Jump to content
×
×

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Domiac

Installing RMS without Porsche Special Tool 9609 + 9606/1

Recommended Posts

He had them custom made by a machine shop.  I bought one to test against the factory tool (works fine), if your interested in it, let me know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Thanks John. I'll see if I could get it from here first before bothering you.

http://www.cheetahonline.com/products-page/custom-work/rsmtool/

He had them custom made by a machine shop.  I bought one to test against the factory tool (works fine), if your interested in it, let me know.

 

 

I think you will find that Mr. Cheetah dropped off the planet some time ago.  We have had several posters try to contact him without success.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone have the Nylon tool and willing to sell it to me? I need it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for this useful guide.

I made my own tool from a 3" pvc (not ABS) sewer pipe cap.Some mention 4" ,so take your old RMS as a sample when rummaging at Home Depot.

I drilled 4 holes in the cap ,not 2 because I tried a 2 hole system and screwed up ! Why? Impatience. I cleaned the metal surfaces with alcohol but must have failed to wipe off carefully(?) .The slippery surface allowed the new RMS to cant  over - ruined ! To remove, I used a pair of woodworkers gimlets by hand *No screw+slide hammer -too brutal !

I  marked the pvc cap at 13mm and cut out "Witness Windows".

As a precaution glued  in a piece of Sch.80(not 40) pvc pipe at the correct depth.This acts as a stop to prevent over-driving the seal. The Sch 80 has a small cut out for the roll pin. I doubt any of this was necessary !

The contraption was too deep to use the old flywheel bolts to pull the cap on to the RMS. No problem ,I have a huge assortment of metric bolts. But not 4 x M10 x 1.0 , 80 mm full thread bolts . Quick order to Bolt Depot. They only sent 2 ! Wait for some more bolts. It may have been just as fast on the left coast to order threaded rod from China and cut to length. 70 mm is not quie long enough unless you start the rms by tapping.That is rather stupid because it is easy to get it canted and that is the whole point of the tool! To complete the task with 70mm shoulder bolts, you'll need 4 spacers(big nuts) for the final few millimeters because the 70mm shoulder bolts will bottom out before you reach 13mm.

So ,if you can , borrow the correct tool or follow the earlier Instructions - not mine.

My system worked but is needlessly complicated.

 

 

Edited by Schnell Gelb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll add myself to list of folks who need one of these.  I'm good with buying one or renting.  

 

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

Chris

New owner of '01 986S with blown RMS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Based on the dimensions by Domiac and Coloradocurt (thank you!) I came up with a version of the tool that uses the DMF bolts to push it and the RMS into its position by turning the bolts little by little in a cross-wise pattern. Reason being that I managed to destroy a brand new seal by tapping it in using a tool as described above as it canted over.

 

Thickness of the tool is such that it bottoms out against the crank flange before the DMS bolts bottom out in their thread holes.

 

I'll post up my dimensions as soon as I have verified them to work as intended.

 

post-11301-0-14012500-1539289487_thumb.jpg

post-11301-0-76840500-1539289513_thumb.jpg

Edited by hardtailer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By HomePro
      I plan to replace the RMS and IMSB on my 2003, Carrera, Coupe, 3.6, Tiptronic.  I have read about the MB version of the Tiptronic requiring the removal of the trans/engine together while the ZF can be removed separately.  Is this true and how can I determine which one that I have?  I crawled underneath and could not see an I.D. tag.  So far I have found conflicting information regarding the trans. in this car.
    • By Schnell Gelb
      Anyone else tried this?
      "The GT3 Motorsport seal (not a Porsche standard part) is the same bore size as the 996/997 seal but has two protective flanges at the rear. If fitted in reverse the inner flange forces itself to flip backwards and touch the outer flange which is already forced onto the crank with a spring. This prevents any oil from possibly leaking even if the bore is out of tolerance."
       

       
    • By herogenous
      Hi Everyone,
       
      My name is Andy, based in Swansea, South Wales, UK. Having just bought my first Porsche (an '02 C4S) with 70K on the clock - I have been googling my little socks off looking at all things 996! I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this car - never owned anything that goes round corners like it... the downside is, it keeps me lying awake worrying about it - but I think that's the usual new car paranoia, which will settle down!
       
      Having found loads and loads of excellent posts written on this forum I decided to sign up, say hi and hopefully pick a few brains!
       
      Currently, I am making myself extremely paranoid about the whole IMS issue! The reason for this is there is a little bit of oil at the base of the engine (eg the normal IMS / RMS leaky bit - according to images on the web). The leak is VERY, VERY slow (more just damp) and is not dripping or anything (have wiped, driven and nothing much more coming back down).
       
      The question I have is this. There seems to be some discrepancy in information regarding leaks in this area. Some people seem to be suggesting that leaks in this area are NOT related to internal (eg potentially catastrophic) IMS issues as the "problem" bearing is actually sealed inside the engine behind the outer seal and therefore leaks from the outer seal are not relevant, they are just that, leaks from the outer seal and cause no damage, just irritation - and possibly the owner paying a bit more attention to oil levels!
       
      Others seem to suggest that vibration caused by wear to the internal bearing cause the outer seal to leak, and therefore one SHOULD be worried.
       
      Can anyone provide any clarification on this, should I panic / stop driving / do an oil change and check for metal / jump out the window / drive it like I stole it? In short, I don't want to waste a load of money if not necessary - are there any rules of thumb?
       
      Incidentally, I'm not worried if it's just a very slow oil-leak from a seal I can deal with that in due course!
       
      I'm sure this topic has been gone-over ad nauseum, so apologies, but can't seem to find definitive answers! (maybe because they don't exist!)
       
      Best regards, all - and thanks!
      Andy
    • By Domiac
      Hello there, my car is an early 2004 996 C4 Cab, 3.6L, 85k miles.

      Good stuff on my DropBox folder: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/p62gwxshg2zath4/0wYS9yrgfv

      Engine has not been started for 4 months. Actually it has been on a huge container for 2+ months and just few weeks ago I got the time to start working with my car again.

      Just before taking these pictures, note that I did wash my engine and transmission while they were still connected to each other, that might explain the glossy oil spots near my IMS (or not).

      Four months ago, underneath the car it looked that I get a tiny amount of oil after I drive around 500 miles, sometimes even a drop of oil to my garage floor if I drive a lot more. The drop comes right to the spot which usually indicates RMS/IMS leak. Then again, my AOS has been spitting lots of oil out from the connectors and the drop might originate from there too, impossible to say as front left side of the engine near AOS was so full of oil and gunk.

      I've changed my oil now twice, both the oil and filter ripped open has looked really really clean but this is based solely on human eye :-)

      I'd like to get a few second opinions to my questions, hopefully this thread is usefull to others too.

      1) How does my RMS / IMS look in general?
      I'd say the leak is reasonably small, most gunk originates from clutch, would you feel the same?

      2) Would you change my RMS or just leave it be?
      It has already been changed once at some point.

      3) What exactly seems to be leaking here?
      To me it seems to be the IMS, but strangely enough the bottom part right below the IMS cover was completely clean (just zoom the images and remember that I washed my tranny and engine just before separating them).

      4) Which bolts would you change while doing the IMS?
      Looking at the pictures, many change bolt numbers 4, 5, 6 and 7, how about you?


      5) Curiosity question, what parts are not original?
      My RMS must be new as the part number is 997.101.212.00. IMS looks old, part number K.99602401 (?). Also would you also feel that many of these bolts have been changed as they look past year 2004 bolts, right?



      PS. I have a new RMS, LN bearing + tools waiting for the installation..


      Big Kudos to everyone who got this far, hope you'll inspect my DropBox picture folder too!

    • By shyster77
      Boxster-mates,
      I did end up with a decent size oil leak, this morning.
      At the shop, when inspected underneath, it does seem to come from near where the transmission connects the motor.
      Per my mechanic, there were no metal pieces in the filter when the oil was changed at 130K miles - and it may be unlikely that the IMS may be going bad by the current mileage of 134.5K.
      While I don't experience slippage when shifting, does it make sense to bite the bullet and get the clutch, upgraded IMS, RMS and all of the required components replaced at this point.
      My mechanic recommended that I drive it for another 3k miles and see how the oil spill continues before scheduling for the replacements along with the oil change. Would I be risking the motor in any way by doing so?
      Also how much should the total cost come to, if done at an Indy shop?

      Thanks for your thoughts,
      V
×

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.