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Anshu Bansal

Porsche Cayenne 2006 Base 3.4L Secondary Air Monitor not ready

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I have Porsche Cayenne 2006 Base and recently spent almost $2K on repair check engine light fix/coolant hose. I took it for SMOG and everything looks good except Secondary Air Monitor not ready. I have driven the vehicle for almost 100 miles and still not ready. Smog shop is saying that continue driving it but I am not convinced. I have tried various drive cycles but nothing is helping. Car runs great except SIA monitor not ready. I don't want to take it to the dealer again since I've spent enough money on diagnostic and other stuff. (I haven't purchased Duramatic  Software Yet). Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. 

 

I still have one month left for the Smog deadline. There is no Check engine light so just wondering if still I go ahead and replace new Secondary Air Monitor proactively. Looks like its cheap ($165) but labor is hard.

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I have exactly the same problem going on right now. Just last night the mechanic told me everything passes except that the secondary air injection is not ready. He says just have to go through some more cycles of cold starts. I know that it only operates on the cold start. So I am hoping it will regenerate. I cleared my codes with the tester that I have. Recently replaced the battery which solved some other problems and now it no longer blows The five amp fuse which was shutting off the secondary air injection and causing the engine light to come on with the related codes. Hopefully it will just be a few more days of cold starts and all will be fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Pls keep this thread live. Do you think it makes sense to take it to the dealership to get the drive cycle completed? Anyone has experience with that? My mechanic told me the same thing and said it is the problem with German cars. Really annoying. There are no codes its just the secondary air stuff.

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First of all, it is always useful to state the year and model of the car involved.  Getting a "not ready" for the secondary air injection system is a common issue with these cars, some taking a couple hundred miles of driving to reset by themselves.  Yes, dealers can force the issue if needed.

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Is it expensive for a dealer to reset this? My smog is coming up in next month so just wondering if this makes sense to get it reset by dealership or if there are any other shops who does that?

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34 minutes ago, Andy Smith said:

Is it expensive for a dealer to reset this? My smog is coming up in next month so just wondering if this makes sense to get it reset by dealership or if there are any other shops who does that?

 

They will bill you for diagnostic time, ask them what they charge.  The shop would have to have a factory PIWIS unit.

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The dealer here in Newport Beach says they can reset that particular "readiness" item and it would cost 1hr ($185).  Otherwise drive it and eventually it will get there.  The local mechanic/smog tester guy said it depends on the number of cold starts, which I take to mean it isn't mileage, but starts that will get it there.  You can always just pay the registration fee and avoid late charges but get a smog extension... but just get it tested right before you go in.  It might have gotten there by then.  But if you want to be sure, take it to the dealer and pay for 1 hr. I would think EVERY dealer would be at least a little cheaper than Newport Beach, CA.

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Thats great info. I did pay the registration fees but not sure how to get Smog extension. Can you please expand on that? I did go to Smog shop and now in BAR system it is showing "R" status which means that some monitor was not ready. I did call BAR and they said that they are aware of the problem and either I need to continue driving or take to the dealership. If dealership cant fix then I have to take the documentation to the referee and they can waive the smog. My local mechanic also told me that it would require many cold starts. Driving will not help and this is the problem with German cars. 

 

Did your car set the monitor yet? I've been parking my car outside now so that it freezes in night and hopefully this indicator is set.

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Haven't tried again yet.  I'll give it a few days and see. I mean at the department of motor vehicles they will usually give you more time for an issue like this... one that is only a matter of time before it is fixed.  You'd have to request the extension from them if it isn't resolved by the time yours is due.

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The process is not just cold starts, it is cold starts, complete warm up, drive at highway speeds, shut down and complete cool down; repeat.  These are known as "drive cycles" as mandated by the EPA.  On some models it can happen fairly quickly (50-100 miles), on others it runs longer (200-500 miles).

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There is more criteria that must be met before all the monitors will run. The gas tank must be a least 1/4 tank full and no more then 3/4 full for monitors to run.

 

You must also run a minimum of 2 drive cycles to run and set all monitors from a cold motor. Trying to run2 drive cycles on the same day will not work for the DIYers.    

Edited by binger
add more info

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Wow, thanks for the info!  Almost like I am supposed to have a regular job and drive it to work!!  Well, I don't think I have been fitting that pattern.  So I will give it a shot.  I have another question for you guys.  Well, two.

  1. Am I right to assume I can drive it, warm it up on the highway, stop somewhere and shut it down, start it up while still warm, drive home and shut it down, let it cool off?  That also being a drive cycle?
  2. I did try a couple cold starts before it warmed up and it blew the 5A fuse that runs the relays for the SAI and coolant pump.  This fuse was blowing all the time (turning on engine light) until I found my battery was weak and failed the test.  New battery, replaced the fuse, reset codes, no more engine light... until this attempt at starting (4 times) cold.  After warm-up I replaced the fuse, cleared it, no more engine light.  Any idea why that would blow that fuse (which only drives RELAYS)?  I figured it was just high current from low voltage from a low battery.  Maybe the case again?  Just wondered if you have any other theories.

 

Thanks again for the drive cycle info.  And the gas tank info!  Amazing.

2006 Cayenne Turbo

Just noticed... why is this in the Boxster forum?  Can it be moved?

 

Edited by neoplanet

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I did some major service on my Cayenne such as EVAP valve, Venturi Tubes, CrankCase Vale, Coolant Hose and AirFilter Plastic cover. Looks like plastic hose/covers just cracks after a while. This cost me lots of money and I don't drive this car much and after this SMOG failed because of Secondary Air stuff. My Smog is due next month though. I will wait end of this month else will take it to the dealer and give him more money and say keep all of my money and be happy. I hope that will fix this stupid issue. My local mechanic told me that SIA is the problem with German Cars.

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10 hours ago, neoplanet said:

Wow, thanks for the info!  Almost like I am supposed to have a regular job and drive it to work!!  Well, I don't think I have been fitting that pattern.  So I will give it a shot.  I have another question for you guys.  Well, two.

  1. Am I right to assume I can drive it, warm it up on the highway, stop somewhere and shut it down, start it up while still warm, drive home and shut it down, let it cool off?  That also being a drive cycle?
  2. I did try a couple cold starts before it warmed up and it blew the 5A fuse that runs the relays for the SAI and coolant pump.  This fuse was blowing all the time (turning on engine light) until I found my battery was weak and failed the test.  New battery, replaced the fuse, reset codes, no more engine light... until this attempt at starting (4 times) cold.  After warm-up I replaced the fuse, cleared it, no more engine light.  Any idea why that would blow that fuse (which only drives RELAYS)?  I figured it was just high current from low voltage from a low battery.  Maybe the case again?  Just wondered if you have any other theories.

 

Thanks again for the drive cycle info.  And the gas tank info!  Amazing.

2006 Cayenne Turbo

Just noticed... why is this in the Boxster forum?  Can it be moved?

 

 

A drive cycle is cold start, fully warmed up, drive at highway speeds, shut down, and sit until cold.  Any variation in that chain and it is not a full cycle.

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Neoplanet, Anshu,

 

JFP is 100% correct. I have attached drive cycle documentation so you can wrap your head around it better. The key to remember, that all criteria must be met before all the monitors will run. IE: The gas tank must be a least 1/4 tank full and no more then 3/4 full. Also do not exceed 3,000 RPM or 60 MPH during any portion of the drive cycle!   Once you have completed the first drive cycle the vehicle must cool down until its stone cold before you can start the second drive cycle. 

 

As for your fuse issue I would check the switch side of the relay for short to ground. IE: Pitched wire, Chafed wire, loose wire. Check the relay too! I would also check to see how many amps the SAI is pulling and see if its within specs. Hope this helps.   

 

 

IMG_9738.JPG

IMG_9736.JPG

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The SAI pumps themselves are prone to impellor damage and sooting up with dirty exhaust Gases that can leak past the check valve. 

 

Could be worth getting a t40 screwdriver and whipping off the SAI and opening them up to check inside and give them a good clean. There is a foam filter also which could be clogged too. Easy diy job will take you an hour remove clean and refit both. 

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I've checked the SAIs.  The filters and impellers are fine.  Yeah, it is quite easy to check.  Just that center screw.

 

And OH!  I see.  It's not an accidental drive cycle, like a natural thing you would do.  It is an intentional drive cycle to cause the thing to do its thing!  Makes sense now.  Thanks a lot for this info!

 

I also have checked the relays, swapped them all out with no change, but that was before the battery was checked and found to fail the test.  New battery kept the engine light off for like a week until I tried several cold starts.  Then it came on and sure enough, the fuse was blown.  What I'm finding is that I also have a vacuum leak so the brake booster vacuum pump is running (It's relay is also on this 5A circuit).  So, I think just everything (SAI, vacuum pump, electric coolant pump) coming on at the same time when it is cold is just spiking the draw through that one fuse (plus the low-er battery voltage on cold start due to sitting (there is no other drain, checked that for an hour at shop) and cold oil I suppose).

 

 I checked the current TO the relays and found it to draw 0.15A when the vacuum pump goes on.  To be expected.  All the relays draw about that much.  So I can't imagine how these 3 perfectly good relays are spiking it to over 5A even when all go on at once.  But the indication is that this is so.  Maybe the inductive load or something, I don't know.  I'm going to fix the vacuum leak and get that pump to stop going on and see if that solves the problem.  I saw somewhere else someone saw a spike up to 6A on this circuit.  I have put a 10A fuse in there for now but I am not sure what could be damaged if it goes above 5A and why only a 5A fuse.  A "slow-blow" would be nice but I don't think they make those for cars.

 

Thanks everyone for all your input.  I'll carefully do that drive cycle 2x and report back if I get through the smog check.

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1 hour ago, neoplanet said:

I've checked the SAIs.  The filters and impellers are fine.  Yeah, it is quite easy to check.  Just that center screw.

 

And OH!  I see.  It's not an accidental drive cycle, like a natural thing you would do.  It is an intentional drive cycle to cause the thing to do its thing!  Makes sense now.  Thanks a lot for this info!

 

I also have checked the relays, swapped them all out with no change, but that was before the battery was checked and found to fail the test.  New battery kept the engine light off for like a week until I tried several cold starts.  Then it came on and sure enough, the fuse was blown.  What I'm finding is that I also have a vacuum leak so the brake booster vacuum pump is running (It's relay is also on this 5A circuit).  So, I think just everything (SAI, vacuum pump, electric coolant pump) coming on at the same time when it is cold is just spiking the draw through that one fuse (plus the low-er battery voltage on cold start due to sitting (there is no other drain, checked that for an hour at shop) and cold oil I suppose).

 

 I checked the current TO the relays and found it to draw 0.15A when the vacuum pump goes on.  To be expected.  All the relays draw about that much.  So I can't imagine how these 3 perfectly good relays are spiking it to over 5A even when all go on at once.  But the indication is that this is so.  Maybe the inductive load or something, I don't know.  I'm going to fix the vacuum leak and get that pump to stop going on and see if that solves the problem.  I saw somewhere else someone saw a spike up to 6A on this circuit.  I have put a 10A fuse in there for now but I am not sure what could be damaged if it goes above 5A and why only a 5A fuse.  A "slow-blow" would be nice but I don't think they make those for cars.

 

Thanks everyone for all your input.  I'll carefully do that drive cycle 2x and report back if I get through the smog check.

 

I would not use a 10A fuse on that circuit! The engineers designed it with 5A fuse. You have an intermittent B+ short to ground that needs to be traced and fixed ASAP. Now that you have over fused the circuit the next time the short happens you will fry the loom! 

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Looks like my SIA monitor is set. I didn't follow the cycle mentioned above since thats hard to do on public roads. I just drove around almost 100 miles in traffic/highways which includes various variable speed, multiple start (since I stopped for errands) and warm start. I just checked and my OBD-2 device is telling that it is set now. Thankfully :). Thanks a lot to everyone who helped. Overall, this year, I spent around ~$1500 on various plastic useless hoses for this car which tends to crack after a while. Now hoping for 2 additional years will be fine until next smog is due.

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:drive1: Just drive normally and don't clear the code. Thats my suggestion. I know its stressful since this car is expensive if it ends up in dealer's hand. I was so frustrated and tired that I booked my Tesla Model-3. Hopefully, in 2 years, I will get once next smog is due. Good luck to you. Its super frustrating.  

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