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New Battery Cable, Windows and Top not Working

AviSalem
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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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Hi All,

 

So I changed one of my battery cables that had completely snapped off from where it connects to the power distributor. After putting a new cable on, car starts up fine, door lights and interior lights work, radio, door lock, air conditioner all work. The windows will drop down and go back up when I open and close the doors, but will not operate from my switches. The top will not do anything either now. I tried turning and holding the key in the door in the unlock position to see if the windows would drop like that, no such luck. Any ideas? I am thinking about completely disconnecting the battery and connect the two cables together to discharge the car, and reconnect after 15 minutes and see if it "Resets". Any other advice would be helpful, I checked all the fuses before I changed out the cable, thinking it was a fuse problem, they were all good.

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AviSalem
AviSalem

Anyone please??

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CarreraLicious Member

CarreraLicious

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Sounds like the power connection to the center console isn't there (eg. window and parking brake switches). When you pull up the parking brake, does the red light indicate that parking brake is up (in the instrument cluster)? If that parking brake isn't seen as activated, your top will not operate. I know you said you checked the fuses, but I would assume the fuse for the parking brake and window switches would be the same, and start there.

Edited by Boxtaboy
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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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1 hour ago, Boxtaboy said:

Sounds like the power connection to the center console isn't there (eg. window and parking brake switches). When you pull up the parking brake, does the red light indicate that parking brake is up (in the instrument cluster)? If that parking brake isn't seen as activated, your top will not operate. I know you said you checked the fuses, but I would assume the fuse for the parking brake and window switches would be the same, and start there.

Thanks for the feedback, actually the parking brake light does come on the dash. Is there a way to reset the top?

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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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Can anyone explain to me what I need to do to ohm test the fuse box. From what I gather I will disconnect the battery and essentially see if any charge goes through from the switch to the fuses? Also, if my window drops a little when opening the door, does that rule out the relay?

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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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I'm looking at the switches now and am testing the voltage to see if any power is getting to the switch. I am not seeing 12 volts on either plug, on any of the 5 terminals each plug has. There is power in the fuses box at C3 and D1. Could it be the relay? Keep in mind the window will drop a few centimeters for the doors opening and closing. Also probably worth noting, when the cable broke, I tried putting 12v to C3 and down to pop the trunk. I have a feeling I fried something.

 

Thanks

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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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Hey Guys,

 

I received mt Durametric in the mail and hooked it up. There were some fault codes in the alarm, I have cleared them and everything with the alarm sounds good now, no double beep. My windows still do not work though. I tested the power going to the motor, 12 volts. I tested the resistance going to the switches and it is good. How is it that there is power going to the motor but no power at the switches? I would say it is a bad motor but the windows will drop and close when I use the door handles. Do you think the driver side motor could be a problem? Any help would be appreciated!

 

 

Correction, now the alarm is giving me the double beep again with code 34 for the internal sensor :(

Edited by AviSalem
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Loren Member

Loren

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4 hours ago, AviSalem said:

Hey Loren, could that be connected to my window issue?

 

Short circuit to B+

You need no shorts in the alarm, door locks, and windows for them all to work - and you do have a fault. They all run through the same control unit.

You also need a good battery.

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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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3 hours ago, Loren said:

 

Short circuit to B+

You need no shorts in the alarm, door locks, and windows for them all to work - and you do have a fault. They all run through the same control unit.

You also need a good battery.

Any tips on how to troubleshoot this? I'm not sure where to start.

 

Thanks,

Avi 

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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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2 hours ago, Loren said:

fault 34.png

fault 34-1.png

You are the man, thanks! So I started pulling things apart to see what's going on. So far, I am seeing 12v for the first test, will continue forward now. Just thought you guys would want to see this, I don't think it is normal looking, I'm guessing this is my issue.34odbie.jpgnyfxpl.jpgrh7sly.jpg

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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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On 3/26/2017 at 0:36 PM, Loren said:

The burnt resistor is not normal.

You could try replacing just that - but you may need a new board.

Hey All,

 

I purchased a replacement sensor and installed it. I cleared the 34 fault code, unplugged the durametric, went through a couple of cycles locking and unlocking the door (my fob doesn't work so I always use the key). Tried the windows and top and still nothing!! I checked for any faults again and there's nothing. I'm losing my mind! Also before ordering the sensor I did go through the other steps listed above. What else can I do? I really don't want to take it to a shop.

 

Thanks

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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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I'd also like to point out that the door lock button on the center console will not light up, the light by the front windshield is not blinking, and when I turn the key to lock the door it won't beep unless I turn the key to the lock position twice. It will beep once, but there's no fault code coming up

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AviSalem Member

AviSalem

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2 hours ago, Loren said:

If you are getting a beep then you are getting a fault code from the open zone.

I'm not sure why but there are no fault codes present. The only thing is that it is showing a yellow exclamation mark but is not showing any faults. 

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