Jump to content
×

Server Lease Renewal/Software Licenses
Our yearly server lease, software licenses, as well as hardware operating costs were due Dec 6th, 2017. Our current donations have fallen short of the funds we need to renew. Please consider a donation to help keep this site running...  THANK YOU

DONATE HERE

×

 

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must login to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Sign in to follow this  
touareg

2009 Cayenne V8 Electrical problems from broken wires

Recommended Posts

Long story short, one day noticed water in the drivers footwell, found a leak on the door to body wire harness. Dried car out. Car was 100% before this, seemed to be OK even when wet.

 

2 Weeks later, car started getting random faults on the MFI (Brake, ABS, PSM, etc). Would clear, then come, then clear. Battery is about 7 months old (replaced when I first got these errors) Ton of errors in durametric, then one day would not start or move out of if it did start.

 

Peeled carpet back. Found 3 wires. 1 Crimped, 2 soldered. 1 of the soldered was gone, so cut that out, butt soldered and then repeated for the other 2 as I heard they usually go bad.

 

Cleared all the DTCs with durametric, car started fine, all looked good in happyville.

 

2 weeks later got a check engine light, read codes, p0119, p0117 and p1552 (from memory, may be wrong). Seemed to be the engine temp sensor. Thought maybe a fluke, reset and ignored. This has been on and off last few months.

 

I also noticed when hooking the durametric, or other code readers, it seemed to create a draw on the system, and the engine would idle rough, or the e throttle would not respond if I tried to drive with it plugged in. Pulled the durametric and all was fine, same with a bluetooth ODBII module I have.  I replaced relay 433 under the driver's seat, and this seemed to cure that problem, since it provides relayed power to the CANBUS.

 

About 3 months later got a PSM failure, at 45MPH and car went into limp mode. Restarted car, error was gone. Seemed fine for another month, got the same PSM failure yesterday, car seemed to be lurching a bit in slow moving traffic when it came up.

 

Could the bad temp sensor be triggering this? It has slowly gotten worse I assume as once in awhile I see my gauge stops working. Or did I miss something else with my wire repairs.

 

I am at the point ready to rip out passenger wiring under the carpet and inspect, but I suppose I should just replaced the impossible to reach temp sensor first, as it really does seem bad at this point.  I also notice all the fuse block fuses for the PSM are on the right hand side, makes me wonder if the wiring issue is there.

 

Just seems weird I have all these problems at once.

 

Edited by touareg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

I'm troubleshooting mine as we write. Occasionally, I'll depress the brake pedal and try to start the car and it won't. I've learned that when that happens, if I pump the brake 3 times (2 won't work), the car will start. Then the Brake Proportioner /ABS warning comes on and the car is stuck in park. Then, after a few minutes or less, I hear a click and I can shift and drive normally, but with the engine light still on. I've pulled up the driver's side carpet and it's not wet and none of the many wires seem to be corroded. Lately, I've noticed that if the car starts and won't shift, a good stomp or two on the floor with my left foot will cause the problem to stop. That leads me to believe it IS a wiring problem, but what should I look for?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, solo25 said:

I'm troubleshooting mine as we write. Occasionally, I'll depress the brake pedal and try to start the car and it won't. I've learned that when that happens, if I pump the brake 3 times (2 won't work), the car will start. Then the Brake Proportioner /ABS warning comes on and the car is stuck in park. Then, after a few minutes or less, I hear a click and I can shift and drive normally, but with the engine light still on. I've pulled up the driver's side carpet and it's not wet and none of the many wires seem to be corroded. Lately, I've noticed that if the car starts and won't shift, a good stomp or two on the floor with my left foot will cause the problem to stop. That leads me to believe it IS a wiring problem, but what should I look for?

In the bundle the black cables that are factory crimped together are they looking good?  Why not run some solder over them and then shrink wrap them.

If not redo all the soldered and crimped/connected cables, tedious work but you'll have to eliminate this first and its cheap. 

 

Brake Switch is on the pedal for 2004-2005 but in 2006 onwards its built into the master cylinder. I have a new oem brake Switch if you want one? I found out the hard way lol mines not on the brake pedal. 

 

Edited by lewisweller

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, you sound like you've been having some of the same problems as me. Here's one for you. Sometimes, the car starts right up. Then other times, I'll depress the brake pedal, turn the key....and nothing. Then, if I pump the brake pedal three times (not two, it has to be three), it will start, but stay stuck in park for a few minutes with all the dash lights and warnings flashing.. Then, it will release and I can drive it. I've found lately that if I reach down and wiggle the bundle of wires, it will unstick out of park, so that leads me to believe that the wires are the problem, but I don't see and corrosion or crimped wires. You wouldn't have a photo, would you? If not, where exactly should I look" Near the seat or toward the footwell? It's encouraging to talk to somebody who seems to know what I'm going through. As for the brake switch, I thought of that and might be interested if I can find out that's the problem. Is it a DIY project?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Toureg, thanks. I seem to have repeated myself here. It's a 2009 Cayenne GTS, so if what i read is true, the brake switch is part of the master cylinder. I still wonder why fooling with the wires under the carpet seems to solve the problem. tomorrow I'll take lewisweller's advice and look for the black wires, but I have looked at the bunch in general before, and don't see any solder or crimping. I must be looking in the wrong place. Can anyone provide a photo or diagram, or a more exact description as to where the wire are that I need to look a? I can see those that run from under the driver's seat toward the firewall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your looking in the wrong place, for me it was easy to find, as the black wrapping had green stains from copper oxidizing, plus pushing it while the car was running caused errors on the dash.  You litterally have to unwrap the wiring harness, just above the flat plastic black channel as the wires head towards the dead pedal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have purchased a new code scanner, durametric is a piece of crap for cayennes that I have had. I was able to pull a code today, for the PSM, 1314 not being able to talk to the DME, it was logged when I lost power today at highway speeds. Restart or the engine (did not even have to shut the car off all the way) fixed the issue per usual.

 

No codes anywhere else. So my PSM is either flaking, or the canbus wire is bad for it.

 

Where is the PSM module located?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is under the DME, and talks to the DME on a can drive bus.

 

I wonder if I have moisture or other gunk in there and that is what is causing this issue... Going to pull and clean all connections this weekend on the DME and PSM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hello Touareg
I'm coming to you because I have the same problem on my Cayenne GTS 2008 porsche.
I have engine crashes in degraded mode with the PSM LED on. 
When I query the DME ecu I have the error codes P1552, P0117, P0119 and in the PSM I have the error 1314 (DME fault communication).
I checked the DME relay and the ground of ecu but nothing. 
After a long search I changed the DME ecu but the problem comes back. 
I checked the beams but I did not see anything. Have you solved your problem? 
Thank you in advance and sorry for my bad English.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By OscarAH1W
      Odd one for the group here:
       
      I have a 2004 Turbo Cab (manual) with X50 that I have owned since early 2010 and put around 30K miles on in that time (Bought with ~20k miles).  I recently found a 2004 Turbo Cab (Tiptronic) with ~29,000 miles that was such a good deal that my parents purchased it.  I drove the thing recently while visiting and a couple times in constant-radius turns on back roads, the PSM intervened out of nowhere (The first time it happened I actually thought I hit a shift button with my thumb and downshifted mid corner).  Anyway, I got it to intervene once more in a pretty benign turn.  There certainly wasn't 7 degrees of slip angle and I have to push my own car much harder (read: screw up the corner entry) to get PSM to intervene.  I guess my question(s) is/are this:  Is there a difference in the PSM software between the Tiptronic cars and Manual?,  a malfunction in the Tip?
       
      Very interested to hear the responses.  Thanks
       
       
    • By ManMN
      I was troubleshooting code P2189, undo some vacuum line to test for leaks ... this is a different issue all together.  I mentioned it because I unhooked vacuum lines.  I reconnected everything (hoses), I did not start the engine because I was still working on it.  My engine was running fine for weeks even with P2189 - not rough like some mentioned!
      Two days later, In the morning, I used the car to do errands, I drove for about 10 minutes.  At the stop sign, I stepped on the brake, the car won't stop like it used to! It rolled slowly and then stopped.  It's like taking a much much longer distant to stop.  I did not see anything abnormal on the dashboard except for the CE for the P2189 code! no smell of anything.  I continued to drive the car at the normal speed (35 mile/hr) but kept a large distance from the car in front.  About 10 minutes later, the brake felt normal like nothing had happened.  I drove for another 10 minutes to reach my destination.   2 hours later, jumped in the car to drive home, the brakes felt normal.  About 2 minutes the PSM light came on,  brakes are still OK.  5 minutes later I pulled into the bank, turned off the engine for couple minutes then restarted the engine, the PSM light is OFF, the brake is normal... I drove home.
       
      Now, where do I start troubleshoot the brakes and the PSM light? I don't have the Durametric tool.  Or must I have the Durametric to troubleshoot? can I rent one from someone?
       
      Your help is needed. 
       
      Thank you in advance for your assistance.
       
      Man N
       
    • By Porscheguru
      Hello.Four weel dr system faulty.We ve changed the servo motor but nothingDoes anybody knows the relay location of this motor?
    • By AlexUK
      Hi all,
       
      My 2004 Cayenne 9PA 3.2 has suddenly developed a fault. It started by saying "four wheel drive error" on the dashboard and shortly after "ABS failure" followed by "PSM" failure. The centre console four wheel drive system switch (behind the gear change) is also not working (LED light not going on if the dial is moved).
      I changed the battery with a brand new one, top of the range and went to my local friendly Porsche mechanic who run it through diagnostics, cleared codes and they popped up back again which he then attributed to an electrical fault in one of the cables. As he is a mechanic and does not cover electrics he suggested I find a specialist that covers electrics.
      I checked all the fuses and they look ok.
      The car drives ok but when started it seems like it is trying to lock the wheels (like when in the past the PSM would engage).
      Any help? I have a tester so would not mind checking continuity of ground points etc, but rather than taking the whole thing apart it would be great if any of you has a suggestion - which would be greatly appreciated.
      Thanks in advance,
      Alex
    • By FloridaMark
      Dear all:
       
      I have water on the passenger (right) side floor board of my 2001 996 base coupe. Here are the signs and symptoms, and hopefully relevant info: the water seems to drip from the AC vent. The car hasn't been out in the rain or through a car wash since I dried it out thoroughly. Drove it for about an hour yesterday with the AC on, and the passenger side is soaked. When parked, a healthy amount of condensate came out by the left rear wheel (that's the driver's side, opposite the side where the floorboard is wet), bit nowhere else.
       
      Based on the great info on this site, I checked all four drains under the front cowl. All four were unobstructed and dry as a bone, but there a couple of small leaves in two of them so I cleaned them out. My car has the little clear window over the VIN and the slotted drain grommets, so it looks like the TSB has been applied. I also removed the cover panel on inside of the passenger side rear wheel well. I couldn't positively ID a drain. The area was relatively clean - a little dusty, but no discernible mud, etc. Also very dry. I took out both rear speakers and felt around from the inside of the car all the way down to the bottom of the wheel wells. I suppose that tip only works on the cabriolet...it was clean and dry inside both and there was no drain line .
       
      I ran the car with cowl under the hood/bonnet off and the AC on. The AC lines get cold and water condenses on them (both under the bonnet and running along underneath the car on the passenger side), but it doesn't leak or drip excessively. While it was running, I looked underneath, and saw water dripping from the plastic skid panels under the center of the car up forward. It didn't do that yesterday. I can't imagine that pulling out a couple of dry leaves from the drains under the bonnet made a difference...could it have?
       
      I'm pretty sure that the issue is condensation from the AC system, since it's getting wet from no other source (and it's clear water, not coolant). It would help me to know: where is AC condensation water SUPPOSED to come out under the car when everything's working properly - front, rear, both? Is there a drain hose from the AC condenser that I can access somewhere up front other than as mentioned? I apologize if this is covered clearly somewhere else. I'm just kinda flummoxed...what am I missing?
       
      Thanks very much for any guidance (even a link to some obvious other posting I should have found already)!
       
       
×