays on and was draining the battery.  One contact on the switch and one contact on the light are always hot.  I don't know if it should be that way.  The other contact of the switch appears to go to a ground point which can't be true if the other is hot.  The second contact of the light goes to the alarm system control unit.  Any help?

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I wasn't looking for a way do bypass the problem.  I already took the light out but that doesn't solve the question of why it's staying on in the first place given that it is controlled by the switch that I disconnected.  Thanks for the reply though.

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Both the front hood switch and the fuel door solenoid are rad by the alarm control box.

If you have Durametric I think you can test the functions.

 

Does your car chirp once or twice when you lock the car?

It not not chirp at all. One chirp says one (or more zones) are open - and two chirps says there is an alarm fault.

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Thanks Loren.  The alarm function appears to be working properly.  No chirp with everything shut and also no chirp if I disconnect the front hood switch to simulate the lid being shut.  Since I disconnected the luggage compartment light I still seem to have  gremlin.  The battery voltage is just under 12.5 in the morning, less than 1 ma. draw after everything shuts down but the charge rate never gets above 13.5 the next time the car is run.  It will hold 13.25 with all the lights on but I'm wondering if the charge rate isn't high enough to really top off the battery.  The alternator is was rebuilt at a local shop about 3 years ago to cure a 300 ma draw when off.  When I first get home and check the voltage it steadily drops to about 12.25 while the 2 amp draw, decreasing to a little over 1 amp over a couple of hours,  is shown after the doors have been opened.  When the draw goes away after a couple of hours the voltage will climb back to the 12.5.

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(see attached picture) I had the same problem and it was the microswitch that was broken. The trigger is made of plastic and over time it will break. This may be more reason not to slam a Porsche hood. hahaha Anyway, on the switch on the right you can see the plastic part that is broken. With the main piece broken, the circuit was complete; therefore, the light stayed on. Of course, the one of the left is the replacement and when the hood is closed, the plastic trigger rotates clockwise thereby not allowing the electrical signal to ground out.

 

Regarding the frunk light, I unplug mine because of the pains associated with the 996 and dead batteries. It's a tiny little worthless light. Personally, I carry a very powerful LED flashlight, but that's just me. Too many of my forum friends have been locked out of their cars because of a dead battery and the culprits are usually something like a frunk or rear deck lid light. IMHO. 

microswitch.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had a problem years ago with the light in the engine trunk not going off.  The issue turned out to be a bad micro-switch at the glove box.  In fact, using the same iPhone video technique mention previously, the frunk light was also on.  The glove box micro-switch had been damaged from the folks doing a stereo upgrade for me.  Another clue was that the alarm (single horn chirp) would sound when I locked car with key.

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Thanks for the suggestion, Jim.  I don't have any chirp and no mods or upgrades but considering that the light seems to be ultimately controlled by the security system I can see how anything else connected to that box could have an effect.  I've had 2 of these 996's and was always able to disable the frunk light by disconnecting the latch switch so that I could have the hood open but recently the light stayed on.  

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I had a problem years ago with the light in the engine trunk not going off.  The issue turned out to be a bad micro-switch at the glove box.  In fact, using the same iPhone video technique mention previously, the frunk light was also on.  The glove box micro-switch had been damaged from the folks doing a stereo upgrade for me.  Another clue was that the alarm (single horn chirp) would sound when I locked car with key.  

 

I forgot to mention that the center arm rest also is tied into the security system.   

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