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It's hard to see, but the scale is on the bottom left, 10.0V per major division - CH1 / 5.2V is just the trigger voltage for the scope (the small arrow). I still don't like digital oscilloscopes…

 

Interesting link - I wondered about this about the N75 as well, thanks.

 

6 hours ago, lewisweller said:

 

Or spend 100 bucks on a new purge valve to find out if you wasted 100 bucks. 

 

 

Hah! True enough. So I did clean it and made sure everything was tight and lines were in their proper place with no stress on them, and the errors have gone away for several hours of driving now. Even the Readiness is back to normal. There is still a much fainter (but still present) smell of oil every now and then, so I'm thinking I just improved things enough not to trigger a code, but there is still some leak problem. So I might go ahead and get the valve and see if that helps things. The only other candidates I have left is the AOS diaphragm not functioning correctly, but I have already broke two of the tabs on the cover and I've tried but can't get it off without stressing the remaining tabs so much I am sure they are going to break. A heat gun would help, but I don't want to melt the membrane and then have to wait for another one from Russia.

 

But if you miss working endlessly on your Cayenne, I also have to take the passenger door apart again because the replacement window cables ate themselves and now it needs to be fixed again. And I just realized that my drivers door open/closed micro switch sensor needs fixing. I never cared that the light didn't come on when I opened the door, but now I am realizing that the key weirdness's I've always had could be due to it thinking the driver's door hasn't been opened. Plus there is the fuel pump that doesn't turn on when I open it and slow starting…its all so connected.

 

Speaking of which did your VAGCOM ever access the door electrics controller? I can't make a CAN connection to it for some reason. Was that a controller you had access to?

 

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6 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

It's hard to see, but the scale is on the bottom left, 10.0V per major division - CH1 / 5.2V is just the trigger voltage for the scope (the small arrow). I still don't like digital oscilloscopes…

 

Interesting link - I wondered about this about the N75 as well, thanks.

 

 

Hah! True enough. So I did clean it and made sure everything was tight and lines were in their proper place with no stress on them, and the errors have gone away for several hours of driving now. Even the Readiness is back to normal. There is still a much fainter (but still present) smell of oil every now and then, so I'm thinking I just improved things enough not to trigger a code, but there is still some leak problem. So I might go ahead and get the valve and see if that helps things. The only other candidates I have left is the AOS diaphragm not functioning correctly, but I have already broke two of the tabs on the cover and I've tried but can't get it off without stressing the remaining tabs so much I am sure they are going to break. A heat gun would help, but I don't want to melt the membrane and then have to wait for another one from Russia.

 

But if you miss working endlessly on your Cayenne, I also have to take the passenger door apart again because the replacement window cables ate themselves and now it needs to be fixed again. And I just realized that my drivers door open/closed micro switch sensor needs fixing. I never cared that the light didn't come on when I opened the door, but now I am realizing that the key weirdness's I've always had could be due to it thinking the driver's door hasn't been opened. Plus there is the fuel pump that doesn't turn on when I open it and slow starting…its all so connected.

 

Speaking of which did your VAGCOM ever access the door electrics controller? I can't make a CAN connection to it for some reason. Was that a controller you had access to?

 

Can't remember ever going into the door Electrica module. 

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Well this is great. After no errors or smells for 2 days I was feeling more positive about this – until it started stinking constantly today and the CEL was for a new version of the code, P0455 - 001 - Large Leak Detected. But what I’m wondering now is maybe the two are unrelated functionally, so like if a bump causes the oil smell, it also jars something else that causes the EVAP problems. And now two problems are stuck open.

 

So I just picked up my #4 gaskets ($50 in Canada for basically 2 o-rings btw) and will seal off the valve cover leak tonight. Then if I still get the smell and error, it’s something else up front so replace the N80 valve; if no smell but error code then it must be at the back in the EVAP canister (as the gas cap is fine).

 

It would be great if the gasket oil leak is also causing the EVAP leak, but I probably won’t be that lucky. Would be nice though; we can’t use the car until this is fixed.

 

Edit: Installed the new seals, valve covers are clean now but on a trip out for gas there was one more blast of oil smell when stopping at a light. No error codes...will have to run it for a few days and see what happens. Maybe residual leak. But I did find an interesting thread where someone had similar problems with the codes and after replacing the usual items for this it turned out to be the mechanical air pump. Didn't even know this had a mechanical air pump. And its right at the back passenger side where there is that pipe that has a bit of oil on it always. I took the electric pump off and still couldn't see it even with a mirror, don't know how you would work on it, but even Pelican says it can leak oil externally and into the air supply.

Edited by Zakowsky

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An update - inspecting the EVAP stuff in the rear wheel showed no sign of problems, couldn't find any leaks or broken wires, so I removed the N80 plus the hose from the engine. It was a PITA as there a lot of plastic there I didn't want to break. Anyway once removed it I tested it again and found that sure enough, when I hit it on one side it would open, then when you hit it on the other it would seal closed. Explains why it would throw codes after going over bumps. Tried to clean it out but no luck, and I can't crack the casing open without destroying it.

 

Has anyone tried using a VW or Audi N80 instead? The Bosch part number of the Cayenne valve is 0280142398, which only matches up to the Porsche version. Touareg's use one that looks identical but the Bosch number has a different last 3 digits. Reason being is you can get the Touareg one for like $20 online, and here in Canada the Porsche N80 is $148.

 

Either way this should fix the problem and I can finally get this back on the road.

 

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I wouldn’t play around with this part. Turbo non Turbo. Looks similar but ... make this step and buy the right part and have freedom

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You're right Thomas - but I just went and bought the new part, and when I got home and looked at it, it says Bosch on it but it is Made in China! Plus it has the white paint on it like a remanufactured part. If Porsche themselves are selling non-OEM parts what are you supposed to do any more. I can still return it, and maybe order it from Germany or something?

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I wouldn’t be scared about the China story. I am just now using a IPhone to write you which is mainly from.... 

and it’s not falling apart.

 

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1 hour ago, Zakowsky said:

You're right Thomas - but I just went and bought the new part, and when I got home and looked at it, it says Bosch on it but it is Made in China! Plus it has the white paint on it like a remanufactured part. If Porsche themselves are selling non-OEM parts what are you supposed to do any more. I can still return it, and maybe order it from Germany or something?

Mechanical air pump? where's that at mike?

 

Purge valve faulty hey! Wink.

I think the 20 dollar one would work just fine. Everything is made in China, the world better wake up, they already took over this mother f**ker. Lol 

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The ones you mention are between 25 and 40 EUR. They look similar but they don’t work well. That’s what I was told from 2 different suppliers. 

C8E01A42-3A5C-4E1F-A0B0-D13589E5127F.jpeg

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It's late here and just returned from a test drive and so a quick update. You were correct Lewis, looks like I should have just replaced the N80 to start with. And thanks for the tip Thomas - those were the kind I was going to get. Anyways I really needed the car tomorrow and was looking at the $150 one sitting in the garage and just said ok Porsche wins this round. Installing it was a lot easier than taking the old one out; fired it up and cleared the codes, drove for 30 minutes and no codes came back and actually didn't smell any oil anymore. No bumps or hard braking, will test that out tomorrow, at least fool myself it is fixed for one night! But the idle is noticeably smoother and it even the "Evaporative Emissions" readiness check was green, something it hasn't been in a long time. Will see how the next few days go but looking OK. And btw I was wrong about the mechanical air pump; on the turbo with the electric ones there is no mechanical one that runs off the back of the camshaft.

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6 hours ago, Zakowsky said:

It's late here and just returned from a test drive and so a quick update. You were correct Lewis, looks like I should have just replaced the N80 to start with. And thanks for the tip Thomas - those were the kind I was going to get. Anyways I really needed the car tomorrow and was looking at the $150 one sitting in the garage and just said ok Porsche wins this round. Installing it was a lot easier than taking the old one out; fired it up and cleared the codes, drove for 30 minutes and no codes came back and actually didn't smell any oil anymore. No bumps or hard braking, will test that out tomorrow, at least fool myself it is fixed for one night! But the idle is noticeably smoother and it even the "Evaporative Emissions" readiness check was green, something it hasn't been in a long time. Will see how the next few days go but looking OK. And btw I was wrong about the mechanical air pump; on the turbo with the electric ones there is no mechanical one that runs off the back of the camshaft.

We have a winner.....hopefully. 

Good luck tomorrow, cross your fingers on the humps .......lol

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Quick note - codes are still gone but it didn't help the blast of oil smell unfortunately. I hope the codes don't come back too. Looks like they were maybe unrelated after all.

 

Still have the Secondary Air Pump not ready warning that has always come and gone. Maybe the oil is something to do with that.

 

Edit: Over the course of the day the smell is getting less and less. Perhaps wherever the oil pooled is slowly getting cleared out. So still hope. And it is definitely running better. 

Edited by Zakowsky

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Just to finish this for people searching for oil smells and such...the new Porsche N80 valve solved the errors and the engine is running smoother than ever. The oil smell blowing out the vents when I went over a bump, or slammed on the brakes, was just as strong right after the fix, but over the past week has faded to almost (but not quite) nothing. So I suppose the oil vapors that blew by the valve when they were not supposed to condensed and collected somewhere, and were splashed loose when bumped. That reservoir of crap just took time to slowly clear out. So engine is quite good now.

 

But don't worry, still things wrong - driver side door open/closed micro switch is not working, which doesn't seem that big a deal but things like the fuel pump not turning on early can lead to misdiagnosis, plus it is really easy to lock your keys in the car because it re-locks the doors thinking you didn't get in! Should be time consuming to get to the door latch. Plus a replaced cable for the passenger window sounds like it broke again so all that has to come apart. Would be nice to be worrying about what kind of wax to use for a change!

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Hi to Canada! Nice to hear that you solved this oil smell problem and the car is running good. Major task !  With this news you push me to overlook my valve and all connections again :-)

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HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EVERYBODY !

Thank you very much for your support and help during all this year. Without you I would be lost.  

 

Thank you! Thomas

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Happy New Year Thomas! It's been -30 Celsius here in Calgary, but the CTT is still eating its way through 4 foot snow drifts and a sheets of ice for highways. I'm hoping nothing serious goes wrong with it, because it is too cold even in my garage to work on it! Cheers.

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This sounds nice. I like snow so much. Here is nothing. No winter and Xmas feeling. 

Drive careful

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