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2 posts in this topic
Need some help finding a part number, and for the matter, the name of the part! The picture just shows the passengers side of a piece that surrounds the dashboard (I think its all one part, anyway). It's between the windshield and the dash. Does anyone know what this part is called and what the part number may be? This is for 2001 996 Carrera.
So, in the process of getting ready for the summer at NE, I tried two months ago to open my convertible (C4-99). The convertible stuck at 2/3 and didn't go back. I got the car to my indie, stayed there for two weeks and got it back un-repaired. He told me that he tried everything, did recalibration and still, he couldn't fix it. I gone to the dealership too, paid $540 for diagnosis and they told me that they have to replace latch and/or module and since I'm loosing some oil from the cylinders, both cylinders. They quoted me $5400. I hugged them and left :)
Now, the last 2 weeks:
Durametric comes up with error 16 (unknown error - latest version of the software)
In the beginning, when I tried to calibrate with durametric, it was pulling the top back and then it was timing out but without any warning light on the dash. After this was done the only way to close the convertible was manual. This happened more than 10 times during my tries. Now, durametric doesn't do anything at all, I just get the 'working' icon and nothing happens.
I follow the workshop manual and I changed the following with no changes on behavior:
Still nothing. To add on this, when it stops I hear a 'click-click' sound from the back. The sound is from the module itself, but as I said, I replaced the module and nothing changed.
The clam shell opens and closes/locks fine. I don't get a warning light when I'm closing the convertible. I'm getting a warning light only when it stuck. All windows are going up and down.
The hydraulic oil is always full.
Any ideas or suggestions are strongly appreciated.
This article describes with photos how to replace a wheel bearing using the SIR Tools B90-P2 tool. There are no other "step by step" articles on any forums, so this article complements the others you find on the Internet to show how exactly to do it with this particular tool.
Step 1. Remove the wheel carrier from the car. This photo shows where this article starts, it is specific to removing the bearing, not removing the wheel carrier.
Remove the wheel hub from the carrier, these three photos show how to put the tool in place. Basically, you draw the wheel hub out of the inner bearing race, it comes out easily.
Remove the bearing from the wheel carrier. Heat the aluminum wheel carrier to 100 degrees Celsius, do it evenly, it takes about 3 minutes, measure the temperature with an infrared thermometer. Note, there are other articles on the Internet which use the wrong standard for temperature (they incorrectly say Fahrenheit, it should be Celsius as per the Porsche Workshop Manual). Your basically drawing the bearing out, into the large cylinder. You can use the wheel hub as a support and conveniently turn the bolts with your 24mm and 27mm spanners.
Insert the new bearing into the wheel carrier. Prior to doing this, clean the bore of the wheel carrier with polishing cloth (your just cleaning it, not removing any aluminum). Put the new bearing in your kitchen freezer overnight prior to inserting it. This is an alternate approach to Porsche Workshop Manual which has you heat up the wheel carrier to 100 degrees Celsius. The freezer method is easier on your hands since you don't have to touch hot metal (if you do use the heating method instead of the cooling method, wear work gloves as usual). The tools in this step apply force on the outer part of the bearing and the aluminum casting. The photo shows the bearing half way in.
Insert the wheel hub into the bearing. Remember to put the splash shield in place prior to actually installing the wheel hub into the bearing. Notice how the tools thrust bearing which is silver in the second photo below is used with the smaller circular die. Basically you draw the hub into the bearing with force being applied between the inner race of the bearing and the cast iron wheel hub.
Re-install the newly restored wheel carrier into the car (this is not covered by this article since there are many others on the internet).
Enjoy your car - Mark Nickson, Member of SAE, PCA, and MBCA for over 30 years.
By Steve Mongrain
Aircraft engine Tech, currently replacing the clutch on my AutoX 1999 996 C2, first time tackling a clutch/IMS job.
While the clutch & Pressure plate are worn out, I inspected the flywheel, based on Porsche's TSB 911 8/02 1360, & found it to be a bit worn, but serviceable. Common knowledge suggest to replace the flywheel every second clutch change or every 100K miles.
Considering the high price of the flywheel, is it Worth it to replace it right now or I can expect it to last until the next clutch change?