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Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

I just used a pvc pipe fitting that I got from Home Depot. Note the depth that the current RMS is pressed in and match it by tapping the new seal in, making sure to get it in as straight as possible.

Obviously the actual tool would be better if you can get it..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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That tool is up there with hen's teeth.  Only Porsche ever made them and a new one will set you back north of $600, but it is a work of art and an absolute pleasure to use.  Just be sure to find one with the correct adaptor if you are using the PTFE design seal as it sets to a different installed depth than the Viton seals.

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There's a guy over on Rennlist that makes them with a 3D printer. Do a search there - His name is Chris. If you can't get in touch with him. I've got one of his tools that I'll rent to you

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  • 3 weeks later...

I performed my RMS by constructing a tool out of PVC. I used a 3" slip coupling (no stop in the inside diameter) and 3" sch 40 pipe. the pipe acts as a stop against the crack shaft flange and the coupling edge presses the seal in. If I remember correctly the seal is set into the block by 13mm. I glued the 3" pipe into the coupling at the proper depth to allow the coupling to extend the proper depth past the edge of the block. I then cut the assembly to a total length that allowed the flywheel bolts to be used to press in the seal. Carefully slide the seal over the crankshaft until the seal touches the block all the way around. place your tool over the crankshaft, start two flywheel bolts across from one another, and slowly/evenly tighten the bolts until the pipe contacts the crankshaft flange. This insures a square installation at the proper depth. I also used the recommended sealant on the outer part of the seal before installation.

 

I hope this helps because I destroyed a seal by trying to just tap it in.

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