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Bahrain

Speedometer and all gauge fail

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HI All

 

I'm proud to join here with pleasure

 

if possible anyone can help please

 

while I was driving all gauges stopped working and frozen even if I get the key out, removed - terminal for more than 30 minutes still the same

called Porsche dealer and told me that we never faced this issue before lol maybe I'm the only one on this planet

as you can see in the picture while driving , high bean light indicator came on , cruise control light indicator came on , Speedo frozen , rev frozen , oil and fuel frozen and lights on ?

 

all gear lights is on ?

 

anyone ideas please

 

Thank you

 

Rez

 

20180205_065713 (1280x960).jpg

20180205_043354 (1280x960).jpg

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I would start by replacing the electrical part of your ignition switch.  Known to cause all types of electrical gremlins.

Edited by DBJoe996

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Try this. Remove fuse B1 for a few seconds and reinstall.

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In addition to the above, I recall somebody once experiencing instrument cluster problems on a 996 which were ultimately traced to frayed wiring on the fuel level sender unit.

 

I see that your fuel gauge is showing reserve tank. Is that due to a need to refuel or a faulty reading?

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3 hours ago, DBJoe996 said:

I would start by replacing the electrical part of your ignition switch.  Known to cause all types of electrical gremlins.

I will search for the parts thanks for your help

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1 hour ago, Ahsai said:

Try this. Remove fuse B1 for a few seconds and reinstall.

I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes still the same

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1 hour ago, wizard said:

In addition to the above, I recall somebody once experiencing instrument cluster problems on a 996 which were ultimately traced to frayed wiring on the fuel level sender unit.

 

I see that your fuel gauge is showing reserve tank. Is that due to a need to refuel or a faulty reading?

the fuel light and engine temperature light came on all at the same time

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3 minutes ago, Bahrain said:

I disconnected the battery for 30 minutes still the same

 

You mean the gauges stay frozen even after you disconnect and reconnect the battery? Or the gauge needles will go back to 0's once battery is disconnected and they will move back to the positions in the photo once the battery is reconnected?

 

Without power, I would think the needles should all go back to "0"...

Edited by Ahsai

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1 minute ago, Ahsai said:

 

You mean the gauges stay frozen even after you disconnect and reconnect the battery? Or the gauge needles will go back to 0's once battery is disconnected and they will move back to the positions in the photo once the battery is reconnected?

 

Without power, I would think the needles should all go back to "0"...

The needles all are frozen even when I disconnected the battery

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3 minutes ago, Ahsai said:

 

You mean the gauges stay frozen even after you disconnect and reconnect the battery? Or the gauge needles will go back to 0's once battery is disconnected and they will move back to the positions in the photo once the battery is reconnected?

 

Without power, I would think the needles should all go back to "0"...

Look at the first picture , the key is out and everything is frozen

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22 minutes ago, Bahrain said:

Look at the first picture , the key is out and everything is frozen

I noticed that but the instrument cluster is also powered by unswitched power (fuse B1) from the battery so I had to ask...

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Have you checked if fuses B1 and B10 are blown?

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2 hours ago, Ahsai said:

Have you checked if fuses B1 and B10 are blown?

both fuses are ok

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Do you have a Durametric cable ... or a friend with one? Any fault codes stored should assist in at least narrowing down where the problem has arisen.

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8 hours ago, wizard said:

Do you have a Durametric cable ... or a friend with one? Any fault codes stored should assist in at least narrowing down where the problem has arisen.

Thanks for your reply

 

yes I do have Durametric cable and software, The is modified by Protomotive and I have tuned it more to 1300 Horsepower , while I accelerate everything went dead

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This is truly a mystery.  Even disconnecting the battery the gauges do not return to 0.  This suggests to me that the circuit board behind the cluster, and the connectors, need to be checked.  One simple question is...does the car start and run?  The reason for the question is that all of the inputs to the instrument cluster come from all over the car from various sensors, but the common point is the DME/ECU.  That is what gets all of the sensor readings and sends them to the instrument cluster.  And since you have a "tune", perhaps the DME/ECU needs to be reflashed or refreshed.  Just some thoughts....

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5 hours ago, DBJoe996 said:

This is truly a mystery.  Even disconnecting the battery the gauges do not return to 0.  This suggests to me that the circuit board behind the cluster, and the connectors, need to be checked.  One simple question is...does the car start and run?  The reason for the question is that all of the inputs to the instrument cluster come from all over the car from various sensors, but the common point is the DME/ECU.  That is what gets all of the sensor readings and sends them to the instrument cluster.  And since you have a "tune", perhaps the DME/ECU needs to be reflashed or refreshed.  Just some thoughts....

I cleared the faults only 3 remaining , the gearbox fault is normal due to upgraded by MKB, Germany

 

The last picture is the main fault

 

test 1.PNG

test 2.PNG

test 3.PNG

test 6.PNG

test 7.PNG

test 9.PNG

Edited by Bahrain

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49 minutes ago, Bahrain said:

I cleared the faults only 3 remaining , the gearbox fault is normal due to upgraded by MKB, Germany

 

The last picture is the main fault

 

test 1.PNG

test 2.PNG

test 3.PNG

test 6.PNG

test 7.PNG

test 9.PNG

 

test 7.PNG

test 9.PNG

test 6.PNG

test 3.PNG

test 1.PNG

test 2.PNG

Edited by Bahrain

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When I unlocked the car and opened the door , the digital km and the digital outside temperature came on but once I inserted the key turned it to position 1 the display gone ?

 

I think there is a ghost inside the car lol

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As DBJoe996 originally suggested, I would get on down to Behbehanis for the electrical component to the ignition switch.

 

Replacing that would be the least expensive and easiest first step ... and may even solve the problem.

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when I called the work

2 hours ago, wizard said:

As DBJoe996 originally suggested, I would get on down to Behbehanis for the electrical component to the ignition switch.

 

Replacing that would be the least expensive and easiest first step ... and may even solve the problem.

I called work shop manager and he told me that we never faced this issue before and waiting from Porsche reply

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