Jump to content
×
×

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Sign in to follow this  
OscarAH1W

Front Strut Dust Boot Replacement

Recommended Posts

Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn.  Has anyone replaced one of these?  I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot.  Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top?  ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Hi Oscar.....  I've not done this (yet) myself on my 6GT3, but, if you do disconnect the top of the strut, you will have to realign the front end.  (to state the obvious).

It would be a good opportunity to check the alignment all around to, since our cars are so sensitive to alignment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Craig,

 

Here is what I got back from Jae:

 

So, when you remove the top mount from the car, take 2 of the 3 nuts off.  make a line thru the bolt and the top mount so you can put it back to where it was.....  should be ok if you put it back to where it is...... 

 

I pulled off the dust cover to look but it the bolt is recessed so I am not sure where he is talking about making the line, LOL..  I'll get clarification.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By OscarAH1W
      Transitioning from previous thread to new one--  Replaced the water pump and performed the 60,000 mile service in my 04 Turbo Cab.  Car runs great except now I am getting overboost to 1.0-1.3 bar.  I don't hold it there to be sure.  That said, I realize it is likely a vacuum issue but the only lines I touched during the repair are the one from the Y-Pipe to the switch and the one from the switch to the plastic line that goes to the driver side of the engine.  Flashlight and inspection mirror show the 3rd line on the underside of the switch to be connected.  Any thoughts on where else to look?
       
      Thanks
       
      Owen
    • By thebopper
      2003 996 seat height adjustment not working. Back seat adjustment works and forward backward manual adjustments work fine. Anyone experienced this and what might be the cause?
    • By simssj
      Car: 2003 996 Cab.
       
      Symptom: The fuse for the front power windows and the fuse for the rear windows will blow instantly when a new fuse is inserted.
       
      History: The car was in winter storage and, though disconnected, the battery went 100% flat. I reconnected the battery and used a jump-start box and she fired right up after letting the battery pick up a little charge. But the windows rolled themselves all the way down and then (I guessing here) the fuses blew. When I replace a fuse, it blows even before I can get it all the way seated.
      Also, when I got the car home I removed the battery and put it on a slow charge, so the car was essentially without power for 2 days.
      I've scanned the car with a Foxwell NT-510 and there are no faults in any system.
       
      I don't have any idea where to start troubleshooting this. I don't know where to find a wiring diagram to begin knowing where to look. I'm handy with tools and comfortable with electricity, but this has me stumped.
       
      Any thoughts on where to begin?
    • By Loren
      I bought the Porsche factory manuals (all 17 volumes in 3-ring binders) in 2000 for about $600. I then spend about $100/year each for the next 6 years to get updates. My factory manuals ended up about costing $1200. Porsche stopped printing manuals a few years ago and the set was well over $1200 at that time.
      That does not really cover everything - you also need the OBD II manuals for DME 5.2.2. DME 7.2, and DME 7.8 depending on your model year. When I bought my OBD II manuals (again in 2000) they were about $200 each. So to cover all models it cost me about $600. Porsche also stopped printing these manuals a few years ago and at the time each was over $800.
      So all totaled I likely spent over $2000 for the factory service and OBD II manuals for the 996.
       
      For $138 (on Amazon) you get the Bentley Porsche 911 Carrera Service Manual (996) hardbound manual with photos that the factory manuals don't have - and from I can see so far 99% of the information that is in the factory manuals. BOTH service manuals and OBD II manuals.
      The manual layout is excellent logically each section from General Information and Maintenance to Wiring Diagrams and OBD II. Roughly 11 sections with great detail and photos the factory manuals never had. 1024 pages (and over 7.6 pounds) the manual is well composed and covers even some of the more tricky tasks. The photos are certainly worth a thousand words many times over.
      Clear, concise, detailed and from what I can see complete - this IS the service manual to have if you own or work on the 996 series cars. I highly recommend it.
       
      Updates and Videos can be found here
      Here are a few photos I took of the book..



    • By mikesz
      I recently did a suspension overhaul when I replaced my inner CV joints out of necessity.  Problem I am having is they cannot align it properly. Because of the lowered suspension and change in geometry the rear toe in is more than it should be. I have ordered a pair of rear control arms from TRS to allow for adjusting toe, hopefully. So now I am looking to replace the Meghan racing tie rods with something that will allow for greater adjustment for proper alignment of the front end. Does anyone have an experience/insight into this type of setup for the street? Can anyone recommend outer tie rods? Will stock factory ones work?
       
       
       
      List of what was replaced:
      All wheel bearings with *** units repacked with Hi Temp synthetic grease
      All 4 struts/shocks with Bilstein B8's along with upper bearings/caps, bump stops, dust boots
      All 4 springs with H&R 29779 Lowering springs (Blue)
      All 4 lower coffin bars/ball joints with Meyle units
      2 rear track arms with units from Vertex auto.
      2 rear control arm/ball joint Meyle units.
      2 front track arms not sure if Meyle or vertex auto.
      2 Inner tie rods
      2 outer tie rods with Meghan racing units, adjustable blue color
      4 Drop links with Tarrett adjustable units
      Eibach 26mm front swaybar along with bushings
      factory 19.6 rear swaybar along with bushings
×

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.