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After 18yrs my convertible top has finally encountered its first issue. After using this forum (thank you!!) to figure out how to access all of the components (top was stuck in closed position), I found the root of my issue, a bad cable. However, as I was very carefully removing the cable from the transmission, the "clip" which is molded into the plastic cover cracked and is no longer functional (see image). Not really surprising on an 18yr old piece of plastic. The transmission works perfectly and I do not want to replace it, so I am looking for advice on any other ways that I can keep the cable properly engaged to the transmission. Please let me know if anyone else has encountered this and if there are any viable solutions. Thank you!
By Dennis Bergman
does anyone have a wiring diagram for the convertible top? 987.2 boxster. ive narrowed the issue down to (pretty sure) being between the relays tray and actual switch in the center console. ive gone as far as cut the green wire that goes to the top motor under clam shell and put 12v to it, it started to work. ive checked the relays and swapped them aswell and still nothing. ive tested the switch in the center and the green and brown wire switch while pulling the switch up from positive to negative like it should. which make me think its somewhere in between the switch and the relay tray. in process of tearing apart middle console, i add power from right before the relays directly to the wire and it works fine just doesnt seem to get the connection when the switch is triggered.
By Andre Kristian
Hi guys, Newbie to the forum here. I have a 2002 996 C2 Cab new to me and been enjoying it since I got it 2 years ago. Mostly trouble free until two weeks ago when the cab top started to acting up and then quit all together. I had to do the emergency manual procedure, after checking all the obvious stuff (i.e. fuses, relays, micro-switches all tested and works). I started taking the mechanism apart, checked, cleaned and lubed everything, put it back together, run the calibration (Durametric), things start to work again wonderfully (or so I thought). The clam-shell lid started to hesitating and eventually got stuck halfway. I had to do the manual emergency operation again. Durametric gave a timeout error, the problem seems to be the clam-shell lid. Removed the motor and turned the mechanism manually it moves smoothly. Removed the lid motor by connecting it directly to the AC battery it's humming but the gear seems to turn hesitantly. So I took the motor apart and I found out that the plastic gear got chewed on one area (see attached pictures) where the worm gear rotating. I tried to rebuild the gear teeth by using JB Weld (and all kinds of epoxies brands and types), it's always working for a while and then same thing at the same area got chewed again. I guess it's not strong enough to hold the metal turning screw. My question now is, do I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor or do you guys have any recommendation if I can get this gear fix or custom made obviously within reasonable price (scratch that I just check with a CNC machine company it will cost roughly $300-$400). The price of a new motor is around 600 dollars at Sunset Porsche, a used one at eBay maybe around 300 - 400 dollars with the whole mechanism (which I don't need). Any suggestion is appreciate it. -Andre
I have water on the passenger (right) side floor board of my 2001 996 base coupe. Here are the signs and symptoms, and hopefully relevant info: the water seems to drip from the AC vent. The car hasn't been out in the rain or through a car wash since I dried it out thoroughly. Drove it for about an hour yesterday with the AC on, and the passenger side is soaked. When parked, a healthy amount of condensate came out by the left rear wheel (that's the driver's side, opposite the side where the floorboard is wet), bit nowhere else.
Based on the great info on this site, I checked all four drains under the front cowl. All four were unobstructed and dry as a bone, but there a couple of small leaves in two of them so I cleaned them out. My car has the little clear window over the VIN and the slotted drain grommets, so it looks like the TSB has been applied. I also removed the cover panel on inside of the passenger side rear wheel well. I couldn't positively ID a drain. The area was relatively clean - a little dusty, but no discernible mud, etc. Also very dry. I took out both rear speakers and felt around from the inside of the car all the way down to the bottom of the wheel wells. I suppose that tip only works on the cabriolet...it was clean and dry inside both and there was no drain line .
I ran the car with cowl under the hood/bonnet off and the AC on. The AC lines get cold and water condenses on them (both under the bonnet and running along underneath the car on the passenger side), but it doesn't leak or drip excessively. While it was running, I looked underneath, and saw water dripping from the plastic skid panels under the center of the car up forward. It didn't do that yesterday. I can't imagine that pulling out a couple of dry leaves from the drains under the bonnet made a difference...could it have?
I'm pretty sure that the issue is condensation from the AC system, since it's getting wet from no other source (and it's clear water, not coolant). It would help me to know: where is AC condensation water SUPPOSED to come out under the car when everything's working properly - front, rear, both? Is there a drain hose from the AC condenser that I can access somewhere up front other than as mentioned? I apologize if this is covered clearly somewhere else. I'm just kinda flummoxed...what am I missing?
Thanks very much for any guidance (even a link to some obvious other posting I should have found already)!